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meanders

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    72
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About meanders

  • Rank
    Expert Infantryman

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Adelaide

FISD Info

  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Andrew
  • 501st ID
    3482
  • 501st Unit
    Southern Dewback

Recent Profile Visitors

111 profile views
  1. Found some photos of the shin strap. The metal loop on the end if just some coat hanger wire. Credit to TK1491 for that tip.
  2. l. I used the Waproo spray I picked up from Mr Minit. I got by with one can and a number of light coats. Masking tape on the soles of course. It does not whiten the elastics as much as I'd like, but these are mostly covered by the shin pieces anyway. This has worn very well. The only place where it has worn is the back of the ankle where the shin rubs on the boot. m. I'll see if I can get some photos. Another centimetre height on the boot might have meant I didn't need it. But it won't affect the armour build. Its just something you can add later if needed. n. Yes I can; in this order - Thighs held in place with a leather belt. - Boots - Shins - All the body armor in one piece. Before I put it on, the left shoulder strap is snapped and the left side is snapped together. I slip the 'clam shell' on, snap the right shoulder strap, crotch strap and right side. (at this point I can no long bend over to pick things up on the floor, so make sure everything else is in reach. A table or bench is good! ) - Shoulder bells and biceps go on in one piece. I have a strap from the shoulder straps with a snap to attach the bells. - Gloves - Forearms. I have a velcro strip from the base of the bicep, along the inside of the elbow, which slides under the forearm to hold it in position. - Hand plates. n2. Bugger all return in most places. I still have some where the outer strips are, so it might not be quite to Centurion level, but it would be very close.
  3. f. The intention of the "stopper" was to avoid the shins closing in more than needed rather than keep them from opening. But I don't think that's needed now. Once I'd put the strapped shins in the bucket of hot water they've stayed pretty much in a natural closed state ever since. One other mod, for which I don't have a photo handy, was a strap on the inside of the left shin to stop it riding up over the heel of the boot. The left shin is smaller around the ankle compared to the right, so when I was walking the bottom back of the shin piece would ride up over the top of the boot and, armour being what it is, I could not bend over to fix it. It's basically a strap with one end attached to the loop on the back of the boot. The other end is has a snap which attaches halfway up the back of the shin which I attach when putting it on. So when I flex my left angle, at a certain point the strap reaches its limit and stops the shin riding up.
  4. a. The armour has been going great. Pretty comfortable to wear. It gets a few scuffs, but a wipe with methylated spirits and a paper towel cleans it up nicely. The bucket lives in a display cabinet when not in use and the rest of the kit stays packed away. So I haven't seen any yellowing. b. Nomex flight gloves and the ABS handplates. I made up an elastic harness to hold the handplates on. c. Not numbered, just dated 2012. d. Didn't end using a harness. Basically the top of the helmet rests on the top of my head. If it sat any higher it didn't look right compared to other movie reference photos. Then I used neoprene weather seal for some blocks around the side. You can buy, for example, 25mm wide x 10mm thick strips of self adhesive weather seal from Clarke Rubber. I used a double block at the front to get the bucket in the right spot (and after some trooping, some more to cover the bolts on the ears to stop cutting up my face when putting on the bucket ). I wear a skull cap so I don't sweat against the top of the helmet. e. Not really any plans to upgrade to centurion. I think most of the suit would be OK to upgrade, but I'd need to get the latex handplates and a new E-11 to replace the Hasbro/DoopyDoos kit. Happy to keep trooping Expert Infantry You can check out my photobucket album as well - http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Meanders/library/TK%20Build So are you looking to upgrade?
  5. Looking good. I think you'll find when you start to get the ears fitted the cheeks move a bit more. One trick I found helpful when fitting my ears was to fit the top bolt so that the thread is pointing outwards. That way you can easily put the ears on and off easily for test fits instead of pulling the whole helmet apart every time. And of course you've marked the left and right ears ready for fitting. Because it would be embarrassing if you started trimming and sanding the left ear and realised it was the right ear. Not that I did that *cough*
  6. This is looking good. Its not a real build until you've bled for it. Just don't get any on the canvas belt; that's a lot harder to clean off
  7. Glad to hear its helping someone else What kit are you building Adam?
  8. Well done. Its really impressive that you got all the cover strip issues sorted out. But you're glad that's done
  9. That's a nice solid looking holster you've got now
  10. Thanks Phil. Feels great to have accomplished this. Thanks to everyone else who commented on my build and offered their feedback. Its been great to have this group here for the support. Cheers Glen
  11. Thanks for the push. I had another look and decided it was recoverable. Fished out the wires (paperclips are a great invention!), soldered on a new wire across the break and we're back in action. We have light! Its a beautiful thing
  12. The T-track has been removed and holes added. (Sorry chookaboom - As careful as I was, I nicked the wire running to the end LED But the pew-pew sounds and the barrel internal light still work so its still play worthy ). First post updated with photo of blaster mod. Cheers.
  13. Thanks chookaboom. The plan is to go in slowly probably with a pilot hole first. During the initial build when cutting the end off I cut through the wires to the end LED and had to re-solder them. Cheers
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