Darth Hilarious

I find it quite funny how often non-native English speakers do have better grammar and spelling. I guess we native Anglophones just take things for granted and get lazy. Anyhow, cheers for the ID on the lid, Mathias. That's what I was looking for. I find it's nice to know what's what, even (maybe especially) when it comes to illegitimate stuff.

And people say grammar is dead on the internet.

I'd definitely recommend contacting AM, then. Or, if it's more urgent and immediate, possibly a WTB replacement part thread in the trading post (I believe WTB threads are acceptable for single parts, though I may be mistaken, perhaps check the rules just in case).

I've been looking at these dudes a lot lately, and though I have no immediate plans to build one, I've been putting some research into them. First, here's some more hi-def screens for everyone. And here's one that's just a cool pic, but isn't the best for details. Some observations on the HWT backpack: The pack is comprised of 9 components, being: The main body, which (if my scaling is accurate) should be about 18" x 15" x 5". Attached to this, clockwise from the top left, are: A rectangular box at top left, with a round-ended panel, with four buttons A feature on the top face, slightly right of center, resembling a filled-in handle. Directly below it: *this one I find hard to identify from most angles it appears to be a cylinder (very close to an O2 can with a panel covering the entire outward-facing side. however, it looks slanted and weird when seen from the left, could be an animation fault* help anyone? top middle A cuboid box at top right, with vents on the top face bordered by an inverted U-shaped frame A long tube, similar to that of a Sandtrooper backpack, 22-24" long, has a detail (similar to O2can) with 5 bumps on both front and back sides; the tube itself is attached to the main body on the outside/back edge (the edge further from the wearer) A trapezoidal box at middle right, with 3 (ridges? not sure if they go inward or outward) details on a plate attached to the front (slanted) face A cylinder with a white conical projection at the bottom right A box, bottom right, at this level of detail is it the same as a Sandie's radio or something else? I don't know my Sandie stuff... Radio box appears tobe about 6"x9" Given how box-ey the main body is, I would suggest a guitar case-style construction would be the easiest way to accurately replicate it. You could use much lighter ply (not having to protect a guitar) and it would be possible to make the whole thing a useable storage space. I am in the process of making a 3D mockup of this pack, to hopefully better illustrate these things, once I have done more scaling and nailed down the details better. Is anyone good at using sketchup?

This blaster is a thing of beauty. Really awesome work. Sorry to derail but ditto to that question.

Knowing what maker your kit is might help- AM does replacement parts (last I heard) and I believe ATA do as well. But either part won't match the other kit very well!

If he takes a while to get hold of, be patient. It took me a while to get my ESB stunt greeblie kit, but he came through with the goods.

That's almost what I was going to say word for word. Plagarism!

Slightly off-topic, but I think the stunt geeblie version might have been slung by at least a couple of TKs in the film. A picture that Paul recently shared: Check out the trooper in the middle's blaster (sitting in his helmet). It has no D-ring, and appears to have bumps in the right places to be a stunt greeblie. Also look at the closest TK- his blaster has no D-ring, and those totally look like concrete clips! Now to try and spot them in the film...

ZeroRooms templates are complete enough for you to scratch-build a working folding stock from, but you need to figure out your own locking system, I believe.

Do a Novatrooper! They're cooler than the plain black ones. Again, my $0.02. Even better, wait until he has more white in stock, because that will be from the new improved molds...

At 200lbs, AM or RT-mod might be a better fit. My $0.02

Jumpsuits are a great way in, but I'm pretty sure the CHEAPEST costume there is would be a Jawa (provided you have the talent to make it).

Well, if you'd known what a challenge the RotJ blasters were when you started... ...you'd miss all the fun of researching a truly challenging build!

All the concerns about AM accuracy levels might fade when his new molds come out... Just saying.

So long as you get just the right OD pipe (and don't ask me what OD that is) you can still use parts from the Doopy's kit (though the more you learn about MGCs, the more you may not want L2A3 parts on a RotJ E-11 )

I wouldn't buy it anyway. Getting a pre-made helmet takes all the fun out of building it!

You could maybe make a sudden switch to a pipe build? Then there's no grinding required...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAR-WARS-INCINERATOR-STORMTROOPER-HELMET-PROP-/180961227689?_trksid=p4340.m2108&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35%26meid%3D1668670555474858668%26pid%3D100047%26prg%3D1032%26rk%3D1%26 Actually looks pretty neat. Guy says he vacformed it himself...

Try PM-ing Quartermaster. This particular pack is much more of a Sandy-style. Have a look at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17829 this one he made. It's much better for a HWT (easily the most accurate HWT pack I've seen).

Would a real spring be useable? -----------

Coming along nicely!

Very interesting to note the positions of the three rank bars- outside two on the bumps, middle one between the bumps. I love that kind of attention to detail.

Depending if you want to go for an ex-military or commercial looking Sterling- many commercial MkIV's had crinkle finishes on the endcaps and various other parts. It's a very cool look. I would very much lean towards satin over matte- matte finishes tend to have a 'ruber prop' look about them. The grip should always be gloss, the real ones are plastic. For the scope, bronze may be a better undercoat colour than brass for your weathering effects... Also, if you look carefully at some pics of Sterlings, there is always some plain metal showing around the trigger group.

You could hide your S-hooks in compartments on the sides. Check this out: ----------- The squarish bit at the bottom end (on the side facing us). That looks like it could pop open, you could have your S-hhok fold out of there. Then there's no deviation from the onscreen ones. Best of both worlds.