dashrazor

i use gorilla superglue mixed with plumbers goop for flexy parts (like the shins) and plastix bonder 2 part epoxy for the rest. just like Luis i am too impatient to wait for e6000 to dry. while E6000 is used by most troopers it is not the only option. the only surefire way to see if that particular glue is good for armor is to glue 2 scrap parts together with a 1" (more or less) overlap and try ripping them apart.. if the plastic breaks before the glued bond it is OK if it comes unglued by brute force (without damaging the plastic) dont use it. just my personal opinion and rule of thumb

HO! HO! HO! merry Christmas boss --------

only ROTJ with extended stock is allowed for centurion (as seen in the game) ESB is only acceptable for base 501st and EI requirements

pinned! you rock Corey!!

perfect!!! and pinned great work!!

then no, there doesn't need to be a strap between the chest plate and back plate and yes, you should have straps from the back to kidney

looking good for the strapping are you going with a suspender style or clamshell?

i assumed it slipped down a little after taking the action shots, the gloves look fine in the rest of the pics

you might be able to adjust the sniper plate so the top end points out at an angle away from your leg. it also looks like you could lower the sniper plate a bit as well. i would try that before trimming your thighs. also a few close-up pics of your shin armor would help you'll want to make sure you have them assembled correctly before making any changes

the armor looks fantastic! could you add some detail pics of the blaster? i cant see the D-ring in the photos

i think it was vac-formed into a negative vac forming mold. not formed over a positive mold like current armor makers. AA commented on using both negative and positive molds at some point. "I made no sketches, no models, no engineering drawings… I sculpted the production moulds directly, using my own blends of resins, fillers and metal dusts… The production moulds were the sculptures... they were positives, negatives and reverse engineered."

i think RT is a better choice from the sound of it. but you should contact him with your arm size before ordering. the AM forearms are really not any larger than a screen derived kit.

wow! these are fantastic! i have been trying to do this for a while now.. i only managed to extract the models but couldn't figure out how to apply the skin files correctly Kudos

just an added note: one thing i did to improve the look of this style of glove was airbrush the entire glove with gloss black textile paint so the rubber and fabric colors are the same tone of black the fabric areas appear flat black and stand out too much if you don't do this. alternatively you could use acrylic gloss black craft paint and apply with a brush to the cloth sections here is a visual example of what i mean --------- you really just need to coat the top of the glove with a light coat to blend the cloth to the rubber. there's no need to paint the palms. and it works best if you are wearing the glove when painting (the fabric expands when you are wearing the gloves and allows the paint to get into the small crevasses) expect your hands to get a little black lol

i agree they are not fully accurate, but i use a similar style of glove as well. the fabric top allows your hands to breath and the size was better for my small hands. i have relatively small hands and the chemical gloves looked funny (over-sized) on me and i had issues picking things up lol it looked like i had greedo hands

i agree completely with this. but the means of attaching the holster are pretty clear... 4 rivets (where i assume a holster would attach) are on the game version and the sideshow version as well.. ANH hero style holster fasteners

yes

i do believe this is an error. the holster should be on the right as in ROTJ (since the armor is primarily ROTJ). and the holster was never seen in the game. i believe it was originally in the crl that way but must have been a copy/paste error. i think it was originally decided to allow the holster for trooping convenience and the ROTJ allowance. this is how it should read for the tkc. Holster Made of black leather or leather-like material. Holster shall be worn on the right affixed from behind with four rivets. Holster should be omitted from this costume. Holster shall be omitted. as you can see here there are already 4 rivets on each side of the belt (presumably to attach a holster) so if a holster is to be used i see it as the most logical way of affixing it.

topic moved and pinned this will be a good starting point for new members making one of the hardest decisions in costuming.. which one should i make?

:duim: great pic Steve!!!!

yes Vern, it obviously tapers in the front on both game and statue references. but one thing to take into consideration when painting is that neither the game or GG statue are accurately proportioned TK helmets. both are artists interpretations of a TK helmet, and the shape and scale is quite different from a "real" stormtrooper helmet. so it really boils down to painting the details as closely as you can to the reference you are using while taking some artistic license yourself to adapt the design to a real helmet.its really more important to capture the overall look of a TKC than to get all the angles and tapers 100% exact. i expect that i will never see 2 TKC helmets painted the exact same way.

looks nice Jose! and i love the simulated wire brackets great work trooper! Approved

all the game references show a taper in both the front and the back. the gentile giant has no taper (but it is really very different from the game in a lot of respects) personally, i think the game version looks much better than the GG interpretation

look here http://greatlakesskipper.com/product/791_793-boat-rub-rail-rub-rail-and-gunnel-molding/11770--bayliner-1733532-white-316-inch-boat-u-molding-ft.html dirt cheap and fast shipping. get 30' and youl have some extra in case you make a mistake

my local auto-body shop mixes both. spray-paint cans or regular cans for air guns