dashrazor

a country exception list is a great idea for EIB/centurion who have no way of getting any kind of blaster. if that that need ever arises i think it should be addressed. alternatively one could go EU and use a lightsaber i do not believe those are banned in any countries.

yes blasters are required for EIB - Centurion i have been working on some ideas for doopy-doo stock mods. but dont have one to work with for a tutorial... or you could get an Apex stock for 40$ https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/83/products_id/2080

ok, Sean i understand your point.. but bear in mind that if you follow the game story those costumes are actually disguises (just like ANH hero)

i have been experimenting with different methods of painting helmet details,, though i prefer using my airbrush, i know that a lot of people don't own one so i made up this tutorial on painting helmet details with common spray-paints and masking tape with minimal bleed one of the disadvantages of using spray paints over an airbrush is the bleed. an airbrush can apply super thin controlled coats and does not soak the areas you paint.. spray can paints tend to cause bleeding because they are applied too thick and the viscosity can not be altered like airbrush paints.. this method i discovered seems to help eliminate 99% of the bleeding.. by applying a clear primer before adding the paint it essentially seals most of the gaps in the masked off areas making it harder for the paint to "leak" under your masking tape (you will always get some bleed with any type of spray-paint) the trick is to eliminate as much as you can tips to eliminate paint bleed 1: always use good quality masking tape (do not use dollar store or no-name brands) 2: use a round edge tool to press down all the masked off edges (like the back side of a artist paintbrush) make sure it is plastic or wood so you don't scratch up your bucket 3: make sure you thoroughly cover areas that you don't want to paint... never skimp on the masking tape (more is better) 4: temperature is important!! try to paint on a cool day or night (heat makes most paint thinner and more likely to bleed) if it is a really hot sunny day find a shaded area to paint.. do not paint inside, you will get dizzy MATERIAL LIST 1: masking tape (i used normal 3M masking from wal-mart but automotive masking works best) 2: plastic grocery bags 2-3 3: exacto knife or razor blade 4: pencil (with eraser) 5: small paint brush 6: transparent plastic primer 7: black, gray and blue spray-paint 8: small artists easel or helmet stand (just something to hold the helmet up) here is the vids of painting an ATA helmet... Enjoy! photos of the finished helmet (i used a normal pencil eraser to easily remove the small bleeds that i got) also not the color in the photo looks darker than it actually is.. we have no sunlight in Maine lol

sorry for the delay wow! what a difference it makes having the shins fitted properly... and i am really happy you took this costume to the centurion level Approved! great work trooper!!! as for the comments above,, you could opt to raise the drop boxes a bit but they appear to be within acceptable levels, and the biceps/forearms are overlapped assembled (like rotj) currently overlapping is acceptable but adding cover strips would really add to the build IMO

i sent you a link via PM for the shin problem. it is hard to tell in the photos but they do appear to be incorrectly assembled. this tutorial explains in detail how to get them right and they will also be more comfortable ---------

all search tags are back up and running thanks to ZeroRoom !!

Steve is correct as he posted above.. the centurion requirements state "There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (e.g. CABoots are not allowed)." the sniper plate rivet is not recommended but will pass if present (as long as it is painted to blend in with the armor). and photos of the helmet paint details and mic tips are needed as well. overall the build looks great! you just need the additional helmet photos and to find a more accurate boot. TKboots or painted chelsea boots will work as noted above

finding the correct size (or close enough) isn't very tough.. it is finding hex bolts with the correct knurling pattern most common hex bolts have a vertical patter as here originals have a diamond (crosshatch) pattern similar to the photo below im sure they could be found, but i have looked a few times and came up with nothing

also if you can get larger zoomed images i may be able to enhance them in paintshop a bit

very nice Corey. these are the best game images to date! i know the detail is the best it can get, but these are great for shape reference and scale. i would love to see a closeup of the little control panel on top of the fuel canister

leave KFC for the rebel legion or this guy

a ROTJ style butt is only for EIB/centurion that should not prevent you from getting 501st approval.. just keep up the good work and get your 501st approval , your very close.. you can always make changes after if you desire

Sean is correct.. the holster is allowed only for convenience and is not seen on the game models. looping or attaching with 4 rivets or chicago type screws is ok the 4 rivet option would be best if you plan to use it regularly (the holster is not allowed for centurion level)

updated! now we just need some CFO EIB's and Centurions on another note the search tags have not been working since the last site update......

one again.. fantastic work Corey, thanks for these :duim: you are the GO-TO guy for all things video game related

that is sweet! i have often thought about making a setup like that for my helmet and you have nailed it do you think it would work in other lids?

you do need to mod that helmet to make it 501st acceptable. IMHO building a kit built from scratch would be the same amount of work (or less) and look much better

the boots and pauldrons look like they are made by TKboots from http://www.tkboots.com/ they are the same photos anyway, and are top quality. but i bought my stuff direct from the website. i am not sure myself it this is the same person or a ebay re-seller unless sobody can confirm that this is the same seller as TKboots, i would buy them off the website above personally. they also have great customer service

when you get your new battery here are some tips that may help the batter live longer. Tip 1: lithium batteries do not need to be completely drained and recharged before using. They will still come to a full charge later if you start using them right out of the box. In fact, leaving your lithium-ion battery empty for too long (or too often) can actually drain battery life. even if you are not using it charge it up once in a while Tip 2: Although you don't want to leave your battery sitting without charge for too long, every once in a while it does a lithium battery good to fully drain and recharge. Tip 3: When it comes time to store away your amp in long periods of non-use, put it in the fridge with a 40% charge. The 40% charge is high enough to fight the battery from losing its charge and low enough to ensure the battery doesn't fall victim to "unnecessary stress." i know it sounds weird lol but it works make sure if you do this you either remove the battery and put it in the fridge or seal the amp in a ziplock bag to avoid moisture damage

Nice! try to document your build, we need a good tutorial for this

oh and lithum batteries cannot be zapped (restored by a high voltage jolt) once they loose the charge you need to replace them

you could buy a new battery they use a 7.5V lithium battery pack unfortunatly the battery cost more than a new amp you could wire it up to run on regular AA batteries ideally 5 but a 4x battery pack should work or a 7.4 v battery from an RC car, but you would need to remove the battery to charge and it would be too big to fit inside

just a note that having the knee ammo puch mounted like that is not a requierment for any level (base-centurion) at this point time and i agree with the others flip the Ab plate detail.. its a quick simple fix..

EIB approved!!!