Tray

Tim, they are on the legion web site. Skutch made them. There's a TK, TB and a TD one right now. Not sure if there are more yet.

I used rubberized undercoating. It is for automobiles and usually used to coat the underside of cards to protect them from the road elements. I love it. Mine has been this way since i joined in Oct of 2007 and my helmet shows no signs of staining or discoloration from it. ------------

As stated in the armor makers thread T/MC is also made in black.

the flat edges would normally go together at the butt and kidney and the rolled edges to the chest and kidney usually match up. That's what I would do.

LOVE IT!!!!! Thanks Damian. You are awesome. I can't tell you how much it bugged me to see it like that for so long. Thank you thank you. PM me your address. I am sure I have a prize for you.

Okay, this FISD 2010.6 forum is bullocks. There is no link back to the main index like at FISD 2010. I realize clicking the big giant logo on top does this but I am not a fan on clicking logos. I like word links. Why would I want to just go back to the Enlisted Barracks or the Tech Center from here? Bring our links back and make life easier or just fix the FISD 2010 theme.

Yuck. the black background is not nice. Can't it just be fixed in the FISD 2010?

it appears fine for me. Maybe restart computer?

This has been like this for a very long time. Is this me or can this be fixed. It looks bad to me and I don't see why my admin area should cover the search box.

good to here Bluey. I'll be sure to remember who you really are. Thanks for the story. My nickname is and always has been Tray. Born Raymond D. Nichols III, my father named me after himself and his father just so he could call me Tray being the 3rd Ray so Tray has been my nickname since the very day I was born and I have never been known as Raymond ever in my life except on government documents. Always nice to have a nickname. Some times I wish I could have one except that I am already one.

for the helmet I used a screw and nut so that I could take it back apart if I ever wanted to. While they pop riveted it for the movies I don't see why I would ever do that. I use screw caps that cover the inside to make it clean. It also lets me take the helmet apart if I ever had to and not take a drill to it. I've seen holes get torn through things when doing that. ---------

The kit looks great. It might be my screen but the blue looks dark to me. Excellent work on it.

Looking sweet. The hovi screws go from inside. If you push in the helmet into a slight dimple the screw will fit. The threaded rod idea is nice to. I might start using that idea myself.

Um... hopefully none that show. Regular pop rivets will hold the drop boxes on if you have 2 part boxes. 3/8" split rivets work for the knee plate and battery belt on the thigh and also on the clam shell. Paint white after installation. Some people say there is a flowery kind of rivet used on the clam shell also. You can use 3/16" chicago screws for the holster through the belt. They look the best and still allow you to remove the holster for some events. What are you riveting first? Where on the helmet would you be riveting? I don't recall rivets anywhere on a helmet.

I've assembled a few of these but it will be nice to see someone else's build of it. Thanks for doing this for everyone.

I used split rivets. 3/8". they are silver and you will have to paint the tops after you assemble the clamshell. -----------

i think the ones i have are 3/16". they are all the same around the outside. Just the depth is different to go through the belt and leather.

really? You want it to be bumpy like that?

I to understand being impatient. I sell kits here on the boards and I myself get impatient when they aren't out in time. While I don't make the armor I am always on my makers back about time and when it will be done. This is an art. And you can't rush art. Patience is a very big thing in this hobby. Weather effects plastic more than anyone could possibly imagine. I have seen it first hand. I've seen as much plastic wasted as it takes to actually pull a kit. And when that happens you run out of stock fast. As people have stated in the past, it takes time to get stuff. Not everyone gets your orders in days or weeks. People have waited months and months for stuff. Take a breath and know your armor will arrive and you'll feel like a kid and Christmas time.

i hot glued mine in. With the faceplate off I glued it in place holding it with my hand while gluing with the other. I blew on it for a little while until it cooled and was held in place. I brought the glue over the edge to lock it more in place. Then I used headliner material to finish it off. This was for a display helmet I made. I haven't done the headliner material for my current wearing helmet. ---------

I used Rustoleum spray paint dark machine gray 7587. It is the same color I use on the frown and ear cap. with the decals I offer with my kits it is the closest match.

Oooops. Sorry. and I always complain about people not reading the whole post. My bad.

You might want to raise the belt as well. The belt should come to just below the ab dots. It looks like in the photo yours is about 2 inches short. Your shoulder straps are a bit long as stated above. The square end on the back side of the straps should/could be removed to be more screen accurate. That would allow you to bring the back up higher to start and then work from there. As stated by Paul, don't do anything until you have the placement of the chest and back correct first. With those adjustments you should be closer to where you want to be.

Excellent News Julie. Looking forward to seeing you get your approval.

This is how mine are aligned. Although they align slightly inside they would typically be flush to the edges as if you held a straight edge down the belt and drop boxes. I just happen to miss it when I took the photo and didn't align perfectly. They do sit right when wearing though. I use the chicago screws as well.