RogueTrooper

Also with the AP kit, the Butt and kidney are one piece(like the ROTJ). This would make it easier, if you wanted to mod it into an ROTJ suit. But note that the AP is one of the more expensive kits. If you have to mod a kit into a ROTJ suit, best to buy a HIPS kit (HIPS needs to be painted). Since you need to fill and shape around the inverted AB button section to make it look like the original ROTJ suits, you will need to paint to cover up the mods. You could do the same with an ABS kit, but why spend more money on the ABS kit, when you are going to have to paint to cover up the mods on it as well...

Hey Tom, You might want to check with JoeR and sskunky to see if they have any ROTJ armor ready. The ROTJ armor is not exactly the same as ANH and ESB, but you can take about any of the kits and mod them into ROTJ armor. But first see if CFO has any, it would be easier in the long run.

Yea, here is a pix for AP, I highlighted the parts, but I see that you found them

The button covers should be in your AP kit, Have you laid out all of your kit? The couple of AP builds that I have seen on here, I believe that the square button covers are on the same piece of ABS as the Ab cover, shoulder bridges, drop boxes, ect...

Hey Nat!!Great to see you back! Nice pix BTW.

Congrats Tiffanie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am happy that you got the number that you wanted!

Hey Darren, Don't want to pile on the list, but I just want to make sure that you acheive the best that you can. Your tube stripes look to be a little long and a little wide. My suggestion is to get one of Mike's tube stripe stencils, here is the link: http://members.cox.net/appstronaut/tube_mask.html Also, if you need new brow trim, he will have it as well: http://members.cox.net/appstronaut/tk4510_decals.html. BTW, here is a four part video tutorial that should help you with the hand painted parts of the ANH lid:http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12855&st=0&p=159463&hl=humbrol&fromsearch=1entry159463 Like Panda said, study the pix of the ANH Stunt lids.

Congrats on the trade. Post more pix when you get them. BTW, the "move along" and "how long have you had these droids" were lines from the same TD Captain at the road block,(well known now as Move Along) who was played by Anthony Forrest. He also played the character "Fixer" from a deleted scene from ANH.

Like Mason said use some scrap to fill in the gap. Here is what I would do. Glue a piece of scrap on each side of the inside of the gap, then use white model putty to smooth/blend the out side to give the contour and shape. You might be asking why not just use one piece of scrap across the whole gap? One reason is that the area could be a stress point and fillers may crack, the other reason is that you don't want the area to look like one piece, you want to have a slight seam. How much gap you have will depend on the look you are trying to achieve. Like Vern said above, the originals did have slight seam gaps in some of the suits, so I would not stress on making it super tight. Check with your local hobby/model shops, they will have Model Putty, make sure you get it in white. There are several brands of white model putty, out there.

Hey Eric, Chris/tk9122 is a member of the Arkansas Crimson Nova Squad, and is on here regularly. PM him and see. Also Chris might know of someone else who would be there in white armor for your wedding. Chris's profile: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showuser=8067 Keep us updated.

Hey Connor, Congratz on getting armor from Matt.That is a rarity. Are you going for your EIB? ------------ Measure 5 times, cut once, and take your time...If you need help or advice, just post, we are happy to help. Have fun with your build, take lots of pix!!! I am ready to watch. http://www.myemoticons.com/images/entertainment/movies/sharing-popcorn.gif

Matt, I don't think that you are going to fail the EIB with what you have done by the scope rail being a little too high, the Hegnstler being farther away from the body and the M38 being more forward than normal. The blaster requirements for EIB ANH state: Blaster * Folding stock (does not need to function) * Hengstler counter * D-ring on the rear * Correct style scope * Two power cylinders on the magazine * Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast. -- Total of 6 T-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered) * Hasbro blasters: -- Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) or 6 T-tracks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-track and drill a new row of holes) -- Hasbro blasters are discouraged but allowed * No ESB/ROTJ greeblies on the blaster are allowed There is no where in this list does it state that placement of parts are measured or specifiy the sheen of the paint. So I think you can breathe easy about that. However, if you want to, you could take the time and move the scope back on the rail, tighten the Hengstler closer to the body of E11 and make the body a satin black. You have worked hard this far, why not go all the way.

Hi Helge, good to see that you got the gap between the kidney plate and back plate looking better. BTW, did you get any E6000 ordered?

Nice! Have fun Darren!

From what I have seen and read, the ROTJ lid (JoeR) style only had decals. I would assume that it would have been more efficient to have done them all in decals instead of hand painting them, like they did in ANH. I don't think they would have been that particular about how the details on the ROTJ TK's were, since most of them were in the battle (quickly moving about) on Endor and the lighting of the forest would have mask the detail somewhat. Is the helmet that your are doing the one that you had sitting in fromt of a 1000 watt halogen, that got a little toasty? If so, the helmet could have changed slightly enough that the decals don't fit as well. Also, if you look at the pix below, the decals don't fit the original ROTJ's that well either.

Hey Steve, just wanted to see how your ATA ESB TK build was doing, also how is your finger/knuckle doing? I hope is better.. As for image host site just use Photobucket. Photobucket is free to use. Here is the link: http://photobucket.com/ And this link will help too: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=10747

Do what Mason said here. Study the build threads and focus on the requirements for your particular TK variant. When you are talking about the two piece body construction: The AB, kidney plate and butt plate are held together and are worn with a suspender style strap. The chest and back piece are put together like a shirt and worn that way. When it comes to this style of build typically a piece of elastic strapping is on both the left and right sides connecting the bottom corner of the chest and back plate. This elastic usually ends up overlapping the kidney plate and is very noticeable. That piece of elastic strapping may hamper you from getting you EIB. If you want to go the two piece route like you are talking about, if you can hide the strapping so it is not overlapping the sides of kidney plate, I think you will be OK. As for trimming your armor, the AP actually is built for an average size guy. So, you possibly won't have to do as much trimming as you may expect. Here is pic from ABS80/Mike Harrison, showing a guy 5' 7" wearing the armor without any modifications or major trims other than trimming to the normal edge. But, if you do need to trim your armor and want to put back the return edge to give the 3-D effect, here is a link that will help you out in doing that: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12972 Also, with the AP kits, you are going need to upgrade the Hovi's, the neck trim (which you can get from Mike/TK4510) here is the link: http://members.cox.net/appstronaut/tk4510_decals.html But, if you have questions about anything, just post. We are here for you. Tom

I got sith

I see what you are talking about, I have never seen that variant before. From what I have read and seen they had two screws, one above and one below the logo, no matter if it was the "big eagle" or the eagle with the Hengstler logo. But, you never know, as cobbled together as the weapons were on ANH, anything is possible.

The were two different Hengtler Eagle counters used in ANH. Big Eagle no "Hengtler" logo, and Eagle with "Hengtler" logo: Great find Sam, post some pix please!

Brian before mentioning AA : Brian after mentioning AA : Have a great signing and time in Florida Brian!!

Hey Oscar, I just voted, I gave it to the TK chilling in the pool! I kid! I kid! I voted for you man..

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DAMIAN!!! Thanks for all that you do on the FISD!! Hope you have a great B-day!!!

I truly feel bad for you Ricky. It sounds like you were sold a "bill of goods". I know there is a tremendous amount of info on the FISD and we are willing to do what we can to point you in the right direction, give you tips, show how to mod things, but sometimes a visual aid and tips can go just so far. Also, you may need some hands on help with this portion of your build. I looked at the UK Garrison's map and it doesn't look like there is anyone in Whales, but there are a ton of members in the UKG. It may relieve some of the heartache and stress that you are having over your modding, by getting some hands on help from one of the veterans in the UKG.. Jump on the UK Garrison's forum and see if there is anyone that is going to be close enough to you that you could go to one of their armor parties. Or maybe there is someone from the UK Garrison that could meet up with you and give you some hands on help with some of the trouble spots that you are having. Since the guy had already pre-trimmed your shins and sounds like he over trimmed them. They were not built for you per se, and you may wind up having to get replacements for them. Here is the UK forum link if you haven't already been on there: U.K. Garrison Forum Link If you do need sheets of ABS to try to make shims, check you local hobby shops that deal in building RC vehicles. A lot of the people that do that, vacuum form their own vehicle designs out of ABS, HIPS, etc. If you can't find a hobby shop that deals in RC's and has ABS sheets, let me know and I will help you out in getting enough to make shims. Tom BTW, all the little TK lids represents a UKG memeber:

E6000/fabric would be the best reinforcing the insides of your armor. Try emailing ePlastics at [email protected] to see if they have a local dealer in Norway or know somewhere you can get their "HIPS Styrene Plastic Glue". http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Styrene-Glue