RogueTrooper

EIB Requirements - ANH link to ANH Stunt/Hero EIB: http://www.whitearmor.net/home/requirements/anh.html Blaster Folding stock (does not need to function) * Hengstler counter * D-ring on the rear * Correct style scope * Two power cylinders on the magazine * Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast. -- Total of 6 T-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered) * Hasbro blasters: -- Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes) or 6 T-racks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes) -- Hasbro blasters are discouraged but allowed * No ESB/ROTJ greeblies on the blaster are allowed

Great job Ricky! looks like you got the white finish very even...A lot better than the boots were in the movies(see pic) -------

First, disconnect the elastic between the cod piece and butt plate. That is making a big problem for you. It is pulling your butt plate down which in turn changes where your kidney plate is. If I may also suggest, separate or disconnect your back plate from your chest plate and add a little bit longer piece of canvas for the bridge between the two pieces. By adding a longer bridge, this will give you a little bit more length, eg. it will help lower the chest plate and back armor, thus giving you less area that you will need to shim. Try doing some test fittings after adjusting those areas. A tip: to temporarily hold/bridge the back plate to the chest plate, use blue painters tape or some type of tape that will not leave a residue on the armor. Try this and see where your are. If you need help, just post.

BTW, the accurate width of the cover strips is 20mm for thighs and shins. But, if you need more room with your thighs or shins but want to keep a more accurate look to your armor, try this: Use a 20mm cover strip in the front, then make the back wider by using wider cover strip/shim on the back. This will give you more room, and keep the front of your armor looking screen accurate.

Happy to help you man! I have seen people do it both ways, cut the edge straight parallel to the form ridge and I have seen some taper it down to fit their leg. I would suggest cutting everything straight with the ridge form. I suggest that you cut the edges straight first, tape together the two halves and do a test fitting. Make sure when you are doing your test fitting to have either your under suit on or something clingy like it on. Anything other than that, will make it hard to know if it fits correctly. If you want to taper it later, you can always do that. Here is a link to help you with your thighs: HOWTO: Assemble thighs (butt join with cover strips) As for the length of your thighs, after you assemble them, you may need to trim a bit around the top lip of the thighs to get them to fit you correctly, if needed. First before doing any type of trimming/tweaking, get basically everything assembled and then do test fittings to see if anything is too long or maybe just needs adjusting. After you have done all of your test fittings, if you do end up trimming something that has a return edge, this link will help so you can replace that return edge on your armor: HOWTO: Make a return edge on armor using a heat sealing iron Video tutorials! But first just get the basic stuff trimmed out, assembled and test fitted. If you have any questions or want somebody's opinion, just post pix and we will be happy to help you. Here are some pix of some original screen used TK thighs to give you a point of reference:

You are correct: Green areas do have return edges. Red areas do not have return edges. As for the CO2/thermal detonator, here is a color chart to help you: Also, some on the FISD have used a medium gray flat spray paint, and some have used gloss "Slate Gray" spray paint. But if you want my opinion, I would go with either the Humbrol No. 5 "Dark Admiral Gloss Grey or the Testors "No. 1138 Grey" to make it screen accurate.

I know it can be a bit strange trying to figure out what parts are what, but hopefully this little diagram that I made for you, can help you with the thigh pieces. To give you a point of the reference, the inner thighs will have the " S style" swooped area at the front that is adjacent to the cod area. After finding the left and right inner thighs, you will then be able to match up the outer thighs to that. If you are still not sure after that, post some pix and we will pinpoint exactly which part is which. *Edited to correct a mistake in the pic*

I am with Terry on doing the butt join method(screen accurate), plus the cover strips helps if the two calf parts are not matching well. The VT kit is in the same vein as the other TE derived armor, it is meant to be done with butt joins, instead of the overlap method. The overlap method is meant for the kits like FX/AM. Link for more info on TK leg armor tutorial. BTW, congratz on getting your boots, it must be the day of TKBoots delivered, because another FISD member got theirs today too. They had the same problem of the boots being a little to big. I just told them to get some Dr. Scholls Gel inserts. Not only will the insert take up some room inside the boots, but for those long troops/standing on your feet, you will be very happy if you are "Gellin"

Just take this time to do some prep work like make sure you have "Basic tools needed for armour building" , and look over the Tutorials to refresh yourself and/or get familiar on what you will be doing. Make yourself a check list to work from. Have an area to work in that you can do your build without being disturbed so you can focus and have fun on your build.

Like Karin said above, use a dry brush technique to add silver paint to edges, corners or anywhere on the blaster that you would like to highlight or give the appearance where the paint has been worn. Just dip a brush into the silver paint and wipe as much paint off the brush as possible, you don't want the brush dripping with paint. Highlight the areas with the silver paint that you want to be battled weathered/scraped up. Then after the silver paint dries, take some steel wool and lightly run it over the areas that you highlighted with silver. The steel wool will give the effect of a worn metal look to the silver paint. The different gauges of steel wool, will also give different levels of battle scars, weathering/scrapes. After you get the weathering to where you want it, you can clear coat it to protect the whole paint job. I would suggest satin because the real E11's had more of a satin finish to them than a high gloss. Experiment on a piece of scrap before doing it to your blaster so you have the technique down

Awesome job Juan! One thing, are you going to add the two power cylinders on the magazine house?

Hey Michael, congratz on getting your TKBoots. Not only using "thicker socks on colder troops" will take up space, but you can get ya some Dr. Scholls Gel inserts. Not only will the insert take up some room inside the boots, but for those long troops/standing on your feet, you will be very happy if you are "Gellin"

Have fun Lou!! I will be watching man. BTW, are you going for your EIB with with your ESB build?

Only if your TK armor is made of Legos..... Here's a Reference pix: ---------- So get ya a lot of white legos, and get to building... .

The sealing iron or also known as a hobby iron is used to help when are needing to make a return edge after trimming a part of the armor. The return edge gives certain parts of the armor the 3 dimensional look to them like the tops of the thigh armor to give you one of the many points of the armor that have return edges. You can find out a lot more at this link about the sealing/hobby iron. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12972 Do me a big favor Jason, lets not go to far with any other questions and hijack Helge BlueGrot's TE2 mod. Lets keep him on target and if you have anymore questions, please start a new topic I think everybody here will jump in and give you their help and advice.

It is a Sealing Iron used for RC planes to smooth out and seal the material the covers them : http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN101

Hey Jimmy here is a video Helmet Build by Mike (TK4510) for the TE2 lid. Link to videos: http://www.vimeo.com/album/140066 The basic video tutorial will help you with you VT lid build. Parts 19, 20,and 21 you will not need to watch. Just stop at the point that Mike starts spray painting the helmet, since your VT helmet is made of ABS, and will not need to painted white.

You can trim off the ridge on the top of Face plate,that part is not needed. As for the neck area, Wait until you get the the lid totally put together with the ears to do any trimming of the neck opening. The ears play a big part in blending the face plate to the back of the helmet.

BTW, here is how much I would say you could take off the cod area. Make sure you taper the edge to blend like the red dotted line is in the pic below:

With your cod piece, you could get away with trimming a little bit off of it, about 5mm off of the bottom edge. Before doing that, you might need to extend the elastic that connects the butt plate to the cod piece. If the elastic is too short it will make the armor bind on you, thus rubbbing and pinching will occur. Also, I see that your butt plate could be trimmed back a bit. The area that has like a shawdow line around it, should not be there. The TE2 suits were derived from an original ROTJ suit. The original ROTJ suits were trimmed back to that point. The material that is left there is overkill and most people make the mistake of leaving it there. Or, if you wanted to make it really uber ANH,(The original ANH butt plate has a return edge) To make the return edge, you will need a hobby iron. (see the video below and links below about return edges). To see where I am talking about for the butt plate, see the pic below. The red dotted line is where the butt plate should actually be trimmed for that armor: See the video of How To make a return edge, using a hobby iron: More information about return edges at this Link: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=12972 .

I actually like your original forum name, No'l, and understood the derivation. But "Bluey" is cool too. Since it is a nickname that you were branded with a while back, I think it is a great choice for you. I will just have to get use to seeing "Bluey" instead of "No'l" I have been called a lot of names in my life, a few of which I couldn't post here. The only time I have had a nickname was when I worked on a movie set and somehow got the nickname "Knuckles". A lot of people that heard the nickname thought I was boxer or a mean SOB that liked to fight. On the contrary, I got it because everytime I did something on the set, I went at it with full force. But, I didn't keep the nickname after the movie was over. When it came to doing my avatar here, I couldn't think of anything that stood out and I remembered I had made a funny pic a year or so before, with a Cylon hanging out with two TK's in a bar. I thought that would be my signature, but realized that people would question what is a guy with a Cylon as his forum name doing on an SW forum. So, I came up with an elaborate back story that this Cylon was tired of chasing the survivors of the 12 Colonies and jumped ship and signed up with the Empire. Since it relates to the old addage, "a square peg trying to fit in a round hole", or someone who doesn't fit in, thus the name is Rogue or RogueTrooper. Profile Pic: I guess I thought about it way too hard also, like you did Bluey. Especially if you think about the fact that I made a back story just for my avatar.

Love the way you roll Paul! CONGRATZ MAN!!!!

Hey John, your jedi mind tricks don't work on me..... I googled, and it looks like this: www.iwmdvds.com has the "best of" season 1 & 2: http://www.iwmdvds.com/items/special-interest-dvds/scare-tactics-season-2-dvd-collection-scaretactics2-detail.htm But something about the wording on www.iwmdvds.com makes me think that their DVDs are Bootlegs?!?! Amazon has season 3 (part 1): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scare-Tactics-Season-Uncensored-Region/dp/B002IRDDN4 Also it looks like Netflix has seasons 1, 2, and 3. Link: http://www.netflix.com/Search?v1=Scare+Tactics+ BTW, I am uploading 10 episodes + extras from season 2. I will post the upload links when they are all uploaded. You will be able to download them direct and watch them on your PC or burn them to disc I will see if the stores around me have the other seasons that you are looking for. BTW, do you want them new or do you mind if they are used?

I have had something similar in that respect. I had an overseas courier dispatch something, then the package was put in the hands of FEDEX and then FEDEX put it in the hands of the Postal Service. Lots of times items get held up in Customs, for no apparent reeason. I felt like my package was coming by a mule with two broken legs, but it did get to me. The Postal Service is one of the worst about their paperwork and updating their online info.

Boy ya brought that back from being an Ewok bongo... Good work John!