RogueTrooper

To answer your question Vern, the body is 38mm. The placement where the cap connects is 42mm. Yea, I have seen some discrepancies in the BBC's tutorial, but it is at least a starting point for some people if they want to start from scratch. And, they can adjust it along the way, or purchase a pre-drilled one like you or Mason have up for sale.

Contact Matt and ask him what brand of Biscuit White to get. I think he probably used the Rustoleum. One thing about paint companies, even though it is the same brand and same color number of paint, these companies still have a tolerance level of how the batches come. One batch may not be the exact same color tone as the other. What color primer did you use? Also, different primers and color tone of the primer can change the color tone of the paint. (The brighter the primer, the brighter the finish). Try to find a white aerosol primer. You can usually find them at pro paint shops. like Du Pont, Sherwin Williams, etc. If all else fails, you can get the pro paint shop to color match and mix you up the enamel paint to match the color tone of the helmet. Just take the helmet with you to the pro paint shop. As for how much trim you will need for your ROTJ, the minimum that you will need to trim this out is 23 feet. But since the trim is so cheap to buy, I would get at least 30 feet, so if you make an oops you will have extra....

When do we get to see pix of your helmet build? BTW, don't trim the neck lip area until you have attached both ears. The ear placement will help bridge/hide/mask the neck area of the face plate to the cap & back...

Here is video that a FISD member posted on youtube with Party City/Walmart/Halloween shop Voice changer: I think it would be fun to plat around with and see what you can do with it.....

Here, here, to what Paul said. The true reward is being in the EIB section and having a suit that you are proud of. There is no plaque, coin, t-shirt, or mug that could replace that. So whoever won the coins, if they have not earned the EIB, then it is just another coin.

I concur with John, I measured my two real Sterling SMGs with a micrometer, and they are both 38mm. BTW, if you have not been to the Blaster builders Club site, it will help you with your E11 build,(downloadable blueprints and tutorials) Here is the link: -----------

Hey Jenny great to hear that you got your kit!! Take your your time, have fun and take lots of pix!! When it comes to cutting the material, just use the score and snap method... Start with the arms first to get you acclimated to your build. Link to the arm tutorial: http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/arms.html BTW, which TK version are you doing?

I would say that the Jackson 34-42 Dark Green Visor Product Code: 3002818, would be the lightest I would go.. I think it's a #3 shade. A tip; If you paint the inside of your lid a dark color like black, it will help make the lens look darker. With the inside of the helmet dark it helps to keep down the light from bouncing off the inside of the helmet, that could illuminate through the lens and make them easier to see through from the outside.

I am with Brian on this, get youself an ATA ABS kit. With an ABS kit you will not need to paint like you would with a HIPS kit.. And if you need hands-ons help, get to know you local 501st. they will be help to help ya as well!! You can find your local 501st on the front page of this link: http://www.501st.com/ After you find your local 501st website jump on their forum and introduce yourself, and get to know them. Ask if anyone is doing an "Armor Party"... An "Armor Party is where a group of people help one another with their costumes, builds etc... BTW I see that this is you first post on the FISD, so welcome Nathaniel!!! Make yourself at home. Tom

The TE2 video tutorial will also help you out, as well. Here are parts 1 and 2, you can view rest at this link: http://www.vimeo.com/album/140066

As you can see from the diagram that I made, the original screen used lid had the same problem...

Hey Helge, The sides are not going to sit flush, The ear will help cover that. This tutorial should help ya with you Cap-w lid build: -----

Great work Matt! Keep up the good work!!

Great How To Mason!!

Also here is a great review on the ATA that was in the FISD Newsletter... At the bottom of this there are some ATA builds and info on painting HIPS... Hope it helps ya, Tom From the NEWSLETTER: January 2011 This month, we feature a full review on ATA armor! Greetings troopers! Going forward, (the staff with assistance from FISD members) will be conducting detailed reviews of the various armor makes, to give troopers a better idea of what the specific features and qualities of each kit are. This month, we have chosen to highlight the ATA kit. ATA Armor Highlight and Review by Terry / Pandatrooper FISD Intelligence Officer ATA has been around for some time and has produced a quality armor / helmet set for troopers wishing to portray TK's, TD's, TX's (kits are available in black) for any stormtrooper based character. The lineage of the armor comes from CAP-W / TE, which has roots to the ROTJ tour suit. Thus, it's "screen accurate" in terms of sizing and detailing, and will fit most average / idealized sized troopers (commonly believed to be approx. 5' 9" / 10", and 165lbs). Completed ATA armor ATA armor is available in complete sets, helmet only, or even individual parts (pending availability) The armor is made from a bright white HIPS (high impact polystyrene) plastic. It has a matte finish and is very easy to trim, cut and reshape with a heat sealing iron (if required). ATA kits generally include the following "hard parts": ATA armor ATA helmet - Helmet parts (brow and neck trim, green welders lens, white Hovi mic tips, mesh, helmet and mic tip hardware) - All body armor parts (depending on which stormtrooper character) - Additional plastic for cover strips - does not include any velcro, adhesives, elastic, etc. ATA comes rough trimmed, so you will not only need to assemble the armor, but also trim along the proper edges. Some edges are more clearly defined than others, but using reference photos can help in trimming. Trimming the armor can be easily done using the "score and snap" method (repeatedly scoring along a line and snapping the plastic to separate the parts) or using lexan scissors or tin snips. While a Dremel cutting wheel can work, care must be taken as HIPS plastic is softer and can heat up quickly. In terms of sizing, ATA is a fairly "standard" screen accurate size which is common among other makers such as AP, TE2, etc. Components Since ATA has lineage to the CAP-W/ TE, many of the components are considered "standard" in terms of common details seen on most armor. All of the armor and helmet pieces are considered much more accurate than FX or AM armor. Below are some details regarding specific pieces, which may be an upgrade from those transitioning from the older fan sculpted FX armor. Helmet: The helmet has good detail in the face and cap and back. The undercut on the cap and back is slightly less than other helmets, but it does not detract from the overall shape. The mic tips are a cast white resin, with silver mesh which must be assembled and painted. There are "U" shaped rubber trims provided for the brow and the neck trim. Partially completed ATA helmet Ab buttons / button plate: The AB comes with a TD specific ab button box molded into the ab plate. Should you want to portray a TK, there are separate button panels and a button strip that must be trimmed and glued on. Partially completed ATA torso Belt armor / rivet covers: the belt armor does not have square indentations where the rivets or snaps can be installed (to attach the armor to a canvas belt). The covers can be simply glued on top. Close up of belt detail Butt: The butt is formed separate from the back plate, which is correct for ANH and ESB suits. Biceps and forearms: The CAP-W / TE2 suits have unique biceps and forearms. The left bicep is "pointy" while the right is slightly larger and has a square notch opening. Also note the "thumb print" on the bicep, which was seen in some of the original armor. Bicep and forearm pieces Thighs: The thighs again are derived from the CAP-W / TE suit. As such, the right thigh is slightly longer and pointier at the top, where as the left is slightly shorter and has a rounder top. Comparison of left and right thigh tops Chest and back: Of note to those with FX armor, you will notice a big difference between FX or even the updated AM compared to ATA armor. The ATA chest and back are much more accurate. The chest is rounder, and much smaller and more defined than fan made chest armor. The back is also similar with a more modestly sized back box and "OII" details). Thermal detonator: the thermal detonator includes the control panel and end caps. You will need to find a section of PVC or ABS pipe, along with metal clips to attach the detonator to your belt, if you want an accurate replica. Conclusion This is a very fun and easy kit to assemble. The HIPS plastic is very easy to trim and finish, which can result in a very screen accurate armor build. The quality, affordability, customer service and availability of the kit are it's strongest factors. ATA's customer service and support is great, and they are willing to answer any questions you may have. In terms of a final white finish, you have several options. You could leave the white matte finish as is (which works fine for TD's), paint the kit (sanding, using a white primer or white lacquer based paint) or polish the kit. The majority of people tend to paint the kit as it results in a very glossy white finish, and is fairly easy to achieve. The most common paints troopers are using are Rustoleum and Krylon, both of which can achieve a good finish. It's been reported that Rustoleum achieves a glossier finish. You can also polish the kit via wet sanding, and using plastic polish to give it a final sheen. See links below for discussion threads and tutorials. Many troopers in the 501st legion have either upgraded their armor and or helmets to ATA due to it's great features and quality. Links to options for adding a gloss finish to styrene kits Painting a HIPS kit Discussion for making armor shiny Polishing a HIPS kit to make it shiny Some links to ATA kit builds Dashrazor ATA build Midnyt17 ATA helmet build Naatsirhc ATA build Dark GT104 ATA build Pandatrooper's ATA TD build

Congratulations Alexandra! have fun with your build! Here is a link to help you with the arms, start there first... http://www.whitearmor.net/home/tutorials/armor-tutorials/arms.html

Looking good Kirby! I am with Ryan about bring the bicep piece up a bit... Also, when you get to your forearms, get rid of the return edge at the wrist and pretty much all at the elbow. Why I say this, because on the original TK armor, the forearms didn't have a return edge at the wrist, and very, very little to none at the elbow. See pix below:

Too late... All out of thin mints right now, all I've got are TD-move-alongs... They are a lot like the Girl Scout's Tagalongs but insted of p-nut butter as the filler they have sand... But I do have some 100 Proof Peppermint Schnapps and a Hershey bar...Will that do??

Ask and ye shall receive...here you go Vern!!

That's the sprint, come on in Tommy and have a Wookie cookie! FYI the Wookie cookies are a little furry, so you will need lots of blue milk!

No, Pat, my friend, you got the facts wrong.... You must be out of Xango Juice, here's a link to get some. To set the recond straight... not jail, but the witness protection program, and I am not recruiting for my religion, but The Cult. Please Pat, come join The Cult, :headphone: With our combined strength, we can end this destructive conflict and together, we can rule the galaxy...plus we have cookies....

Yea, you keep this up, and you'll be like Paul/Daetrin... Just take a look at Paul's backyard:

Congratulations Mason on you 1000th post!!!!! You've been on here just a little over a year.... God it seems a lot longer.LOL Just wanted to thank you for some great tutorials, for being there for the FISD members, making yourself a staple in the EU section and filling some heavy shoes with the EIB, and being an all around cool guy! The saying "it is not just the quantity but the quality that counts" certinly applies to you. So here is to your next 1000 post Keep up the great work man!

Sounds like a great plan to be more accurate, but wouldn't it be just as easy to buy a pair of Chelsea or Jodphurs in black and painting them white, instead of putting in a special order with the TKBoots in black. The other thoughts on it are that TKBoots only run even numbered sizes, where as regular Chelsea or Jodphur have 1/2 sizes and variable widths, as well. Just my 2 cents.

Here are my thoughts on the TKC saber matter. I own four original Graflex that I have mod into Luke's saber ANH and the different variants of of his ESB saber, so I am not a newbie when it comes to luke's Jedi weapon. As for the Starkiller Saber to the Luke's Graflex. In short, the Starkiller is more like Luke's ESB verison, with a longer hilt, without the T-tracks and a few grebblies added to it with some copper scheme. So for the CRL, someone could use the Luke ESB Saber, but state: Luke's ESB lightsaber (MR/Hasbro) are discouraged but allowed. Just like the TK CRL states about the Hasbro blasters. As for the EI, "Must Have" Starkiller saber or modified Graflex or customized FX lighsabers that resemble those seen in the games. Should have for EI: Starkiller lightsaber to match the game references as closly as possible. may also carry 2 lightsabers* And the FISD should be able to give a list of parts and a link to the site where someone can get it. Plus a tutorial/blueprint on how to build the Starkiller Saber to make it helpful to the members striving to have their TKC saber accurate and to help make it consistent for the costume.