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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2022 in all areas
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It’s amazing how much gets done when you put a day into building! I got some good work done today on the ab section. I was able to mark and drill holes, cut and install the nylon bolts and fill the sides with poly flex. Making pilot holes for the seven boxes Used a 11/32 bit for the nylon bolts to go through. Really freaked me out drilling through this!2 points
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Thank You all for your thoughts and concerns. I have an ETA on the build out of RS and that it should be here by mid April.2 points
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Sounds like a Plan! I look forward to working with whoever gets the assignment! I'm just excited I'm so close to 501st Official! I've been doing stuff on the side as an Unofficial Member in a highly modified Rubies TK, but everyone knows it costs too much to truly convert one of those piles of hot trash. XD Thank you Sir, it's much appreciated! I look forward to working with you guys on future builds as well! I'd like to start a Scout Trooper, Shadow Trooper, or Boba Fett next. Not really sure which one. Boba's are expensive though, I may have to wait until I grow up to retirement to get that one. Lol. Thank you Trooper! I'm glad to be back, and hopefully soon OFFICIALLY this time! I've waited 17 years to join the 501st! Glad to be back! Thank you very much for the welcome to this treasure trove of info! Hey there! I can't wait to get everything uploaded and approved! I'm just waiting on the last box to ship from the UK, its been on a week long hold... so as soon as that clears up, I'll be able to begin clearance photos! =) I'm very excited to get my REAL TK # finally after 17 years of waiting!2 points
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I started on the seven boxes and installing the nylon bolts. I marked the boxes on the inside while they were taped to the ab, through the holes I drilled. This allowed me to know where to glue the bolts. I hope this stuff holds as I have never used this before. These will set up overnight then may attach them tomorrow. Mixed some poly flex up to fill the side seams Letting this set overnight then will sand out and see how it looks tomorrow.1 point
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Thanks, Bryan.. I couldn't have done it without your awesome kit!1 point
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Hello and welcome aboard trooper. You can request higher access here Hola y bienvenido a bordo soldado. Puede solicitar acceso superior aquí1 point
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Thanks Jonas! Glad you like it. Trust me, I understand being busy. This took almost 2 years to finish, but it was worth it. The kit is great, but if I had to do it again I would spend the money on one of those new Denix MG-34's and just add the blaster details. Way less headache LOL Fortunately / Unfortunately, now that I have this project out of the way it means I now have to start on my new metal E-11 (with Blast-FX ) and my Boba build. I am such an idiot.... Can't wait to see your build,1 point
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At long last it is done!!!! I finally managed to grab some pics and videos of the final build. Youtube link to 4 videos will be posted at the bottom of this post (hopefully it works...). One of the videos has my commentary. Other ones are just showing the blaster and me pew-pewing with it, as well as the lighting effects of the barrel in a darkened room. Please bare in mind I am not a photographer or videographer, so be kind. I touched up some of the paint from doing the final build steps. I then clear coated everything in a Sem-gloss paint from a rattle can. This ended up being to shiny, so I went over everything again with Tamiya model paint dull coat. Everything except the shiny rings between the butt and receiver, and the butt itself. Enjoy... Over all shot. As you can tell, I am using the gun vise and not using the blaster bi-pod to support it. I still don't trust the bipod due to the cracking issues I had before. Each leg seems to flex when I tried to rest the blaster on them. Loving that side box paint job! My scratch built display details, as well as the fully functioning fire selector switch. Main and scope displays in the modes that I like, as viewed by a gunner. There are several different options for each display. Details of the bottom barrel T-track wires and pigtails. Of course, once all this was done I then found a new to me screen grab pic that of course shows the wires not at the end of the t-tracks, but more away from the edges. You can see the barrel wiring through one of the holes. Small sticky sided velcro strips that are required to hold the bipod up in retracted position. They can't be seen when the bipod is swung up. Velcro on the "Bipod Hold open knubbly conical bolt device". That is my official name for it... Underside of the receiver. The opening is where the main display would normally be. Not very useful or ergonomic for a DLT gunner checking on his ammo count... That is why I made my own. This is a separate panel that you can replace with another provided panel with no holes in case you aren't installing a Blast-FX. Just forward of the opening you see the sliding ON / OFF switch for main power. Forward of this is the button that you press momentarily to cycle fire modes (as opposed to using the grip circular switch). Or you can hold it down to enter the Blast-FX set-up mode, that, in conjunction with the trigger, allows you to change sound and lighting options. The main circuit board memory stick of the system has sounds for most weapons used in the SW universe, as well as ship sounds! It is funny having a blaster that emits the sound of a TIE fighter or the Millennium Falcon each time you press the trigger. LOL Internal wiring and battery compartment with the receiver cover lifted up. You can see my resin 3D printed cocking handle. The screw did not come out when I started unscrewing the handle for transport. One last thing to fix. Video Link: I made a playlist with 4 videos. Maybe was a mistake? Anywhoooooo, if you click on the link all 4 will play back to back. Just fast forward them. sorry. My longer video with commentary is the last one. One or two of my pups show their faces1 point
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Hey boss! Glad you stopped by! I'm very excited to start my journey to L3! It has been a dream of mine since FX kits were all the rage. So it's been a long time comin, but the time is getting closer with each day! All starts with Basic Approval and as soon as I have that, I'll be prepped to make the jump for EIB! Then it's only a matter of time until I've got L3 standards met! Besides Centurion just sounds cool.1 point
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Looks AWESOME, Garrett! As you mentioned, there are a few places where some more glazing putty is needed, but it turned out fantastic! Depending on how detailed you want to get on your next build, one thing I would suggest is to go to Ace hardware (there are several in the Portland area) and pick up a few odds and ends. The cool thing about Ace is that they sell specialty screws (thousands more choices than Lowe's or Home Depot) and you can purchase them individually! I would go for a star-head screw in the side greeb For the muzzle they have the hex-head bolts (hundreds of sizes) and Carriage bolts to attach the folding stock (which you should be receiving tomorrow).1 point
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Hi there, I just recently received my RS ANH TK Stunt commission and was wondering how the current fit looks, or if any sizing adjustments need to be made (I see now in the pics that my belt is a little cockeyed as the snap locations need to be adjusted and that one of my drop boxes slid as I put it on) Also, I'm 5'6 for reference. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!1 point
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Hi Marty, Overall nice looking . As pointed above just small adjustments and once you're approved you may want to check our high level programs here to take your armor to a high level of accuracy. Good luck with your approval.1 point
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No requirement to have them curved, although if you have access to a 3D printer (or someone who has one) there are some nice files here thanks to John.1 point
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Now to finish up.. The front/rear scope greebs have been CA (super) glued on, and to keep them secure I added wood screws from underneath. I countersunk the holes slightly to where the screw head would be flush with the bottom of the rail and would not be noticeable. For the rebar clips, I went with slotted pan head screws, as they look like the ones in the reference images. Reference Pan head (slotted) Finished product The screw on the rectangle greeb is a round-head star screw. I looked all over, but this is the closest I could come. CA glue added to keep it from twisting. The buttons and "swoop" were simply CA glued on. And here it is. I will painting the brass grip screw black and weathering it slightly as soon as the paint cures. Epilogue: Are there details that are not "ideal"? Absolutely. Will it pass at Centurion? I like to believe so, lol. Are there things that I would do differently? Probably, but I'm pretty pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking!! Since I have the molds now, if anyone wants a set of these greebs I can hook you up for around 11 bucks (including postage). PM me for more info. (Not shown actual size) NEXT UP! ROTJ build... EDIT: Completed ROTJ build can be found here.1 point