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New Member Costume Approval Info - Elections 2022 With the Legion election period about to start January 31st, the membership database will be in lock down, during this time new member applications through your local garrison/outpost can not be finalized, you may however still submit them but they won't be processed until the end of this cycle. This does not affect the addition of any new costumes to an active members roster/profile, however it does affect any membership status changes ie: active / reserve / retired and any personal information updates. The period of membership database lockdown for 2022 starts January 31st and ends Feb 21st.

Folding Stock The folding stock for the ROTJ version was (for the most part) the same as the L2A3. However, 2 differences I noticed were that there is a rivet in the section that folds out (left side only). I have no idea why it's there, but it will lock the stock in place when present, so that may be why they did it. There is also a hole toward the rear. I have drilled these out (below) and will add the rivet in the front, and since the rear hole seems to have a backing of some sort I will probably just glue a tiny ABS scrap behind it before re-painting. Reference images One more tiny detail is that unlike the L2A3 type, an E-clip is present behind the bolt on the stock hinge (both sides). Looks like a trip to the hardware store! Reference images E-clip

Thank you brother. Always appreciate your kind words and support.

Love your applications so much, best of luck on this one as well.

Well maybe I will give it a try and see what I think.

A blaster is required for EIB and Centurion its only optional for basic approval

@ukswrath, @justjoseph63, @Sly11 thank you so much for all of your help and support getting this far!! Def will start putting together my EIB submission. Should I wait until my blaster is finished, or go for it without blaster?

That weapon is looking fantastic, Gerald! I am thinking you read through my post here, but I would not suggest using the XTC epoxy on the shroud. The reason is that it is not very viscous and it will drip though the holes into the barrel inside and make a mess. After a thorough sanding with 200 grit, in addition to the Bondo glazing I just applied 2 coats of the primer/filler. Bada-bing, bada-boom. Ready for paint, but don't forget to cover the area where the T-tracks will be with tape first.

So while I am waiting for my BBB to arrive, I decided to jump into the 3D printing world and take my new printer for a spin and start the E-11 blaster project. After about a week of printing, I have 3/4 of the parts printed. Yesterday I spent most of the day sanding and started the basic assembly. The photos are post Bondo and pre Bondo sanding. Tonight I will be smoothing with the XTC 3d print coating. This is such a satisfying hobby. I must admit there were a few pew pew moments last night chasing the pets around the house.

Hi everyone, I though I would post the process I used to make my neck seal for others to use if they want to try and make their own. Materials: Stretch fabric - I used a tshirt type elastic material for the bib and the inside of the neck piece and a elastic stretch fabric with a shiny rubber like surface for the outside of the neck piece. Batting Paper for making a pattern. Right angle ruler. Sewing supplies. My neck size is 17”, so you may need to adjust some of the sizes accordingly. Based on your neck size. Step 1 - Make the pattern: Using a corner angle ruler, make a rectangle that is 26 inches wide by 14 1/2 inches tall. Mark the middle of the pattern along the long side of the rectangle with a dotted line. mark one side front and back Make a mark 10 1/2” from the edge of the front side. Make a second mark on the midline 12 inches from the edge back edge. Make a mark 13 3/4 inches from the back edge and 3 1/2 inches in from the side on each side of the pattern. Now using a pencil, make an oval on one half of the pattern from the 12 inch mark to the side marks at 13 3/4 inches and around to the 10 inch mark. Fold the pattern in hale and cut out the oval. Now we make the neck piece pattern: First make a fitted template for the neck part. This is essentially a rectagle measuring 4 inches tall and 17 inches wide (width is the same as your neck size). Mark the midline of the long side of the rectangle and make a mark 3 1/4 inches from the bottom of the neck piece. Freehand draw the curve from the marked spot up to the top of the neck piece as shown. Fold the paper on the midline and cut out the curve. Next, use the sized neck piece to create a pattern by adding an inch or two on either side and a half inch on the top and bottom to allow for seams. Seep 2: cutting the fabric: Pin the pattern to the favric and cut the fabric following the pattern, including the hole in the bib. For the neck piece, cut one piece of the outer fabric using the pattern and cut the inner fabric using the same pattern but leave extra length on the bottom to allow for the seam on the neck. use the fitted pattern to cut the batting. I used 3 layers of batting. Next, pin and hem the edge of the bib. Step 3: making the neck piece. On the non showing side of the outer piece of fabric, use the fitted template to mark the fabric along the seam line using a white fabric pencil or chalk. Pin the outer and inner pieces together along the top border of the neck with the inside and outside surfaces facing each other. Next , lift up the upper piece and fold the lower piece up to sit in between the two pieces. When the upper piece is dropped back down, then pin the upper and lower pieces along the bottom side of the neck piece. Now sew along the top and bottom sides of the neck piece. Do not sew the sides. Once sewn, this will create a tube. Turn the piece inside out so that the proper sides are now on the outside. Slide the batting into place by putting your hand in the tube and gently pulling it through. Take some time to position the batting inside the neck piece properly. Starting at the bottom of the neck piece, use a sewing machine with a walking foot to sew straight lines along the length of the neck piece. Use the previous line as a guide for the next one. Continue up the neck piece to the top. Step 4: attach the neck piece to the bib. Mark the centre of the front and back of the neck opening as well as the outermost points of neck opening at the shoulders. Next, mark the mid point , the back points ( I sewed lines from the top to the bottom where the neck piece will meet at the back), and the side points at the shoulders. Now, using the marked point to line up the pieces, pin the neck piece to the bib start at the middle front and then do the shoulders, pin the areas in between next and work your way all the way around the seam. This takes some time and several readjustments to get it right. Trimming off the excess length at the back of the neck piece helps a bit. You will have a gap of about an inch or so in the back but this is ok, the zipper will close it up. Make sure that the correct sides (inside and outside) of the neck and bib are in correct position. Now sew around the neck from the edge of one back point to the other back point. You likely will have a fair sized gap between the 2 back points, simply cut down the back of the bib in the middle of the space and sew a zipper in place that runs up the back and onto the neck section. you now have a completed neck seal. Happy trooping.

Hey all! Not much progress, but some updates! On the bright side, both of my other side projects have been completed - the Shadowtrooper I was mentoring has been approved and received his TKID this week! And the other suit I was building for a friend is out the door as well, so focus is back on the FOTK and finishing out my various other little projects. Since my last post, soft goods from Sheev's Emporium and Geeky Pinks have been delivered! I was EXTREMELY impressed with the care and attention that was put into packaging both orders, and with the overall quality of each. They'll obviously, definitely need some additional tailoring, but are in the right ballpark out of the box, and I'm very excited for them. I threw everything on with my TLJ BS helmet real quick for a test run below! I'm supersuper impressed with the stitching on the ribs that Sheev's does - my seamstress literally almost didn't believe that it was sewn and not a pattern until I showed her the backside. The material is also super flexible and pretty breathable - I won't be cool, but it's genuinely not THAT hot. The arms and 'shirt' actually fit pretty spot on (and I LOVE the accurate change in direction on the ribs), but the pants need to be trimmed to bring the knee gaskets up about 2", and I'll be adding stirrups. The shiny shorts fit pretty well, but will also need to be shortened. Neck seal quality is top notch (albeit worn crooked in the pic, my bad) though I may add some velcro to keep the bib held down. While we're on the topic of new stuff, I did order the shoulder/yoke reinforcement brackets from Tony, and I'm currently trying to figure out if/how I can install them, as I believe they were designed with ABS kits in mind. They still may work for me with a little bending and trimming. Interestingly enough, I pulled the holster off and noticed it is not in fact an R2-Dan and all metal as I thought, but a metal faceplate on a resin block. Still nice with the metal screws and all, just needs a repaint and I may use it until I can snag one of Dan's. Finally, I did end up selling the 3D printed F-11D from my original post to a garrison mate... I honestly just didn't want to sand it that much. I happened across a great deal for the above blaster and am pretty hyped on it. Metal accents really make a statement! And just some closing thoughts from @Dsposato0 and I - hit the bar, hang with friends, just make time to have some fun too, like we did at the Funko Pop Hollywood flagship store recently! Cleaning up the workshop over the Thanksgiving holiday here in the States, but I should have more to post once I get back into the bodywork on the suit!

Tell us how you really feel, Matt ;-) LOL