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I had some downtime today so I got to finish up my scope mod. The number 1 thing I wanted out of this blaster was a cool scope. I wasn't sure if I could accomplish it, but some metal repro kits are on ebay for $80, so I figured even if I totally destroyed this scope, it wouldn't be too painful to replace. I managed to find the right size square security bit to remove the scope. I also took the little monocular from Tino apart and removed the included Quest screws to be swapped out with the more accurate ones. Step 1 was drilling out the nose. Pretty easily done since my drill bit collection had one of the right size. I drilled a bit farther into the scope than the front plate depth. Because that front plate was coming off. I wanted to have light shine through the scope, which meant drilling up at an angle from the front to meet the hole from the back. I didn't want to do that through the scope's nose and then rebuild the nose with putty later. It seemed like slicing off the front plate was easiest and best. That razor saw is coming in clutch for this build. This is the front side. I hollowed it out a LOT and opened up as large a porthole as the material allowed. And this is the back. There are no words for the sheer volume of resin dust covering my garage and every part of my being. It got EVERYWHERE. And it was not quick. Drill. Sand. Hollow. Drill. Blow. Sand. Drill. So very much work. But I got a pretty straight hole through the body, I didn't blow through any of the walls (though you can see light through part of the base) and I got the monocular elements to fit!! Rear element test fitted. This just looks so damn cool. I love the orange coated element. I got the reticle in place as well. It IS indeed right side up when installed, even though you really cannot make out the numbers with your eyes. The only way I could figure out which way was up was with the camera. "Completed" front. It still needs clean up, paint, and weathering of course. But I'm a proud trooper right now! The nose plate glued back on just fine. The gap isn't quite even all the way around. I'll probably clean that up with the dremel cut off wheel (very shallow cutting) before paint. Glue still drying on the rear element. The way light is projected out the front. SO dang cool. And no spending money on a replacement scope for me!

So here is the plan- I recently built a spare ANH E-11 from one of Bryan's crazy accurate 3D kits, (link here), but since I will need a blaster for my current ESB armor build I will eventually need a weapon, so I decided to convert it. In looking at the reference photos here, there are 2 main versions- one using an actual Sterling L2A3 and a resin type (Pugman). Note that there are also some really odd versions, but I am not sure of their background so I am not referencing them. Because I will be using the ANH version, mine will be a based on the Sterling. IMPORTANT! For those doing an ESB build, there are 2 versions of this blaster that can be used for approval. Neither has the Hengstler counter or power cylinders, and the differences can be found in the CRL here. This version is just more involved. Sterling L2A3 version Resin cast "Pugman" version (note scope rail) Materials: 1. JB Plastic Weld epoxy putty- When dry, this can be sanded, drilled and painted. AWESOME stuff! 2. Bondo Glazing/spot putty*** (for a smoother finish). 3. Sandpaper (various grits- 80 to 400) 4. Needle files 5. Dremel type rotary tool 6. Sanding drums 1. 2. 4. 5. 6. *** Please be aware that this product should only be used outdoors or in a well ventilated area. It is also highly suggested that you use a mask and gloves. All that being said, time to get down to business. In addition to the greeblies, there are a few issues on the main body that will need to be addressed: The first thing to do is grind off the end muzzle disc, as most of the references do not show one present. After removing the disc, I filled the holes where the screws were with the Plastic Weld putty (sorry, I lost the pics of the filled part), let it dry 4-5 hours and then filed/sanded it down. A thin coat of the glazing putty made it perfectly smooth. Note that I put the new holes in the top/bottom as opposed to the sides. Before References After grinding Finished After removing the D-ring/mounting plate**, some glazing putty, sanding and paint made for a smooth finish. **You may be able to pop it off with some pliers, but I had to grind mine down. The only other alteration I made to the body was to remove the small tubular part that holds the grub screw on the side of the magazine well. After Dremeling (is that even a word? lol) it off level and filling the hole with the Plastic weld, it was sanded and painted. Before References Detail- (This is from my ROTJ build, but it gives you an idea of what to remove. Keep the triangle part. Finished Next up, the greeblies... stay tuned

First snaps finally getting glued in place! e6000 in place and let the clamps at it. (They were hungry) am I doing this right?

Definitely! The stock seems lightly attached to the main body on the QD. It's got... This nose attachment, another small one about halfway up the barrel, and... The rear attachment. Looks very simple to cut free TBH. I just gotta psyche myself up for it. In doing research I found this older thread: showing the attachment method that the real Sterlings used - a hollow tube on which the stock rotated and the pins went into. I may try to replicate that. I picked up some hardware at Ace yesterday with the correct diameter for the metal stock. I also did a bit more to the blaster. The included D clip wasn't quite right and it rattled a lot. I've had this X-acto razor saw for something like 5 years and never opened or used it. Well, it was the night. And holy crap how did I wait this long? It's impressive. The cuts it makes are super super thin. Very little material is lost at all. And it's very quick. I think this razor saw will be just the thing to remove the resin stock. And if I can't get a good fit with the metal one, it should glue back on with very little visible change. I snipped the new D clip to the right size, gave it a bit of hidden electrical tape wrapping inside the housing to keep it from rattling, and glued things back in place. I also popped the rail off and found THESE. Square security screws holding the scope in place. Time to dig around the toolbox and see how good I've been at hoarding security bits.

Very good progress, Adam. Glad to see it worked and you are happy with the result. Sorry for being late with that tip, but spade drill bits are ideal for hollowing resin scopes because these create 'flakes' instead of fine dust and do the job pretty fast. Maybe it still helps future builders... Can't wait for your next update.

Looking good Alex. Make sure you sand off any of the sharp corners on those cover strips. just a touch so they cant catch or damage anything. The one at the bottom of the shin can damage your boot from rubbing,

Late to this party but welcome aboard Phillip. Looks like you are going with all the bells and whistles, nice work so far, keep it up.

Congratulations Ben, well deserved. Welcome to Expert Infantry!

Congrats Ben. Well done and welcome to the ranks.

Finished with the resizing and front cover strips on the calves. This was a hard step. As I mentioned earlier I had to cut an inch off the bottom, then trim a bit on the rear seam to have it sit more flush. Originally when I did the shin cover strips, I just did a single, external strip just like my arms. When I went to try it on, the shin seam immediately split. I have relatively muscular/wide calves, so I need to pull the back open a large amount to fit it. I added an internal cover strip, and all seems well now. Ive taken then both on and off a number of times. I still need to get more snaps to work on connecting the torso pieces, so I guess next up I will work on the thighs. I am positive they will need resized as well.

On the latest parts I did just that and sanded the material which gave a much stronger bond. Regarding the welded parts, I'll keep everyone updated to the performance in the form of a video of me in tears or trooping with a smile depending if it breaks lol

You guys rock. I will make the trims and will retry the one button. I still want to shoot for Centurion.

I just received a message from Denix, with an image showing possible items to be made by them in the future. And there is ... a Sterling (and a few other interesting things ;)). It is a C1 Sterling though, so I wrote them a long message explaining the differences between Mk4 L2A3 and C1, both from military point of view, as well as Star Wars point of view, and I attached a few representative images for them to understand better. And in the end I told them they should make both the Mk and C1, because Star Wars fans as well as military and gun replica collectors and enthusiasts will buy both versions.

Finally done with all the rough trimming and man my arm is sore. That was a lot of plastic to trim. I went from a big box of plastic to a big box of plastic and lots of scraps. Things are roughly trimmed to make sure I didn't cut too much since I'm really new on how all this is going together. I do have to say that the ABS Walt uses seem to be springier and more flexible than my MTK ANH kit, which seems like a good thing, but did require more effort in trimming. First part of assembly will probably be shoulder bells since that seems the easiest thing to do. And I'll probably start printing a Heavy F-11D.

Photos recovered: