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Santa hid a beautiful hunk of resin under the tree this year for me. I thought I'd do a build thread for this thing... whatever I end up doing to it. This is the blaster in it's stock gorgeous state from Quest Design Canada. It's just lovely. And that loveliness is the reason I'm a bit hesitant to hack it up. I mean, I will, but it's just so pretty out of the box. I asked for mine to be shipped as unbuilt as possible and Quest wasn't too happy about that request, but agreed to have the counter and rear cap not installed. Don't get me wrong, Quest Design was very nice to deal with, but they really didn't want to ship anything but a completed blaster. And complete it is. I'll detail how many of the parts on this are NOT resin using my patented Magnet Technique (tm). Metal grip screw 3 metal screws on the front scope (I don't believe the tiniest front screws are metal). And, of course, the included aluminum scope rail. Metal trigger guard. The screws holding it in place are also metal. The tiny screw behind the power cyls is metal. And there's a screw holding the aluminum rail in place. Did I mention the aluminum rail and the nice mount for the counter? So awesome. And here's all the goodies I have to upgrade this unsuspecting blaster with. To my knowledge, this is the last kit that @T-Jay had in stock. I received it late November and am still overjoyed to have it. SO. Many. Parts!!! Red lens monocular to hack up and install in the scope. Hollowed out Hengstler counter! A plethora of micro screws and nuts. Single LED for scale. The larger screws and goodies. And a set of greeblies from @justjoseph63 Now I just have to figure out what I want to change and what I'm happy with. The scope and counter are certainly getting some luv. The screws at the barrel front are also easy marks. Probably the grip lock screw as well. And I need to print that spring forming tool. If anyone has hacked up one of these, I'd love some suggestions.

Thanks guys, I took a few days to think about the mechanical changes I made with my shoulder re-strapping - had a watershed moment this afternoon and realised my current problem was due to the way I redid my new shoulder straps which induced an unexpected lateral shift - quick amendment today rectified my problem. Will pop my solution into this post and link to my my build thread in next couple of days. Thanks for your input - all this info goes towards making a build easier for future troopers

Hi everyone,Just wanted to wish you all a Happy New Year and introduce myself as a new member! I say new, but I originally joined about 20 years ago, when I first decided to follow my dream of being a trooper.I attended an event as an observer, and did buy a suit, but sadly had to sell it shortly after, to pay for other things. I never gave up on the idea though, and actually kept the fabric neck seal I bought then all this time, hoping I would get there some day! Think I still have the voice board I bought in the loft somewhere too!So anyway, watching the Mandalorian has reignited my desire, and after after a couple of pretty difficult years on the work front (I'm a Paramedic) & life generally, I've decided it's time to give it a other go. So here I am! Hoping to speak to, and maybe meet some of you in the near future! And thanks in advance for any advice along the way.Damien

So, I tried repainting the old pieces and I think they came out better. Thank you for all this great help! I had a bit of a knee injury after repainting, so once I can walk again, I’ll post pics. The blue acrylic was really hard to get off. I used some paint thinner and mineral oil. No rubbing alcohol as yet. I have 91% lying around from my computer clean up work.

Hello and Happy New Year! Welcome to the FISD forum.

I personally prefer the squared off end, (see references above), but either is fine. It's all a matter of preference, and as long as it doesn't extend beyond the trap line (for ANH ESB) It's all good!

Quest Design makes IMO the best pre-built blaster out there. Lots of great details, but Tino's kit will bring it t the next level! By the way, I purchased a lot of Tino's stock and will be offering up the finishing kits at some point in the near future. I think one of the reasons they probably don't like to sell their product unassembled is that someone could re-cast the various parts. A few things I would suggest: 1. Make sure the Hengstler counter is in the "ideal" position. 2. It's not a big deal by any means, but the Philips head screws could be replaced with V-head screws and then the tops filled in as there were no screws on the trigger mount area. Side note: Philips head screws weren't used on TK blasters until ROTJ. 3. Assuming you will be making your own "fuses" for the center with Tino's kit, be extra careful when removing (grinding out) the ones that are cast into the present one, as well as the screws on the front of the power cylinders. My set up using Tino's kit Looking forward to seeing your progress, so take your time, ask lots of questions and I'm sure it will turn out spectacular!

Hi Sean and welcome, RS provide an excellent suit of armour. Look forward to your kitting up photos.

Welcome and congrats on the purchase!

Welcome to FISD, Sean!!!

Very nice indeed.

It has been a preference thing for a long time. Mine are cut vertically as per the reference images I used at the time. We use multiple frown paint references as an example, with the only stipulation being keep the paint off the gums, I see the brow trim as no different with so many references showing a few variations. As long as you don't cut it too short in length and it doesn't look good/right, then everything should be fine. Also note that the last image shared above is cut vertical and not angled and states perfect, so angle or straight you are good to go.

No doubt the DO's will chime in when they have time but just to add some images to this thread for others who may be interested, going on past EIB feedback the brow trim is angled cut following the trap. What also comes up quite a lot is the brow trim to stop before or at the end of the trap and not going any further. This is one of those items that we see all different examples of, cut angled, cut straight, stops at the edge of the trap, stops before. Here's just a few images from the DO's used references EIB suggested trimming by DO's Personally I prefer the angled cut at the end of the trap as it's a cleaner look

Welcome to FISD Sean, looking forward to seeing some photos of you kitted up when your RS arrives.

Hello and welcome to the forums, looking forward to seeing you kitted up. For anything else Stormtrooper you may need check out this thread

I agree that looks better but I was impatient and cut mine at a 90° angle and a little shorter since I believe I saw that most often.

I’ve always understood this to be a preference thing, since screen references show the brow trim ends angled and cut in all different ways. Interested to hear what the DOs say. Here’s what I did: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello and welcome!

Hello and welcome aboard trooper, good luck with the printing

Hello Damien, Welcome back and a Happy New Year!

Could you post an image of the front of the straps, a small angle to the strap positioning on the front can make a difference. When I set mine up I now use use a mannequin or if it's too cold in the shed just a small box to hold the chest and ab apart, clip the elastic straps on then you can work out where the straps will sit the best. Once happy with the positions add some painters tape around the front of the straps, remove, rough both surfaces then apply E6000 glue and clamps, then check positioning on the rear. j I also have the elastic loops further back on the shoulder elastic, around the tabs on the backplate which also helps to stop the shoulder straps rotating. If you notice in this image the elastic loops are around the plastic tabs on the backplate As Andrew mentioned at times you may need to use some heat but fortunately the way I've been doing them I've never needed too.

The main reason why the bridges tend to do this is because of the curve. They will always move to the location where that curve lies. Only way to change it is to either heat bend the bridge so it naturally falls to the position you want. I had/have the same issue, so I actually added some industrial Velcro to mine. It is low profile enough to allow the bridge to sit almost flush on the back plate and stopped it from sliding out to the side following the set curve of the plastic.