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Ya. Definitely a learning experience. This is my first large scale print and everything, minus small parts, was printed hollow to save resin. I'll have to look at my 3D files, but the walls are maybe 2 or 3 mm thick as suggested in 3D forums. As you can see from the small grey circles, I do put drain openings in. I guess they are not large enough to let the alcohol enter and rinse properly. The holes are anywhere from 2 to 4 mm diameter. I use an Elegoo Mercury Plus washing and curing station. The black resin is "Water Washable". This doesn't mean you are to rinse items in a sink and let it pour down the drain. That is super bad for environment. It basically means you don't have to use alcohol. To keep things simple, I used 99% alcohol for everything. I rinse items about 5 minutes for larger pieces. These are simple placed inside the curing machine tub, and there is a little spinner that creates a circular current that washes most of the resin away. You let part drain, then switch machine to curing mode. I couldn't find any info (even from Elegoo) about what cure times you should use. I only did about 5 minutes total. So, my takeaway: Create larger openings where able: For example; the magazine housing comes in two pieces. The main large box and a thin base plate (you can see it peeled away in the photo). For the next print I will create a large rectangular opening on the bottom of the magazine housing, leaving enough of a lip to attach the base plate. Anywhere I can't do this I will place the largest holes possible and accept that I have lots of filling to do. Rinse better: A person on a 3D forum says he uses a syringe filled with alcohol or water (when resin allows this) to pump cleaning fluid through the parts. Since the cure station tub holds dirty used alcohol (it is expensive...) after the initial "spin cycle" rinse I will fill another storage tub with water and let it soak and rinse in there. Same forums suggested that leaving parts soaking in 99% for too long can also cause damage to parts. Remove internal supports when able: On same forum someone suggested not using internal supports if able. The supports and structure cure at different rates, causing the warping and cracking. They may also prevent rinsing fluid from circulating properly. Make sidewalls thicker: Helps beef up structure and reduce warping. Elegoo comment to a forum question was 4mm. Downside is more resin is used, but it is better than wasting a big print. Research cure times: For some reason, I think leaving a piece in the UV machine for 10 minutes will cause it to burst into flames LOL If I can swing the time this weekend I will try and reprint. I won't get blaster done by Empire day next week, but it may get done by the time we move in middle of June. Stay tuned all!!!

So with May the Fourth just around the corner, I plan on trooping outside of my parents restaurant. Wish me luck guys

Oh horror of horrors!!! My SE-14 is slowly exploding Last night I finally managed to sand everything, wash and dry and was assembling. I noticed that the front of the main grip felt a little soft, but didn't think anything of it. Then this morning: And my magazine housing did the same slightly. I read up on line that this is most likely due to uncured resin trapped inside. It may take a while for it to expand etc, and can cause this. So the magazine wasn't to bad, but split along one corner. I decided to rinse it out with water through the small gap. I came back a few minutes later and it was much worse!!!: I felt the support sprues that were left inside and they were still soft and pliable. So basically uncured. It's weird as the parts have been sitting for weeks. Either I didn't rinse properly and /or didn't cure the parts enough. I think that I may have reactivated the resin somehow as I rinsed today. I then noticed that the back end cap on main body has started to split. I felt the knurling and where it was rock hard before it is soft and squishy around the entire circumference: I'm now waiting for the entire thing to blow up. Hopefully not. I hope the main body doesn't go as it is basically sanded and ready to prime. This might have been a colossal waste of resin and time. Unfortunately I won't have time to reprint everything before the big move.

Hi folks, Just a couple of update photos coming up. Blaster with DoopyDoos scope and Hengstler. A little weight comparison between this JMC E-11 and the DoopyDoos. Humbrol Brass 54 for the scope, with the sides of rear feet masked Humbrol 33 Matt Black applied Light weathering to scope and front end of Hengstler counter (by gently rubbing with a file and / or sandpaper Resin t-tracks heated in a pot of boiling water, then shaped into barrel holes. * note - I wasn’t paying attention and mounted the top-middle track too long - I didn’t reserve the final hole for the scope rail to sit into. I realised this around an hour after spray painting. Thankfully, it was easy to reshape and re attach to the blaster. Matt Black 33 applied to the tracks and also a light coat over the Hammered black to reduce the shine/gloss. Note - one hole too long (below photo);

Hello there! My name is Xus Kenobi, and I'm from Madrid, Spain. Long story short, I've had my ATA armor kit for a really long time and I have worked on it on and off since I got it, which means I worked on it for a month or two and then put it in the closet for a year or two for several reasons before coming back to it. I recently picked the project up again thanks to an armor party held in my area and realised I'm not that far from completing my suit, so I'm determined to finish it off once and for all! I'll use this thread to show my progress and use this first post to keep a record of my gear and accesories for reference. TROOPER STATS: Height: 1.83 m · 6 ft Weight: 92.3 kg · 203.5 lb GEAR AND ACCESORIES LIST Helmet: ATA Armor: ATA Undersuit: Decathlon · Two piece undersuit Boots: Corsairs Kids Gloves: Corsairs Kids · Rubber chemical gloves Strapping: Appropriately coloured elastic and non-elastic webbing with double snaps Blaster: Holster: Neck seal: Corsairs Kids Canvas Belt: Corsairs Kids My main goal is to complete my build and get my suit approved by the 501st, although I am trying to keep in mind Centurion rank requirements so I can request said status without having to undergo major modifications, so I would greatly appreciate it if you guys could keep this in mind when helping me out with my build! Thanks in advance for your help and let's hope I can keep my motivation and finish this project in the upcoming months!

TD done Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Ok, let's get cracking! First of all I'm going to work on the torso section since it's the largest part and it's tricky to get right. As you can see, it's almost completely assembled and pre-fitted in order to figure out how the strapping goes. Once the whole thing is completed I will fine tune the fitting to make sure everything falls where it's supposed to. Inside view of the torso with all the straps and double snaps (Some straps are cut long in order to cut them to size when I do my final fit): Right now it looks quite nice, but as soon as you take a closer look you can see many areas that need a little tweak to make them look accurate: As you can see, the front looks pretty good, I took great care into making the chest align properly to the ab section (since I'm tall, I need it to sit right at the very edge of the vertical ridge that comes upwards from the button plate). Also the shoulder straps were fitted by fellow troopers from Spanish Garrison to make them sit properly aligned with the neck trim. The back and butt plate need some fitting so they don't overlap with the kidney plate. The back will need to come upwards (combination of making the elastic shoulder straps shorter and the back-kidney connection a little longer). The butt plate will need to come down by also combining some tweaking of the kidney-butt straps and the cod strap. Regarding the sides, y main concern is the seam on the sides since they open a bit at the bottom, specially on the right side where I used elastic strapping. I will replace the elastic strapping with a non elastic version to keep both sides close together and then hope the canvas belt helps me get everything in place! So my first goal is to get all of these pieces properly fitted and get the core of the armor finished before moving on to the belt and the arms!

Haha. Maybe just a little.... here and there. ;-)

Welcome back Garrett! No rush sir, work on it when you can and we will be here for you.

Sorry for dropping off the radar recently. Life got in the way but I’m still planning on finishing my armor. Currently cutting cover strips for my forearms and doing some research on how to mount the hand guards to my gloves. From what I’ve seen, is the correct width 15mm for the cover strips?

If I elect to use the PTT I just run it down the sleeve into my glove

Some choose to leave some return edge, some remove all, I have thin arms so the extra return helps hold them in place and not wobble. Here is a great thread on return edges

Biceps. For me the more return edge I had I noticed it was more uncomfortable. My new build has very slightly any return edge on biceps and its way more cozy to wear.

You did? Hue...never noticed that. (I’m sooo funny)

I am glad to hear your words Aaron, and pleased that you continue to work on this project in these crazy times. Your build is coming along very nicley and I am certain, it wont be long that you become 501st approved. I also hope that you will strive for our higher levels of accuracy Expert Infantry and then Centurion, you are already showing the hallmarks of determination and a clean and beautiful build so the glory is there for the taking. Keep up the great work sir.

Meanwhile... New (standard size) back and butt pieces arrived today. Already trimmed and poppers being glued. Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I just want to take a minute here to express my appreciation. I started this build over a year ago, right before covid shut everything down. When I have the time to work on it, it's been a great project to help take my mind off all the craziness. I'm really thankful for the support and help everyone here has provided. This is a great community here and I'm really excited to become part of it. (hopefully very soon lol). Thanks again everyone. Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

TK-99237 approved! Second 501st approved kit!

Yeah that wording still confuses me. I went with the 1/2" diameter circle for the template. I don't know if my buttons are just bigger than the ones used on screen but the 7/16" was way too small. Even after I removed the tape and cleaned up the paint a little bit it still seemed like the painted area was too small. Also it was still pretty messy. So I just went back over it by hand without a template and I think it looks pretty good. Not perfect but pretty good?

And it’s DONE!! Yay! :-) This has been a bit of a grind at times, however, I’m really pleased with the final result. :-)

If a picture paints 1,000 words then this photo review of @Hellhounds' rubber E-11 blaster will be an EU-expanse worth of information for any Trooper seeking a product comparable to the old Hyperfirms and the newer Praetorian blasters. The inspiration for this thread came from the fantastic comparison (thread) of a Hyperfirm (HFx) B-Grade rubber blaster verses that from Praetorian Blasters (PB), by @kman. In fact, the angles of my photographs are intended to replicate those used by kman, to provide the opportunity for close comparison of the three models. Essentially, these two threads should compliment each other. The Hellhounds Props (HHP) E-11s (among other blasters) are new as of October, 2019, and are currently available from Daniel directly, as well as from @TK-4510 on Trooperbay. As I understand it, this purchase is from the first run of a dozen blasters, and thus far there appear to be no user photos of these Hellhounds rubber E-11s on FISD. Daniel from HHP currently has threads mentioning his E-11 product here and here. Regarding Rubber Blasters For those of you unaware, these "rubber" blasters are actually constructed of a combination of foam and rubber, and may have some form of armature (solid framework) serving as the skeleton. The benefits of rubber blasters are primarily weight, durability, and safety. These rubbers are heavier than standard Hasbro and Rubies conversions, as well as most resin builds—providing a slightly more realistic helf—while still remaining light enough for hours of trooping. Fully metal E-11s can start to feel really heavy really quickly. As you'll see below, the HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz, or 2.19 lbs. Rubber blasters are also less likely to break if dropped, and if a component does come off, it will likely just need to be re-adhered, rather than reconstructed (resin or plastic may have cracked or shattered). Finally, rubbers are safer when trooping in close proximity to children who may wander outside the line-of-sight of a Trooper with a bucket on. A swing and impact of a rubber E-11 is less likely to injure innocent bystanders. The most obvious disadvantage of rubber props is that they are generally not as detailed and refined as their resin counterparts, but advancements in molding techniques are changing that. Now, to be clear, I am in no way associated with or being compensated by Hellhounds or any other blaster maker for this review; I am simply seeking to provide Troopers with data on a new product. Note, too, that throughout this post I will link to parts of the official FISD E-11 Blaster Reference thread (here is the Rogue One Reference), to provide additional insight and imagery. So, without further ado, open kman's thread below, split-screen your device, and feast your eyes on three types of rubber E-11s from this (US) side of the pond! NOTE: The images below may not appear as clear/crisp as they do at full resolution since the FISD/browser display compression isn't great. Clicking each photo will open a full-scale version which should present better clarity, at least in a web browser. HHP TOP DETAIL VIEW The Hellhounds Props (HHP) magazine appears to be closer in length to a Praetorian Blaster (PB), rather than the notoriously-shortened Hyperfirm (HFx). HHP appears to be just a hair shorter than PB, but I've also seen longer magazines on some images posted by Daniel on social media. Perhaps HHP magazine length is still being fine-tuned, but I may try to see if I can acquire a longer one. Additional, note that the HHP Hengstler counter includes the two soldering pins, while the PB and HFx do not. Finally, there is a HFx-quality seam on the HHP between the rail and top T-track, but the HHP T-tracks' quality and installation into the venting holes matches those of PB. HHP TOP VIEW Immediately obvious from this view is that the HHP has a static (non-movable) aluminum D-ring installed, similar to that from PB, but the PB version is rubber cast directly to the end cap. This HHP is similar to HFx in that it does not have a faux recoil spring behind the charging handle and bolt, like that provided by PB. Notice a slight tinge of brass on the scope, and a pretty minimal and clean seam line on top (much like PB). HHP FRONT VIEW This is where further distinctions are easily identifiable between the three blasters. In general, the HHP has cleaner lines than a B-Grade HFx, but PB comes out on top with the crispest lines and no visible seams. One of the HHP front scews is excellently made (PB quality level), and the other is adequate. The front sight is also correctly thin, matching that of PB and differing from HFx's thick block, and the HHP barrel bore dept on the HHP is 0.5" (1.27 cm). Note that, with blaster in-hand, the tip of the HHP appears cleaner than this close-up photo presents. Macro photography tends to reveal blemishes which would otherwise be indistinguishable to the naked eye from normal real-life use distances. HHP BACK VIEW As previously mentioned, the HHP includes an aluminum D-ring (woohoo level 3), while the PB included a molded rubber one, and HFx none at all. Once again, PB came out ahead with the most detailed knurling on the rear sight, followed by HHP, with HFx at the bottom of the pile. The rear end of the scope appears to be of similar quality on all three E-11s, and notice the more visible brass color on the rim of the scope (also present on the front, seen later). HHP RIGHT SIDE Stormtroopers and Femtroopers, I present to you, a METAL SCOPE RAIL, with open space underneath! You read that right. HHP finally provides us with an OT E-11 without a solid rubber rail, which was and still is the standard with HFx and PB. This was actually one of the two major factors in my decision to go with HHP (price was the other). Of course, doing so sacrifices the recoil spring and the clearing strip and extractor detail on the ejection port. Make note, too, that this HHP scope does not have the round knob on the right side. HHP LEFT SIDE An iconic angle of the E-11. The trigger guard appears to be of similar thickness to than on an HFx, which may be just a hair thicker than a PB. The guard feels very sturdy and I'd have no concerns holding my index finger on it during a long troop. The trigger itself is cut out in the same fashion as an HFx, with more open space below and behind it than that provided on a PB, and the HHP trigger feels a bit flexible, which leads me to believe it is cast in solid rubber. Additionally, aluminum appearance is present beneath the selector switch on the HHP, a detail left out by HFx but included by PB. HHP BACK QUARTER VIEW This perspective highlights the metal scope rail, though take note that the rail is thicker than it appears in this image (due to camera lighting). I spoke with HHP about the strength of the rail prior to purchasing, and Daniel assured me that it is solid—which I agree with. That scope isn't going anywhere, and I do not foresee any sag in the long-term. Notice the screw head on the underside of the rail, which secures the scope (a second is obscured from view by the counter). Additionally, this angle, once again, shows the magazine length, which is significantly longer than the HFx but perhaps just a hair shorter than the PB. And finally, two notes regarding the rear sight area. First, the horizontal retaining pin area has been molded as a recessed space on the HHP, as opposed to raised and textured (faux) pin on both the HFx and PB. Second, though not easily discernible in any of these images, there is a locking notch band at the end of the receiver tube on the HHP. HHP BOTTOM VIEW Another major differing point of this HHP blaster with PB (unsure of HFx), is that Hellhounds hollowed-out and split the arms (wishbone) of the folding stock. On the Praetorian the two arms are actually a solid piece molded with and surrounding the trigger guard. The second photo below shows this up-close. AWESOME! The only other distinguishing feature from this angle is the length of the magazine, and the already-discussed aluminum appearance beneath the selector switch. HHP EXTRA VIEW This angle shows several features which are missing from the HHP blaster but were included by PB and HFx. The ejector knob is missing on the HHP, as are some greeblies on the magazine which are present on the PB (but also not included on the shortened HFx mag). These omissions, and perhaps also some missing details on the front and rear of the power cylinders are perhaps the greatest shortcomings of this Hellhounds blaster. It's possible that the ejector knob fell off in-transit, so I will be reaching out to Daniel to inquire about a replacement/addition. On the plus side, the casting of the Hengstler counter appears very nice. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at @Hellhounds and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. In the meantime, he is planning on sending me those individual pieces to add on to my baster. HHP ADDITIONAL ANGLES The images from this point on are all from new angles not included on kman's Hyperfirm vs. Praetorian thread. They are intended to highlight the fine detailing present on these Hellhounds blasters, and will so provide a better view of the of the differences in the three rubber E-11 blasters. These first two images provide alternate angles of the mag well area, showing the lack of the ejector knob. The two soldering pins on the Hengstler counter are also visible. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. Notice the detailed inscriptions and oval inlay on the bottom of the magazine well, shown below. Very nice, as is the texture on the magazine itself. The two images below highlight the T-tracks, venting holes and folding stock. As previously mentioned, the T-tracks are smooth and straight. While I am not certain that the original Sterlings had such a texture on the stock metal, I definitely like the presence of the it as it adds to the weathering and could even be considered to be carbon scoring. "You boys have seen a lot of action..." The image below shows a close-up profile view of the muzzle screw, front sight, flash guard, and folding stock butt. Notice that, in the same fashion implemented by HFx and PB, and clearly for the purpose of providing structural support, the front sight is not hollowed out on the HHP. The two images below are intended to highlight the charging handle, ejection port and guard, and texture on the folding stock and grip. Note that, as already established, there is no recoil spring, clearing strip, and extractor on the HHP. However, the grip detail is fantastic. Additionally, other than the rubber trigger, the grip is the only other place on the blaster where flex can be found—on the smooth front and back. I suspect this may be intentional to provide comfort in-hand, and I like it. Below: End cap and D-ring from both sides. Also shows the end cap clip, scope rail, and rear sight again. The textured and inscription details on the back of the scope can be seen on the photos below. While there is some brass weathering, a little more would be nice. These two photos below highlight area around the front of the scope, showing the molded screws, metal rail, power cylinders, and the soldering pins on the Hengstler counter. Notice more brass color on the scope rim. The HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz (2.19 lbs or 0.99 kilos), comfortable for long troops. FINAL THOUGHTS By my assessment, the Hellhounds Props blaster situates itself right between the HFx Hyperfirm line and the Praetorian blaster. Overall the mold/seam lines are of better quality and more minimal than those on Hyperfirms, and approach or in some cases match those of Praetorian. A few details are missing on the Hellhounds, such as the recoil spring, magazine ejection knob, and greeblies on the magazine (EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch) and power cylinders, but conversely, HHP has included details not currently seen on OT blasters from Praetorian or Hyperfirm—a real metal scope rail and split arms on the folding stock! While this may not be the case forever, it is also worth noting that the Hellhounds E-11 is currently less costly than one from Praetorian. For me, this blaster was an EXCELLENT choice, and I would not hesitate purchasing from Hellhounds again. And there we have it. Hopefully this photo review can serve, in conjunction with kman's thread, as a valuable guide for any Trooper in the US considering purchasing a rubber E-11. Perhaps in the future I'll have the pleasure of owning more rubber blasters (DLT-19!) and be able to create additional comparison guides. I'd be happy to serve as a weaponry photographer/reviewer Amazon Vine Program style here on FISD. In case any of you missed the link near the top of this post, here is the FISD's official E-11 Reference Guide, followed by a Rogue One variant: Move along, move along... MV