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As Dan mentioned (depending on how detailed you want to get) replacing the power cylinders and adding in the central fuses would give you a really sharp looking weapon. I used Tino's finishing kit to "make" the fuses, and made the power cylinders and base from scratch. This is before I attached it to the magazine:

Mark, you have an AMAZING build thread going here! Very nice photography, great questions and SUPER feedback from the rest of the team. I really enjoy seeing these threads and pouring over them! So valuable to the new trooper. I'm learning so much and each one of them is just a little different. I've thought about why someone hasn't just made an instruction book or guide in how to do this, but fitting them to each human body is such a different challenge each time its done. It's truly a custom work of art each time! Keep up your fine work, sir, and best of luck in your completion. Now get back to work!

Hi [mention]gmrhodes13 [/mention] , Thanks for all the advice. I did put on the armor again but did not had someone around for taking pictures. Will do that next week. But took your advice with me. - The drop boxes are now straight, the reason was because the belt was not straight. Now it is. - i have lifted the thighs a little bit so it wouldn’t touch the sniper plate. But i think i will also add some foam to it. Maybe some “tactical foam”, i can also use this for the inside of the helmet. - i also resolved the shoulder bell issue, by using some white tape. Saw that as an advice on one of RS there video’s. Now there closer to the shoulder strap of the armor. Also the spacing issue is resolved this way because the alignment is the same on both arms. Thanks a lot again for the tips!! Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk

These are the final helmet photos I decided to upload that have minimal distortion. The proportions look better! I decided on adapting a "Captain" rank scheme because I earned the real rank in my former dental officer days with the USAF. I plan on replacing these tips with an UKswrath Electronics package. Shhh... Don't tell him. This photo below shows all that is visible from my construction boo boo from the LocTite fiasco. It is relatively small and isn't really noticeable unless its pointed out or you know what you're looking for. That's all for now, fellow Troopers! Thanks to all of my new friends who have supported me here at FISD. You've all been helpful! Bryan

I mentioned on one of the other post, that I added white gaffer tape on the inside of the center box across into the inside front of the thigh. I did this as an homage to the costume crew from the original movies who’s go to was white gaff tape to fix everything. It has been there on my thigh for 6 years and worked without fail. It allows a tiny amount of movement but stops the ammo belt from raising or dropping past a few mm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For discussion of Phasma TFA / TLJ CRL only. Please keep this thread on topic TFA - https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TFA_captain_phasma TLJ - https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TFA_captain_phasma_TLJ

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I got this as a 3D kit from Premier Props, on Etsy. https://etsy.me/35O2nhi I'm actually modifying the scope rail and moving the Hengstler counter forwards to get it to look a little more compact. I could potentially extend the scope rail as well. Thanks again! Sent from my Imperial Communicator

Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH. Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/ Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As I know, these were only used in certain promo shots and not used in any of the films, but they are allowed for any level. ,

Thank you Arthur. Appreciate it brother.

Okay, @T-Jay, I think I figured it out. Moving the scope is possible, but tricky. As it is built, all of the bolts thread into the parts, securing them really well together. As it is assembled, you bolt the back two scope parts (glued to each other and I Bondo-filled and smoothed the gaps) to the scope rail, then you bolt the rail down, and then glue the front piece of the scope in to cover that rail bolt so it is hidden by the scope. To move the scope, I would need to break the glue on the front piece (not easy, but probably doable), in order to remove that bolt on the rail, the two bolts that go through that rail and the L-brackets to hold on the counter, and the one at the back that holds it to the rear sight. Then I can remove the scope bolts, and drill new holes for them, and touch up the glued area with spray paint. The problem arises when I move it, if the scope were re-mounted, there would be no way to bolt the Hengstler counter bolts that are under the scope. I figured, I can instead, thread the bolt into the rail from below, but drill the scope bolt holes bigger than the bolt's total diameter, and not put the scope on those bolts at first. Then, bolt the rail down, the Hengstler counter brackets, and then, use CA glue to fill the bolt holes in the scope, and slide it down onto the bolts, and glue the front scope piece down again which should secure it in place. This would be fairly permanent.

Many Congratulations Ardeshir

Looking great! Almost there Dennis!

Again

Congratulations Trooper. Welcome to the ranks of Centurion.

A recent Amazon purchase arrived today, so now I have something to read while I wait for the ABS paste to melt. Sent from my Imperial Communicator

As per advice given to me in the above posts, I made two new holes and to lower the holster a little to yield a 2.5cm gap. I've also used a rivet and snap combination to attach the holster, so I can remove it when/if needed (which also means I could use it on another TK build in the future and swap back, etc). Thanks to everyone who chimed in with advice!

Next query: it wouldn't be a TK build thread without a sniper plate question! Over the course of about 8 days I: trimmed and tidied the sniper plate; gave it a hot water bath to mildly bend the sides; glued the middle in place and waited a few days; glued the right side and waited a few days; then glued the left side and waited a few days; HOWEVER, upon glueing the left side, the sniper plate angled up a little and the bottom lifted a little from the greave. From the side it looks ok to me. A view of the inside from the top also shows the plate glued snugly to the greave, but looking up from the bottom now shows a large gap and glue that has lifted. So, should I remove and try to re-glue for a more snug fit, or does it look ok?

Hi Mark, A very well thought out build - kudos. :-) Regarding the strain on the shoulder bells - I wouldn’t worry too much. With well fitted parts, there’s not as much stress as you’d think. Especially as your arms are likely to be bent for a large proportion of your time as you’re likely to be holding a blaster. With your arms bent, the weight is reduced from the shoulders. Also, the arm parts are quite light so it’s really not that bad. I had nylon straps joining my chest to back on my old suit and it was fine. For my latest suit, I’m using white elastics like the originals and it’s also holding up perfectly. You’ll see the strapping here: Regarding the bicep to forearm, I like to follow the method used for the original suits - this allows the arms to align naturally, just like the original suits did. I wouldn’t recommend nylon as this will add MORE strain to the arms as nylon has no “give”. With elastic, all of the parts have a little wiggle room. Here a video I did on the subject of arm connections; There’s quite a few other handy TK videos on there so feel free to check them out. :-)

Leg day! I taped the shins and thighs together for an initial fit. Very happy to say I don't think I'll need any major modifications. The shins are snug around my calves (cycling calves), but still close at the back. It looks like the thighs and shins may be wide enough around the knees, but I appreciate any feedback if you think they need to be adjusted. Holding AB plate/chest and thighs by hand: Closer shot of shins and thighs: Close shot of shins:

I've been glueing snap plates to the chest plate and back plate over the last few days. I think they've turned out ok, but the test will come with fitting.

The weather has taken a turn so I'm adding an extra day to glue curing times on the inner strips to ensure a strong bond before glueing the cover strips, which all gives me time to sew! I've opted for elastic shin enclosures. I managed to find a heavy duty hook, which I've poked through the elastic and sewn on, then doubled that back and sewn over again - I heart redundancy. At this point I'm still debating how to glue these elastics inside the shins. Perhaps an ABS anchor that a lip of elastic wraps around, then glue the whole thing down...? Not sure. This all took about eight episodes of The Venture Bros yesterday.

Nice work, double snaps I love to see and great preventative measure adding some backing to your shoulder straps. In regards to the curve on the shoulder bell, although screen accurate some armor maker shoulder bells are quite narrow compared to the original armor so definitely do not trim a curve until you've actually fitted them to see how the sit. You basically want to be wearing your top half of the armor to really see how much room you have

Bicep glueing has begun! First up is internal strips for support, then final shaping before outer cover strips. I'm also making my sixth grade home economics teacher proud by sewing snaps to nylon for the shoulder bells strap. I've also been looking at the components that will bear the most weight. For the torso pieces, I'm making snap plates and reinforced shoulder elastics. The shoulder bridges have been reinforced with interior ABS splints and second ABS strip. Once the glue has dried, these will be sanded into shape. I have been involved in too many amateur theatre productions to know that wardrobe malfunctions are impossible to walk back. I AM VERY RISK AVERSE.

Some more reference for you, notice how the originals were trimmed with a curve rather than a straight cut on the sides, helps close the gap to the chest/back. original to the left Just som Trooper-glory to keep you going

Happy weekend! I'm after a little feedback on shoulder bells. I've sanded the first one to the trim line and it's looking very "screen worthy" in its imperfections. How does it look? Outside view: Inside view:

I made a bucket! I'm pretty chuffed with the result. I've embraced the idea that screen used armour was less than perfect and love the flaws I can see. I still need to tidy up a few rough tube stripes, but over all, STOKED. Of course, if there is anything glaringly obvious I have screwed up, all feedback welcome. Gonna move onto electronics now and see if I can fit those PLUS my head inside the thing. (The left ear appears to have swung a little backwards at the bottom. Don't know what that's about, but I may have to adjust it later down the line. The right one, though, *Italian kissy fingers*)

The tube stripes and vents worked well; much less cleaning up required than I expected. I may even leave the tube stripes a little haggard to give them a more authentic look. There was a little paint bleed here and there, so I'll clean them a little once all the paint has cured fully. Very happy with the results!

Assembly! I've painted the tear ducts/vents (?) and feel they've come up well. All feedback welcome. After a little persuasion from the heat gun, the Ukswrath HOVI mix tips sunk in nicely into the cavity. I put some Sugru on the thread, so they won't be moving any time soon. I also used Surge to install the frown mesh. I gotta say, those HOVI mix tips look awesome! Thanks again to @ukswrathfor his sterling work.

More progress today! I've gone with a mount system for my lenses. I want to maximise interior space as much as I can, so keeping the lens size down will help. Mounts made with ABS and ear screws. Lenses shaped, drilled and ready to install. Fitted lenses with a few washers made from ABS The final look! Theres a little gap above each eye for air flow as well.

I've done some tidying up to the vocoder and given it a second coat of paint. How does this look to folks?

Love BBB photos, looking good so far

I've begun slowly building my helmet so I can get each step right before final assembly and painting. So far I've sprayed the interior with Plasti Dip and fixed the helmet suspender clips. I'll then line it with black Neoprene foam and glue in velcro to hold the electronics. It's truly an act of Zen to tape up and spray these pieces. Next I'll clean up the eye holes and teeth, then begin positioning.

The first piece I built was the Thermal Detonator. After digging around the FISD, I found dimensions and details (Billgrams!), then followed Ukswrath's build advice. Here's the tube after taping and spraying. And here's the finished TD.