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As the Boy Scout motto says, "Be prepared". In most cases, if taken care of a well built set of armor should last a long, long time. Inspecting the various components before an event is suggested, but when the inevitable "Oh crap" moments occur having things at-the-ready can really help. Not just for you, but for a fellow trooper as well! The following is a list of suggested items to have with you for "wardrobe malfunctions" which happen to many of us during a troop. I'm not saying you have to have each and every item shown below, so the choices are yours for what to include. 1. Gaffer's ("gaffa") tape (white/2" (5 cm) wide: This is a heavy cotton cloth tape with great adhesive properties, and is widely used in theatre, film and television productions. Although strong, it can be torn by hand as needed, leaves little or no residue and will generally not damage most surfaces. If you look closely, it was used a LOT in the first SW films, and is a good temporary fix for cracks/splits. -- alternatively -- 2. Duct tape (white/2" (5 cm) wide: Everyone knows it has a powerful adhesive property and super strength, but it leaves behind a strong, sticky residue which can be difficult to remove, especially if left on for extended periods. Rubbing alcohol, Goo Gone or even cooking oil can remove it, but it is not easy so therefore is not suggested. In case you have a strapping issue (snaps pop out, strap disconnects from an armor piece, etc.) it's not a huge deal if you are prepared. Installing/setting snaps in the field is not always possible (unless you have a hammer/snap setting device) and can take time. Though temporary, a quicker alternative is to use nylon strapping (you probably have a few feet left over from your build) cut to length with Velcro (cut to size) in lieu of the snaps. 3. Black 2" (5 cm) wide nylon strapping 2' (60 cm) long: Black 1" (2.5 cm) wide nylon strapping 2' (60 cm) long. Industrial Strength Velcro *** (2" x 4" sections) *** Although very strong, it will a leave residue from the adhesive backing. This can be removed from your armor with Goo-Gone or a similar product. NOTE: If you want to be extra prepared, having lengths of other materials (nylon.elastic, white Velcro etc.) used in your build are encouraged. 4. CA (Super) Glue (Single use sizes) 5. Zip-Kicker I am not a fan of using CA glue on any armor part, but in an emergency it can certainly come in handy. If needed, I highly suggest using the GEL type, as it will not run like the regular type does. Available at most craft and "Dollar" stores. Zip Kicker is an accelerant that will set CA glue instantly. There are other name brands, but I used this one as an example. Available in a spray or aerosol. 6. Razor knife 7. Lexan scissors 8. Sanding sponge Having a sharp razor knife on hand will come in handy for many things, including cutting strapping, Velcro, etc. For safety, I recommend the folding type as seen below, and always have a new blade in it. Dull blades are useless. Be CAREFUL when cutting. As TKs, we are not known for our shooting accuracy, especially when missing our trigger finger. Lexan scissors are great for cutting/trimming ABS, especially if you need to cut shims for cracks/splits (see below). Do NOT use these to cut Industrial Strength Velcro. The adhesive will gum up the blades. A sanding sponge is perfect to have in case you need to smooth out any rough edges that may be cutting into you or snagging your under suit. Scrap ABS A piece of scrap ABS about 2" x 6" can be used to make emergency shims for cracks. Just cut it to the width/length needed and CA glue it to the inside of the affected area. 9. USB battery charger/power supply 10. Batteries Whether you use the rechargeable USB type or regular type for your fan system, etc. having a backup is always a good idea. 11. Screwdriver (multi-bit) 12. Small pliers Although these may only be needed for those with the "classic" strapping system, they can be used to tighten helmet screws and such. I have loaned mine to those with costumes from Lord Vader to Boba Fett on troops. It's better to "have em' and not need em' than need em' and not have em'". I have the "stubby" type screwdriver as seen below, as it takes up less room and all the bits are stored in the handle. 13. Lens de-fogger Even if using a good fan system in your bucket, you can still get fogged lenses. Not only is it annoying, it's dangerous, as our field of vision is not the best to begin with. You can purchase a product designed to prevent this, or (as I do) rub a bit of shaving cream (foam type) inside and polish it out before each troop. Your choice. 14. Magic Eraser 15. Paint pens For minor scuffs on shiny white armor the Magic erasers really do the trick. A single one will last a LONG time. Paint pens are a quick and easy fix for deeper scratches in your armor (white) or touch-ups on the ear bumps, etc. (black). I suggest the Acrylic type (not the oil based) paint as it can be more easily removed if/when needed. 16. Adhesive bandages It happens. Cuts, armor bite, blisters, etc. I suggest having a few of each in various sizes, especially as they don't take up much room. 17. Disinfecting wipes Let's face it. We wear compression suits and plastic so we sweat, and sweat can smell bad. To keep my bin from having the aroma of a gym locker I use these to wipe down my armor before putting it away after each use. Your fellow trooping mates (and the public) will thank you. 18: Cleaner/Polish No Matter how careful you are with your armor, you are going to get scratches or scuffs. It happens. One way of dealing with it is to use a product that cleans and shines all at one time. Although I have not used it (yet), this product has high reviews: Link and reviews here. Thank you to Greg @Oldracer for this tip! Now, there are a lot of other items that I have seen people carry.... electrical tape, a hammer, snap setting tool, safety pins, files, etc. It all depends on your particular needs and how much room you have, but most of the above items will fit together in a medium sized plastic container. Please feel free to add anything that you feel may help, and happy trooping!

Depends how thick the paint is there, you really don't want to see the old paint lines underneath, but if it's only thin I'd paint straight over the top.

Greetings All, I have gone as far as I can without consulting the braintrust ;-). A little background, I joined and started reading the forums in January 2018. Following a back injury 20 years ago (activity waned but hunger didn't) I successfully enlarged myself to over 350 pounds. I decided that I needed a significant goal to encourage me to fix this problem and redefine a lifestyle. After working with my doctor on a plan and setting my goal to add a ANH STUNT TK to my costume collection I have worked over a year to drop 112 pounds so far on the way to my final target. Now that I am within a range that armor can be made to work I started to customize for myself an AP kit that Mark prepared for me. (very happy with Mark at AP, he has been responsive and helpful) So, I have shimmed my thighs and kidney/abdomen assembly and have gotten to where I can actually start to wear the armor for fine tuning. This is where you folks come in. Q1: Thighs will sit about 1/2 inch higher once strapped to belt under torso but still leave a fair amount of black. I don't see any way to enlarge them further since they are resting right up to the bottom of my well rounded A$$ and so need some suggestions here. Should I trim the top of the back of the thighs to allow the front to move a little bit north? Q2: If I fasten the shoulder straps at even their most extreme length I end up with a gap at bottom of chest plate and back plate. Abdomen is fitting well and cod plate is as high as it is able to go. I have a long torso and shorter tree trunk thighs so this doesn't help the case. I am sure you will all see other things I haven't mentioned or may not realize yet so fire away troopers. Thanks!

There are different ears for Hero and Stunt versions. Hero 3 bumps, 2 screws, 1 top, 1 bottom. Stunt 4 bumps, 3 screws, 2 top, 2 bottom. You can find other differences on this spreadsheet https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

The approved post is old but it is kept updated as stuff changes. I can’t remember if the FOTK stuff is on there but there is a list somewhere. Also worth searching the forum generally for that maker name as I’m sure they’ve been brought up before.

Check the other thread of vetted Armor makers ( ). its the 3rd bullet point on ANH derived armor. ==> Very recommended source

Great list! Thanks for sharing! I usually bring a pre threaded needle in case any sew on Velcro or Snaps come loose.

There are plenty of examples of fitment here... https://www.facebook.com/Troopercoola/ Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

That's a good idea! Thanks! I'm probably also going to buy the foam piece from trooperbay

Exactly as Glen said. Fortunately, Anovos paint looks to be applied on the thin side with no ridges, so it's probably safe to just go right over it

With all my armour now assembled and trimmed I think it's time to get dirty Started weathering my Shocktrooper armour tonight and it's oddly satisfying. Using a black acrylic paint, rubbing it on with a rag, then removing any excess with a clean rag. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

After getting some great advice from fellow troopers I trimmed my 'Wookie sized to me sized. Pics of pre, during and after trimming. Also assembled my TD at the same time. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Have you thought of contacting RS Props for pricing of a new helmet then make a decision on price difference and the extra work to bring this one up to scratch?

Thank you very much!

Thank you and sounces like if I add a pill opening, that wouldn’t disqualify me from Centurion. I like the added realism that the recesses and openings give to the armor.

You are very welcome, Jonas! You can trim off all of the lower edge, which will allow it to sit a lot closer to the front of the calf.

So, today I finally finshed the biceps! I guess the arms are done now? Left bicep: And right bicep: It fits pretty well with the forearms! I guess I need some padding though. Anyway I have some questions: 1. Does cut up car sponges work as padding? 2. As I have started moving to the legs, I have removed the sniper knee plate. Do I need to cut it? It feels a little big for the top of the shin when not screwed on Maybe I should take away a bit of the bottom return edge of the plate? It's not so much room for glueing Should I maybe take away some of the covering strip at the top? 3. I have removed some coverstrip on the right thigh for and making it ready for the new ATA ammo belt The question is, how should I cut it? Thats all for today!

Might be considered to much of a spoiler and I don’t believe it’s been posted publicly as yet, so in this case best not to Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Almost done with the biceps! Go figure I didn't realise scissors were that much faster... Left one after trimming: I fixed the upper corners after taking these pictures And both, glueing on the covering strips: Hopefully I will get my package from ATA soon... I swear the postal services is out after me...

The forearms came out GREAT! The only issue I can see is that even with your arm slightly bent it looks like the "scoop" is looking as if it will end up cutting into you (red arrow). This can be safely opened up a bit like the right one is (if needed). For the thighs, remember that the cover strip should only go down as far as the top of the raised ridge. If you have a gap between the thigh ridge connection this should ideally be filled with ABS paste or a small piece of ABS can be glued behind it. You want to avoid this look: Fronts Backs Also, when you get to this part, the back edges of the thigh ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear.

Soon are the forearms complete, did the right one today Now I have glued on the first two covering strips for both arms Left: And right: Also my cloth belt finally arrived! Soon I can start with it!

Only just saw this, and thanks for mentioning my work! With my systems you get everythin needed to install the fans, with the exception to the powerbank [emoji6] Here's a pick of my TK system... The switch plate mounts to the hovi mic bolts for easy installation [emoji846]... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

One CENTURION AWARD is all u need !!! That’s all I need [emoji6]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey @Luke starwars, I’ve definitely kept up on some of the ongoing with the armors for FOTKs, even now years after release it seems there’s a very small supply of suppliers for it and there have been many who have run into challenges in providing the armor. This being said definitely check the approved vendors list. Specific to the FOTK from my experience: Of the vendors out there that I know is consistently proven to be most reliable Jimmiroquai is the one that seems to fit that. (That’s my armor by the way) It is fiberglass, so not what everyone always wants. There’s KB props that offers kits, however I’m not sure on how long it may take, most of those who have recently purchased from this vendor say 4 weeks. There are a few others who are emerging with kits however I’d recommend verifying them on the approved vendors list first as again a lot of struggles some members have had come from reasons as to why some are and some are not on that list.