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That’s an oversight, thanks for pointing it out The cut lines you have would work but I would suggest not making them untill you are finished and tried the whole kit out. Walking stairs looking like a toddler that just learned to walk is somewhat required of a Stormtrooper

Solid advice! Glad it worked out for you.

Trimming the return edge as you have illustrated should substantially help with movement.

Sounds like a plan, Simon. Regarding the power cylinders, here is a link to Andy's (PlayfulWolfCub) research thread. He went into this topic like no one else before. Not sure if you knew this PDF. Regarding the monocular, here is a link to 'Update #24' of my Lucky#Eleven build, how to best install the lenses AND the reticle lens. Maybe it is of any help.

Pretty much! Thanks. You did all the hard work in sourcing these parts, so I feel it's essential to use them! I think so far, I've just bailed on the selector switch and instead of putting the monocular into the sight, dismantled the monocular for its lenses. Since posting this morning, I've realised that my inner bolt is slightly off - so I've taken the diagonal strip off and I'm going to fashion that onto a second, rectangular block as you've done in your build. Just ordered a bit of 1.5mm aluminium so I can build the power cylinder plate in one, robust unit (using these plans) - seems easier than trying to sand out the original capacitors. Plus, I want to scratch build the missing mag clip too.

Luc, Thanks for making me waffle back and forth on this I'll do the Velcro for now, as the snaps will add quite a bit of build time. I'm itching to get approved and start trooping. Since I have a few other things to do, I figured I already had a workable strap system and would spend my limited time on something else. I was thinking about the consistent placement of Velcro and straps. This can be made easier with reference marks on the armor and straps. I'll see how it goes. My mods have been delayed slightly due to confirming hardware and family / life commitments. For the drop boxes, I wanted to be a little more screen accurate. From what I have seen the boxes are attached with a single elastic strap, not looped around the belt. Just a preference I suppose. keep the great help and info coming!

gmr to the rescue again! Ordering hardware and leather as soon as I can nail down details. I thought my list was complete... I'm going more towards functional with "some" screen accuracy. I have been going through wingnut65's (and others) builds, and the "What we know about strapping" post in Screen Replica section. Unfortunately, some of the hardware info is posted between several pages, with lots of back and forth. So, even though it should be simple to just make a list I'm finding it confusing. I've ordered the Mrnostripes bracket and strap system to replace some of the current Velcro and elastic. Waiting for it to arrive. I won't need to do as many (or any...) snaps in the armor. I'm still liking the elastic fabric with Velcro attachment that came with the SDS. It allows for some fine tuning in the fit. I'll probably make the straps shorter or add more Velcro inside the armor as the current ones are way to long. There is currently no fabric shoulder strap at all connecting chest and back. The SDS relies on the ABS shoulder strap velcro'd to chest and back to hold everything together. I'll probably keep it simple (no snaps...) and Velcro in a white elastic strap. Easy to replace if it stretches out over time. The bell to white shoulder strap attachment will be switched to Velcro instead of snap. What I have so far to order / source. Please let me know if this is right: Hardware Qty 7 Split rivets 7 brass washers on inside, unknown diameter 6 on kidney / ab plates, left side. These may be decorative on mine and not hold the side strapping on. one on cod piece, towards the rear 8mm head, 3.9mm shank, 9.2mm length Qty 6 Chicago screws 3 holding ABS belt to fabric belt. Not screen accurate as original were cap rivets, but like wingnuts idea of being bale to remove the ABS portion if required for cleaning fabric. 3 for the holster. 2 on the tan straps at top of holster, 1 on the holster weapon retention strap Unknown size of screws Qty 2 Double cap rivets. One person answered me in a post saying these were actually Single cap rivets... meh.... Hold thigh ammo belt to thigh 7.36mm head, 8.36mm tall, unknown length, but I think I read 8mm? Qty 2 Line 20 Snaps hold the belt to the ab armor. male on ab, female on belt 7/16”(11 mm) diameter cap, 3/16”(5 mm) long post Qty 7 Line 24 Snaps 4 male snaps will be attached with pop rivets to inside of belt for holster attachment (Hero build) Not screen accurate but easy to remove holster Female part attached to tan leather holster strips 2 male snaps on posterior tab 1 male snap on upper right of ab armor 9/16”(14 mm) diameter cap, 5/16”(8 mm) long post Qty 8 3/16" pop rivets 4 are used to secure the male portion of Line 24 snaps to the inside of the fabric belt. 4 for attaching the straps to the drop boxes and the belt. one on each end of the straps. Fabric Black elastic to hold thigh armour to inner belt 75mm wide will glue this down or Velcro to thigh. no need for snaps Top will be looped around belt Black elastic for bicep to forearm. 50mm wide will glue this down, or use Velcro. no need for snaps White elastic shoulder strap 45mm wide will glue down or Velcro. No need for snaps White elastic for drop boxes 25mm Riveted to boxes and belt Current SDS armor strap system. Simple and fairly functional: Note the thigh armor attaches to indicated strap instead of an inner belt suspension system: Posterior. No snaps Cod piece. No split rivet One of my dog's, Chester, watching me work...

PHOTOS: Every Merchandise Item (with Prices) https://wdwnt.com/2019/06/photos-every-merchandise-item-with-prices-from-first-order-cargo-in-star-wars-galaxys-edge/

Shoulder straps bridges on chest, ideally it's 1 large tab then 4 to 5 small tabs. Holster straps 3/4" in width

Great to see you back on it, mate! Sent from my DH77 using Tapatalk

I haven't started my build yet, but this was what was suggested to me by a builder in my Garrison. https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Superior/dp/B00006RSP1 I'm thinking of going for Centurion, so I wasn't sure if I'd use it.

Decided I wanted to paint the KB helmet pink, I just lightly sanded before painting so there are imperfections which are easy to fix if wanting to but as this is a "fun-helmet" I didn´t bother and figured it was battle-damage. Pretty happy with it and when/if I get my Anovos kit, I´m going to paint the whole kit pink. the "old one" that is Going to install mirrored lenses when they arrive.

Busy Saturday afternoon.... Decided to 3D model and print the sight block (again, I'll post these 3D bits to Thingiverse when I'm done) Installing the sight Magazine installed... Starting to look like something at last... Maybe it's the spring and inner gubbins next...

awesome

No, that's not how it works. You would only cut out the neckline of the chest plate if you was short. This allows the chest to sit lower and not dig into your neck. If you're tall, you will have no real adjustment between the armour parts, just over your shoulders so the gap would be bigger between your chest and back plate to allow your tall body to fit inside. I do all the fine trimming with a Dremel grinding stone then scrape off the swarf with a blade and finish with fine sand paper.

The left shin has a clip greeble and two boxes on the outside and using the CRL pic I eye-balled the locations, the clip greeble also rest in a little indention (on the ANOVOS armor anyway) and I wanted to give that a go - probably won`t make any difference but I like to have it Used the greeble to trace out the space and then used the dremmel and some sandpaper….was I worried about cutting to deep? naaah...that was my first thought, to cut all the way through and glue a backing piece and even the edges out with abs paste so just went for it. Not cutting all the way though. The two boxes are fixed just below and I shaped them to follow the contur of the armor and layed it in place to check against CRL. Works for me and I opted to simply weld them on, glued extra abs on the inside to ad the contact surface. Also marked them to avoid confusion. And welded on and I did some shaping with a hairdryer to get the clip to bend just a tad, abs pasted the boxes to be seamless as per CRL. Sanded and ready for paint. Some painted stuff

During fitting I noticed that I could sew the shoulder and elbow gasket together so removed the velcro as I also found out that i don`t need it and it`s crowed enough in the suit Then is was the matter of attatching it to the undersuit, used glue to facilitate placement and it worked out Finished pruduct - did someone say Lord Vader

What ever works man. Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk

Got a little side-tracked...was about to glue the sides but made the conclusion that it would be easier to sand the parts separately so I started with that. But they are now glued. Also decided to close the back using snaps so drilled some holes, made som strapping, set some snaps and I think it will work. And made the strapping for the cod