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Okay, guys... who didn't bother telling me that you could sew in the size 10 snaps with a machine??? Were you all keeping this little secret from me just to torture me??? I spent so much time sewing these in by hand, and only now (working on my 4th kit!) I figured out that I could have saved hours by using a simple zigzag machine stitch! *serious, massive facepalm here* And for those of you who didn't know this and are still building your kit, let me tell you, this is such a great shortcut to sewing in the snaps onto the elastics for the shoulder bells. Use a button foot on your machine and adjust your machine's stitch width to make sure that the needle won't hit anything. Set the feed to zero. Observe!

Wow, this is very exciting to know that my Build is going to look this GREAT with the DO's assistance. I am sorry I missed that detail, but excited to learn this Build has great eyes looking at it. I have made adjustments to the Frown. If needed more removed, please let me know!!!!! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Greetings John! Your review is still underway. Thank you for your patience while we go through it! You did a great job getting that frown taper down! Painting those little triangles can be a challenge for sure. That said, we've noticed that your Hero's frown needs some attention before we can proceed further. We don't want you thinking that you haven't done a great job on your kit- you really have! Sometimes when we are evaluating armor, we see more detail than what some GMLs notice, and small things can get overlooked from time to time. According to the CRL for Basic Level Approval, "Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area." It might be the angle of the photo, but it looks like some paint is going outside of the tooth line (outlined in green). To correct this, it's an easy cleanup fix with a brush and a little enamel thinner. Some use a wood toothpick to gently scrape off the excess paint. Choice is yours! Once you've made your corrections, please submit a new photo showing your frown's detail. At that time we can then resume the review. Thanks again for your cooperation and patience!

Use ABS for that, Andrew, BUT... as Tony suggested they could use a hot water bath to give them more of an arc first. If you decide to do that, bend the reinforcing strips to the same exact shape before attaching them underneath. If you don't, the reinforcing strip will straighten them back to their original shape. If you decide to paint or use Plasti-Dip inside your bucket, I would highly recommend the following: Sand the interior using 120 (or so) grit sand paper first and then clean it thoroughly. This will give whatever product you use something to better adhere to. The reason being is that if you decide to attach anything inside (fans, battery packs etc.) using Velcro it will not peel off the product nearly as easy when you want to move (or remove) it. If you decide to use Plasti-Dip (a rubber-like coating) it will smell awful for a day or two but will dissipate after that.

Never had them pull out after 7 years of trooping (using E6000) so I'd suggest it may be a bit of overkill

"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go." ---T.S. Eliot

Me neither. In my opinion this also goes for the snaps. Use good quality snaps, I personally use DOT or Fasnap, very high quality. I use the single snap method and I've never had a snap fail. I know some people use double so it's completely up to you.

Nice work, trooper! Keep the updates coming!

The wrists are just the right size to slip my hands through, and that's after I removed the return edges. I sent our GMLs pictures with the biceps lowered about a week ago - I haven't heard from either of them yet.

hey troopers just wanted to show off my new boots i got from imperial boots, at first i was scared they wouldn't fit, but once i got home and tried them on i was very happy with them, they were well made and feel very comfortable. unfortunately one of the sides, specifically the elastic, got a little dirty, but i don't have a problem with it since it'll be covered by the shins.

I just noticed this Trooper in a group photo in @Pyrates Hall of Fame thread and it caught my eye... Not sure who it is, and I realize that they are jumping (not an easy feat, I'm sure) but it just struck me as odd, especially with the placement of the DLT-19s underneath. Strange, but cool at the same time.

Shoulders and biceps progress.

"Seriously guys, can't make it out today. Got a bad case of the DLT's"

Yep, that's me! I knew that if I flipped my legs back hard that it would make me look like I was jumping higher than I really was. One of the 'outtakes' makes me look a little... let's say, uncomfortable.

Looks great! This was a tip I got from the model building guys when using stencils: After applying the stencil, first coat of paint should be whatever is in the background. This will seal the edges and any bleed through will be the same color. Then lightly apply the other paint. This tip also works for painting walls and using the blue painters tape.

As far as placement of the snaps, I am attaching some photos that might be of some help. Also, I HIGHLY recommend doubling up on the snaps because one will pop off from time to time. I even double up especially on the thigh snaps. Learned that the hard way when a thigh came unsnapped during a parade ...[emoji19] Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

Adding additional material to hold it down is completely up to you and no it will not have any bearing on any level of approval. That said, if you have enough material attached to the bell (I use at least 1-1/2") and allow the glue to cure completely you'll be fine.

I read it too and everything looks amazing. Oh wait there were no pics, sounds amazing? As for the shoulder bells. They are supposed to be as close to the bridges as possible. It looks right. People secure them in many different ways. Mine are glued to nylon straps and glued to the bridges. They aren’t removable. Some people use snaps so they are removable. It’s personal preference. As for the gap between the chest. That all depends on your armor and your body. If your broad chested you’ll push the chest out further which will make a gap or if your armor is general size and your bigger you’ll get the same look. There is a notch down the center of the bell I’d use that and just secure that to the center of the bridge. Hopefully some of all that makes sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im reading it

Not really, Harrison Ford is not considered ”mini” and he fit just fine in that armor, I’m 5’10 and 205 lbs and fit RS/TM/Anovos armor without shims or bigger coverstrips. So, there are ”sized up armor” out there but you don’t have to be ”mini” to get armor with screen lineage if that’s your preference