Leaderboard

Would you use it for the back? I´m going back and forth, having a hard time deciding Yeah this pic sure shows that as there´s no paint on the ear screws (and the helmet with no ears) Will be using that tip I think I´m going to experiment not using white primer and test "natural paint chipping" meaning dropping and scratching the helmet….atleast in my head that makes sence as there´s one less layer to go through to get to the "kakhi" and that the top-white chips easier without a primer underneath...well that´s my theory anyways

I cut mine with a soft wire cutter, while making minute cuts going in a circular direction. When I tried putting it in, and it did my quite fit, I just made more cuts in the spot that was having a hard time going in. The first one was a little difficult, but after it went in the second one was much easier.

Hello everyone! I didn't get the opportunity to post yesterday, but I've had a productive couple of mornings. While the glue was drying on the male snaps, I measured and created the remaining female snap straps I would need for the torso assembly. Then, after the glue had dried, I measured, drilled and installed the cod rivet. As aforementioned, I turned it into a male snap on the inside to connect to the posterior strap. And with that in place, I was able to do my first real fit of the torso assembly! Much to my relief, everything seemed to line up well and I was comfortable while wearing it. I think I'll sand down the inside return edges just a bit—unaltered, they're a little sharp. I do still have to install the tab and slot system on my right side—you'll notice the ab and kidney aren't yet flush with each other. Question about the thigh garter—in those photos, I am wearing my black belt comfortably around my waist, but you can see it from the side angles. Is this normal? Or should it be worn higher up on my stomach? Moving on, I started with the ammo belt. First, I scored and snapped it out. Then, after measuring and marking the centre of the canvas belt, I marked and trimmed the corners of the ammo belt at 45º. I also marked the points along the ammo belt that would be drilled for pop rivets. Then, using this image is a reference, I marked the points on the ab section for male snaps. However, I had read on a couple of threads that on AP suits the lefthand side snap (right side of the photo) should measure 40mm instead of 59mm. With this in mind, I drilled and installed the male snaps. Then, as others suggest, I traced the tips of the male snaps with a pencil and lined up the canvas belt in the proper position. Pressing on the male snaps left marks on the canvas belt where the female snaps would be installed. And with the female snaps installed, I was able to attach the canvas belt to the ab. Afterwards, I lined up the ammo belt over the canvas, followed the curve of the ab, and marked through the drill holes for rivets. I might have overthought this step a little—in hindsight, it probably would have been fine to lay the belt flat and rivet it that way. As it is, my ammo belt has a slight outward bend on the left side when laid flat, but not on the right side. I should have taken a picture. I don't think it's a big deal at all, though—when it's curved, it aligns just fine and there's no issue. And lastly, I cut, trimmed and sanded the rivet covers for the belt. I also tidied the paint on my ab button plates. These pieces have all been installed with e6000 and are now drying. I didn't have any clamps that could reach far enough, and magnets kept pulling the buttons out of position, so I end up just pressing them in with glue and leaving them as they are. From what I've read, that should be sufficient. We'll see tomorrow once it's dry. Fingers crossed! And that's it for now! Thanks in advance for your feedback and suggestions. :-D Talk soon!

Great stuff. :-)

The advantage is Pride in your costume to take it to the top. From your photo's you could apply. Lose the holster though. Your not allowed holsters. Keep that for just the fun troops. Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk

Ok, thank you. My friend and IMPERIAL brother Rietzer, who has recently obtained the Expert status, will send me the correct ones. Thanks Bro. When I perform the change I will upload the photos. Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk

This is awesome. Electronics is a huge blind spot for me and I've always wanted to learn. I did manage to make the fans myself but that's about the extent of my abilities. How many fans are you planning on using? I use the standard 2 fan setup (mounted at the edge of the frown and pointing up at the eyes) and I haven't (yet) found myself wishing I had more. There are at least a few guys in my garrison who don't use fans at all, which seems like madness.

I have the same boots on order! Not because I'm a masochist but because I couldn't find them small enough in white. I have high hopes for the Angelus paint. (And I'm also looking at the extra authenticity as a nice benefit). Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Looking forward to the progress. ROTJ stormtroopers had white sole boots so you may need to paint those.

Smokin’ HWT! Great weathering! Congrats and troop on!

I'll have to think about it. The boots are cheaper than the one's from IB. But they might be more expensive if you factor in the price for the paint or dye. IB might be the best option.

Congratulations! Great to see another HWT come in! So....... Where's your EIB thread Have fun out there!

Ooooiohhh HWT nice ! congratulations trooper !!!

I believe I once saw that a chapstick tube is nearly the perfect size for shaping them. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Try here for a resin one: ------------ Contact Fieldmarshal on this forum for a metal one. Hope this helps.

Basically you'll know were to sand just by the marks on your arms, if you do actually get any . It's not too hard to sand by hand, I use a Dremel which just saves some time. Always finish off sanding too with some finer grit sandpaper, gets rid of any sharp or rough areas.

Why thank you TheLorelei ^^ As for the tools getting bent, indeed this can come from a number of reasons. 1: Hammering to hard on a hard surface. I would recommend having a cutting mat on a table you are not afraid of scratching. Also, see to it that it´s sturdy. Now.. with sturdy, i am not meaning something " good enough " I am talking " you cannot move the table but by force " sturdy. Any and all vibrations while hammering will affect the quality of the holes or how straight it is. 2: Using the correct tool and size. Make sure you have the correct tool. In short, there are Pricking irons and there are Stitching Chisels. If you are trying to punch all the way through with a Pricking iron, you set yourself up for more work. 3: Quality VS Quantity. Quality cost, as with anything, but Tandy sells quite good items, so i am not concerned that you are ending up with an Asian replica that bends after three slams. However, make sure you keep the tool sharp, oiled and clean and never use it in an angle ( aka hammer it from the top, not an angle. If i can help in any leather related questions, anyone feel free to ask away =)

The parts for the M38 and the Hengstler are ready for print in ABS. The the large rear scope ring will be printed in this batch. And replaced later with a resin printer. But two things still prevent this. I need to finish the lettering. Haven't decided on which style yet. And I have to have a smalle course in the resin printers, before I can use them.