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Looks like you are on top of things, I rough up the area with sandpaper and glue strips of ABS behind the crack, sometimes using a heat gun to make sure the strip confirms properly. I have seen others use fibreglass and resin but be careful as it can heat up when curing.

This is a mini tutorial about the use of Neodymium ("rare earth") magnets. As you may have read here in different build threads, these little devils are invaluable when constructing a set of TK armor. BUT.. there are a few things to consider before purchasing and then using them... For purposes of this tutorial, I will be referring to magnets that are 7/8 inches (23mm) in diameter and 1/8 inch (4mm) thick, (as seen below) with a strength of N40. First, know that these things are STRONG! (Imagine a regular magnet the same size, but 10 times more powerful). This is a good thing for our purposes, but you should know a few quick facts first: 1. I mentioned that these are strong already, but know that the strength is such that they can (and will) jump up to 8 inches to reconnect with each other or another metal object. If your finger is between the magnets and this happens, it can cause injury, from bruising to serious cuts. They also can (and will) shatter if allowed to connect from a distance, and flying chips can cause eye injuries. In a word, be careful. I highly suggest wearing eye protection. That is up to you, but please read this post from Glen located below. 2. Due to the strong magnetic field, those with pacemakers or the like should take extra caution when handling these. 3. Whatever you do, keep these away from children. Now that I've scared you a bit, on with the show! When considering what size to buy for your build, I cannot recommend the 7/8 x 1/8 size enough. The reason being is that you will only need one on each side of the connection you are gluing, and they have a large surface area. Anything smaller (or thinner) and you run the risk of having to "double up" (stack) them to get the proper adhesion, and the thinner ones shatter more easily. When you receive them, they will have little plastic separators between each one. To get them apart, the easiest (and safest) way is to slide them. As you separate them, again, be sure to keep them as far apart as possible to prevent shattering or injury. (Save the plastic inserts). After separating them, I strongly recommend doing one of 2 things... 1. Wrapping each one in masking or painter's tape, (this will prevent them from scratching your armor) or 2. Making mini "sachets" for each one. The tape method is quick and easy, but the sachets are really handy if you have the time. To make them: Cut 4" (10cm) squares from a piece of fairly thick cloth, (not t-shirt type material) for as many magnets as you have. Place one magnet in each one**, and secure it with a zip-tie. (I used a rubber band for the photo, which will not work in real life). This gives you a "handle". NOTES: **Be SURE that you do half facing one direction out and half facing the other (north/south poles). Otherwise they won't adhere. Using a sachet will not prevent them from shattering. Cricket added a great example photo and tips in a post below. After you have applied the E-6000** to the seam you are gluing, place one magnet on the top of the cover strip, and carefully add one to the opposite side (inside). To keep the cover strip tight to the join along the entire length, I suggest placing magnets every 3-4 inches apart. If you see any areas where the cover strips are not flush with the armor, add more magnets. For the ends, you can use clamps as seen above. Be sure they have rubber or plastic on the ends, though. After the E-6000 has cured (usually 12-24 hours) it's time to remove the magnets! IMPORTANT! I have found the best way to remove them is this: First, remove the clamps. Then, using one hand, grasp the magnet on the top closest to the end. Using the other hand, SLIDE the one on the inside out, keeping them well apart. Stack them using the plastic separators they came with. Now, it's time to look at that perfect seam and think "Hey, I'm one step closer to approval"! NOTES: ** As the vast majority of TKs will tell you, E-6000 is really the best adhesive out there for armor. Unless you are an experienced builder, if you choose to use CA (super) glue, know that if it drips, you run the risk of it running onto your armor or causing the magnets/sachets to adhere to your seam. You have been warned. 1. There is no such thing as having "too many magnets". I know they are not cheap, but the more you have the more pieces you can glue at one time. I recommend having no less than 12. 2. There are many sources to purchase this size magnet, and the prices can run up to $3.00 each. But, you can find them on eBay most of the time for a lot less. This seller for instance offers them for $9.99 for six, which includes postage. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-Super-Strong-Neodymium-Rare-earth-Magnet-Disc-for-sale-7-8-dia-x-1-8-thick/281060567507?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Another good source is here: https://totalelement.com/products/3-4-x-1-8-inch-neodymium-rare-earth-disc-magnets-n52-8-pack Tim (PICTreed) found a great site that is a fantastic magnet source here: https://appliedmagnets.com/neodymium-disc-magnets-1-in-x-1-8-in-w-countersunk-hole-p-601.html 3. When you have completed your build, please consider "paying it forward" to someone in your Garrison/Squad who is starting their build by selling them your magnets at a reduced price. "Troopers helping Troopers"!

Name: Andy Lead ID: TK-30806 Forum name: Garrison: UKG Armour Maker: RWS Helmet: RWS (assembled by Ross himself) Belt/neck seal/holster: RWA Blaster: Imperial Warfighters Boots: Imperial Warfighters Gloves: Imperial Warfighters (latex, flexible) Electronics: TRamp system Height: 5’11” Weight: Age: 43

I backlit mine with a flashlight inside the bucket and used the camera with no flash from the outside Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

No worries about extra ABS, you'll have plenty once you start trimming out your kit when it arrives I wished I had reinforced mine initially, as after almost two years of trooping with my Anovos kit, I've added several pieces and repairs with ABS paste fixing those cracks Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

Looking good trooper Only comment I have is that you might want to take another photo of you helmet lenses because in the posted pictures the tint looks more gray than the required green IMHO. Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

Ok cool. I can sort that tomorrow hopefully. Cheers Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Congratulations

Made a start on the bigger kidney from rwa. Also some new screws for my TD Go for eib and possibly centurion ? Should fill those side gaps nicely Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Blaster (left, right and d-ring) Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

And after long pause here, I have good news! Here is my first troop! (but still without laser ax)

Tom Barry 85021 EIB A4 Andy http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/85021-eib.png

You can't go wrong following Tony's (ukswrath) build, Eric, especially if your are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion. I would highly recommend reinforcing the inside of some of the areas that are prone to cracking/splitting on the Anovos armor, especially in the areas seen in red below: A word of advice on strapping systems: The "strapping" kit that is included with the Anovos armor consists of Velcro. Using this to build the kit will work, but is really not all that practical for trooping in the long run. Pieces can fall off, and the Velcro will eventually wear out from repeated use. If you don't feel up to going with the "classic" (bracket) system that Tony used, I suggest using the nylon strapping method that most of us use. It costs a little more and takes more time to construct, but it is well worth it. I have a tutorial here that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/ If you haven't done so yet, you should sign up at the Florida Garrison boards, https://fl501st.com/. You are located in the Everglades Squad area, and there may be someone in that area that can help you out with your build on a local level, but always feel free to ask any questions here that you may have. Also, I recommend getting all of the items you will need for your build together before your kit arrives. It will make life easier not having to scramble around at the last minute, believe me. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/

Great find on those, Jeff! I am adding that seller to my magnet tutorial page: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/

Green stuff goes on like putty and dries hard and retains a quality much like resin. Do a search online. I put on a thin layer of green stuff all over but it certainly wasn't necessary. As for keeping your swpropman magazine in place; I would suggest magnets for it to stay in place with your hollowed magazine housing. It was already so challenging to get the catch working how I did but to get it to lock the magazine in place may very well be a challenge to big to achieve, but prove me wrong, by all means [emoji6] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Long over due update: Painting happened! I received these photos from my buddy today. They still need to cure for a few days so I will pick up the pieces on Sunday or so. Then onto greeblie gluing and strapping!

Paldron by Veeds, leather or pleather mp38/40 magazine holders (thanks for the link Joseph) Magnets for the "cricket shins" 'TM - slow boat from china finally got here

Mike @ Trooperbay does some nice, ANH “hand painted” style trap/tears templates. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct it doesn't have to be perfect. The key here is to shape the knee correctly then glue it to the shin in a way it doesn't dig into your knee cap later.

Good work so far! It looks like you could bring the sniper plate to be a bit more in line with the shin, though. I've stolen these images from Tony's outstanding build thread so you can see what I mean. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-build/?do=findComment&comment=412503

Adding the sniper knee to the left shin! Almost done! I removed all the return edge on the bottom of the knee plate and cleaned up the top and the sides. I then placed on the knee on and did my best to align the ridges on the knee with the shin. I figured I'll go ahead and glue/clamp in place and see how it turns out. E6000 can always be pulled apart and put back Just a bit too much E6000 And after letting it dry overnight The black mark on the sniper knee is from my dremmel getting away from me a bit (whoops). I think I need to bring the tops down more but I believe the placement is just right.

Just got my Gaskets, harness, and Neck Seal from Geeky Pinks and wow! I'm so glad everyone convinced me to do so. They are absolutely amazing in quality and comfort! @Soulartthank you so much for your service! I can't wait to get my armor and get going with this!

Alright how does that arm gap look now? I got the spacing between the bicep and forearm down to an inch Only did the left side to make sure it would work first

Hero Belt - Removable Holster w/ Snaps (HOWTO) As part of my effort to be able to avoid redundancy, I plan on swapping my holster between my hero and stunt belts. I would also like the option to swap out my E-11 holster for an SE-14R holster, or an imperial binder holder at some point in the future. I could just use the chicago screws I have been using, but I'm not a huge fan as 1.) they scratch up my kidney plate and 2.) they take time to remove and re-install. So, I present an alternative solution, using pop rivets and snaps to allow for easy removal while still staying screen accurate. Step 1: Using a 3/16" drill bit, manually drill out the center of a male snap fitting. I am using Tandy line 24 nickel plates snaps, but any snap of the correct size would probably do. Even though these snaps have a 3/16" center post, it is just a tad too small to allow a similar sized pop rivet through the hole. Step 2: Place your snap on the inside of the belt (facing armor) and push a 3/16" aluminum pop rivet through the opposite side: [I forgot to take a photo, oops!] Then, using a rivet gun, set the rivet inside the snap. Hold the snap and rivet tightly together as you start pulling the rivet through the gun - this ensures a nice snug fit with no gaps. The ball bearing may fall out, but the rivet should have deformed enough to hold the snap on tightly. You may need to use the snap setting tool to clean up/compress the interior if this happens. Step 3: Repeat four more times (or two, for a Stunt belt!). The end result should be something like this: Step 4: Mount female snaps to the holster as normal. The holster can now be snapped to the belt and removed as needed: I find the domed side is more resistant to scratching armor than the slotted heads of the chicago screws I was using previously. In my case, I'm re-using a holster I got second hand (came with the extra Anovos bits) so there were a few extra holes I didn't need. See my Stunt build thread for more details. So, there you have it. For any additional holsters, just repeat Step 4, making sure your holes line up with the snaps. I made a photocopy of one of the holster straps before installing the snaps so I can use it as a template down the road. If swapping between Stunt and Hero belts the uppermost snaps will sit behind the belt, un-used.

Wayne Winfield 32945 EIB A4 Tony Many thanks! My pleasure, Wayne! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/32945-eib.png Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Updated. You're approved, look for "501st Stormtrooper [TK]" under your name.

So I had my first troop on 4/7. It was a 5k event in a neighboring town. I was so nervous I barely slept the night before. Got there early and met some of the Garrison people who were awesome. Original forecast was for snow and rain but all we got was some wind and cold. There were a few other TKs and a TD so I had some good company. After getting geared up, we went out and started walking around and found it amazing to see the magic happen from the other side. Usually I’m the one asking for a pic now it was me getting asked. Had some great interactions with kids and got a few hugs. Even the teens were all about getting pics. As for my armor it held up well. Nothing fell apart but my biceps were falling (fix in progress) and my shins turn (still working on that one). Had to do without the hearing assist after an hour cause the earbud cord kept falling out (still can’t find speakers that work in the helmet without feedback). About the same time the mic got lost so I took the helmet off and readjusted it only to lose it again (think it was the balaclava position). It’s crazy how a kid can run up to you and you don’t even see them, sight line will take getting use to but luckily I didn’t walk on any kids and the whole walking thing takes some getting used to. Also couldn’t get my gun out of the holster (not a deal breaker) just not used to moving with all that on. And of course I ended up with the groin/arm armor bites but not too bad. For a first troop I think it went very well. Next troop is this weekend, 2 weekends in a row! Hopefully the fixes will correct the issue. And lastly I ordered some scout armor for a second costume. Think I’m addicted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just realized spell check changed trooping to tripping. Guess I better watch where I walk my first troop maybe that’s an omen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi mate Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I finally started a claim today with my credit card company against Anovos. I cancelled my Anovos order October 23 and was told 12-15 business days. Anovos is no longer returning my emails. Imagine that. My AP armour is almost completed and I expect to be applying for the 501st early next week. Order of events: Anovos ANH TK orderd January 12th Anovos cancellation request email sent out October 16 AP ANH TK ordered October 17 Anovos Cancellation confirmed October 24 AP armour delivered November 2 AP armour construction start November 24 AP armour almost complete December 8 Anovos refund? Nope.