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My bubble lenses.

One more.

Another one:

Run starts: January 8th Sizes: EU sizes 36/37/38/39/40 or Approximate US sizes 5.5/6.5/7.5/8.5/9.5 (per conversion chart) Price: $99.90 US, $35 Shipping to US You'll order these from http://www.imperialboots.com/ when the run begins in the new year. Set your calendar reminder! ------------------- Original Post: With the options for boots dwindling, I reached out to Vincent @ Imperial Boots about the Legacy design. His team is willing to do a production run in January, pending interest from the community. I have asked for a quote... based on other similar designs, I expect these boots will run in the $100 range. https://www.imperialboots.com/ Please post up here if you're interested in the run. Looks like we had enough interest for Vincent to start a run on Jan 8th!

Try to assembled all the part, but I have to fix better the shoulders probably biceps and forearms are to heavy and leave to much black between chest and shoulders Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

The cod rivet is less than 1/2" from the edge. No wonder I am seeing all these badly placed rivets with advice like this from Tony.

Hi Drew and welcome to the FISD. The thread you are replying to here, is meant to help people with building a resin blaster. To buy a finished blaster, you can check the Imperial Commissary / PX section of this forum or for example have a look at Praetorian Blasters (made of rubber, more heavy than resin builds) or the SDS blasters or any other available source for blasters.

Ukswrath's buiild says the cod rivet should go 1 to 1 1/2" from the edge of the cod, and the posterior snaps should be about 5/8" and 1 3/8" in from the edge.

As current DL of the CTD and CO of COR, I highly recommend you visit us at 501stclonetroopers.net and Clones of the Republic on the RL forums. Plus, I know your GCO pretty darn well, so just know you've now been tasked with building a Clone. Just don't build a red one. Those are the worst I went back and did some fill of the old pics. If there's anything missing that you'd specifically want some more info on, please let me know. Shimming and sludging will be the big techniques required to do seamless armor. Your forearms will get quite a workout from all the sanding as well, so prepare to get massively ripped, Popeye style.

It has been found!! All is well in the galaxy..

Thank you, and yes, the seam areas are super polished (steps were 400/600/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/Novus3/Novus2) However, there is still a slight color difference . O used all newly made ABS paste, two batches for this process, all freshly cut from same plastic as the shim and plate material. So this is what has me scratching my head. My only guess is that the backer plate, which is from a different brand ABS may be playing into it. It’s not bad, it’s just that it is not perfectly invisible and I’m a little OCD about these things. But I’m at a point of trying to not letting perfection get in the way of good enough. If you go back in this thread, I used the same techniques as I did on my bucket mask, which came out perfect.... so I’m not sure what is going on. BTW, I was looking at vacuforming some extra rivet covers so I’ll let you know how that goes Sent from my Imperial TK communicator

Thanks, mate! Gigantic thanks to Hass Dardo and Jim for designing and building the first kit, Walt for making it pretty and fixing a lot of the bugs, Francois and Imperialboots for making a brand new boot, everyone that has questioned, encouraged, or debated, Dark CMF for beginning and Daetrin and Tolo for finishing the CRL discussion, Darth Aloha and team for guiding the process of approving and publishing the CRL, Rich Heffernan for help with pics, and Chris Moody and Jessica Purkey of the 70th Explorers for cutting the pics out in Photoshop. It takes a Legion to raise a TK. This wasn't possible without contributions from each of you. Thank you. I'm very happy to see this completed; I suppose I need to get to work on fixing my pictures and building a bit better step-by-step guide to help anyone else that wants to build the Animated TK!!

Your thighs look like they may be a bit high and are smashing into your belt in the front and the butt plate in the back. That will get uncomfortable really quick. I would trim the metal TD clips so they are not showing from under the belt. I don't believe that you need the straps around the biceps as they are not in the crl. Just my opinion and what I see. I'll defer to the experts here though. Other than that, great job on the build.

Great news and congratulations to Eric Tk11281

Congratulations on your approval Eric

Here's the new URL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rebels It will show up in the FISD list as soon as the main page sync with the back end. -Eric

Wow, this is truly awesome news. Both are solid changes and I want to thank everyone who contributed to making this happen.

Hey there Reese. The Pal was a Christmas present from my wife last winter. She got it from a local shop, one specialized in furnitures and stuff for shops and stores. Later this year I found exactly the same model on AliExpress. I'm posting here one link to that, but it seems to be the Spanish site of AliExpress and don't know if it will work for you... https://m.es.aliexpress.com/s/item/32659114180.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.13bb6d89slCQJo One last advice if I may... there is a whole bunch of these mannequins, most of them with turning heads and poseable wooden arms and hands (very useful) but different legs position. Mine has one foot advanced, but there is another one in standing at attention position. I think I also saw some model with poseable wooden legs as well, but much more expensive. Hope this help. Cheers.

I'd strongly suggest against anovos; their shipping times are long at best, indefinite at worst. There's plenty of other great vendors (some even more accurate with kits) that deliver for similar prices.

Would obviously need a simpler version (5 or 6 colors) for the patch, but here's my submission:

This has been removed from the CRL. There is no reason to define construction methods in the CRL.

Second try with the snap provisional, now the black on shoulders and forearms is less Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

The thermal detonator caught my attention the other day so I thought I would put it together appeared easy to do. http://20171014-190242-1 by -matthewwormleaton- http://20171014-190246-2 by -matthewwormleaton- http://20171014-190252-3 by -matthewwormleaton-

Right thigh with ammo pack just held in place by magnets http://20171001-180106-2 by -matthewwormleaton- http://20171001-180126-3 by -matthewwormleaton-

Hi all, i have completed my shins and I decided to go with the bra hook closure. Left shin. / / / The rear cover strip looks off centre but when it’s on my leg it aligns vertically and before setting the sniper knee in place with e6000 I adjusted it to align with the shin front edge.

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So much armor! Charlie