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eqdizzle

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About eqdizzle

  • Rank
    Major

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  • Gender
    Male

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Standard Info

  • Name
    Eric
  • 501st ID
    11281
  • 501st Unit
    70th Explorers - Gateway Squad

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  1. 2018 Pancake Breakfast with Santa and the Stormtroopers -- Fundraiser for Toys for Tots and in support of a young man named Carter who is battling Leukemia. Full album: https://imgur.com/a/B5IwwFQ
  2. The way the CRL is written, you can use a standard ANH one for basic approvals. It is a different design from the ground up though, so it wouldn't be entirely accurate. Someone with a tad more sculpting skills than I would likely need to mock up one to pull plastic in a vaccuformer.
  3. Remember that the movie TK pauldron is different than the Rebels one.
  4. Correct. I'm on the Command Staff with a different Detachment, so our policy is to first make the prop and provide references, then submit it to the Command Staff for review. You're looking at a separate part, so it shouldn't be that hard. Are you doing a stencil to paint it on or are you looking at a decal? Also check the reference photo thread I posted a bit back to see if any are of use. If you have more to add, please do so for the benefit of the other Rebels costumers.
  5. Last weekend's Planet Comicon in KCMO saw a bunch of TKs in full glory. If you look closely, you can see a Rebel in their midst...! Rex and Kanan have infiltrated the Empire!!
  6. and for comparison to the original bucket: Huge improvement in size over the original (dad pun intended)! Hope this WIP has helped you be successful in finishing your own Rebels Stormtrooper helmet!!
  7. Step 19: Tube Stripes Pretty basic! Cut your two halves out, and trim parallel to the ends to get to fit better into the space. Measure out your placement. I put these at 3.5cm from the cheek crease. Dry fit, then place and press..!! You now have yourself a COMPLETED REBELS STORMTROOPER HELMET!! The only thing left is to troop the heck out of it!
  8. Step 18: Padding (needed) and fans (optional, but recommended) ACH/MICH pads attached using adhesive velcro. These can be removed and washed if they get too stinky. This bucket is a tad front-heavy just based on the physics of it, so I added some thinner pads at the cheekbone area. The whole bucket sits very securely without being constricting. Since this is a resin bucket and therefore has a lot more heft than an ABS counterpart, I would not recommend star foam with a chin strap. Play with positioning on the military-style pads until you're satisfied with the r
  9. Step 16: Adding mesh behind the teeth (hot glue gun) Cut out a piece of screen material (found at the local hardware store). I used the type for heavy-duty pet protection, as it is a coated nylon and has a rubbery feel to it. I will typically cut out a wide rectangle, and then cut areas to better match the frown shape. Using hot glue, I put a vertical stripe directly in the middle of the center tooth, making sure to keep the glue away from the edge of the tooth. At this point, I push the mesh into the glue, holding tight at the top and bottom until it s
  10. Step 15: Gloss Topcoat (respiratory protection) I taped the black areas off so they would not get the gloss clear coat. From what I can tell, the brow strip and vocoder look more matte than shiny. Bottom side first, followed by the upper. Step 16: Adding the aerators (gloves) I ended up coating the aerators with a Matte finish spray. Sanding the bottom, and a little bit of the center of the tube opening, add 1 drop of CA glue per side in the center. You'll have to work pretty quickly, but drop each aerator in the opening and twis
  11. Step 14: Prep the Aerators (respiratory protection) Prime and paint with the black semi-gloss. Flat black is also acceptable here. After this has dried, I used Testor's Flat Aluminum and hand-brushed the center area. These don't need to be perfect, as they will be weathered and the hand-brushing helps to mimic that look. DON'T ATTACH THESE TO THE BUCKET YET!!!
  12. For the tears, I like to use a pencil to mark my stripes first. Begin in the middle, with a line parallel to the right and left sides. Then add two lines on each side as close to equidistant as possible, for a total of 5 lines. If you have the decal, you can also use this as a guide to where each line should go. Complete touch ups with gray (if necessary), and gloss white to clean up any bleeds or oops spots. Step 13: Edge lighting the teeth (thin detail brush, respiratory protection) Use your detail brush in a "Dry Br
  13. Step 12: Touch ups and black details (detail brush, respiratory protection) I like to touch up the gray first, touch up and apply black details second, and do final touchups with white third. For the detail lines, apply tape *just* outside the gray trap areas. Use your thin detail brush to bias towards the tape line...to keep all the mess on the tape. Peel your tape, and you should be left with a nice, thin line. If you have an oops, we can always touch up again with gray to clean that up.
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