Leaderboard

This picture says it all! My SBB in all it's glory! Wooh, it was a good month of waiting which isn't so bad at all considering it came from the UK. For my E-11 Blaster, I decided to go with a Doopydoos Full Resin Kit. All parts were delivered but the folding stock - wishbone had a piece broken off. This is my first blaster build. First time also working with Resin. I am going for good level of screen accuracy, battle worn and as realistic as possible, especially as it pertains to the SMG part. I will be making a ANH version of the E-11. To bring the blaster to the next level, I am complimenting the doopydoos kit with T-jay's Completion set, and Chris's 3D printed parts. Although originally looking to get Steve's magazine replica some time in the future as well, it will be a toss between it and Robert's magazine, as the latter is hollow and I may need room to put electronics. One huge addition I am absolutely to-the-moon-and-back about is installing Paul's fully wired and ready to install BlastFX - electronics that will bring the E-11 Blaster alive with lights and sound. This latter addition will be a dream come true; order made to arrive late October 2017. As for instructions, I am relying heavily on the E-11 Blaster Reference Manual. Thank you thank you for all the authors involved in this valuable document - gives us newbies a solid step forward. My timeline for completing the blaster is likely a year or so into the future. I am just out to revel at every detail, enjoying small advances every day. With E-6000 as my CA of choice and allowing for green stuff to fix mistakes with that cure time of also, 24 hours, I need all the time in the world anyways. Also, I'm not going on any particular order. Generally speaking, I will be putting the SMG portion together first then, move to the E-11 parts following, but not in every case necessarily. Also, I will seemingly leave component parts 'incomplete' and jump to another component part. So in short, my build will not be done in orderly fashion. Well, without any further due, let's begin!!! After a nice wash to get rid of fine resin dust and left over release agent chemicals, I proceeded to sand down the two ends of the broken part to get ready for applying the reinforced epoxy. I then placed the entire folding stock / wishbone piece on my vise. I placed Popsicle sticks to fill the void between two forks of the wishbone and held them together with tape. After having the epoxy settle while the piece was on an angle sitting on my vise, I felt the epoxy was starting to harden, although really, it was just a short while, so I positioned the piece vertically, so to use gravity for better surface area contact between the resin parts and the epoxy. After cure, all is well! The forks sit evenly between themselves - Yes! Just need a little sanding down of the left over epoxy around the seams which I'll do later when I tackle that piece. Here, I drill all holes in the Receiver tube. Before getting into details, want to emphasize how fine the resin gets when you're killing it. Highly recommend, as it was highly recommended to me, to use a proper respirator and safety glasses. Nothing beats safety and ensuring for good health! So I began by measuring out the existing holes made by Doopydoos using my precision measuring tool and came out with 7 / 16 " and was delighted to see a matching step on my step drill - bingo! I then used my kids crayola crayon to mark the center of the to-be-cut holes and placed the receiver tube on my vise trying to keep it as horizontal as possible, trying to eliminate any tipping and rolling etc. As for the drilling, I tried to keep it as vertical as possible and let the drill do it's work. It took a while, especially when you hit the inner metal tube. I was afraid to go too far so, as you can see, I didn't go all the way to the 7 / 16 " mark, afraid I would over-rotate and make a large gaping hole! It was difficult to see how far I drilled too with all that swiggly resin coming about from the drill process. I will need to go back with some fine precision to get it just right. Better to proceed with caution right?, then have nothing to work with and sorrow. I will need also to finish drilling the rest of the holes, which, hopefully, I will be brave enough to commit to the 7 / 16 " mark more firmly. Here is finer detail showing the work more clearly. I am happy to have made it this far though as I try to be as systematic as possible, wanting to have a clean build with as few mishaps as possible. I proceed with finishing off drilling the remaining holes of the receiver tube. After marking the center of the holes, I created pilot holes and proceeded with using the step drill bit this time around. This just gave the step drill more grab and helped me have my holes more aligned. If you noticed, my first set of drilled holes had one that was pretty off! Here's the piece after drilling. As you can see, I still have the folding stock notch that still needs to be cut out. Oh and yeah, I went a little trigger happy with my drill and tackled the holes on the underbelly of my wishbone. I also will need to do some modeling with 'green stuff' to fill out the handle piece I mangled. This complicates things for this piece, especially about the extension tube which I destroyed, but I will get around to addressing these later. I picked up a 6 in. Round Bastard File (the weirdest of names) to help sand down the uneven inner parts of the drilled holes. While sanding, I noticed that Doopydoos leaves allot of resin where the T-tracks meet / grab onto the receiver tube. The holes on either end of the tracks are filled with excess resin which obscures and takes away the kind of detail I want. To open up the T-track grab holes, I first drilled... ... and then used, what's called a Riffler file to get at shaping out the hole. I learn something new everyday. It says they are made for woodworking, but it is working fine so far. They're pretty tiny tools that come in many sculpting forms. The one I chose is curved on the outside and cornered on the inside. I am hoping the curvature will help me shape the hole and the cornered part of the file to give me the angle I want for shaping the T-track part. Here's the cornered part of the Riffler file tool I just mentioned. Here's the tool getting at the T-track part... ...and now the hole curvature part. Here's the T-track grab hole the way I want it. I think the cut out / file will get cleaner as I work the other holes. The vent hole notch is now cut out and I've managed to patch-up a vent hole that was quite off. Hollowing out the folding stock was quite a bit of work as you will see. Receiver Vent Hole Notch Precision measured the notch to be 3/16" and applied a 1/8" router bit to my Dremel 3000 and put it to task. Followed up by using a square file to get it clean. Redo of Vent Hole Used a 7/16" thread-cutting tap to carve out a portion of the vent hole. Then proceeded to fill entire hole with green stuff. I let the green stuff harden over 10-12 hours to be safe. Then I drilled through once again and followed through with a sanding file. Now, the vent hole is the right size and in the right place, mostly - it's now to my liking. Hollow out Folding Stock Used 1/4" 60 Grit Sanding Band (Dremel 430) at medium then high speeds, ranging from 30,000 to 35,000 RPMs. Before I knew it, resin dust was spewing into the air. SO glad I have a good quality respirator because there was a lot of resin dust by the end of the task. My little nylon brush came in really handy to brush away dust between sanding sessions. I managed to hollow it out in about 1/2 hour. I will need to go back to lightly sand to get it just right. Finally set-up my workshop - here's my set-up for resin work for use of my dremel and for manual handheld sanding. Progress on front sight. I precision measured a dimension on the block and compared that measurement with the real sterling dimension from the E-11 Blaster Reference guide. They don't match up. I gather, generally speaking, doopydoos somehow reduced the scale of the thing? Think will likely need to eye-ball it to get it to proper shape. I came away quite literally, 'short' on trying to make due with my Doopydoos front sight block. Having filed it to shape it,it came out really small! Don't think any pin is going to fit inside let alone a grub screw! Order for Chris's 3D printed part happened real soon after this! In this test-fit pic, the block does look reasonably well but definitely, still on the small side. I did do good on texturing the appropriate parts of my front sight though, like that of the original sterling - green stuff applied and patterned. Green stuff applied Knurling pattern source Pattern applied Pattern applied to back I then removed the strip on the bolt and also made that part of the receiver tube more pronounced. Doopy's resin blobs for screws were also removed. Strip removed Edge enhanced Resin blobs for screws Left blob removed Right blob removed Proceeded to hollow out the outer edges of the bolt, I've gone and recreated the plunger and extractor. I'm happy with it mostly, although still lacking in size and detail but I like it enough to move on. When my completion kit arrives, I have to follow through with putting in the strip that diagonally runs across it. As I don't have a letter and number stamp set to put in the serial number thingy on the bolt, that will be a much later addition. Plunger & Extractor Did more detail on the folding stock. Having hollowed where the rod sits a while back, today, spent the time to add realism to the piece. Carved in and around individual pieces that make up the folding stock to add realism by making it look more like movable parts. There's a ton of 'green stuff' where I was too generous using the Dremel. Still need to follow-up to sand those parts down. Folding Stock I was careful not to hollow out too much of the opening so to reveal the latch inside. Proceeded to work on magazine power cylinders. I just took out the central capacitors with my dremel. Original power cylinder Close up of central capacitors Central capacitors removed I proceeded to tackle a rather significant component of the E-11 Blaster - the m38 scope. I've managed to use spade bits to hollow it out and made some front and end cuts. I've purchased a monocular and will place it in the inside. With the scope being hollowed, I'm hoping the light coming through to the inside will make the monocular functional. Lenses will be placed on either end of the scope as well - with it's concave shape, this will help with drawing light in. A third glass-like disc will also be placed near the large lens end of the scope to reveal graticulars, cross-hair thingys, you know, for aiming at those rebel scum! Original m38 scope - front assembly end Original m38 scope - large lens end I uses spade bits to get the job done. 1" (25mm) bit was used to begin hollowing at the large lens end. 3/8" (10mm) bit was used to begin hollowing at the front assembly end. I tried to be as tactful as I could to progressively move to smaller bits as I proceeded deeper into the scope from the large lens end as you need to take into consideration the narrower contours as you get further in. If you do make a mistake as I did, not tapering in far enough, it's nothing green stuff can't fix. Hacksawing to remove large lens housing Front assembly end - lens housing removed large lens end - lens housing removed Reassembled scope - front assembly view Reassembled scope - large lens view I was eager to get started as ordered items from Shapeways arrived in the mail recently. I now have a true replica of the sight block and pin. With this piece in my possession, I proceeded cautiously to carve out a 'dove tail' channel that will hold the sight block. Having cut-guides put in place, I proceeded to cut out the channel using a hacksaw blade, and using a square and mostly a triangle file to get it to shape. I dare not use a dremel or I would have messed this up really bad. Applying intricate filing and allot of patience paid off. Although the block sits a little loose on the channel than desired, it's nothing green stuff can't fix. I'm overall quite happy with the results. Sight block position template Outline of template Template removed Precision measure for depth of dove tail channel Hack sawing is the first go Square file to retain hard edges at 90 degrees Masked hard edges so I don't widden top edge of dove channel Finished dove tail channel Top view of finished dove tail channel Side view of finished dove tail channel Sight block with pin, test fit on finished dove tail channel Side view of front sight installed Thanks for reading! Any and all comments welcomed.

When I registered here on FISD back in September 2013 and began posting, I had totally missed to start with the usual introduction thread. Because of that (and my recent basic approval) I felt the need to now follow Tim’s (DarkCMF) call and at least formally introduce myself as a Stormtrooper What started out in pure intention to build a life-size TK display for my home, turned into one of the most interesting adventures in my life so far. After a very time consuming research, I decided to go for the Troopermaster ANH Stunt armor (1.5mm ABS). Like many others here, I used the waiting time to build a blaster. Okay, in my case it was more than just one. Not because the BBB-day took that long, but I got deeper and deeper into that specific topic. This led to other, even more time consuming projects like the Completion Sets for resin blasters and the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. Somewhere in between all this, the big brown box arrived and “a couple of hours” were spent on this, too. It all kept me busy and the trouble to find a suitable mannequin for the armor caused a long delay. During this time I was encouraged by a lot of friendly people to join a troop. It took a while but I did it and this later changed the game for me. Meanwhile I am officially approved as Stormtrooper of the 501st-Legion and also found a good mannequin. Seems like the armor will either get a busy life between troops and the display, or another armor is needed. Just kidding. The next steps on my list are EIB and Centurion so wish me some luck for that. I would like to thank everybody who ever helped me to get an overview, to find the best options and to do things right. Really thought about naming them here but I simply worry to miss somebody. Many thanks also to the FISD and the people here. Have never before seen an online community with such friendly members, willing to help. Let’s keep that up. Thank you

Build update: Bayonet lug: Installed Magazine slot: Hollowed out. Drill holes to bottom. Installed grip and magazine slot:

I'll have an update on this by EOD today. Sorry - it's a church in the morning/Seahawks game in the afternoon kind of day.

Well the boxes have begun to arrive. So excited http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/ukswrath1/ANOVOS/TFA/Brown Box.jpg Tools: Exacto knifes (large & small) Lexan Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Body-Scissors-Reamer-3-Piece/dp/B007KN0RQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441204195&sr=8-2&keywords=lexan+scissors&pebp=1441204247995&perid=1E2086K8TZ8RZFFQEB6K Optional but highly recommended: Dremel (or equivalent) http://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1441204317&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel&pebp=1441204320209&perid=07G870JQ8R30T9MKD32X Optional but highly recommended: Dremel plastic cutting wheel http://www.amazon.com/Gyros-46-20199-Cutter-Dremel-8-Inch/dp/B000U5ZZXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1441204290&sr=8-4&keywords=dremel+plastic+cutter+wheel Optional but highly recommended: Dremel small carbide cutting bit, large and small sanding drums - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OTIZ4I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 Drill with 7/32" & 3/8" drill bits Steel ruler (large & small) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Cut-Resistant-Large-Gloves-7008-06/205813582 Square http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Cut-Resistant-Large-Gloves-7008-06/205813582 40+ magnets http://www.ebay.com/itm/281363537848?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 10+ assorted clamps http://www.homedepot.com/p/OLYMPIA-Clamp-Kit-14-Piece-73-293-107/205742057 Pencil Sharpie Optional but highly recommended: Belt Sander 4" x 36" - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAXSYT8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 Optional but highly recommended: Hand Sander http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Mouse-Detail-Sander-MS800B/100671602 Optional but highly recommended: Hand Sander additional 220 grit finishing sand paper http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-3-7-8-in-x-5-1-2-in-220-Grit-CAT-Mouse-Detail-Sanding-Sheet-with-Hook-and-Lock-Backing-DCTCAT220H05G/202830877 Optional but highly recommended: Hand Sander additional sanding and polishing pads (kit) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Mouse-Sanding-Polishing-Kit-74-580/204735220 200 & 250 grit sanding blocks http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-4-1-2-in-x-2-1-2-in-x-1-in-220-Grit-X-Fine- Optional: Heat Gun - http://www.amazon.com/1500-Watt-Temperature-572%C2%B0F-1112%C2%B0F/dp/B0053U2B8G/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1442428572&sr=1-2&keywords=heat+gun Spot putty spreader - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMORQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01 Material: 3M Scotch Bright pad (light grey, fine grit) Wet & Dry sand paper for final and pre-paint prep - 3M 26400PGP-4 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-9-in-x-11-in-400-Grit-X-Fine-Advanced-Sanding-Sheets-4-Pack-26400PGP-4/205415931 Sanding block - http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-2-5-8-in-x-4-3-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-Sanding-Block-9292NA-6-CC/100142732 Painter's tape http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-ScotchBlue-1-88-in-x-60-yds-Advanced-Multi-Surface-Painter-s-Tape-with-Edge-Lock-2093EL-48N/203085525 E6000 http://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-2-oz-Clear-Adhesive-6-Pack-237032/205382750?cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-205382750&ci_sku=205382750&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvJqvBRCL77m2-uKczsIBEiQAkx8VjKypOZN0aqqOK82w4MXdTzgcl6h3dPgSAOWUFl5vGfEaAh6C8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds CA glue (zap a gap) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zap-PT-01-Zap-A-Gap-Medium-CA-Glue-2-oz-ounces-NEW-Unopened-/400775409865?hash=item5d501370c9, Zip kicker http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pacer-Technology-Zap-PT15-Zap-Adhesives-Zip-Kicker-2-oz-/131592610768?hash=item1ea387e3d0 Plexus MA310 epoxy (old mfg Devcon Plastic welder II 14340), x3 - https://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Purpose-Strength-Adhesive-cartridge/dp/B06ZY7KMWD/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Plexus+MA310&qid=1587473596&s=industrial&sr=1-1 Epoxy gun x1 - https://www.amazon.com/MixPac-DMA50-Dispensing-Adhesive-Cartridges/dp/B00KACZ8AU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=MixPac+DMA50&qid=1562526455&s=industrial&sr=1-2 Extra epoxy mixing tips (12 pack) - https://www.amazon.com/3M-38191-Static-Cartridges-Nozzles/dp/B00596QVHG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mixing+Nozzle%2C+38191&qid=1587473788&s=lawn-garden&sr=8-1 Strapping (suspension system) & Connection Material: 2" wide Velcro, 3M Industrial Strength, (black), Gasket to armor connection (armor side) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-brand-4-ft-x-2-in-Industrial-Strength-Tape-90595/202261932. 1-1/2: wide (sew in, black) Velcro, Country Brook Design, Gasket to armor connection (gasket side) - http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Inches-Velcro%C2%AE/dp/B003KWUSV6/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1449608909&sr=1-2&keywords=1-1%2F2%22+velcro 2" wide Velcro, 3M Industrial Strength (white), Armor to armor connection (Chest to yoke) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-brand-15-ft-x-2-in-Industrial-Strength-Tape-90198/202261920?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-202261919-_-202261920-_-N 1" Nylon Webbing (black) - Assorted strapping (suspension) connections - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QL2C26?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 2" Nylon Webbing (black) - Assorted strapping (suspension) connections - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1HK9A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 1-1/2" Elastic (black) Yoke to Shoulder Bell connection - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OPFF3C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 5/8" (15mm) Elastic (black) - Left to right shoulder gasket connection - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ4O83W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 5/8" (16mm) Nylon Ribbon (black) - Shoulder gasket connection anchor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RQQLE60?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 1/2" Rigilene Boning (black), Mesh suspension (strapping) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBIRQJS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 2" Buckle (black), Strapping (suspension) Waist belt connection) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MKS00O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 1' Buckle (black), Assorted strapping (suspension) connections - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDBJH9I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01 5/8" (15mm) Buckle (black) - Left to right shoulder gasket gonnection - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X0KMV0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 #24 Line Snaps, Yoke to Shoulder Bell - Tandy 12mm Double Cap Rivets (gun metal black), Shoulder gasket connection anchor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X0KMV0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 12mm Double Cap Rivets (nickle), Suspension Mesh to Ab - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121710367884?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 1" Buckle, swivel / slide release, black, strapping (suspension), chest to back - http://www.ebay.com/itm/151146077829?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=450215821998&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 10x Chicago screws (Standard waist belt assembly) 1/4" 1/8" x 1/4" Pop rivet, Ab to lower suspension mesh boning - 2 spools Heavy duty nylon thread - 1 square yard mesh fabric - armor suspension (strapping) - American plastics - 6" x 6" 1.5mm+ cover strip material - armor suspension (strapping) connection point - ATA or other Accuracy Update Material/Hardware: Rubber Isolation/Vibration Pad - material behind Center Waist Belt Boxes - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IT650T8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 1/4" x 2" Neoprene - center layer of Waist Belt & Shoulder Plate (suspension system) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/170613703683?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Mesh - chest pill holes - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34176-fs-ukswraths-fo-chest-pill-box-fabric-mesh/ Gaffers tape - material behind Pill Holes - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZE3UJ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 1/4 x 20 x 2" nylon bolts - Ab box mounting - 1/4 x 20 nylon nut - Ab box mounting - Chicago screws (belt with 1/4" neoprene section and 1" tall center box rubber mounts) - Center belt boxes 3/4", Right side boxes 1/2", end of belt near buckle 3/8" Pre Paint & Paint: PPG DFL1 Spot Putty - You local auto body supply store 3M Spot putty - https://www.amazon.com/3M-05095-Acryl-White-Putty-Tube/dp/B003P6I5KS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467760849&sr=8-5&keywords=Spot+Putty Poly-Flex flexible polyester glazing putty - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P6US6A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 ANOVOS recommended (rattle can) - RUST-OLEUM 249090 Gloss White - http://www.homedepot...49090/202071066 Primer - Rust-Oleum 249145 Professionally Painted - Paint, Clear and Hardener - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31877-ukswraths-tfa-build-thread-tk-10116/?p=447887 Extras: F-11D - (DIY) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41203-f-11d-resin-kits/. F-11D complete - https://www.etsy.com/listing/245791161/f-11d-blaster-11-scale?ref=shop_home_active_4 Boots & Gloves - Imperial - http://www.imperialboots.com/# Under suit, Gloves & Neckseal - https://www.stormtrooperundersuit.com/star-wars-first-order-stormtrooper-apparel-site.html Gaskets - Imperial gaskets - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31019-imperial-gaskets-more-upgrades/ Gaskets - Jimmi - Chest pill hole fabric - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34176-fs-ukswraths-fo-chest-pill-box-fabric-%20mesh/ Hard Hat Liner - Home depot - http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-White-Hard-Hat-with-Pin-Lock-Adjustment-CHH-P-W12/202195392 Steel Holster kit - Available through The New Order Facebook page -https://www.facebook.com/groups/FirstOrderStormtoopers/ Pauldron - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35470-fotk-vinyl-pauldron/ Cooling - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/ Audio system - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32951-interest-check-ukswraths-tfa-helmet-audio/ SHA system (hearing aid) - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32487-ukswraths-stormtrooper-hearing-assist-system/ PPE Cut resistant gloves http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Cut-Resistant-Large-Gloves-7008-06/205813582 Latex gloves http://www.homedepot.com/p/KLEENGUARD-Disposable-Blue-Nitrile-Gloves-X-Large-90-Count-57374/202798509 Safety Glasses Important SAFETY information, PLEASE READ!! So many chemicals that are used to assembly armor are toxic. Products like adhesives, fillers, paint, sanding byproducts, these are all toxic to your health and may cause cancer or organ damage over long periods of exposure. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area and/or wear a proper respirator. NOTE: When sanding a well ventilated area is NOT good enough, USE A RESPIRATOR suited for the job. TFA CRL - http://www.501st.com/databank/TK_-_First_Order Build Chapters Ab Boxes Ab Boxes: final assembly Belt Belt pt 2 Belt Accuracy (part 1) Belt Assembly Accuracy (part 2) Belt Assembly Accuracy (part 3) Biceps Biceps Accuracy (Part 1) Biceps Accuracy (Part 2) Chest Plate Indent Mod Chest Plate Accuracy Mod Chest Plate Accuracy Mod pt 2 Chest Plate Accuracy gap fill 1 Chest Plate Center and Pill Boxes Chest Plate Accuracy gap fill 2 Chest to Yoke attachment Forearms Forearm cont Gaskets Gaskets: thigh to shin Greeblies (clips) Hand Plates Holster Knee Caps Paint Code Paint prep: gap fill and sanding Paint Prep cont Shins Shin Accuracy Shin Closure Shoulder Bells Shoulder Bell Accuracy Shoulder Bell Accuracy pt 2 Shoulder Bell Accuracy: gmrhodes alt Spats Spats pt 2 Strapping: ab to cod Strapping: ab to posterior Thermal Det Thermal Det decals Thermal Det mounting Thighs Torso Torso: suspension system Torso: suspension system details Torso: suspension system details pt 2 Torso: suspension system details pt 3 Torso: suspension system details part 4 Yoke (shoulder + back) Yoke Re-enforcement 501st submission pictures Special thanks to Chris (Jancelot) for his organizational skillz

Basically yes as well as supplying relevant reference images for the build, which in this case will be difficult with only a front partial image so far, but who knows they may make a figure of the Cardinal or he may appear in a comic, there could be more to be told Your GML (garrison membership liaison) will be the one submitting your photos to the LMO team so I would suggest involving him/her in your build

Normally a new to the legion costume needs full front, back and side images, either from photos or a figure, here is some useful info for you. Here Here

Nice clean build Dan. My only suggestion would be that you double snap all connections. Single snaps will pop during trooping antics. It's best to be over built than under built and deal with malfunctions.

Looking Good Kris, Check out the “Advanced Tactics” section where you can see examples of those who have taken their armor to the next levels of screen accuracy (EIB and Centurion). I’d recommend that you aim to build to one of the certification levels, as TK’s look their best at these levels. It's really not hard to acquire EIB or Centurion either, so go for it!

Good luck with clearance Ross !

If its in the book I don't see why not. Someone just needs to build it. I am betting it might go to Spec Ops though.

I imagine that since it comes from a canon source, it is approvable - once the CRL entry for him is written. That also means *someone* has to be the first Cardinal - hint, hint.

Tried a quick fitting (hand plates are wrong) Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Dovetail slot perfectly executed!

Hi all, Whilst the armour build continues, I've also been testing my TRamp (Trooper Amp) system. It's very good and SOO simple to use. Apologies for my limited quotes and bad American accent. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A lot of people build their belt flat like this but there's a better way in my opinion. The belt is best built curved. Set the center rivet and put the belt on your body over the ab and kidney plates. Then mark the location of the outer holes. Remember covering your schoolbooks? If you covered them while flat, they wouldn't close. Building the belt flat is the number one reason people blow out rivets or crack the plastic on the belt packs.

Hi all, mmmmm gummies. The arrival of Tino's completion set continues to satisfy Everything arrived in good order! I happily went on to install the front knurling pattern screws on the muzzle. I noticed after installing the screws that they sat a little low to my liking. Confirmed by pictures of Sterling submachine guns and using Aaron's Blaster Compendium, that the screws are elevated a bit. I created a platform like part for the screws to sit on and am quite happy with the results. Installed cross hatch patterned muzzle screws with allen wrench over top green stuff for correctness. I also went to put the spring coil together. The wire was 1.8mm gauge, which provides good amount of tension to be functional. The recommended 16mm diameter rod was used to form the coil - coil came away with the perfect diameter. I used one of the rods for a mobile closet. This is the final coil, completed. You can tell I began to be more efficient half way through. Until next time! and thank you for reading

I have to give credit to @jimmiroquai 's painter for that

I just requested access...thanks man!

Hey there! yes i remember you saying that and im proud of what Jim & I have accomplished even with very limited reference photos. I feel very lucky that we have Jim here Its already gray...but i havent changed the size yet due to immediate troopings... but im looking at 2.5 or 2.75.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-41199638 Another of our screen heroes draws their career to a close. I was lucky enough to meet him in May and it was clear then he wasn't going to be doing it long. Enjoy your retirement Lord Vader.

Looks great! Was your action shot taken at a different time? The left thigh cover strip looks too long but it looks fine in your other photos.

Thanks Bulldog! and great of you to check in. I have to say, your detail work on your M38 scope offerings are amazing - so many component pieces. See you at the next post.

Awesome! Digging out the tiny spaces where the t-tracks enter the holes looks great, super start , looking forward to the rest of your build.

Cool. Just don't go and make anything required for Centurion that I don't feel like doing, ok?

OK, we really need to get this CRL started. My direction to the staff was to first re-write the FOTK so that it had EI/Centurion sections, and then we can use that as a base for the TLJTK.