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Kristen holding my new aluminum stock assembly onto the prototype e11 body... I will have them brazed on in production

I believe what he's referring to is the gap and the lining of the rivets on the left side? I could be wrong, but the gap still needs to be half an inch or less while also having the rivets on the left side equal distance from each other and lined up correctly... refer to this thread where he lists a great example for the rivets and placement: Good job on your armor! Keep it up!

First and foremost... There is no one 'best' armor. There is a 'best' armor for *you* depending on a few factors: 1) Your budget 2) What your body size is (yes, different armors lend themselves for different body types) * 3) How experienced are you at building armor 4) It's not the kit, it's how it's fitted to the wearer that counts * While FISD does not endorse any particular armor maker, below are sellers who have proven themselves time and again in terms of customer service, honesty, and quality. All makes below can be made to be both 501st and FISD acceptable. MATERIALS Armor is made from either HIPS or ABS. HIPS --- Pros: generally less expensive, easier to trim. --- Cons: needs painting or serious polishing to look shiny. Most HIPS will not be as durable as ABS or take the stress of ABS --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping ABS --- Pros: no need to paint, high durability --- Cons: may lack the detail of HIPS, usually harder to trim --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping plus take a lot of abuse OTHER TERMS Untrimmed: means the kit comes untrimmed and you'll have to trim the parts before starting assembly. Trimmed: parts are pre-trimmed and you can start assembling right away ANH Derived: traces back to a screen used helmet. Armor came from an incomplete ROTJ suit that was supplemented with parts from a tour suit, with this base being modified to be more ANH accurate in detailing. Parts will need to be butt joined with a finishing strip glued on top. * ON SIZING ANH Derived armor (TE2, AP) was sculpted for a typical UK actor circa 1976, e.g. 5'10" and 165lbs. While good for smaller body types, it has been successfully made to fit people as large as 6'4" 235lbs though requires a bit of shimming to pull this off. 1. If you are taller or larger in frame/girth, you may want to consider AM, RT, or TM armor makes for easier fitting. 2. If you are shorter, while ANH derived armor may lend itself to your size, even FX armor has been made to fit and look good on people as small as 5'6" and 115lbs (and smaller!). 3. RT has upsized his helmet by 4-5% which makes it equivalent to the size of the old FX but is more accurate in appearance. So, while it's true that every kit has a certain ideal body type, every make has been made to fit every body type and still look good. WHO TO AVOID 1. Be aware that this site - http://www.stormtroo...s.com/home.html - is not considered commercially available. It is run by a person selling recast parts, and at a healthy premium over what you can buy direct from vetted sources. You've been warned... 2. Do not buy from e-bay - kits are over-priced, the quality is often dubious, and always recast. 3. Also see this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19329-where-what-and-whom-to-avoid-when-buying/ COMMISSION BUILDS Please be aware before purchasing a "commission build" (assembled by any of our vetted sellers listed below) or a completed costume sold by reputable members, does not mean an automatic pass at our higher levels of approval. As with all costumes, the armor will be under the same level of scrutiny as one you assemble yourself. It must fit well and follow correctly the requirements as set out in the current CRL. Please also bare in mind, you could be requested to make modifications and corrections when applying for Expert Infantry and Centurion levels where additional reference materials are used over and above what is written in said CRL's. Some example are sniper plate positioning, rivet placement and the finer details scrutinized at Centurion. VETTED MAKERS While there are many other sources for armor, the list below only contains those who have proven track records of honest business dealings, quality craftsmanship, and that are free from recast debates. You are certainly free to buy where you will, but if you vary this list we strongly encourage that you at least do your due diligence inquiring about the seller's quality and reputation before parting with your money. === ANH DERIVED ARMOR === Type: ATA (Affordable Trooper Armor) Sadly Unavailable until further notice Country: USA Contact: Kit: ABS (HIPS by request), untrimmed, ANH derived Availability Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips, HIPS needs to be painted. Comments: The quality of HIPS material is such that it is the most durable of all HIPS armor makes. ABS is a custom made ABS for color, gloss, and durability, so you can order it either way and feel confident. Type: Authenticprops (AP) Country: Canada Contact: [email protected] Kit: .080 gloss white ABS, ANH derived can be ordered Untrimmed, Fully trimmed (ready for assembly) or Fully built Ready to Wear out of the box. All kits include ANH Leather holster, rubber gloves, rubber hand guards, canvas belt, TD metal clips and all correct hardware to build your armor to centurion specs. Helmet is screen derived but cleaned up with a smooth cap and back, The AP helmet includes hovi mic tip replicas, Centurion approved painted look vinyl decals, green acetate lens, rubber brow/neck trim, frown mesh, all correct hardware to assemble helmet. Availability: No known problems obtaining this, usual wait time 4 to 8 weeks Options: UNTRIMMED KIT all parts require trimming/sanding FULLY TRIMMED KIT all parts come perfectly trimmed ready for assembly FULLY BUILT READY TO WEAR out of the box (Custom built to your size) HELMET ONLY (untrimmed, trimmed, fully built) ARMOR ONLY (untrimmed, trimmed, fully built) Assembly: requires cover-strip and butt-joining for assembly like the movie original Comment: AB and Kidney plates have 3" inch extensions to the sides to fit larger waist sizes without the need of shimming, can be easily trimmed down to perfectly fit your waist size or left to original movie size. All kits include ANH style Leather holster, rubber gloves, rubber flexible hand guards, canvas belt, TD metal clips and all correct hardware to build your armor to centurion specs! Type: RS Prop Masters Country: UK Contact: [email protected] or http://www.rspropmasters.com/ Kit: 1.5mm ABS or 1.5mm PVC, untrimmed or ready-to-wear, only 1st Generation cast of an original ANH armor. Comes with all accessories needed for Expert Infantry level build and Centurion ready with very little extra parts needed. Note again, commission builds from RS are not always up to our EI and Centurion level and may require additional work to be approved. Availability: 3-5 days Assembly: Parts are untrimmed and requires cover-strip and butt-joining for assembly. Can be ordered pre-assembled for an additional fee. Options: 1. Helmet + Armour - Kit 2. Armor only - Kit 3. Helmet - Kit 4. Helmet - Fully finished and hand painted 5. Armor + Helmet - Armor trimmed to your specification but not assembled + Fully finished helmet. 6. "Fully loaded" - Accessory package, when bought together with armor. Contains strapping kit, latex handguards, rubber gloves, canvas belt, etc.. All prices are excluding shipping. Comments: The only 1st Generation cast of an original ANH armor. Comes unaltered with all the good and bad that brings. May require more skill to assemble than other kits. Extremely accurate when assembled with care. Armour is more generous than SDS or AP, but not as large as RT-Mod or AM. Type: RWA (RWA Creations) Country: Isle of Wight, UK Contact: Email to [email protected] .. Facebook: RWA Creations Availability: 6 weeks Kit: ANH, ESB untrimmed kit in 1.5mm ABS, 2mm ABS, 2mm Acrylic capped. Black or White. Options: Helmet assembly service or fully finished (excluding padding). Neck seals, Canvas Belts, Aluminium Thermal detonator clips. 2" longer shins available on request. XL parts for taller troopers: See: XL Thighs - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLyH1nb4fPQ, XL Shoulder bells - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qySuQk4DI-Q, XL Torso parts - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4W5GQZ-opQ, XL Kidney Section - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOo-aTzPJhY Type: T/MC Country: USA Contact: [email protected] or PM Tray on the FISD boards @Tray Kit: .090 ABS, untrimmed, ANH Derived. Helmet is screen derived. Armor similar to TE2 and AP but with some parts being different and others being modified. The left inner shin is a duplicate of the right outer shin. The arms (Bicep, forearm and shoulders) are the same, there is no unique left and right arm. The helmet comes with resin cast hovi mic tips, which are acceptable for EIB use, and all assembly material excluding paint. Comes with your choice of Smoked gray bubble lenses or flat dark green lenses. This is most comparable to AP with some slight changes. Availability: 3-4 months for delivery and sometimes sooner than that. Assembly: Seams are overlapping joints making it a reasonably easy build, though one can use finishing strips instead. Comments: The armor is ABS, not bright white and glossy like FX. Due to material thickness lines are a little softer than some other makers. Should shine well with Mr Sheen. NOTE: available in black too! Type: WTF (Walt) Country: USA Contact: Walt on FISD Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674/user/1145629985/ Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674 Kit: ABS, untrimmed, ANH derived Availability Current wait times are 6-8 weeks. Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. === ANH FAN SCULPT === Type: RT-Mod (RT) / RT-Panda Country: Canada Contact: [email protected] Kit: ABS, close trimmed, fan sculpt. Updated bucks for the majority of the armor and helmet in 2018 to meet Centurion level standards (separate ab button plate, kidney notches, etc). Availability: Currently about 8 month wait. Assembly: Parts are "close trimmed" (a thicker return edge is left on all parts for those seeking more accuracy for strapping brackets etc. Final trimming is far less work than "untrimmed off the buck" armor. Designed to be easy to put together (regarded as one of the easiest kits to assemble as all "halves of lumbs etc. line up to one another without problems). Designed for butt joined limbs with a formed ridge with cover strips. Some parts can be formed without ridges present. Helmet comes as a kit as of 2019. Options: ANH stunt, ESB hand armor Comments: Designed especially for taller/larger body types and has more capacity to fit these troopers (without shims) than most makes of armor. There are 2 sizes of back armor, 3 sizes of thighs, 2 sizes of shins / calves, and the ab / kidney will accommodate approx 40" waist without shims. The thighs are wider and can accomodate a wide range of sizes. Female troopers often order thighs / shins to accommodate wider hips etc. The armor and helmet are sculpted at 4% larger than an original kit. The difference is subtle but makes fitting/sizing much easier for taller/larger troopers (has been worn very easily by troopers from 6' to 6'5"). Type: AM (Armor Master) - Dave’s Darkside Depot Country: USA Contact: [email protected] or https://www.facebook.com/Daves-Darkside-Depot-1188080927989611 Kit: ABS. All body armor components including face piece and ear pieces are .090 ABS. The one piece dome/back is formed using .125 ABS, as this piece is formed over a rather deep mold and anything thinner can cause thin regions which can eventually crack or fracture. White .060 ABS blanks included to cut as cover-strips. TD clips, rubber gloves and black Nomex flight gloves, flexible hand guards and all Centurion level hardware included. Availability: Normally 4-6 weeks or less. Assembly: Comes trimmed out of the box, but you will still be required to adjust for proper fit to your body size. Good choice for large troopers, but can be cut down. Can be ordered completely pre-assembled for an additional fee. Comments: Chest and back molds have been updated to address past concerns, and are now acceptable to Centurion level. They are now including a custom, die-cut Imperial cog themed helmet liner for the helmets, mounting Velcro included. Hovi tips are professionally cast aluminum. Hero helmets are now available. Type: MTK (NOW SOLD by Imperial Surplus) Country: USA Contact: https://imperialsurplus.com/contact-us/ Website: https://imperialsurplus.com/product-category/armor/original-trilogy-armor/ Armor is made of .70 gauge (1.778 mm) satin gloss white ABS and will withstand the rigors of trooping. Kit comes trimmed for shipping and requires final trimming/fitting. Kit comes with: All ABS plastic required for assembly to include helmet, body parts and joining/cover strips. Helmet accessories include lens material, rubber S trim, Hovi tips, helmet decals (choose between ANH, ANH Sandy & ESB versions) screws, rivets, washers and screen mesh for the frown. Gloves This kit does not include: Blaster, under-suit, holster, boots, Velcro or any instructions but many of these items are available at trooperbay.com Kits can be built to Centurion level when following the correct CRL Availability: Kits generally available on request, spare parts also available and on hand. === ROTJ ARMOR === Type: CFO - note this is for ROTJ armor only (ideal for ROTJ, TK Commander, or Incinerator Troopers). Country: UK Contact: PM Sskunky on FISD Kit: ABS or HIPS untrimmed. Kits can come in lite, full, assembled and weathered please inquire for prices and custom orders. ABS is standard and screen accurate. We can make the armour in any colour HIPS with a 25% deposit. Kits come complete with all plastic parts. Helmets come with resin mic tips cast from an original, black rubber trims, decals and lenses all subject to availability and stock. Availability: Kits available at all times with approx 4 week turnaround time. We have a US distributor who will be able to ship kits within the USA. Assembly: Parts are trimmed and designed to be easy to put together - along with RT is the easiest kit to build. Comments: These suits are cast from original therefore there will be warps, lumps, bumps etc. present on the plastic. The original suits were made to fit actors in the region of 5'10" and 180lb.... there is some flexibility as with all armour which is down to assembly. This armour is no way sanitised or idealised, it is a true representation of what is seen on screen in STAR WARS "The Return Of The Jedi". Other Notes: Hand guards O2 canister/detonator detail and end caps, belt, knee belt and shoulder straps are own sculpt. Necessary/minimal sharpening was done to the moulds to attain the correct level of sharpness lost from the original fibreglass moulds obtained from Cameron Oakley. The original shape and contours are intact and the details and edges have been sharpened as documented in various threads on the FISD and other prop forums. === ROGUE ONE (Mandalorian / Obi Wan / Ahsoka / Enoch / Night Trooper) ARMOR === Type: Jimmiroquai Country: PI Contact: email [email protected] Kit: Kits are lightweight flexible fiberglass. Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: Fully trimmed and partially assembled, e.g. if it fits out of the box one can go straight to rigging and painting. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Type: 850 Armor Works Country: USA Contact: FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/205514516516535/ website: https://850armorworks.com/ email: [email protected] Kit: ABS plastic Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: No Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Potentials new options coming once available, tried and tested and feedback garnered from members. Imperial Surplus will have a kit available, combination ABS and Resin Cast CTPG Combo ABS and Resin cast Plus a possible option of 3D files for PYO Keep checking in for further updates === FIRST ORDER TFA / TLJ / TROS === Type: Jimmiroquai Country: PI Contact: email [email protected] Kit: Kits are lightweight flexible fiberglass. Can come with both TFA or TLJ details. Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: Untrimmed. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Type: Imperial Surplus Country: USA Contact: https://imperialsurplus.com/contact-us/ Website: https://imperialsurplus.com/product/first-order-stormtrooper/ Availability: Kits generally available on request, spare parts also available and on hand. Assembly: Untrimmed. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Type: WTF (Walt) Country: USA Contact: Walt on FISD Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674/user/1145629985/ Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/612005498911674 Kit: ABS Availability Current wait times are 6-8 weeks. Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Type: 850 Armor Works Country: USA Contact: FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/205514516516535/ website: https://850armorworks.com/ email: [email protected] Kit: ABS plastic Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: No Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Type: Denuo Novo Country: USA Contact: FB: https://www.facebook.com/Denuo_Novo website: https://www.denuonovo.com/collections/new-star-wars email: [email protected] Kit: ABS plastic Availability: PM to ask, varies Pre orders, pre built, spare parts and kit form available. Assembly: YES Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. First Order TK armor full vendors list available. HERE === PHASMA === Type: Jimmiroquai Country: PI Contact: email [email protected] Kit: Kits are lightweight flexible fiberglass. Can come with both TFA or TLJ details. Availability: PM to ask, varies Assembly: Untrimmed. Comments: No issues with quality or service reported to date. Type: Thorsson & Associates Workshop Country: PI Contact: Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile/100061258101660/ Website https://tandaworkshop.com/ Build https://protagonist4hire.blogspot.com/2019/03/building-captain-phasma-part-3-rigging.html Kit: Kits are fiberglass Availability: DM to ask, varies Assembly: Untrimmed. Comments: None to date === NO LONGER MADE === Type: TE2 Country: USA Contact: HDPblues on FISD Kit: HIPS, untrimmed, ANH derived Availability: None, since a long time. Best to look elsewhere. Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips, then painted. Comments: Helmet is considered very screen accurate. While he rarely makes armor anymore, he's a solid buy if you find any. Type: FX Availability: No longer made. Do not buy this armor - we list it only for posterity in case you pick up a suit second hand from a current Legion member. Kit: ABS, trimmed, fan sculpt. Comments: The armor can be made to be FISD EI acceptable for about $50 and an afternoon of work. The helmet is not acceptable by any Detachment's program, and many GML's are no longer allowing it to be accepted at the Legion level. Type: Older/Original AM (1.0) NE Country: USA Contact: [email protected] Kit: .090 gauge ABS - trimmed - Fan sculpt Availability: N/A Assembly: Butt joining required for the legs. Arms can be overlapped but trimming those overlaps off and butt joining is recommended. Comes trimmed out of the box, but you will still be required to trim for proper fit to your body size. Comments: An updated version of the older AM kits with a more accurate helmet and some other accessories. Best suited for the larger troopers who can have problems fitting into screen-sized kits. Comes in full or "lite" kits. Lite kits come without helmet, ABS cement or polish.

Greetings Troopers and Builders, Although I am not building a TK armor, I have decided to embark on an E-11 build because I have always loved this iconic blaster even though the Stormtroopers never seem to hit anything with it. The blaster will not be strictly based on any canon version so purists should just move along now. It will mainly be a display piece with some level of functionality; working folding stock, removable magazine, cocking bolt, etc. The documented parts below were as I received them, before I started working on them. To start off, I acquired most of the Sterling replica parts from Robert aka swpropman on eBay who makes beautiful, detailed casts in plastic. Even the textures of the original gun were perfectly replicated, so it was just a matter of sanding down the seam lines and weathering them. Not pictured here is his 38.1mm OD PVC tube. I am sure anyone reading this will know who Chris aka Field Marshal is. These are just a sample of his amazing productions, and I am now sorely tempted to order a few more parts to replace the plastic ones. This super accurate Hengstler Counter replica is from Dennis aka Blue Snaggletooth who has a sales thread here. Scope and counter rail from Tosche Traders. T-Tracks from WannaWanga.

I've literally been staring at your armor for the past 5 minutes and all I want to do is reach through the computer screen and push your ab and kidney together with my hands. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out why you can't get it to close. I feel like you should be able to. Can you not shorten the elastic anymore? I feel like if you could that should get rid of your alignment issue and then also close the gap more. No matter what I think you will get it figured out. I think with some tinkering with your elastics then you will get it to where you want it to be.

I wouldn't worry about that.

Since you're making adjustments please remove the paint from your ab snap. Reference photo

Have no fear Robert! I've had my Anovos kit for over a year and I've had no problems at all with it, and I've taken it to Centurion level. There are also numerous other TK's in my squad with the armor that are happy with it as well. I also received the same bit of 'attitude' when I initially told people where I purchased my armor from, which happens more than it should unfortunately. I think you'll see troopers tend to prefer the armor they own, which makes sense. Another factor (and this is just my opinion) is that when this armor first came out, it was quite a bit cheaper than other makers and obviously that would annoy folks who paid more. It also opened the door to a lot more TK's joining the ranks. The vast majority of troopers are happy about this, but you'll always find a few that don't feel the same way. Anyway, don't worry about anyone giving you a hard time and good luck with your build!

Thanks UKSWRATH so much will be taking the information in your poat abd applying it you will see me in the next couple of months submitting my request for centurion

POWER CYLINDER I reluctantly painted the power cylinder but with thinned black wash so the nice details still show through. FOLDING STOCK

BOLT ASSEMBLY

My apologize, life's been a bit crazy and I simply overlooked it. To answer your question yes full side views. We don't necessarily need a tape measure we're pretty good at judging distances through images.

Good luck buddy, hopefully mine will get the all clear also.

Hey Steve upon further review you'll need to reduce the kidney to ab gap before we can proceed. The gap has to be 1/2" or less, thanks Steve . You can either adjust the connecting straps between the two sections or you may need to add shims. Afterwards please post updated photos showing the corrections. We'll be here when you get back. The CRL states the following: For level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.

Hey Robert. Randy gave you a good idea of some issues. I know a few guys who have Anovos TKs and the major downsides are it appears to be more prone to cracking then other armors and the lack of replacement parts. Otherwise the armor itself is a nice set of armor. I gotta be honest, it appears to me that more people have their nose turned up to Anovos the company as opposed to their actual product. Anovos has left a bad taste in a lot of people's mouths so I think because of this it is also getting the stigma that the product is bad. I've only had one dealing with them and it was buying their Tie Helmet. I had no issues with the company nor the product at this point. So I have no ill will. But I would have no fear if I were you. Just take care of your TK and you should be fine.

WE FEAR CHANGE! Just kidding. I don't own it but it's not a bad kit. A few friends have it so I've seen it in hand. It's thin in spots but if tou take care of it you should be fine. Keep eye out for stress cracks in return edges. Another downer is no spare parts. And it would be a good guess that there won't be any offered. So that's not so bad considering you didn't wait for it. So just take your time and be sure before you cut. Hope to see you aim for the Advanced Tactics section. A TK looks best when they look like they walked off the screen. Ask any questions. We're here to help. Good Luck Future Trooper!

Decided not to redo the left ear going to leave it as it is ( well maybe just a little bit more trimming ) Moved onto cutting out the right ear and that took about the same time. No photos of the finished ears on the helmet, still not sure if I am done trimming. One of the rewarding things about doing a project like this is discovering the nuances like how different the left and right ears are or the unsymmetrical face plate, you don’t pick that up watching the movie. As a break from the ears fitted the split rivets in the kidney and ab plate. The rivets got a coat of primer and white from a spray can. The Hovi mix tips appear to be resin casted so gave them a quick clean with isopropyl alcohol before paint. Costume reference library states “black or painted black” and after looking at some reference photos decided to leave the very front and inside the original cast colour so masked off the mesh and front with some masking tape. Couple of coats of rustoleum satin black and the tips are done. On to the helmet accent painting. Originally was going to use decals and even purchased a set but decided to paint it by hand. The worst that can happen is I stuff it up in which case can put the decal over the top. Before painting marked up some reference lines with a pencil, this is the Vocoder but did the same with the Traps, ears and frown. Humbrol Black (No. 21) the vocoder, trap borders and ears. Humbrol Grey (No. 5) on the frown and traps, no reference line for the grey on the trap instead just tried to keep the black line about 1.5mm thick. Photo of the frown half done. Second coat of Grey done. Still to do are the Blue tube strips, vertical Black lines on the traps and rank stripe on the ears.

Going to have to agree with the masses. I have used VELCRO on day one since I have been trooping. It has not let me down once.

Some also use a short strip of white elastic glued to the inside of the calves that stretches under the boots like a stirrup.

If you have a Doopydoo's kit, the possibilities are endless... it all depends on how much time you would like to invest, and money, of course! Waiting on your armor kit is the perfect time to work on your blaster, and you can re-use many of the tools. For basic approval, an actual spring is not needed, but even though you are not headed for Centurion, you can still make your E-11 look incredible. I suggest taking a look at Tino's E-11 finishing kit: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-insured-shipping-and-paypal/ For the price, you will not get a better product to turn a DD kit into a work of art. Below are a few pics of my DD resin E-11 using Tino's kit. If I can be of any help, just ask. -----------

Gary's solution of Velcro on the boots and shins is a widely used one, and rightfully so, it's simple and it works great. Use "Industrial Velcro".

e11 retaining rings completed and ready

i use velcro on the back side of my boots but it does the same thing. Mine is not AP but the T/MC armor, basically the same armor as AP.

Personally, I do use a small strip of Velcro on the front of my boot, so that it keeps the shin from twisting. Since it is always covered, no one knows it is there.

Looks awesome!

Hi guys, yeah sorry, this thread is one more photobucket victim. I've updated a few of my threads but not all of them. Cheers

I think I got the shirt because it took much longer than anticipated to pull my kit, not as a standard item. KB said he‘d put in a riot shield kit to compensate, but this is what was in the box. Well, one less thing I can break while building it. By the way, no news here. I spent a few fun days overseas in the US and didn’t get to do armor work lately. I was planning to work on the armor tonight, but I can‘t figure out what to do next. I‘m also still waiting for the quote for the replacement yoke. Oh well. Dullest build thread ever. Sorry guys.

thanks . yeah its about time i did . not enough hours in the day

RS is a great armor maker, the helmet will do you well. That being said, I don't know if any helmet will be comfortable... vision in these is awful!

A big afternoon of wet sanding yesterday and then the small job of applying some decals to finished pieces today. It's nice to see some black and white together - it's starting to look like a trooper kit!

And here ( fingers crossed ) is the completed blaster. I still have the original scope on as I have not had the time to build the one I have of Brian's which is a number 5 scope, and a very well produced kit. Marc

It's been quite a busy few days, first off was final weathering to the scope. I wanted to get the effect of seeing some primer on the wear ahead of the brass coming through. I painted the brass before applying another layer of primer in specific places and then hit it with another coat of black. A little more weathering And then it was onto replacing the screws I then moved onto the counter. I foun this online for a couple of quid. Removed the casing Hollowed out the counter and fitted the reels I will finish this just before its installed I also replaced the fron crosshead screw along with the black detail (sorry, I don't know what it's called!) on the front after filing the original one down, as it was in a bit of a bad shape. Whilst waiting for things to dry I decided to work on the nut on the grip. I didn't fancy filling around the nut once installed. So I cut the lower part off and mounted it on a washer Then onto the working end clip Next it was back to the stock. I had to custom build the rear hinge of the extension tube And then onto the front The rough mock of the extension tube with hinges attached Next up was to figure out how to get the catch to move when opening the handle. I found that this method for the lever worked. All components cleaned up and ready for assembly I decided that the detail at the front of the handle had to go, so I sanded them off. I cut down some rivet nutserts, and fitted them to the handle. The same decision was made to the blind rivets on the pivot detail too. Anyway, we now have one working, self locking stock  Marc My Wips... http://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61082 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/38021-CTID's-RWA-ANH-Stunt-WIP......-501st-Here-we-go! http://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60937 http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/38731-CTID's-Doopy's-E-11-Build

After completing the belt, I was pretty much done with all of the armor (minus the shins and knee plates) I was able to try on all the armor that i had done, and i gotta tell you, I geeked out pretty hard when i looked in the mirror Jim's armor is a work of art. The ability to sculpt something like this by hand is truly incredible. I believe that this armor will stand the test of time longer than flimsy ABS will. I know i'm forgetting some stuff in this build thread... I still need to show you guys how i attached the chest plate on and some other random stuff. So here you go: a 90% done Jimmiraquois First Order Stormtrooper V3 I got dressed on my own and didn't have anyone to take my picture at the time... better, full body, outdoor pics to come once i'm 100% done I definitely put my TD on crooked in these pics and i need to still add a snap or velcro to the cod piece to keep my belt in place. I also wont have that gap between the chest and back piece once i have a helper giving me a hand. putting the TD on crooked probably had something to do with that too All and all, I think i look pretty badass!

#02 - Resin Repairs If a part is bent or warped (for example the arms of the folding stock) you can heat it up and carefully bring it to the correct shape. You must ensure that it maintains the proper shape while it cools down. To heat the part, you can use an oven or hot water bath for larger parts. Hair dryers or heat guns are ideal to warm up a specific spot of a part. How you heat the part depends on the part's size, and the temperature and time required to make the correction. If you use heat to alter a part, the most important ground rule is to start at a low temperature, and increase it until you are able to make the correction and not any higher. If you receive a broken part, you can fix it using super glue/CA glue. For additional support you might want to add one (or more) metal pins to the part during the repair process. A close inspection of your parts will surely reveal air bubbles (or tiny holes) in some parts. These and other defects can be filled up or removed by using modeling clay (like "Green Stuff" or "Bondo Cream"). One (or both) will be used during your build if you are doing any modifications anyway, so it is best to have it on hand. The major difference is the consistency of the two, as the Bondo product is (as the name says) a cream, while the "Green Stuff" is a 2-component modeling clay. When you start to make these repairs, consider whether the defect could be used in your weathering process to indicate some battle damage or wear if you alter it and paint it appropriately.