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I recommend using the 20 mm x 3mm size, Bryon. Anything smaller/thinner and you may have to double up on them. I am including a link (below) on where to get them. Also, here are a few hints when using them: 1. First, these things are CRAZY strong., so keep them well separated during use. They will actually jump several inches to reconnect, and can pinch the crap out of your fingers if they get caught in between them. 2. To separate them, slide them apart.with your thumb. You can break off a fingernail if you try to pry them. 3. Since they are not made from solid metal, they can (and will) shatter if dropped or allowed to "jump" too far to connect. 4. Cover each one in blue painter's tape or the like. This will keep them from scratching your armor. 5. When removing them after the glue has dried... slide them off. Like Brian mentioned, you really can't have too many. For the ends of the cover strips, you can use clamps, but for the centers these type of magnets are really the only way to go. ----------

My replica Hengstler is coming along nicely

Hi! Sorry for the long absence from the forum. Was swamped with Shore and Deathtrooper stuff on fb, the rpf, and other forums. Now working on the R1TK: Yes i am! Was recently approved as well: TX-82480: Will be working on that after we finish the R1TK

The cod rivet is brass but the snaps are silver.

Awesome thank you very much.

Hello and welcome aboard

Congratulations Juan!!! Welcome to Centurion!!! A hug Bro! Enhorabuena Juan!!! Bienvenido al nivel centurion, te lo mereces por el gran trabajo que has hecho Bro. Un abrazo.

Welcome to FISD Olaf! Yes you can, and glad to see you're aiming for Centurion!

I am going by 20 years of studying stormtrooper armour YAY!! It worked

Awesome. Thanks, Paul!

Perfect! Although technically still missing the correct inner right half, you have the WTF shins assembled correctly

Going to have two numbers availible for the display

Just look at the size difference between the two sides. The shorter two halves go together and the longer two halves go together. On a side note, the RS comes with two outer left halves and two outer right halves. The RS does not have any inner halves.

paint thinner and a scrapper

Hi Sarah Andrew or myself will be with your shortly. While you wait could you please post the following photos. Thigh Ammo pack attachment (inside) Cod and Butt plate attachment (inner and outer) Blaster (left side) Helmet (left and back) Shoulder bridge (left and right close up) Thank you

Good luck Sarah! Great to have another HWT Centurion roaming New England soon!

Sarah, your HWT looks awesome, i noticed your 501st Legion link comes up as a diffrent trooper.

Just so you know (and this doesn't affect anything) but you have the shins assembled incorrectly. I am not sure if the WTF comes with a doubled outer left part but I can clearly see you have a perfectly assembled left shin worn on the right leg. You can tell by how the back of the knee slopes down which should be towards the inside of your legs. You can see your right shin slopes outwards. Just a heads up for any other WTF guys who might be building their armour at the moment.

Yes. If it's the right thigh it's not an issue, though I suggest strengthening the joint by adding a interior cover strip if needed.

Hi Kjaskaar and welcome to FISD! So after reading your post I have one question to ask. Are you hoping to join the 501st or are you just looking for a costume to wear around the neighborhood? If you are looking to join the 501st then you need to stay away from the rubies armor. Major work would need to be done to it to have it 501st approvable. You will end up spending WAY more for a Rubies to have it 501st approved then you would to have most any other set of armor. I know this forum may seem overwhelming to a new comer but trust me when I say that research is key when it comes to purchasing armor. As you said your budget is going to be around $1000. You wouldn't want to flush that grand down a toilet would you? If anything I highly recommend you read through all 44 pages of this thread paying close attention to the first post (which is updated constantly). There is so much helpful information contained in these 44 pages that you would be able to make a reasonable purchase soon after. My last question for you is where are you located? DA Props AKA BFA AKA The Shed of Glittering Delights is based in the UK. If you are in the UK then you have that option along with RS Props, Troopermaster, and RWA. They are all top of the line choices and I know that RS and Troopermaster offer sets built completely. If you are based in the US you can look at them as well as some of the others listed such as ATA, WTF, MTK, AP, Anovos, etc. If you are interested head over to the New Member area and tell us a little more about yourself.

Speaking of which my new Praetorian R1 blaster should arrive today. Cant wait to compare.

Truth - thanks from those of us not on FB.

Just placed my order Brent! Looking forward to it. Michael

Way to go, Juan!!! Your Centurion certificate has been issued, brother!

Done! If i were taller i would probably pull off a kneeling shot and be a lot more mobile. I can sit down though:

Like i mentioned before, i was a bit hesitant about making a helmet for this because the black series bucket is cheap and can be fixed with some mods. That being said, i now agree that wow, that was a heck of a lot of mods to do and the casual armor builder would probably have a hard time making it look nice afterwards. After my personal bucket was modified, it was so heavy and it was difficult to get everything to blend together seamlessly. In the end, we had to make a waste mold of the modifed bucket, cast in it plaster, and clean it and mod it some more. So here's the bucket, which was based on a BS, heavily modified. (To be honest, i'm still hesitant about releasing this because we usually sculpt stuff completely from scratch). Changes include the ff: 1) Larger and lower brow 2) Closed seams while leaving them a bit well defined 3) Cleaned up and sharpened vents, traps, tears, etc 4) Slightly smaller mouth 5) Made the seams of the chin section more prominent and well defined 6) Got rid of the batt compartment and speaker seams 7) Extended the chin bulbs inward 8) got rid of the battery compartment protruding into the back of the helmet 9) made bottom trim continuous 10) sculpted a new, more tubular vocoder Here it is painted up: It actually came out a bit lighter than the BS. Pics in armor, hopefully tomorrow.

http://starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-comparisons.htm

Done with the chest, back, straps, side extensions. Here are the first casts: Thigh ammo belt, cod and butt are done as well. Currently molding the ab section, thighs and shins.

Updates! Made the side extensions for the chest and back. Made sure to add allowance. Made the shoulder straps too. Finished the thighs and now working on the shins: Like the DT, there will be an option for regular and tall. Started the knee ammo strip as well

Updates! We've molded the chest and back to see how they fit with the Ab section and also so we can work on the rib/side pieces. These will have lots of allowance to accommodate a wide range of girths. The Ab section will be cast in one piece, just like our FOTK or Shoretrooper. Split in the back will be covered by the back plate. Do take note the the ab section is sized to a 39" waist by default and can still be brought in just by cutting the back. So it can be much slimmer than in the pics. The chest and back was also positioned a bit too high relative to the ab section. At least it gives an idea of the upper fit limit height wise. We've started on the Thighs as well. These will be cast in one piece. If one needs to shorten it, just trim from the top. If it needs to be slimmer, the idea is to cut along the coverstrip of one or both sides and the flexible fiberglass can be made to overlap. Similar to what we've done with the Death trooper and FOTK thighs: And in case people are wondering about the flexible fiberglass material: --------------- Input and feedback very much welcome!

It actually appears to me that the "ridge" or cap piece around the top of the shin is a separate piece that is attached to the top of the shins. If that is the case, I imagine that doing it that way allowed for better customization of the fit of the armor to the individual trooper. Thoughts? Does anyone else see what I'm seeing, or do you see something different?