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What have I gotten myself into?


Zinfer
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Those lines look ok to me?
I was going to suggest that you copy over the measurements from the right as a starting point. I’d tape that bad boy up using those lines you’ve marked and try it on. As someone said earlier, they weren’t made to match and quite often people end up with one leg bigger than the other. My right thigh came out slightly bigger.


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First cut to the outer Left Thigh. Same process only reverse side. Compared measurements with Right Thigh. After the cut, Gaffers tape used to secure it with the drawn cutline of the inner thigh. Out to the arcade for a first fitting.

 

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Might actually be ready for a final cut tonight.

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Alright, well tonight I feel that I have finally finished working on the Thigh fittings. The right thigh has been freed of clamps and magnets. The left thigh is now under pressure of clamps and magnets after the final trimmings. I will do a final fit of both around 3am tomorrow. A full 24 hours later. Next up is the Shins. These I would very much desire a tight slim muscular fit. So alot of work will be going into the pant and shoe fittings. I need to pick up a good boot horn to get them on and off quickly. Any suggestions? I've absolutely NO experience in fitting TK shins, so any help would be appreciated.

 

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8 hours ago, Short4ATrooper said:

Those lines look ok to me?
I was going to suggest that you copy over the measurements from the right as a starting point. I’d tape that bad boy up using those lines you’ve marked and try it on. As someone said earlier, they weren’t made to match and quite often people end up with one leg bigger than the other. My right thigh came out slightly bigger.


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I did exactly that.  I am hoping for a perfect match.  Fitted in between and made the final cuts last night.  I could possibly start on elastics, but I really want to finish the shins.  Then I can concentrate on length and distance of elastics.  Richie suggested near pinching.  I am more prone to Robs suggestions and by the way, God Bless Rob, Simon and crew this evening.  I hope they didn't lose to much although I have no images of their studio condition.  Glad all are safe and unharmed.  Mold loss would be a devastation.

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vor 9 Stunden schrieb Zinfer:

I did exactly that.  I am hoping for a perfect match.  Fitted in between and made the final cuts last night.  I could possibly start on elastics, but I really want to finish the shins.  Then I can concentrate on length and distance of elastics.  Richie suggested near pinching.  I am more prone to Robs suggestions and by the way, God Bless Rob, Simon and crew this evening.  I hope they didn't lose to much although I have no images of their studio condition.  Glad all are safe and unharmed.  Mold loss would be a devastation.

As read elsewhere they luckily had their master molds offsite. That way they can at least restore their business

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As it’s your first build, I’d go with E6000. It’ll hold fine and for me, I had to reposition a lot of the snaps which would be tougher to do with any kind of super glue.

 

The other thing to be wary of with stronger glue is that some of them can react with the metal poppers and cause a heat reaction which can melt the plastic.

 

I used the same glue I used for the rest of my build and backed each snap with a small square of duct tape, preventing it from coming into direct contact with the glue just to be safe.

 

If you’re not using snaps/poppers and glueing the elastic straight onto the armour, I’d definitely use E6000. You will change the strapping lengths multiple times to get a good fit, I guarantee. If you’re going to be ripping elastics off and re-glueing, you’ll want to make it as easy as possible.

 

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2 hours ago, Short4ATrooper said:

As it’s your first build, I’d go with E6000. It’ll hold fine and for me, I had to reposition a lot of the snaps which would be tougher to do with any kind of super glue.

 

The other thing to be wary of with stronger glue is that some of them can react with the metal poppers and cause a heat reaction which can melt the plastic.

 

I used the same glue I used for the rest of my build and backed each snap with a small square of duct tape, preventing it from coming into direct contact with the glue just to be safe.

 

If you’re not using snaps/poppers and glueing the elastic straight onto the armour, I’d definitely use E6000. You will change the strapping lengths multiple times to get a good fit, I guarantee. If you’re going to be ripping elastics off and re-glueing, you’ll want to make it as easy as possible.

 

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True.  Yes I haven't considered any refitting after the armor is done.

 

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Ok, now this is a whole new level of difficulty. I can't tape it to get a good look at it. Can't try it on and look at the joint. This looks like a true cut n' Pray thing. Wonder if there's a better way of doing this? Sizing the Shins. I also don't understand why the back of the shins is all out of kilter, one side up one side down. Scratching my head on how to best go about this.

 

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So the shins are the same method as the thighs. Overlap to fit you, tape them off and mark them up. It’s easier if you lap the left side over the right for the left leg, and the right side over the right for the right leg as that’s how the cover strips will over lap when they’re finished.

 

Make sure you do all test fitting on the shins with both your undersuit and your boots. You won’t get an accurate fit without the boots as you’ll need to see how far down your leg they can go.

 

For actually fitting them and getting a look - use that top ridge to keep the overlap straight, and to see them I used a mirror. Then it’s a bit awkward but mark the overlap while they’re taped to you as you’ll have to i tape them to get them off.

 

Once you’ve got your overlap, the process is the same as the back of the thighs. Make sure you have an even amount of that top ridge either side of your cut line and go straight down to your overlap mark at the bottom.

 

Regarding them not matching up, align them at the top. Don’t worry if one is longer than the other at the bottom, you can trim any excess off once they’re finished.

 

 

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Just watch when you want to trim them at the rear, they do twist to the left and if you straight cut them they won't look right, I left more material on the left bottom piece on the rear and less on the right.

 

Note in the below image and the twisted appearance on the bottom left sides

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Thighs are looking good, Rodney. :-)

The RS shins don’t normally meet at the rear top ridge until the rear fixings are in place. It seems that their parts are a little wonky. You can also see the offset in the RS Tutorials. However, they do have flex so you can use your rear fixings to help twist them back to help with alignment (either Velcro or elastic and bra hooks).

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Yea this is gonna be a weird cut on the shins as you can't really afford to take anything off the left side bottom.  If anything it appears it actually needs more material on the left side bottom.  The right side bottoms appear to begin the arch upwards for the heel.  Looks difficult to find or develop a good centerline.

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15 hours ago, Short4ATrooper said:

As it’s your first build, I’d go with E6000. It’ll hold fine and for me, I had to reposition a lot of the snaps which would be tougher to do with any kind of super glue.

 

The other thing to be wary of with stronger glue is that some of them can react with the metal poppers and cause a heat reaction which can melt the plastic.

 

I used the same glue I used for the rest of my build and backed each snap with a small square of duct tape, preventing it from coming into direct contact with the glue just to be safe.

 

If you’re not using snaps/poppers and glueing the elastic straight onto the armour, I’d definitely use E6000. You will change the strapping lengths multiple times to get a good fit, I guarantee. If you’re going to be ripping elastics off and re-glueing, you’ll want to make it as easy as possible.

 

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I'm a little divided on the E6000 for arm elastics.  After performing it, it's seemed like it was and is giving it more time to soak into the fabric into places you don't want it to.  Zap a Gap plus the accelerator would have stopped it spreading more effectively.  Add to that I'd be done today with both arms.  I don't know.  Good points and bad points.  Just doing one arm segment each day with E6000 to maintain control over it.

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Hope you guys enjoy this as much as I have building it.  Not quite there yet, but it's coming along.  Thanks everybody that's helped me along the way.   Most especially to RS Prop Masters for this fantasic Kit Build!

 

https://d.tube/#!/v/zinferrenfriz11/Qmeynrbi9fxukDmzFWzbwQJ1DiDNt6U3feufpqXkipgWyv

Edited by Zinfer
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Well I could have used this a while back when I was fitting the shoulders. New addition to the arcade thanks to Anita Bible Burris for the heads up on the Macy's going out of business sale. I need to find a head for him.

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Wow! I have so far to go yet. Belt is probably going to have to be replaced/reworked. I think something is up with the codpiece elastics. Chest riding up too high. So many issues I can see.  Can't get the belt snapped as the snaps are in between the hollow parts.

 

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The arcade needs a good mopping and sweeping.

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