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gmrhodes13

TKC Request for CRL Updates Thread

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24 minutes ago, DTCorvus said:

I am so glad that I was pointed to this thread. I had to go back and look over my helmet and make sure is was within the new regs and I’m pretty sure it is.

 

I’m going to need to print these new crl changes up and include them with my Anovos kit instructions. This was I can refer to them while doing my build.

 

It looked like I will have to know off the piece I added for the 5button strip and add it to the top portion so that my 5 button strip will be at the proper proportion with the middle button plate.

The CRL's have not been updated as yet and these are suggested changes and are being reviewed. It really depends how far along your build is, if you are nearly finished then it will be appraised with the current CRL language, I'd say it could be at least another month or so before any of these may come into effect ;) Always pays to keep an eye on the CRL's when building a costume as you are doing :D 

 

If you have a good look at the references of the ab you will notice the smaller plate bottom button aligns with the bottom button on the larger ab plate and the smaller plate top button aligns one higher that the larger plate,  so you may need to adjust as you have mentioned ;) 

 

Nice work on the helmet, if I was to be picky I'd say your stripe on the front of the helmet should be a little thicker on the bottom near the hovi and also upwards, there also appears to be a definite curve between the base of the stripe and up to the corner of the eye but that depends on which reference material you compare it too. 

 

 

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I will add though, if you CAN make the changes to follow the proposed new CRL go for it. Your armor will be future proof AND more accurate.

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We have not received anymore feedback so we are just about set, there are a couple of things I would like to discuss first.

 

A: How true to the game do we want to be, some have commented privately that they would prefer the knee ammo strip to kept at the same placement as OTTK's and not higher above as shown in references. The drop boxes are also positioned towards the end of the belt. I can understand this especially if you wanted to convert an old set of OTTK armor to a TKC. BUT this also brings up should the ab side rivets also me changed to match a OTTK?

 

 

B: I have also noticed the plastic section of the belt is a lot longer than standard OTTK's but I doubt any armor makers are making them to the same length, additionally the outside square covers are positioned close to the ends of the belts. So again the question is how true to the game do you think it should be

 

References:

rdJ9hVz.png

 

Do we want to closely match the game but also incorporate realistic TK items ie standard belt, knee ammo placement etc.

 

Or

 

Do we want to match the game 100%

 

Thoughts?

 

Be interested in your opinions @magni, @giskard8 & of course also from our DO's ;) 

 

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First Thanks for seeing this to the end Glen:duim: I'm sure this research will maybe lead you to make your next costume! That would be what? #30 something:laugh1:

 

As for your first point I agree with you totally with keeping it towards OTTK heritage. When I did mine I thought alot about the knee pack. Should I go OT or try it up high. I clamped it and set it on table and looked at it for a few days and concluded I'd go original location. The factors for me was why would it be different on just his armor? I don't think fan's would really notice and the power cells are closer and longer in reference and we have OT style so......

I still stand the Ab rivets should be as in reference and also matching kidney rivets added to CRL. Making that really an easy mod to convert to TKC. Which makes for another option then going Sandy.(I love my Sandy Peeps!:peace:) just keeping in house options available!;)

 

The belt is a tough one for the extra length. Most makers dont leave what you really need. My WTF was almost 2". My RT could do it. Rob gave like 4". Maybe in Blue Centurion requirement it could be added if armor supports it tabs should be longer to match game closer with "*". Besides that keep boxes at edge and maybe note cloth belt favors top of plastic portion with extra on bottom.

 

That's about it for me. Looking foward to seeing others thoughts:popcorn:

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Thank you, Glen.

 

Couldn’t find the right words to describe the effort you put into compiling this, in such details and depth. I wish I was as thorough as you are when I first start researching for my build.

 

As Randy pointed out, I too lean towards the OT TK heritage for the Knee Belt / Ammo Belt. Yes, to me the TK Commander is different (and the TK Incinerator for that matters), but I still want it to be in somewhat unison went standing beside a squad of OT TK.

 

A lot has changed since the release of PC version of “The Force Unleash”. We have seen figures and busts, big and small released (as secondary visual references). The new DICE “Battlefront” series gave us many references of the game style TK. I theorize the developers can go full ANH/ESB style but they chose to honor the “tradition” of going ROTJ-ish for game characters. Hence is it perfectly logical to follow the new in game model for high definition details for these game-born characters.

 

I think the proposed CRL change is not a 100% “game” or 100% “screen look” thing; instead this is a “Best of both worlds” solution that will make TKC build easier to follow and much more achievable for a higher standard, for both new builders or conversions of existing set.

I too will look into my set and apply some of these changes.

Edited by giskard8
typo
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With all this fantastic input and Glen's diligent research, I think we are getting close to nailing this down.  At this point, perhaps we should think about making a complete, detailed list of proposed changes and set up a voting thread to get a final consensus. after that, the CRLs could be updated.  We would also need a volunteer to model for a new CRL photo which should reflect the changes.  That person would also supply high res photos for the various components of the costume.  My vote at this point would be Arthur.  Even though he is already a level 3 TKC, he is willing to make adjustments to comply with the new requirements, and has a great eye for detail.  :salute:

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Thanks for the feedback guys, we agree on most of the changes so I don't think a vote would be needed on every one of them, but please let me know if you disagree or I have missed anything?

 

Those that have a question mark over them are those which could be modified making the TKC a little closer to what we see on OTTK's and not necessarily to the designers impression so not 100% game accurate.

 

I will show alternate wording in purple if you could please give your preference to either green or purple on each of those.

 

They are as follows:

Abdomen Armor: GREEN or PURPLE

Kidney Posterior Armor: GREEN or PURPLE

Belt: GREEN or PURPLE

Thigh Armor: GREEN or PURPLE

Holster: GREEN or PURPLE

 

 

Suggested changes are in green. Alternative changes are in purple

 

Helmet
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey.
  • Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar.
  • Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
  • Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • Blue stripe detail shall be present on the right side of the helmet, starting from the back of the helmet, and continued on to the bottom of the face (stripe tapers to a point as it goes down the face).
  • Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.
    • Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only.
    • Not three.
  • Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
  • Helmet and details/paint is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
  • Blue stripe continues over brow trim
  • Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.

 

 

Shoulder Straps
  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. REMOVE

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%.
  • Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).
  • These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).    REMOVE

 

Upper Arm Armor
  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both biceps (one to the front and one on the side).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.
  • Biceps/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

Forearm Armor
  • Forearms are fully closed.
  • Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both Forearms (one to the front and one on the side).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Forearms/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.
  • Forearms use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.      REMOVE

 

Hand Plates

 

ANH

TK_anh_stunt_handplates.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Hand plates are ANH styled, mounted securely of the back of the glove, As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
  •  
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, and permanently affixed to rubber gloves (no straps).

 

Back Armor
  • Back plate contains a "O II" design.
  • A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The Back plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.
  • AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version.

 

Abdomen Armor
  • Ab plate buttons shall be all black.
  • Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB.
  • A blue stripe shall be present on the ab section and stops underneath the belt area. The blue stripe is wide at the bottom and narrows toward the top, to match up to the blue Y-Shaped detail of the chest plate.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Ab plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate.
  • Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate)  . All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons.
  • There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white.
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate. REMOVE
  • Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons (fifth button must align one button higher than the top button of the larger button plate)  . All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons.
  • There can be either 2 or 3 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 15-25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 15-25mm above the top of the belt and 10-20mm from the side seam, painted white.
  •  

 

Kidney & Posterior Armor
  • A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
  • The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The edges of the hip area are rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB posterior armor).
  • Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate.  REMOVE
  • There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mmfrom the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white.
  • Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners)
  • Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners)
  • There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab.
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate.  REMOVE
  • There can be either 2 or 3 rivets on either side of the ab, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 15-25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 15-25mm above the top of the belt and 10-20mm from the side seam, painted white.
  • Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners)
  • Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners)
  • There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab.

 

 

 

Belt
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes are either grey or white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt.
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes are either grey or white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt.
  • Belt can be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
    • Leather and vinyl are not accurate.
  • There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
  • The center square button is not accurate.
  • Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.
  • Drop boxes are closed in the back.
  • The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white.

 

Thermal Detonator

ROTJ

5V3Xxcm.png

 

Or

 

Game

DrFQ84b.png

 

  • (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt.
  • Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
    • The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.
  • The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
  • The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
  • The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
  • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version.
    • The ANH/ESB style is not allowed.

 

Thigh Armor
  • Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
  • The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh,
  • The outside half of the right thigh shall be blue with two white semi-horizontal stripes near the top.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Thighs/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable.        REMOVE
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.          REMOVE
  • Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.         REMOVE
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references.
  • The thigh ammo belt is NOT rounded off like ANH.
  • The thigh ammo is glued and has NO rivets.
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable.        REMOVE
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.          REMOVE
  • Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.         REMOVE
  • The thigh ammo belt can be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references or attached to the thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge..
  • The thigh ammo belt can either be straight or rounded off like ANH.
  •  
  •  
  •  

 

Lower Leg Armor
  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net
  • Only the outside half of the right greave shall be blue.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Greaves/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Lower Legs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.  REMOVE

 

Boots
  • Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
  • Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
  • Flat sole with a short heel.
  • No buckles or laces.
  • Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
    • Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  • Both boots shall have two blue stripes painted, curving across the top of the foot.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • There is no seam present on the front of the boot.
  • Boots are lightly scuffed.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The two stripes curving over the boots are accurate in proportion to official references.

 

Holster

OPTIONAL:

Holster

  • Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material
  • Holster is worn on the left of the belt
  • Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners).
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material
  • Holster is worn on the left of the belt
  • Holster can either be affixed by two black loops over the belt or attached via straps behind the belt using fasteners already present

 

 

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Another stellar job, Glen!  

Here are a few of my thoughts:

1.  Keep the thigh ammo belt squared off.

2.  Keep the drop boxes all gray.

3.  Flexible hand plates must be permanently affixed to the gloves (no straps).

4.  Specify rivet size/type on ab and kidney.  (I suggest keeping it the same as ANH, 5/16 split rivets).

5.  Specify ear screw style as in level 3 ANH CRL.

 

As most of you know I am a big proponent of continuity, so I'm of the feeling that there should be minimal "options", i.e. rounded OR squared kidney/posterior, drop boxes gray OR white, etc.  I realize that the different sources for the images show various styles, but imho we should set one standard for future TKCs to go by and stick with it.  Just my 2 credit's worth.

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On 9/4/2018 at 3:07 AM, gmrhodes13 said:

 

 

 

 

I did find the following image and after Tony "ukswrath" had enlarged it you can see there is an overlap

 

velM9Mx.jpg

 

 

ESB hand plates used on some screen grabs.

 

gPCL4l8.jpg

 

 

ESB style holster on the left side, with loops over belt

 

 

*Note third image is a sideshow fig.

 

 

Only 4 buttons on smaller ab plate on some not 5

 

ffoyBT6.png

 

 

b2Bn8SV.jpg

 

 

 

 

j70atig.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Didn't want to be THAT guy, but you should hold up a minute on all of this. You can't use any of these images as official reference. These are fan-made skin mods for Star Wars Battlefront. And a screengrab from Gerry's Mod? The only game the Stormtrooper Commander officially appeared in is Star Wars: The Force Unleashed. Therefore you should only be using assets from that game to make decisions on CRL changes. 

Edited by SolidScrafty

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3 hours ago, SolidScrafty said:

Didn't want to be THAT guy, but you should hold up a minute on all of this. You can't use any of these images as official reference. These are fan-made skin mods for Star Wars Battlefront. And a screengrab from Gerry's Mod? The only game the Stormtrooper Commander officially appeared in is Star Wars: The Force Unleashed. Therefore you should only be using assets from that game to make decisions on CRL changes. 

Thanks Mike yes Arthur pointed out earlier some of the reference where mods and has been edited ;) 

 

I have also been told that there are differences depending on what platform the game was, and also in other games.

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11 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Another stellar job, Glen!  

Here are a few of my thoughts:

1.  Keep the thigh ammo belt squared off.

2.  Keep the drop boxes all gray.

3.  Flexible hand plates must be permanently affixed to the gloves (no straps).

4.  Specify rivet size/type on ab and kidney.  (I suggest keeping it the same as ANH, 5/16 split rivets).

5.  Specify ear screw style as in level 3 ANH CRL.

 

As most of you know I am a big proponent of continuity, so I'm of the feeling that there should be minimal "options", i.e. rounded OR squared kidney/posterior, drop boxes gray OR white, etc.  I realize that the different sources for the images show various styles, but imho we should set one standard for future TKCs to go by and stick with it.  Just my 2 credit's worth.

Thanks Joseph, I have added in 3 to 5, I do think I've seen more white drop boxes than grey but I will have another look through images. Hopefully Arthur or Randy will their thoughts about the ammo belt and other options

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Changes made removing any mod references.

 

If I could have both @magniand @giskard8 have a last read through and give me your thoughts.

 

Ultimately any changes would have to go through Paul first and may not even be included.

 

I will show alternate wording in purple if you could please give your preference to either green or purple on each of those.

 

They are as follows:

Belt: GREEN or PURPLE

Thigh Armor: GREEN or PURPLE

Holster: GREEN or PURPLE

 

 

Suggested changes are in green. Alternative changes are in purple

 

Helmet
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are grey.
  • Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Ears shall have a black horizontal anchor-like detail on each side of the ear bar.
  • Frown is painted grey and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black.
  • Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • Blue stripe detail shall be present on the right side of the helmet, starting from the back of the helmet, and continued on to the bottom of the face (stripe tapers to a point as it goes down the face).
  • Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references.
    • Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only.
    • Not three.
  • Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
  • Helmet and details/paint is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
  • Blue stripe continues over brow trim
  • Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.

 

 

Shoulder Straps
  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. REMOVE

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%.
  • Shoulder straps are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).
  • These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).    REMOVE

 

Upper Arm Armor
  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both biceps (one to the front and one on the side).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.
  • Biceps/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).

 

Forearm Armor
  • Forearms are fully closed.
  • Two blue vertical stripes shall be present on both Forearms (one to the front and one on the side).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Forearms/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.
  • Forearms use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.      REMOVE

 

Hand Plates

 

ANH

TK_anh_stunt_handplates.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Hand plates are ANH styled, mounted securely of the back of the glove, As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.
  •  
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Hand plates are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white, and permanently affixed to rubber gloves (no straps).

 

Back Armor
  • Back plate contains a "O II" design.
  • A blue detail shall be present in the form of a Y-Shape. The blue Y-Shaped detail will have slanted white stripes, one on each side of the flared upper parts of the Y-shape.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The Back plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.
  • AM back plate is replaced with a more screen accurate version.

 

Abdomen Armor
  • Ab plate buttons shall be all black.
  • Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB.
  • A blue stripe shall be present on the ab section and stops underneath the belt area. The blue stripe is wide at the bottom and narrows toward the top, to match up to the blue Y-Shaped detail of the chest plate.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Ab plate/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • There shall be no split rivet or brad visible on the crotch tab of the ab plate.
  • Left vertical row of ab plate buttons contain five buttons. All buttons are the same size and color and are visible (not covered by the belt). The fifth button is mounted vertically above the standard four buttons.
  • There are 2 rivets on either side of the ab, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, these are lined up with the ones on the kidney, the top rivet is roughly 25mm from the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white.
  •  
  •  
  •  
     

 

Kidney & Posterior Armor
  • A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
  • The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The edges of the hip area are rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB posterior armor).
  • Kidney/Posterior Armor is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Two rivets shall be present on each side of the kidney plate, approximately 4mm from the inside edge of the U shaped gasket or molded lip that is adjacent to the ab plate.  REMOVE
  • There are 2 rivets on either side of the kidney, these are lined up with the ones on the ab, the top rivet is roughly 25mmfrom the top edge and the bottom is 25mm above the top of the belt and 20mm from the side seam, painted white.
  • Kidney can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners)
  • Posterior can be either ANH (straight corners) or ROTJ (rounded corners)
  • There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab.
  •  
  •  
  •  
     

 

 

Belt
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt.
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • The soft belt proper is tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style material or material with a tightly woven nylon/cordura like/style covering. Size is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. The color is white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes are white and dangle from the sides of the plastic front belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned with the end of the ammo belt.
  • Belt can be longer than standard ANH/ROTJ with square buttons positioned close to the end of the belt

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
    • Leather and vinyl are not accurate.
  • There are two square buttons, one on each end of the plastic ammo belt.
  • The center square button is not accurate.
  • Belt face(TK ammo belt)and drop boxes are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle.
  • Drop boxes are closed in the back.
  • The belt proper shall have (eight total) white rivets. Two rivets close to each side of the thermal detonator, and two rivets approximately an inch away from the edge of the ammo belt (The rivets form a rectangular pattern) and are painted white.

 

Thermal Detonator

ROTJ

5V3Xxcm.png

 

Or

 

Game

DrFQ84b.png

 

  • (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt.
  • Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
    • The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.
  • The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
  • The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
  • The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The thermal detonator is lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
  • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • The thermal detonator control panel has correct ROTJ details, or the "game style" version.
    • The ANH/ESB style is not allowed.

 

Thigh Armor
  • Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
  • The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh,
  • The outside half of the right thigh shall be blue with two white semi-horizontal stripes near the top.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Thighs/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable.        REMOVE
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.          REMOVE
  • Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.         REMOVE
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references.
  • The thigh ammo belt is NOT rounded off like ANH.
  • The thigh ammo is glued and has NO rivets.
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standard rivets are not acceptable.        REMOVE
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.          REMOVE
  • Thighs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.         REMOVE
  • The thigh ammo belt can be positioned on top of the lower ridge as seen in official references or attached to the thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge..
  • The thigh ammo belt can either be straight or rounded off like ANH.
  •  
  •  
  •  

 

Lower Leg Armor
  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net
  • Only the outside half of the right greave shall be blue.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Greaves/blue Commander details are lightly scuffed (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD).
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Lower Legs use the overlap construction method. Using the butt joint and cover strips is not accurate.  REMOVE

 

Boots
  • Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
  • Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
  • Flat sole with a short heel.
  • No buckles or laces.
  • Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
    • Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  • Both boots shall have two blue stripes painted, curving across the top of the foot.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • There is no seam present on the front of the boot.
  • Boots are lightly scuffed.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The two stripes curving over the boots are accurate in proportion to official references.

 

Holster

OPTIONAL:

Holster

  • Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material
  • Holster is worn on the left of the belt
  • Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners).
  •  
  • OR
  •  
  • Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material
  • Holster is worn on the left of the belt
  • Holster can either be affixed by two black loops over the belt or attached via straps behind the belt using fasteners already present

 

 

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Most Impressive Q! 

I agree with everything for the belt both green and purple. I've seen more white drop boxes then grey in game stills/reference photo's mainly seeing them in darker scenes leading me to think a reflection in 2D. 

The thigh ammo belt :duimomlaag:

I'll have to live with it I guess if it moves up:icon_beg:

Fan of leaving it like every other TK.

Moving on

 

Holster seems logical. If converting use what you got so you don't deal with two holes showing and loops if starting fresh.

 

Not mentioned but nice add with 4 or 5 button plate option. Great for conversation of roughed up armor. Sorry, It's the HWT brain I have.;)

Since the Commander has a built in shield generator my thought was that was 5th button.

 

 

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Holster-  Green

Thigh-  Green

Belt-  Green

 

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9 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Thanks Joseph, I have added in 3 to 5, I do think I've seen more white drop boxes than grey but I will have another look through images. Hopefully Arthur or Randy will their thoughts about the ammo belt and other options

I'm sure I haven't looked at as many of the drop boxes than you, lol, but in the pics that Mike provided they are all gray.

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Sorry for the late respond, I was cut off from the internet until the cable man came this morning.

 

 

Belt -  Green. I am inclined to think the face of the dropbox is a shadow cast from the lighting.

 

Thigh Armor -  Green. I feel the same way as Randy, but if we stick to the official references, that is how it shall be.

 

Holster - I am torn between the two since it is an optional item. But if I have to pick one, the loop then (Green).

 

 

Once gain, double thumbs up for Glen for cross referencing so much materials and making the leap forward possible. The visual references varies from platform to platform (Xbox360 > PS2 > PC > PSP) and yet they are all "The Force Unleashed" TKC.
 

 

 

Edited by giskard8
Typo

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I think with the drop boxes that it comes down to which reference source is preferred.  Some obviously have no gray, and some do:

                                                                                                       No gray

                                                          tWeGEBY.png?1

 

                                                               With gray  (You can even see the white scratches on some).

 

P1aRWd9.jpg?1   MWSAMAA.jpg?1

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3 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

I think with the drop boxes that it comes down to which reference source is preferred.  Some obviously have no gray, and some do:

                                                                                                       No gray

                                                          tWeGEBY.png?1

 

                                                               With gray  (You can even see the white scratches on some).

 

P1aRWd9.jpg?1   MWSAMAA.jpg?1

It’s been pointed out that those images are from a MOD so I have disregarded those as references, that’s why the ESB/ ROTJ handguards have been removed, also the 4 ab buttons and the ROTJ belt rivets/ no square covers options.

 

Going on just game reference the belt boxes are either white or they don’t have them at all, once I’m back at the computer I’ll upload the references I have of those. 

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2 hours ago, giskard8 said:

Sorry for the late respond, I was cut off from the internet until the cable man came this morning.

 

 

Belt -  Green. I am inclined to think the face of the dropbox is a shadow cast from the lighting.

 

Thigh Armor -  Green. I feel the same way as Randy, but if we stick to the official references, that is how it shall be.

 

Holster - I am tron between the two since it is an optional item. But if I have to pick one, the loop then (Green).

 

 

Once gain, double thumbs up for Glen for cross referencing so much materials and making the leap forward possible. The visual references varies from platform to platform (Xbox360 > PS2 > PC > PSP) and yet they are all "The Force Unleashed" TKC.
 

 

 

 

On 9/25/2018 at 10:24 AM, magni said:

Most Impressive Q! 

I agree with everything for the belt both green and purple. I've seen more white drop boxes then grey in game stills/reference photo's mainly seeing them in darker scenes leading me to think a reflection in 2D. 

The thigh ammo belt :duimomlaag:

I'll have to live with it I guess if it moves up:icon_beg:

Fan of leaving it like every other TK.

Moving on

 

Holster seems logical. If converting use what you got so you don't deal with two holes showing and loops if starting fresh.

 

Not mentioned but nice add with 4 or 5 button plate option. Great for conversation of roughed up armor. Sorry, It's the HWT brain I have.;)

Since the Commander has a built in shield generator my thought was that was 5th button.

 

 

Thanks for your feedback guys, it’s appreciated.

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Game references only in the following:

 

ixHL3Ud.jpg

 

Also there is the longer belt with squares closer to the end, it is a game references so if we wanted to change the knee ammo strip to game accurate perhaps the belt should too?, I would suggest to have the option for both, belt and knee.

 

I'm with Randy and Arthur on the knee it would be nice to not stick out from other OTTK's even though it would be more accurate to use the game version.

 

6d9MUNn.png

 

Holster-  Green

Thigh-  Purple

Belt-  Purple

 

 

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OK, all the changes should be live.  Please review and lmk if there is anything I missed and still needs to be corrected.  Once this is complete I'll work on the ROTJ if it's ready.

 

BTW, how Glen organized the changes made it very fast to do these, e.g. for a given section just include adds, removes, changes.

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5 hours ago, Daetrin said:

OK, all the changes should be live.  Please review and lmk if there is anything I missed and still needs to be corrected.  Once this is complete I'll work on the ROTJ if it's ready.

 

BTW, how Glen organized the changes made it very fast to do these, e.g. for a given section just include adds, removes, changes.

Thank you Paul

 

Just one thing, could the images of the correct TD's be added please, currently it is a ANH style.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their contributions and feedback, it has been a great help :salute:

 

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2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Thank you Paul

 

Just one thing, could the images of the correct TD's be added please, currently it is a ANH style.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their contributions and feedback, it has been a great help :salute:

 

I'm wearing the game version in top photo. As well as white drop boxes to counter grey one's in photo next to belt description. If that helps any.

 

Great job all the way around tightening up the TKC CRL.:duim:

 

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Fantastic job, great work guys.

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5 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Thank you Paul

 

Just one thing, could the images of the correct TD's be added please, currently it is a ANH style.

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their contributions and feedback, it has been a great help :salute:

 

Do you know, it's the only one we really have, and is used by ROTJ as well.  If I can get a clean one to replace, I will for the lot of them that need it.

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