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Fish's ANOVOS Build Thread - Aspiring for L3

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1 minute ago, ukswrath said:

Correct! How it's mounted is not an issue at the higher levels of approval, well, unless it just looks like garbage then we might say something lol

Bahaha! figured that would be a given. but in todays world, its not lol.

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3 hours ago, Commander Gree said:

Bahaha! figured that would be a given. but in todays world, its not lol.

Has there been an influx of poorly assembled/put together TK suits?

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1 hour ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Has there been an influx of poorly assembled/put together TK suits?

it was more of a general "today people just aren't thinking" than it was about TKs. we typically stay on top of any issues with TKs here within the forum. most times the ones that have really messed up are because the listened to someone outside of the forum (and generally aren't even an approved TK) and then they come here so we can help them fix it. most problems are overcome by this group, but it seems that people are more and more not caring enough or just don't know where to go, and so they just throw something together and it looks horrible

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3 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Has there been an influx of poorly assembled/put together TK suits?

Some FB groups that aren't focused on accuracy and also aren't interested in referring people here think they have all the answers  Sadly nobody has all the answers however, the collection of very talented builders that can be found here will get you going in the right direction and help maintain that.  Without proper guidance people are more apt to head down the wrong path resulting in poor quality builds.

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3 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Some FB groups that aren't focused on accuracy and also aren't interested in referring people here think they have all the answers  Sadly nobody has all the answers however, the collection of very talented builders that can be found here will get you going in the right direction and help maintain that.  Without proper guidance people are more apt to head down the wrong path resulting in poor quality builds.

Yea, I joined the ANOVOS FB build group and it was not what I had expected, nor what I want to be a part of. (Actually they're not that bad, I only saw a couple of posts with mediocrity, but they have the right intention of following your guide).

 

I had no idea the amount of detail and craftsmanship required to build one when I initially purchased the kit; only after I received it in the mail and found your thread, I understood the dedication and skill required to do it right. I do consider myself a bit of a snob when it comes to legitimacy, and couldn't picture myself building this suit half mule. Thank you and all for keeping the artistry and craftsmanship alive in the empire!

Edited by fishgoh0nk
retraction
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1 hour ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Yea, I joined the ANOVOS FB build group and it was not what I had expected, nor what I want to be a part of. (Actually they're not that bad, I only saw a couple of posts with mediocrity, but they have the right intention of following your guide).

 

I had no idea the amount of detail and craftsmanship required to build one when I initially purchased the kit; only after I received it in the mail and found your thread, I understood the dedication and skill required to do it right. I do consider myself a bit of a snob when it comes to legitimacy, and couldn't picture myself building this suit half mule. Thank you and all for keeping the artistry and craftsmanship alive in the empire!

Thank you, like you we learned from those that came before us. Troopers Helping Troopers :salute:

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On 8/8/2018 at 7:42 PM, fishgoh0nk said:

Oh! Ok, I bought some double sided rivets for the thigh ammo belt. I was actually referring to the pop rivets, also used on the belt ammo (dangling ones). Is there any benefit to using either?

IMG_7560.jpg

 

Might be too late for this, but rather than rivets, I used Chicago screws to mount my ammo belt to my canvas belt.  It's removable if I need it to be, but won't come off by accident.  (use a tiny dab of E6000 on the threads to lock the screw)

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2 hours ago, kman said:

 

Might be too late for this, but rather than rivets, I used Chicago screws to mount my ammo belt to my canvas belt.  It's removable if I need it to be, but won't come off by accident.  (use a tiny dab of E6000 on the threads to lock the screw)

I like the Chicago screws idea, thanks! Just got back from BM, a little R&R, then time to get back to the TK!

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Hey Happy Holidays guys! I'm not dead! Moving was kind of a big deal and didn't have the time to get settled in enough to get back to work. The suit is right next to my computer, which I spend 16 hours a day at! Need to get back into the groove! Hopefully getting this addition will boost my morale!

 

I got a nice addition to the suit, I picked up an E11!

 

gF0ZsrU.jpg

 

8HuwL2Y.jpg

 

This is an airsoft replica, I haven't done the search yet, but I'm hoping there isn't too much to mod to this blaster for Centurion.

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a couple of things that jump out at me are the t-tracks seem short and the rail to which the scope is mounted is short as well. The front should extend passed the mag well into the first vent hole. If memory serves the rear of the rail mount should either be attached directly to the rear sight or if bent downwards as it seems to appear in your pics should be about 1cm or so away from the rear sight and not flushed against it. The scope is way too far back. I don't think the charging handle should be silver.

 

I'm curious as to how the face of the counter looks like.

 

 

Quote

 

Edited by Vertex
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49 minutes ago, Vertex said:

a couple of things that jump out at me are the t-tracks seem short and the rail to which the scope is mounted is short as well. The front should extend passed the mag well into the first vent hole. If memory serves the rear of the rail mount should either be attached directly to the rear sight or if bent downwards as it seems to appear in your pics should be about 1cm or so away from the rear sight and not flushed against it. The scope is way too far back. I don't think the charging handle should be silver.

 

I'm curious as to how the face of the counter looks like.

 

 

welp! good thing we have the experts here :) I don't think the counter is anything passable, it's just printed on. Would you happen to have a link to centurion requirements for the blaster?

 

bdBcv43.jpg

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3 minutes ago, phil said:

scope and counter are too far back.....nice tho

Yea, i'm already experimenting with concepts to move it forward. Good thing there's already a screw hole drilled, just need to add the stabilizer hole, extend some screws and I should be good with that. Definitely need to un-silver the charging handle/bolt.

 

V2waOvr.jpg

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One step closer, James!  As mentioned, the T-tracks will need to be longer to extend to the rear holes as seen below.  This diagram is from the E-11 Blaster Reference guide located here:

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

 

t4xciwb.png?2

 

Not sure what kind of budget you are on, but the only place I know of right off hand to get the new ones is here:  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Star-Wars-T-Track-T-Profile-Kit-Stormtrooper-E11-Blaster-With-HiBond-Tape/223040300675?hash=item33ee3ce683:m:mGEmA54iNxtb695LwmQuCJg:rk:2:pf:0

 

If there is another source perhaps someone could weigh in with it. 

Below is another detail from the Blaster Guide to give you a better idea of where the scope/Hengstler counter should sit. 

 

75ukRv8.png?1

 

Lastly, the CRL for Centurion does not mention decals on the counter, so you are good to go with that.  The information listed below can be found at the bottom of the page here:

http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

 

For level 2 (Expert Infantry)

 Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
  • Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
    • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.
  • No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

 

For level 3 (Centurion)

 

 Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
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@justjoseph63 as always! Much appreciated solid post joseph! Unless someone knows another place, it looks like i'll be ordering a pack from the seller you linked. I think the 2 details in addition to the T-tracks are the extractor on bolt detail and serrations on the rear sight. It doesn't seem to be listed as a requirement, but seems easy enough to do for better accuracy.

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Do you guys know if the approvers will care that the scope opening is at the 12'oclock position rather than the 6'oclock position? I believe the reason for this inaccuracy was done because this replica comes with a working 3.5x magnification scope, and in order to maintain a level plane for the scope housing, they had to shift the relief upwards.

 

t5dvNZp.png

 

I can make the modification by dissecting the front of the scope and re-affixing it with a 180 degree rotation; however, it'd ruin the sight picture :)

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I doubt it would affect approval.  It'd bug the heck out of me, though! LOL

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18 hours ago, kman said:

I doubt it would affect approval.  It'd bug the heck out of me, though! LOL

 

Hmm, I don't know dude.  As the goal is to achieve centurion I don't think something like that would/should pass. Its a clear error that makes it screen inaccurate. I see this as being no different than had the manufacturer put on a singlepoint scope instead of a M38/32/19 scope, an omitted "D" ring or wrong screws being used on the TD. For basic it be ok, for expert maybe, although like you it would still bug me. But for centurion status I'd say a definitive no.

 

Again this is purely my opinion so a *very* big YMMV on this. Hopefully a DO within the program will provide some guidance.

Edited by Vertex
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On ‎12‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 2:06 PM, fishgoh0nk said:

Do you guys know if the approvers will care that the scope opening is at the 12'oclock position rather than the 6'oclock position? I believe the reason for this inaccuracy was done because this replica comes with a working 3.5x magnification scope, and in order to maintain a level plane for the scope housing, they had to shift the relief upwards.

 

I can make the modification by dissecting the front of the scope and re-affixing it with a 180 degree rotation; however, it'd ruin the sight picture :)

@ Basic that's up to your GTML but doubt it.

@ L2 Again, no problem but you will be requested to correct it 

@ L3 Corrected before approval

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Anyone know of any good m38 scope replicas? Just got done here at SWC2019 and I'm going to "double our efforts" in preparation for 2020! I was thinking about the kit from eBay for 100-150, but I haven't seen many reviews about it. I do want something functioning :) 

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Get the kit from tramp, the display is awesome. There is also versions of the scope on shapeways

BlastFX:

https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/blastfx-mini-scope-display-blaster-electronics-from-tramp.281655/

 

shapeways

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=blastfx

 

No affiliation with either party, just a satisfied customer and paying it forward.

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On 4/17/2019 at 12:47 PM, LTM said:

Get the kit from tramp, the display is awesome. There is also versions of the scope on shapeways

BlastFX:

https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/blastfx-mini-scope-display-blaster-electronics-from-tramp.281655/

 

shapeways

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=blastfx

 

No affiliation with either party, just a satisfied customer and paying it forward.

All I saw were the electronics for the display, I was wondering about the entire scope so I would just detach my current one. I was thinking about something like this:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-blaster-M38-Tank-Telescope-1942-Scope-Replica-KIT/122795049049?epid=881057613&hash=item1c9727c059:g:TYcAAOSwIVhaAHe3

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All I saw were the electronics for the display, I was wondering about the entire scope so I would just detach my current one. I was thinking about something like this:
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/E11-blaster-M38-Tank-Telescope-1942-Scope-Replica-KIT/122795049049?epid=881057613&hash=item1c9727c059:g:TYcAAOSwIVhaAHe3

Hi James,

You could check out Bulldog Props. Brian is active here and makes great scopes. He makes ones suitable for electronics too.

https://m.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/

It’s such a shame that the air soft E-11 has the issues that it has. The basis of the blaster is pretty good - just looks like they guessed where the t-tracks and scope went. Once you e made those changes it’ll be a cracking little piece. :-)

When you do get a new scope, remember that it wants to sit about 2 or 3 inches further forward. As below, the rear foot should align with the coach bolt for the folding stock.

fc5ff84edd4cae62e4d46621c32cbbd3.jpg

Keep up the good work,

Dan :-)

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