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fishgoh0nk

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by fishgoh0nk

  1. I would putty those cracks on the main tube body, I did not and they do show slightly after paint. Regrets haha
  2. I added some putty to mine for some seams, especially front barrel shroud to receiver, that one definitely needs patching. I used paint+primer , then dulled it with another layer of flat top coat to deaden the texture.
  3. Good luck on the build! Completed mine from trooper96 a month ago and I ABSOLUTELY love it! Be sure to go slow and support the weaker parts while sanding. Crazy glue was my best friend.
  4. Lol no concern now, someone bought it.
  5. Not sure if the powers that be would agree with my methods, but I didn't like the gap formed between the lower plate and the shin where spiders and other vermin can crawl up into, so I used some heat to shape the plate onto my shins for a flush profile. While the e6000 was drying and the plate clamped (use non marring clamp feet on non conforming points), I masked the exposed shin with painters tape and used a low heat setting and slowly heated the plate. As the plate softened, the clamping force flexed into the crevasses.
  6. Hot water pour is pretty safe. Just be sure to apply pressure on the joints and pour water on the neighboring areas as well. To clarify, unless you're doing a sharp bend, all areas affect the curvature of the plastic, so you also have to heat the support areas to achieve max bend without fold. I usually allow it to cool while under pressure until it's mildly warm or hardens, whichever first.
  7. I would take a revisit on the ear paint, the perimeter stripe and the stripe in the middle could use a redo.
  8. James Wang TK 83751 Centurion Letter Chemi https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/83751-centurion.png
  9. What a great Friday morning surprise! Thank you guys! Justin, thanks for believing in me with the Centurion patch!
  10. A trick I learned when doing mine, if gluing on cover strips one side at a time, start with the side that faces outward first, so you can get a flush seam on the more exposed/visible side. This is because the second side may be a bit more difficult getting super flush as you've already locked down the first. Sometimes I had to use locking clamps to secure a flush seam as the rigidity of the cover strip and the armor may be a bit stubborn. Also when using locking clamps, don't press too hard, I've managed to squeeze all the e6000 out of the cracks it didn't adhere at all, hours wasted ><
  11. You came to the right place! "That's good - You've taken your first step into a larger world." and BOY, is this a large world. I think the thing I hadn't realized until after spending more time on FISD and local garrison is that there are so many degrees of dedication and enthusiasm to the armor. Scouring the forums is really thorough but time consuming; talking to people directly is highly efficient and would definitely recommend! So reach out, everyone I've met here is extremely helpful and friendly. Good luck with your build!
  12. Wait, mods are being made to a link in the armor history chain? Oof, I'm sure it's not my place to say, but if it were me, I'd build it the way Marco had intended, goofy, inaccurate, but definitely a nice display piece for preservation.
  13. Thanks Richard! Like grade school exams, I never have good feelings about any of it lol I just fetal position, cross fingers legs and arms and hope for the best
  14. @Chemi I tried the best to align these with some more glue directly on the ammo boxes and the strap, how does this look?
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