Jump to content
fishgoh0nk

Fish's ANOVOS Build Thread - Aspiring for L3

Recommended Posts

Update - Lessons Learned:

Methods:

  • Heat gun is extremely risky - always keep the heat moving or else things'll warp
  • Heat gun can be used on shims (tow away signs) to soften and contour as well as get a better fit after gluing
  • Sealing iron sock - pressing too hard too early results in waffling.
  • Semi circle file is really useful for smoothing down curved edges.
  • Don't work late at night- a bad brain will result in regrets.

Biceps: 

  • Left bicep was extremely small, hybrid mix and match left outer + ATA Works inner works very well. Anovos and ATA are really close in color.

Shins:

  • Sniper knee requires water bath to get proper fit.
  • Sniper knee with sealing heat iron to form return contour is a good idea.

 

 

Hello All! I had this ANOVOS kit sitting in my living room(s) (moved once) since 2016 and I'm finally kicked myself in the boot to get started. The ANOVOS booth guy said it'd be approximately 100 man hours to get it built... I'm starting to think he was underestimating... This is my first build ever, please forgive the amount of newbie stench I will be emitting.

 

Shoutout to justjoseph63 for providing some good newbie advice and steering me in the right direction, which includes starting this thread. My build has been in motion for approximately a week now, all parts trimmed out of their molds per UKswraths/uswraths? guide, currently fitting all pieces before any gluing will be done. I'm a guy that likes to go big or go home, like I stated in the title, I'm shooting for Centurion/L3 approval, so hopefully I won't have a troopers accuracy regarding that :P; thus, any approvers reading this, please let me know if I made any errors.

 

Forearms

Ao7EKf8.jpg

0JfpvNm.jpg

 

Thigh - front

C8YK2ZL.jpg

 

Thigh - rear shims

sDPd2bW.jpg

 

Questions - rear thigh shims

1. How does the shim look? Am I messing up? The left thigh shim I think is good, I can trim the splint where I marked with the sharpie, but for the right shim, I planned that I will need to add another splint (shim) to the outer, then glue them with an overlap, that way the overlap will an overlap of shims and be on the inside, then, ABS paste the valley and use a normal sized cover strip.

2. The right thigh seems to be smaller than the left, my right thigh is also bigger than my left. I have big thighs. On the left thigh I can maintain connections between the two side's return edges, but on the right thigh I cannot- I anticipated making a "fake" return edge from ABS paste and scrap, would anyone advise against doing this?

3. I just ordered a Hangar 9 sealing iron and cloth sock to make return edges for the top of the rear thighs - I kind of have a bubble butt, so those will need to be taken down. Would you recommend doing this before or after the thighs have been glued and coverstripped?

 

Calve - front

DEsbHKM.jpg

 

Calve - rear

CQtMhCx.jpg

 

Questions - rear calve shims

1. The inner and outer upper returns don't seem to line up naturally, I plan to trim and shim accordingly to get them to line up, any advice on shimming calves? I don't have enough experience to gauge whether or not I want to use velcro or the bra strap closures. I feel like with the bra strap closures i'll have more athleticism :) , but i want to be sure the shims will look OK with them.

 

I'll keep updating with more posts - I ran out of 2 inch tape, so I'll need to get some more before I can start fitting again. The 1 inch stuff doesn't hold up to squeezed flesh body pressures.

 

Oh, I already messed up my left bicep trying to shape it with a heatgun - guess I will never do that again. I contacted ATAWorks for a replacement with a right bicep; hopefully I can get that soon.

Edited by fishgoh0nk
added lessons learned
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One can find some great stuff in the junk box/bucket at these hardware stores.  It’s like finding gold!  I dig it!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I decided to glue the forearms - 24 hours is 24 hours amiright? Unfortunately, after I glued the right forearm, I realized that I needed to trim down the return edges to 15mm to match my calves and thighs, which will have minimal return edges under the cover strip... but I had already resized the forearms by trimming the non-return edges already... woops! Hopefully 5mm will not cause my arms to no longer fit. I decided to trim the left forearm now so I will have less trouble later, and good news, it still fits, just a bit more snuggly. I will still have to find out if I botched the right forearm after the glue cures, I'll give it a fit, squeeze, and see if I can trim off the 5mm from the return edges without consequence. It'll just be a bit more of a pain as 1 side has already been glued.

20180624_002306.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Congratulations on starting your build! Very exciting. I was the same ... my ATA kit sat in a box for 3 years until about January 1st of this year.

 

For your thigh tops, a return edge isn't required at all...it's all about comfort and certainly none at would be really comfortable. It's personal preference, but if, like me, you want to keep a tiny bit I wouldn't go with any more than that...or it'll dig into you--especially with already having big legs and a snug fit there. Mine look like it's about .5mm at the front and back and 0 on the sides...again personal preference, not telling you to do that. You look like you have close to 1cm all the way around...that's gonna cause you some pain and hassle.

 

Also, be very very careful with that iron! I've read more horror than success stories! LOL

 

For the shimming, I'm going to let people who have experience with that make the comments. None here.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, forgot to say! ... aspiring to get to lvl3 is what will get you there! Starting your build with that always being the plan, it just becomes acedemic, and we’ll all help you get there. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, menschie said:

Oh, forgot to say! ... aspiring to get to lvl3 is what will get you there! Starting your build with that always being the plan, it just becomes acedemic, and we’ll all help you get there. ;)

My thoughts exactly! Aim high, and see where I end up.

 

I don't think the return edges are digging too much into me, so I do plan on keeping them, the main difficulty I'm having is fitting the quad into the space without flaring the thigh pieces too far. I'm also not sure how high to wear the thighs - is this too high? I'm planning to have this high enough so I can freely kick 90 degrees back, but in doing so, i'll need to trim off more of the rear thigh to accommodate for the glute.

 

KIVTwkU.jpg

 

PNjMANj.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those big return edges, especially on the side of the thigh top, just don't look right. Plus, once you spend a few hours in those things trooping, you'll rethink.

 

You should be okay, once things are fitted okay, kicking backward. Especially, as that thigh floats and can raise up a bit to accommodate that, just with your motion. In my experience, it's lifting the knees which is an issue (and watching Star Wars, it looks to me like the TK's on there were equally challenged by this), as the front top of the thigh prevents that. Big return edges will make that even more difficult. ;) 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Should the lower return edge clear the knee cap? 

Now you're getting into fitment. They're in the area, but it's dependent on your height, your armour make, your body type, preference...etc. Better to have them too long and having to take some off, going into the fitting and strapping stage, then to not have enough. In the end, you'll be making compromises and averaging, to get the right gaps, fit and look. For some of us with long legs, it's above, for some it's somewhere on the knee cap. It's certainly an art, and not a science.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, menschie said:

Now you're getting into fitment. They're in the area, but it's dependent on your height, your armour make, your body type, preference...etc. Better to have them too long and having to take some off, going into the fitting and strapping stage, then to not have enough. In the end, you'll be making compromises and averaging, to get the right gaps, fit and look. For some of us with long legs, it's above, for some it's somewhere on the knee cap. It's certainly an art, and not a science.

Ok, thanks for making that clear! The reason I ask is because I want to make sure I'm shimming for enough leg room to be able to pull the thigh up high enough if I need to. Currently, it's pretty tight for the right thigh when the bottom return edge rests on the middle of the knee cap. I can probably shim larger to allow the thigh to be pulled higher past the knee, this might be the safer route would you agree?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right now, don't worry quite as much about knee position on the thigh...make sure it's big enough. A bit too big is never a problem. Even more than a bit is often not a problem. I've seen "not quite big enough" come back to haunt people on these boards. Make them big enough, don't trim any vertical length away, and the knee position etc. etc. will sort itself out in fitment.  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, menschie said:

Right now, don't worry quite as much about knee position on the thigh...make sure it's big enough. A bit too big is never a problem. Even more than a bit is often not a problem. I've seen "not quite big enough" come back to haunt people on these boards. Make them big enough, don't trim any vertical length away, and the knee position etc. etc. will sort itself out in fitment.  :)

Thanks! Got reassurance, so I have finalized the size I want to hold at. Left thigh being glued:

 

fKjfUli.jpg

 

I think I should get shoes/boots before sizing the calves. I'm thinking about the Tankers by ImperialBoots. Would these be acceptable like the Classic 421s?

 

https://www.imperialboots.com/product/tanker-boots/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those will not pass CRL for a TK. Only option is the 421’s...they are white, no seam Chelsea’s, exactly as they’re supposed to be.

 

if I were you I’d order them in the July wave, and you’ll have them in August some time. They’re gorgeous boots. Order them a size bigger than you wear. Also, do yourself a favour and order their neck seal for a TK while you’re at it. I love mine! So comfortable. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, menschie said:

Those will not pass CRL for a TK. Only option is the 421’s...they are white, no seam Chelsea’s, exactly as they’re supposed to be.

 

if I were you I’d order them in the July wave, and you’ll have them in August some time. They’re gorgeous boots. Order them a size bigger than you wear. Also, do yourself a favour and order their neck seal for a TK while you’re at it. I love mine! So comfortable. 

Thanks for the heads up! Planning to get a size 11 for myself when they start taking orders in July.

 

Progress update - glued the rear shim, planning to sand, and apply some ABS paste into the valley, repeat sanding/polishing to smooth out the paste and then gluing the cover strip directly on the valley to maintain center. 

 

fbU6rUv.jpg

 

Oh! and I got Justjoseph's silicone handguards! They look really good! In fact... the gelatinous feel of them kind of makes me want take a bite out of them... reminds me of a delicious piece of fresh coconut meat... but will probably taste like a tidepod...

 

 

Edited by fishgoh0nk
shoutout to joseph
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome. If they are a teeny bit big, you’ll just leave the original insoles in when you put gels in. So, either way they’ll be perfect. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made a little strip of cover to fill the void made by the shim. The rear cover strip DOES cover this entirely, do you guys think I should bother with ABS paste between the cracks if it's not visible?

 

In place

g2eEEu7.jpg

 

Cover strip comparison (will cover the cracks, bother with ABS paste?)

T4236QZ.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

do you guys think I should bother with ABS paste between the cracks if it's not visible?

I don`t :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd do whatever you think you need to do to make sure you have a strong and flexible bond ... whether that's ABS paste, interior cover strip, etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed... no need to ABS paste that if it's entirely covered.  Nice how that worked out, too, because there won't be any extra work sanding and polishing!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, menschie said:

I'd do whatever you think you need to do to make sure you have a strong and flexible bond ... whether that's ABS paste, interior cover strip, etc.

ABS paste lends zero strength. It's quite weak, structurally.  The shims, as he has constructed them, are definitely more than strong enough, once it's all glued together.

 

I'm all for interior cover strips.  Although the shim, in this particular joint, essentially becomes an interior cover strip, so no need for that with this piece.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, kman said:

ABS paste lends zero strength. It's quite weak, structurally.  The shims, as he has constructed them, are definitely more than strong enough, once it's all glued together.

 

I'm all for interior cover strips.  Although the shim, in this particular joint, essentially becomes an interior cover strip, so no need for that with this piece.

Okay, good feedback. I just know how much weaker the bond is, under tension, at the very edge of the cover strips (which in this case will shouldering much of the responsibility for holding the two halves together without an interior strip)...but if you guys, with shim experience, think it's more than strong enough I'll defer to you, of course.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...