Fish's ANOVOS Build Thread - Aspiring for L3

[TheSwede[TK]]

56 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Would removing some of the butt plate return edge disqualify Centurion?

I don’t think you need to, ”buttflare” is screen accurate and in this last pic yours don’t look bad at all. I would have placed the brackets closer to the edges though as that will aid to minimize the flare. If you’re up to it you could move yours and fill the small holes with a small plastic tab and abs paste.  A fellow Trooper @gmrhodes13 has a nice fix for the posterior/kidney overlap he can tell you about

1 hour ago, fishgoh0nk said:

I don't think a tighter cod piece elastic would work

It won’t, more likely make it worse.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I'm not on computer at the moment but here are some images of adding V tabs 

 

With a heat gun (or hot water bath) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V with tabs, only glue the bottom side and the top remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

8 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Hiya,

 

What do you mean by “helmet to face gap”?

I was referring two the two pieces, helmet (top and neck to the face), where right around the trapezoid above the ear, there's a small gap that allows room for the rubber forehead seal. I used a little bit of heat to close it off. It doesn't bother as much now.

 

6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I'm not on computer at the moment but here are some images of adding V tabs 

 

With a heat gun (or hot water bath) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V with tabs, only glue the bottom side and the top remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

 

 

That sounds pretty nifty - unfortunately I had set the e6000 for the elastic belt - If it doesn't look good I'll give the V-tabs a shot. Do you keep the backfacing part of the tabs white? Would show at all when bending over?

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

While the glue dries... finally filed down the fake cover in my blaster into a 3d-ified bolt with guide

 

 

Before

After

 

I then wanted a recoil spring, and I didn't want to cut up any real ones I had so I made one out of a coat hanger by twisting it around a barbell bar

 

A little uneven but I'm happy with it, if I had straight wire to start with it may have turned out better

Edited March 4, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
photo

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

ahhh couldn't wait for the rail paint to fully cure - mounted stuff anyway

 

 

Did I mess up somewhere?

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

So cool Congratulations !  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

On 3/4/2020 at 1:23 AM, fishgoh0nk said:

That sounds pretty nifty - unfortunately I had set the e6000 for the elastic belt - If it doesn't look good I'll give the V-tabs a shot. Do you keep the backfacing part of the tabs white? Would show at all when bending over?

I have just kept mine white, normally if I bend over people aren't watching from behind But if it's an issue you could paint black or wrap black tape around them.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, fishgoh0nk said:

 

Did I mess up somewhere?

 

Nice work, I would suggest using a softer coil wire 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Just now, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, I would suggest using a softer coil wire 

 

Is it supposed to jiggle? I'm using the ones that came with the rifle, seems to be about 14-16g and it's coiled up pretty densely. If it doesn't need to jiggle, maybe I can shorten the coil?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Just now, fishgoh0nk said:

Is it supposed to jiggle? I'm using the ones that came with the rifle, seems to be about 14-16g and it's coiled up pretty densely. If it doesn't need to jiggle, maybe I can shorten the coil?

I managed to find some that has a really strong wire, once coiled it doesn't move, but I would think wire that jiggled would be ok as long as it doesn't loose it's coil

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

7 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I managed to find some that has a really strong wire, once coiled it doesn't move, but I would think wire that jiggled would be ok as long as it doesn't loose it's coil

I found some wire... how does this look? Insulation writing a bad feature?

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

On 2/21/2020 at 3:04 PM, TKSpartan said:

You can try shortening the elastic on both sides of the butt plate , another suggestion is changing them for Nylon strap.

 

 

So the butt flare is solved with the lateral elastic strap, keeps it nice and snug! Thanks for the idea

 

Now, I think I need hot water bath the thighs to make room for a larger posterior. Looks like the back of the thighs are bunching me, if i change the oblong direction it might not bunch so badly. Thoughts?

 

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

I found some wire... how does this look? Insulation writing a bad feature?

Whilst I don’t believe it will affect actual clearance, the grip and power cylinders on this blaster appear to be based on Rogue One blasters. The ANH E-11 has the power cylinders closer together and the grip is rounded, not squared like this model. As you’re aiming for L3, just thought it mention it as it might get flagged.





There are other minor differences but these are the key ones.

Again, not necessarily a clearance issue, just a consideration as you’re aiming for higher levels of accuracy. :-)

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

16 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

 

Whilst I don’t believe it will affect actual clearance, the grip and power cylinders on this blaster appear to be based on Rogue One blasters. The ANH E-11 has the power cylinders closer together and the grip is rounded, not squared like this model. As you’re aiming for L3, just thought it mention it as it might get flagged.





There are other minor differences but these are the key ones.

Again, not necessarily a clearance issue, just a consideration as you’re aiming for higher levels of accuracy. :-)

 

Wondering if I should've just bought a resin cast rather than an airsoft replica now   Thanks for the notice!

 

The power cylinders seem pretty convenient, I might pick up a new one from somewhere, I might be able to file and rework the grip a bit... not sure without disassembly...

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

I couldn't get the left thigh to oblong the way I wanted, but for some reason, the butt pinching is more serious on the right thigh.

 

With the lateral elastic, the butt pinching is minimized quite a bit and I'm happy with it.

 

How does the posterior look? If all looks ok, I'll start with the mobility cuts followed by ABS paste and cover strips

 

 

Edited March 5, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Wondering if I should've just bought a resin cast rather than an airsoft replica now   Thanks for the notice!
 
The power cylinders seem pretty convenient, I might pick up a new one from somewhere, I might be able to file and rework the grip a bit... not sure without disassembly...

Of the two, the grip is less likely to be seen as it will be covered by your hand. :-)

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

3 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

How does the posterior look? If all looks ok, I'll start with the mobility cuts followed by ABS paste and cover strips

Just a suggestion for your thighs:  You may try trimming a little more the back section to help minimize the armor bite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

18 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Just a suggestion for your thighs:  You may try trimming a little more the back section to help minimize the armor bite.

 

 

 

 

So i did some trimming today... and now I'm thinking I wasn't standing up straight when i took my previous photos, because i'm still getting a lot of "armor bite"/pinching

 

I cut off the section masked off in blue tape

 

 

When standing straight up or walking, I get a little love pinch.

 

Here's a better pick of me leaning to fix the thigh heights -

 

Should I trim some more? Or am i'm just wearing these too high?

I wonder if this would be going too far - simulating this nice "oval" cutout?

Edited March 6, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
oval

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi, The following photo shows an Anovos Armor  (centurion approved) so you can take a look to the back of thighs

 

 

Cheers

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

On 3/6/2020 at 6:44 AM, TKSpartan said:

Hi, The following photo shows an Anovos Armor  (centurion approved) so you can take a look to the back of thighs

 

 

Cheers

I think i found the curvature I want - but a little hesitant to cut more than I need - asking for opinions: less cut or more cut?

 

Less cut vs More cut

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

4 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

 

Less cut vs More cut

Lokking good, but what about the armor pinching? 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

4 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Lokking good, but what about the armor pinching? 

Don't know yet - I'm not sure if i should cut more or cut less? (the two photos I posted have been shopped to give me an idea of what my cuts would look like - replaced blue tape color with black) I think I should cut more (2nd picture) - I think I won't care about the butt pinching as long as I'm styling'  

 

Update - Based on your comment, I took it as a good-to-go  so I cut along the lines of image #2 - Currently drying some return edge reinforcement and prepping the seams for ABS paste so I can't try it on right now - hopefully it fits well. 

Edited March 8, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
update

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

On 2/24/2020 at 2:27 PM, TKSpartan said:

 

 

As per the CRL states :

 

 

• Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges.

 

I think the red line you marked is ok.  Here's a reference picture .  

 

Cheers

 

 

I'm thinking due to how wide my thighs are, angled mobility cuts may give me a better look that rounded. Any thoughts?

 

Rounded looks kind of weird when the curvature is flattened to not go past the raised edges.

 

Angled, I can at least prevent going past the raised edges and stretch the cut as wide as the thigh.

[TheSwede[TK]]

I would avoid making any cuts just yet, doesn’t look like you need them. Wait untill you have tried it fully finished. You can always make cuts later. 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

6 hours ago, TheSwede said:

I would avoid making any cuts just yet, doesn’t look like you need them. Wait untill you have tried it fully finished. You can always make cuts later. 

I think need them - so far the fit is not bad, but a few bends have contact and are digging into the legs.

 

 

I also wanted to make the cuts before pasting, per Joseph's comment:

 

On 2/25/2020 at 4:23 AM, justjoseph63 said:

Before using the ABS paste I would go ahead and add your mobility cuts.  The reason being is that if you patch the seams first, the pressure from making the cuts afterward may crack the pasted areas (blue arrows).

 

 

Edited March 9, 2020 by fishgoh0nk