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Posted

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

We are all watching with excitement.

Great to see you back onto this project Sha Sha!

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

One of the next parts I tackled were the ab boxes. Like others, I used a contour gauge to try to match the bumps on the front of the ab:

 

AP1GczNHPO4jAHvlSoDp0ZXNTKUnX1uNM1U5l92Q

 

Since I knew I'd be painting the entire kit, I also used the ab and belt boxes as a small test to try out painting. So I sanded off all the gloss:

 

AP1GczOtg24Q8y84nGBv_ypAqkJkIhlsRer0QSlV

 

The primed and painted them:

 

AP1GczO8DH4fxthF1h3udxOpRVX4Glx20EV9y6JP

 

Very far from perfect but ok:

 

AP1GczMEygAHAVDIlokkn9Xa4CRVZLHA7kIP_a7f

 

AP1GczNjSiswvCgLdxnAZuuMGHXiT94j70tF43gG

 

Definitely needs improvement before I tackle the armor!

 

For the ab box attachment, I decided to go with nylon bolts and nuts. I drilled holes in the ab:

 

AP1GczPx4m2bOtyEh6mn9gQERpX62RFsA1AVhkNt

 

Then tried to use epoxy to glue the nuts in place. To be honest it was kind of a harrowing process. I had to reinforce the bolts with some milliput, and for one of them I messed it up so badly I ended up just gluing it to the ab.

 

AP1GczMAAgZOhvA_oNUeN6vK3bjfVDaudunePHTy

 

I also thought that I could use Loctite to help keep the nuts on, but BIG MISTAKE. I don't know what's in it, but it caused some major cracks in the ab!

 

AP1GczMFMYXWGACYY8isLKs4OhtZSp5P1jCFqiX4

 

AP1GczOA9JPUB1HjSwlWFJa92HuiQhKeeRFcgKj_

 

I ended up backing the cracks with a CA-glue soaked piece of cloth, and fortunately there's not too visible. Another vote for gluing the ab boxes on!

Edited by shashachu
Posted
49 minutes ago, shashachu said:

I also thought that I could use Loctite to help the nuts on, but BIG MISTAKE. I don't know what's in it, but it caused some major cracks in the ab!

 

 

AP1GczMFMYXWGACYY8isLKs4OhtZSp5P1jCFqiX4

I ended up backing the cracks with a CA-glue soaked piece of cloth, and fortunately there's not too visible. Another vote for gluing the ab boxes on!

 

 

Most plastics have a negative reaction to Loctite thread locker products. It's made for metal.  Scrub it all off if possible. If not it will continue to effect the plastic. That said, E6000 works great on the plastic threads. Apply it on the studs nearest to the Ab armor.

 

Hope this helps

 

Keep up the great work

Posted
3 hours ago, ukswrath said:

 

Most plastics have a negative reaction to Loctite thread locker products. It's made for metal.  Scrub it all off if possible. If not it will continue to effect the plastic. That said, E6000 works great on the plastic threads. Apply it on the studs nearest to the Ab armor.

 

Hope this helps

 

Keep up the great work

 

I did this a while back and washed it off, so hopefully no further reactions, but yes it was quite immediate and dramatic. Thanks for the tip about E6000.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The next part I tackled was the belt. I'd been dreading it for some reason, but it was actually quite fun. I believe I used @JAFO's belt kit.

 

To start, for the backing of the two horizontal boxes, I printed this file. It turns out though that I had to modify them because the curve of my ab was more pronounced:

 

AP1GczNsdI8KqJpC5nbwM58QrBfriXlo4AhYAHHZ

 

I did a quick mod in Tinkercad to fix it. You can see the difference here:

 

AP1GczMWNbYRT1a31pvPeSqIJGkssMxU2y2bhBWK

 

I didn't do an amazing job documenting the build, so I'll refer you all to @Ruthar's excellent build thread which I used as reference. Similar to other builders, my only recommendation is to take your time, and make sure you're sizing everything against the ab armor. The belt components have quite a bit of thickness, so it was easiest for me to just line them up and mark the measurements manually.

 

The punch I used to make holes in the rubber and neoprene:

 

AP1GczOIlWAI3cXPq2r-IGZBSZuY_pSG-Z_D6f0K

 

 

The 3 layers held together with Chicago screws:

 

AP1GczOOoIRGM17gOJYRo2HIH_xgAMcM2CkjdFSh

 

Fit around the ab armor:

 

AP1GczOJFqGl4AqDkz5GJP1poCDgecQuISOIjLyY

 

AP1GczMqTHeFuBb0hFb4Rm5MamRgsNWKx-b3QDxE

 

You can see how much longer the outer layers are compared to the inner nylon:

 

AP1GczOUZwAi_Ddg1jYmCwPE46olAc6EeUAh7CpX

 

I tried to glue the layers together with E6000 but it didn't stick, unfortunately. Not sure if it will be necessary ultimately.

 

AP1GczNzBRYW0xcC4AU_D47Q1vL0w3ZUfObInIrd

 

Like @Ruthar I covered the belt clip with some extra rubber:

 

AP1GczNjlmyPw67oqFa3Hbxh3Q3CYpWPOjFajZhM

 

Planning out placement of the boxes and pouches:

 

AP1GczNq-vuVl8Kmop4fyKofQ_ci1iJdscPxUBym

 

I unfortunately cannot recall where I got the pouches from, but I believe it was a run on the forums. If I find it, I will update this post.

 

Moving along, the 3D printed box backers were nice because I could just zip-tie them on. I ran out of black filament so I just hit them with some black spray paint. I didn't bother doing any prep and finishing on them since they'll barely be visible.

 

AP1GczN5qys-1HvRnxQjcYEiKEF1iyQkWk272dsK

 

You can see the back, including some snaps I'd added to hold the front of the belt up:

 

AP1GczPqPXBq9L7NSmh3j_mntBAB5wDgG0A_BtbV

 

Here are the other belt boxes attached with elastic:

 

AP1GczNtC3hrA9VcjiatExgXFNNBSDiS6eJyQ2tN

 

I may end up adding a snap to the back of the belt if I find it moves around, but for now this is as much assembly I can do prior to painting.

Edited by shashachu
Posted (edited)

The KB TD seemed like a huge pain to assemble, so I went ahead and printed this one from Jesse_M (who also makes the most accurate C3PO files, from what I understand.)

 

 

 

AP1GczOSDCxbqItUFbGIEcdNFfc4BdJKAgTR37Jo

 

I cannot recall if I had to make any modifications to the files to fit the KB TD back plate, but here are some photos showing the fit:

 

AP1GczMAKWvNBZPMghDDeJy3eZMGf-gzPChoILKE

 

Before gluing the halves together, I added nylon bolts for mounting:

 

AP1GczOJwYVgxIwaCydb6EHZONggqbRUJdunwoA8

 

AP1GczP7eb_0HGiQft0x4-4IfysPWwCRyvTGnjML

 

AP1GczPKTA_gTGKCP5aDyfojBZ9N2zxo6P_EKYVu

 

I have very successfully used a garrison-mate's method of acetone-thinned Bondo spot filler (see his YouTube video) on other prints, so I gave it a go on the TD as well:

 

AP1GczOJEcBsLXZ8d5N2O1CNW1LL_aE3G7RjyVkS

 

AP1GczNyG27LU5PV_mBXDQMJtsMPqx-SMnJPpkdJ

 

Primed

 

AP1GczOhr4Tsy_wHNOGuMiiy4IZtLViIyeMdW5qz

 

Still has a tiny seam, which I'll need to address:

 

AP1GczMgr_8eSSiC22GvteV0cpNPZr1eo410ofYB 

Edited by shashachu
Posted (edited)

One thing I did recently as well, was make the 'Finn cut' in the forearms. It was a little nerve-wracking to cut into the forearms, but I'm much happier with the fit. I also checked about 500 times I was cutting the correct side. :)

 

AP1GczMZiONI7v8onbQn62KikvPN1CK1ny566wPY

 

AP1GczP9W4903ZJTK9RbsyaIpPQCziUCrY5rrQHa

Edited by shashachu
Posted

Some additional miscellaneous progress:

 

Cutting the bicep pill holes:

 

AP1GczNhA4KcRe6wzz9dHza6D6hAsNqTnopaFyK3

 

AP1GczNDS16goRpZGj0c64LEhp_GeC_Er0GeOw21

 

Printing the SE-44C:

 

AP1GczNv_31kWM3zRELWArx84e5DSD8L6qZIvYoe

AP1GczMqCDBjQIPLDwt7eicGn9SM_GjGbEoh6Vd_

 

Printing the chest greeblies, although I may try to get someone to print them in resin later:

 

AP1GczO2nAmMT55x_3eF9cLuiVQMRDCSgnv2EiJO

 

Cutting some of the ab out under my armpit area:

 

AP1GczNwpfZ_0QXgX7B0IGIarsobg74xzKDsN6aQ

 

Resizing the gaskets under the armpit area:

 

AP1GczN2QIM91oMU68GJsVdOXGm5l3RVHmSMLlU_

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

So as I alluded to a few posts back, I was happy about the chest and back sizing, but now quite unhappy about the helmet size. It somehow doesn't show as much in photos, but in person I felt like a FOTK Funko pop. I really really didn't want to have to print the helmet, but seeing how amazing @zediyeti looked made me finally bite the bullet. Like Zediyeti I sized my helmet to 92%, but I had to slice it into parts due to my smaller printer bed. Each part took 12-ish hours.

 

1) Top. I used a support blocker under the dome, but you can see how a bunch of supports are needed under the brow. Concerned about the finish, I decided to use PLA as the support interface, and it worked amazingly.

 

AP1GczOQr4yqg-tDzH2GDOnS92PyFzIoycqYkm9W

 

The black is PLA:

 

AP1GczPa7Av1yElgGlZeWUjAkzLIlozIBqBlGnGj

 

The brow surface:

 

AP1GczPz6s5XCdQMIn18pQp3QHiWczUmC2xZ9lbN

 

2) Bottom rear. I was a little too aggressive with support blocking which caused some artifacts near the edges but nothing unfixable:

 

AP1GczM9AyBY4e07L2dR9nzZ-ZYUcCXl1uWAcKIe

 

3) Bottom front:

 

AP1GczO499jgTMKrUF8F0A-Q53_bzSBTPTA3HnpB

 

And a size comparison with the Anovos:

 

AP1GczOYlKGjXz0ogvUsJkdUUi_8-JD8cmtQGnp6

 

AP1GczP7vM-DjB90w__53GA_hEZv5qaMNoNLtTFA

 

AP1GczMrGxZRphJdVq7NRgjoS1u3fTvkbYr4A_q9

 

AP1GczOWQMm8ewswtlI63c-nkMpvA_tIG6X-bjaU

 

AP1GczNLYRdqzHI1PUnwvxHWnlkG4fyi2RAlySCV

 

It is certainly going to be a chore to finish the helmet, but I didn't see a better path forward. It's possible I could have been approved with the Anovos helmet but I know it would have just driven me up the wall every time I looked at it.

  • Like 3
  • Love 2
Posted

Outstanding work scaling down your armor, just wow! 

  • Love 1
Posted

Most recently, I've worked on reshaping the calves. I am planning on just using Velcro to close them, but similar to my OTTK, I'd like them to stay closed without any Velcro to minimize the chance of them popping open during a troop. So I turned to my trusty heat gun to reshape them. 

 

Here's a photo midway through the process; the gap was even larger before:

 

AP1GczOJBqaQ9fq5TgYcI7qI7U-ufzni3Rj7YqAq

 

And after:

 

AP1GczNkD8TlZCy7hf7J8uN_ByGBHmGwAGPwCkmJ

 

The other calf after reshaping:

 

AP1GczODA946j4od_KKu52SAF3_z8iv6DYzDGxke

 

AP1GczN1550AgFdGr_3BPjxAUTSEa5srHdiK_UDb

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Besides the spats, most of the rough assembly for the costume is actually done, so my next big milestone will be to do a whole body test suit-up. Some of the strapping can't easily be done prior to painting, so I am planning on using hot glue to add some temporary strapping, since hot glue can be easily removed with rubbing alcohol. In order to do my suit up, I think this will be my checklist:

 

[ ] Sew the elbow and shoulder gaskets together

[ ] Shoulder strapping

[ ] Ab strapping

[ ] Shoulder/bicep strapping

[ ] Thigh strapping

[ ] Temp butt strapping

[ ] Temp cod strapping

[ ] Temp helmet padding

[ ] Temp chest/back connection

Edited by shashachu
Posted

Great work sizing down your armor!!!  It looks so much better on your frame now.  I had to size down the armor and helmet for my Shoretrooper because the lid was soooo big on me at 1:1 scale.  Your proportions look great!

P.S. Please don't tell me that you've put a pause on your M-O build!!!  

Posted
14 minutes ago, Cricket said:

Great work sizing down your armor!!!  It looks so much better on your frame now.  I had to size down the armor and helmet for my Shoretrooper because the lid was soooo big on me at 1:1 scale.  Your proportions look great!

P.S. Please don't tell me that you've put a pause on your M-O build!!!  

 

Are you even a maker unless you have 8 different projects going at once???? :)

 

I've actually been working a lot on the code for M-O and seeing if I can do a full test of all the electronics. Don't worry!

  • Love 1
Posted (edited)

Question regarding the holster. Like Anzo, my kit did not come with the holster rail/mount, and obviously I cannot ask KB for one now. Is it actually necessary if I have the wedge portion of the R2Dan holster?

 

Looking at this photo, for example, I don't see an additional rail: 

also this one:

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/5711-fotk-r-leg-holster-side-view-2jpg/

Edited by shashachu
Posted
25 minutes ago, shashachu said:

Question regarding the holster. Like Anzo, my kit did not come with the holster rail/mount, and obviously I cannot ask KB for one now. Is it actually necessary if I have the wedge portion of the R2Dan holster?

 

Looking at this photo, for example, I don't see an additional rail: 

also this one:

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/5711-fotk-r-leg-holster-side-view-2jpg/

Here's a front view of that particular display armor, no addition wedge but has the curved mount

large.5ACE6472-727A-443A-BB7A-AE05D93F1F

 

The R2 Dan holster wedge is only to change the angle of the mounting

This display trooper has both which it was based on

kck5urw.jpg

 

The main mount is curved and follows the thigh, I doubt you would be able to get the wedge to do the same.

large.1492870438_FOTKRLegholstersideview

 

Posted
1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

The main mount is curved and follows the thigh, I doubt you would be able to get the wedge to do the same.

 

Do you think it'd be really difficult to sand the wedge to that shape?

Posted
1 hour ago, shashachu said:

Do you think it'd be really difficult to sand the wedge to that shape?

Issue is the piece is already a wedge shape so too thin at one end

ySqfRJM.jpg

 

Here are some free 3D holster files which you may be able to modify

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4057796

large_display_Holster_BottomLayer.stl

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1474100

5904d747984164b6d4b855a4801adb96_display

 

 

Posted

Ah, I see. Thanks for the file links - I must have just not been using the right search terms because I was trying to find files. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Awesome, I hope there will be another tiny trooper around soon! The helmet is definitely a pain in the butt to finish, but it’s well worth it. I’ve tried on my friends anovos helmet with my kit for fun and it looks very silly with how well the rest of my armor fits. ah, we can only dream of an easy to acquire and lightweight helmet :’)

Posted

I went ahead and tinkcercad-ed a simple holster mount. If i were smart I would have put the screw holes in as well, but alas. 

 

AP1GczNyChPIWJaiFFCOYtwm24XSEgGGnqq9lKFk

 

AP1GczMIiy_tMWRbJSPlt2JXL6G5r4ZmHS-x88zT

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, shashachu said:

I went ahead and tinkcercad-ed a simple holster mount. If i were smart I would have put the screw holes in as well, but alas. 

 

AP1GczNyChPIWJaiFFCOYtwm24XSEgGGnqq9lKFk

 

AP1GczMIiy_tMWRbJSPlt2JXL6G5r4ZmHS-x88zT

You don’t happen to know anyone with a denuo novo suit that won’t use the included holster? You could then cut the base and use that.   Also,  I wouldn’t use the wedge, makes the holster stick out to much. Or you could always ask Dan for a mount given you have his holster and he now offers a base. 
If all else fails, I have a denuo Novo holster that I’m not using that you can have. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

You don’t happen to know anyone with a denuo novo suit that won’t use the included holster? You could then cut the base and use that.   Also,  I wouldn’t use the wedge, makes the holster stick out to much. Or you could always ask Dan for a mount given you have his holster and he now offers a base. 
If all else fails, I have a denuo Novo holster that I’m not using that you can have. 

 

Yeah I agree that the wedge makes it stick out a ton. I'll play with positioning before deciding.

 

I also think I could use *just* the wedge and it'd look fine. 

 

I appreciate the offer of the mount - I think at worst I'm fine with my printed one so I don't think I will need yours.

  • Like 1
Posted

I actually messaged the creator of the CGTrader files, asking if they could split the holster from the thigh, and they did! So I'll probably check the measurements and use that one instead.

 

AP1GczOc4hWcvdjaAR7qY9YiT3ynYg1wGd648dJn

  • Like 2

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