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OsotheBear

Doopydoo's Complete Resin kit E-11 Blaster

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If you know someone who plays drums a 5A stick works perfectly! Fits snug as a bug! I followed Luis' advice and used a coat hanger.

 

IMG_1950.jpg

 

IMG_1952.jpg

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that shows the spring dimensions and spacing when it's uncompressed.

in the gun it's compressed. ever consider that fact my brothers!

 

very nice work so far!

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that shows the spring dimensions and spacing when it's uncompressed.

in the gun it's compressed. ever consider that fact my brothers!

 

Exactly Vern - but this important. You need to make sure you make your spring according to the uncompressed dimensions and spacing so that when you insert and compress it you get an accurate reproduction of the compressed spring spacing.

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I know this has been covered in other threads, but I can't seem to find what width aluminum bar is used - 1/16" or 1/8"? I bought 1/16" (by3/4") today and it seems flimsy - like the weight of the doopys scope/hengstler will sag. I also bought a pre-bent "L" for lack of better description, 1/16"x1". My thought was that having a wider counter holder would have it away from the scope a bit more - is that ok/canon? Haven't done anything with them - sitting on my bench waiting for my doopys delivery. Any input is welcomed!

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Hey OP,

 

I love seeing your progress with the pics. This trigger movement was a nice touch, but drawing it on in red to show others was inspired! You should be a teacher lol!

 

Keep em coming!

Bill

Edited by billw134

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Well that depends - why would you prefer your counter sat further away from your scope?

 

I didn't really have a reason...it just looked right when I was picking out the materials. Will have to see what it looks like holding the parts together when I get my kit. I didn't know if anyone else had set theirs up that way.

 

Is 1/16" too thin for the rail?

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Is 1/16" too thin for the rail?

 

There's no agreed 'screen accurate' thickness or width for the scope rail but i would say 1/16" is spot on. :duim:

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There's no agreed 'screen accurate' thickness or width for the scope rail but i would say 1/16" is spot on. :duim:

Cool - it feels a little flimsy, but I realize I won't be using the entire 3' length (that would be for my DLT-19 :) ).

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So I went to Canadian tire and got a round stick that fits inside the doopy's tube and and some wire , the wire is about the same size as a hanger wire, just tiny bit thinner which makes it easy to bend and it will spring better, after that I drew a mark every 13mm as Lucas example for a total of 210mm approx and it's about two turns too long so Vern and Lucas are both right , those are the dimensions and it needs to be compressed a bit, now if you attach the spring directly to the back of the end cap and without the bolt where the cocking handle goes I think then you have to give it a few more turns since it will have to compensate for those two pieces missing

Edited by OsotheBear

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Nice screwing in the grip! Solid bro. Doesn't it feel indestructible like that?

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Nice Work so far. Looking forward to see the finished Product! :)

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Great looking builds guys just wondering myself which would be a better glue to do the resin kit with had another thought too how about gluing and pining some of the larger parts just a thought I found that out when I was doing the big white metal dragon or figures anyone have any thoughts on this ???yep a bit more work but hey whats a project of joy without a bit of hard graft ???another one I want to ask is the doopey doo kit is a bit on the light side is there any way we could add some meat to in ???make it feel like a blaster rather than some plastic kit any ideas would be welcome as I`ve had my kit now for over a year and wanted to build it like its real rather than a resin kit .

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Ivanhoe, I'd use 5 min epoxy for a solid weld on all parts, plus the whole kit assembles much faster. Also, you'd be surprised at how hefty and dense the Doopy's feels when it's done as opposed to when it's still just parts. After the glue, add-on parts, metal rail and bracket, primer/paint, It really feels like you have a blaster in your hand, not a toy. Mine feels super solid and heavy. I'm a big fan of the Doopy's!

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Update, went to Home Depot and got the Allen screws, I started drilling the one on the grip just to practice before the ones on the barrel.IMG_1135.jpgIMG_1139.jpg

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socket head cap screws i think ill get a doopy doo is it worth drilling and tapping and inserting heli-coils for better strength ?

 

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Got around to work on my E-11 a bit last night, also , do you think the ''off'' looks ok before I start carving away?IMG_2700.jpgIMG_2701.jpgIMG_2699.jpg

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I cut the head off a small bolt, drilled a hole in the back of the switch and in to the body, threaded the bolt into the switch then glued the other end into body, the thread in the switch allows you to move the switch into either position.

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ha! that's a great idea! I glued the switch already but the 2 part epoxy is forgiving !

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is the ''off''writing and the corners ok to sand down?

IMG_2703.jpgIMG_2702.jpg

Edited by OsotheBear

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Looks fine, but I would have the bracket bend down instead of up...:-)

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Good idea!!! do you know if there's a canon for that? like the originals had them up or down? or it really doesn't matter either or?

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From the builds I have seen they mostly bend downwards, not sure about cannon

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