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OsotheBear

Doopydoo's Complete Resin kit E-11 Blaster

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My Doopydoo's E-11 Blaster kit just arrived, it took just a bit over 3 weeks to get to Canada and no problem in customs, it looks awesome, the only thing is a small piece broke on it's way here , it's one of the pins from the counter box , I think is were one of the coil cables attaches , do you guys think is an easy fix or should I ask for a replacement ? , I thought one has to drill those 2 plug pins to put in the cables which will make that piece even more delicate and will have less surface to glue it back in. Anyhow the saga begins for this little E-11!!'

 

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Edited by OsotheBear

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When my kit arrived the "fork shaped" part of the stock was broke, but glued back together just fine.

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oh no that sucks, yeah I guess that's the thing with resin eh, What did you use E6000?

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I'd recommend 2 part epoxy sparingly on parts! worked great for me! AND I'd just glue it. After filling, sanding, priming and painting you'll never even know it was ever broken!

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Don't drop it... That peanut butter colored resin shatters. Man, that mold they use is shot. The details of the Master Replicas blaster they recast are pretty soft nowadays... :glare:

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I'd ask Doopys for a replacement (you're paying them to ship your goods safely) AND glue it back together - that way you'll have a spare! :)

 

2 part epoxy glue definitely works well (I've glued a stock "fork" and end cap ring & they were as strong as new). You should still be able to drill a hole for the wires as Doopy's resin is very easy to drill & structurally sound (I managed to hollow out one of their scopes to fit lenses & it's exactly the same one as you've got there, with the number 3 on) ...but yeah, don't drop any of it - china cups bounce better than this stuff! lol

 

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Edited by PlayfulWolfCub

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Update, went to Home Depot and got the Allen screws, I started drilling the one on the grip just to practice before the ones on the barrel.IMG_1135.jpgIMG_1139.jpg

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Allen screw in, used 2 part epoxy just to try, I'm not sure what works better with resin, the epoxy or the E6000

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I'd like to know too what the best adhesive is for resin as well. For wargames I use superglue but for something this big and weighty that's obviously not going to cut it.

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I'm voting for the epoxy, mine feels incredibly solid. I'm absolutely sure it could probably crack with a decent drop, but for just playing around with it (and I've been doing a LOT of that with it!), holstering it quickly, etc. it feels totally solid. I'm also absolutely sure if it did break it wouldn't be where the epoxy was! LOL!

 

I tried E6000 first and after 2 days of waiting for it to cure it still pulled apart easily. I started a thread just for this topic: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=18341&hl=&fromsearch=1 and I was the only one who had trouble but a few said they used epoxy or two part superglue as well.

 

The other thing is the cure time. I was able to assemble just about everything in one evening with the epoxy. And, it created some nice looking "weld" points on some sections.

 

Such as the front sight seams:

 

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And the rear sight and the shoulder bracket clip (kinda hard to see the clip but it made a nice weld-looking point):

 

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You just have to be really careful with the application because it's obviously a bit harder to work with, but if you go relatively sparing with it and try to be creative, I'm sure you can get it to look awesome and like I said above, it'll be the strongest parts of the blaster! A billion times stronger that the resin it's cast with! AND, I figured what a better way to glue a resin but with another resin!

 

Well, good luck and I hope my little epoxy infomercial helped. No, I don't work for the epoxy industry... :laugh1:

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I started off my blaster with E6000. I figured it would be good practice for my armor, and it was forgiving. I've totally switched over to CA glue (Duro Super Glue is what I'm using). The stuff seems to love resin and it bonds fast. The E6000 was really hard to keep clean without having little trails of glue and blobs seeping out where the joints were. Both feel pretty solid once cured, but I'm not tempting fate by pressing too hard either.

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Update, I had the chance to work a bit on the Blaster this week, I got to glue the fork and the end of the folding stock, I still have to apply a second coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 to the join but it's looking good so far, also got to drill and glue the allen screws that go on the muzzle.

I really wanted the trigger to move so I improvised a bit and sanded in the chamber were the trigger rests with the Dremel so the trigger would have room to move, then I took a spring and sanded the diameter of it on the chamber creating a hole where the spring will rest and also a small hole on the trigger to attach the end of the spring to it, then I just drilled trough both of the pieces and inserted a piece of wire, this wire is a bit shorter shorter so I can put putty on the end of the holes so it wont be noticeable, what do you guys think?

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Edited by OsotheBear

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Nice one! That's a brilliant mod with the trigger movement - you should create a separate How To for that.

Great stuff!

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Right on, just make sure the trigger doesn't come out too much or it will touch the trigger guard!!

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That's a great idea! Nice work so far! I'm loving your creativity! :duim:

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Right on man, I'm using your build as a guide, if mine ends up looking half as good as yours I'd be happy!

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Nice Oso - man I got some crazy Canuck standards to live up to now!

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Hello boys and gals I'm gonna try to work a bit on my E-11 this weekend , I got so wire and I wanted to make the spring , nut I have a question, do you know how many turns the spring has on the real starlings ? or if this even matter on the doopy's kit? thanks guys!! :duim:

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Right on!!! that's perfect thanks Lucas, that helps a lot, it even shows the piece that the spring joins with, of course I would have to scale it down a tensy bit cuz the Doppy's kit pipe is too think making the interior a bit smaller

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Indeed. Just find a stick that fits easily into the dopy doos pipe and wrap your wire around that. I've found that it helps if the stick is actually a bit smaller than your intended diameter. When the spring releases or you stretch it it grows a bit in diameter...

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