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Everything posted by john danter
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WOW! HUGE Sale from the woodchuck
john danter replied to WoodChuck's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Wow they are nice email [email protected] over here on the UKG He belong to the RC lads over here and they're growing in number. I'll put a post on the UKG boards for you John -
Loved the way you were determined not to put the camera down and use 2 hands there Yeah seen Andrews videos. Quite informative. I was hoping to see signs of reconstruction on his lid backcap mould....but there's none. Hmm.....?
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Yeah they all move about. I think it might depend on how the backplate was cut off the mould. As the ears purpose is to cover the seam and provide some support. But yes to what Paul said, tilting them forward gives them a nice profile
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Yeah I've heard that, but I did stir it lots and used a little bearing inside the tin. I think it's too dark. I'm just confused as I'm sure I've heard people say they're is too light so they've added black If you look at the films or LFL lids etc, they're much lighter than what you get with no5 today I'm surprised more people haven't commented on this?
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Ok, well thats cool then. Odd thats its not lining up ok though? I don't know if E6000 responds to heat. Give it a go on a test piece. I think it might as it's not really a solvent, it's an adhesive A heat gun would be ok if it's a variable one and you take your time. I'm just worried you'll blister the HIPS and possibly get orange peel from it getting too hot. Watch out if its HIPS too as HIPS is less elastic than ABS and might crack under the strain you put on it. Try a hairdryer / heat gun evenly over the area you want to bend otherwise you might get creases
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Question about TE derived helmets
john danter replied to TK3202's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
I agree with Paul on that This also came up on another heated debated lately lol. Recasts (let's not forget that's what they are here lads - good yes but still recasts) will never produce the same results as the first. Someone needed to do it or we wouldn't have a hobby. So I'm not knocking anyone, just stating a fact Not only that, pouring a heavy moudling liquid into a paper thin plastic shell some 20+ yrs old (at the time) is bound to make that original shape deform....? There are ways around that too but whatever you do, you have to hope you're source helmet was a great pull to capture all these details and your casting worked treat. Going back to the original point...... Was the poster saying he's noticed differences in terms of where things are on the faceplate? E.g. 1 helmet is 37mm from left eye corner to frown corner but helmet 2 is 42mm Or have what people have answered here so far answered your question? -
Depends what glue you used Hot glue will melt but ABS glue won't as its fused the parts together
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Dude what armour are you sticking together and is it possible you've stuck them together wrong? Eg left legs right half onto right legs right half? That kind of thing If it's accurate armour you may have done this? Hair drier is always best as it won't ever get hot enough to mark your armour Other types of heat will. Oven, heat gun etc When it starts to bend, leave it be as it holds heat for a few seconds an doesn't need anymore until it goes stiff again Maybe get elastic webbing to hold the shape you want, use the hairdryer to soften the plastic and when your happy use cold water asap to 'freeze' the shape
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Armor Choice - Picking the brains of the experts
john danter replied to Jorran's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Well based on what you've said I'd go FX Cheapest one out there and can be trimmed do it fits you better and you don't walk like a recently assaulted prison inmate lol I have FX with a screen accurate chest plate TM and a pair of my own shoulder bells to make the suit look more iconic Works for me I'm not totally screen accurate as a result but it fits me far nicer than anyother suit ever could as I've cut most parts to fit me and ive had it 7+ years with no cracks in sight If you're 5ft 8 plus nearing on 6ft and slim you're lucky enough to look good in accurate armour. If you're not that build buying accurate armour will mean things may rub and eventually crack. If you want to go close to a screen accurate look on a budget you can do it -
Leigh, I've got about 30 of these in my front room. I'll bring some to Mem ok Special price as you're Welsh
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Does this help dude? ANH for you
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Zap will work from Tony yes I use a UK based one, will have to dig out bottles from the shed
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Question about TE derived helmets
john danter replied to TK3202's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Yeah good point What I forgot to mention as well is some moulds are taken from the outside, some from the inside I did know who had done it which way at one point but can't remember ATM lol TM mentioned this recently the other day -
Question about TE derived helmets
john danter replied to TK3202's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
I highlighted this fact that theyre all different on a recent 'debate' on my garrisons forums recently Noticed it a while back rings don't line up as they should Forming based differences like curves and undercuts can be explained simply by the nature of different plastics, a bad pull, where the mould was on the vac bed (heater element variances - usually hotter at source than elsewhere) and are all understandable why lids tend to be different. But why even tear drops or trapezoids move around on some of these lids is not Hinging that faceplate makes a huge difference!!!! I managed to make my SDS sit nicer by hacking an inch out either side and hinging it deeper in the lid. So never compare lengths between the face and the top of the lid etc, they will move due to construction But the distance from the corner of the eye to the cheekbone tube shouldn't (it's the same bit of plastic) Are you saying you've noticed things like that dont match up? I've never measured them, just visually noticed them John -
Why not save the 'find new posts' link as a favourite in your browser? Just click that rattler than fiddling resizing your windows etc? I have all my geeky forums saved this way and just add them to my bar on the top Done this for safari and IE8 John
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I like the 2 part superglues you can buy for stuff like this The superglue is very runny and gets into cracks great by capillary actioin The activator spray makes it go hard in an instant Sands up nice too
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What do you guys think of the new modern shade of No 5? I personally think it's now too dark but I'm sure I'm heard folk saying it's too light? It doesn't match some of the LFL lids and screen shots anymore that's for sure What do you guys think? John
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Out of interest, where do you girls normally get the chest plate etc from?
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My First Big Brown Box
john danter replied to SapaWanmdi's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Looking forward to seeing pics A good tip for smoothing the newly cut plastic edge is to use a pinch of wire wool You'll see what I mean when use use it. Gives a lovely rounded smooth edge -
Painting Rank on Ear Piece
john danter replied to John G.'s topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Holy Binary!!!! Loving that Paul. Very nice. 8) (I will not throw a spanner in the works and draw your attention to the 3 bump hero lids ok lol ) -
How should the Ab and cod piece fit
john danter replied to Necron's topic in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
I cut mine, took an inch out of the length, then just stuck them back together with 2" elastic and ABS glue -
I think they're medals awarded by Vader everytime a Stormtrooper hit a target
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Oh dear, did not know that. PS: I never had any trouble. Shame
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eFX Mod parts needed!
john danter replied to opentheblastdoors's topic in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
I have ears for sale dude Hero and stunt but I'm not sure what an efx lid is..?---- -
Where and where not to put a return edge
john danter replied to Zefram's topic in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
This kind of thing, which can be seen on the side of the kidney back plate