john danter

Agreed Scissors like that are a god send if you work with plastic

I think you'd be hard pressed to spot them. Since the films, folks have got their hands on some of the screen used lids. horrid looking things, with flakey paint and all sorts of bumps and spots ---- Some say it was because AA used to make fish ponds using rocks etc, so his vac former had left over pieces of rock, creating the horrid appearnce on some of the stunt lids. Hope that helps? John

Ricky, there'll be a few events in or near to Cardiff soon Saturday 12th T M0bile Event ~Merthyr Tydfil~South Wales-Rhyd-y-car Leisure Centre, Merthyr Tydfil Saturday 26th Cardiff Comic Expo ~ Cardiff-Mecure Holland House Hotel, Cardiff Hope that helps Lots of us do international troops. the Star Wars Celebrations are a favourite, as are things like Legoland troops in Germany etc In the UK, usually when you start, you'll go all over the UK to troop but then may just go for ones near to you...? Sometimes we have weekend troops and we stay for several days. these are great as you get to socialise in the hitel afterwards etc John PS: I live in Cardiff

Ok makes sense as to why Graham wanted another source for the lid then

Do those look the same as the snowie shots above though? Could just be the weathering they used on the edges?

I catch your drift Cheers Paul. What did you base them on? Screen grabs and stuff? They remind me of horses hooves

Sorry to revoke an old thread....... Lads, there is no way on earth that a VSF lid is a recast of an SDS battlespec. Impossible time scale wise for a start. VSF, VaderMaker SciFactory was made by the late Graham Cambpell. Founder of the UKG!!! The helmets have been around for years, 2004 at least! SDS battlespec wasn't around then? VSF armour moulds are in possession by Mark Oijika ands he's had them some 10- 11 years. He and Graham never liked the helmet moulds they had and so Graham then went on and sourced a screen used lid from someone and cast it. Just like he did with a Vader helmet. Lots have said it's possibly a Meatsock recast? Meatstock is 2 piece, VSF was 3 and the timing of each don't match up, but I'm not sure. Graham was a very honourable guy and I doubt he would have been involved in recasting at all!!

I've got a break from work ATM so am busy revisiting some of my moulds and this week I've been mostly eating ESB hand plates Do they look ok? Or do I need to mod them at all? I mainly based them on this pic here What do you think? They'll be £5 a pair when I'm happy with them

People like this make me sick! What's wrong with people and why become so greedy!!!

I can save you some bother on the ears I have one or two lying around

Yeah I know, for ROTJ you'd only have one screw anyway Just worried one would let it be prone to twisting? Ta

Hello! Do you often find your E11 scope falls off? This is normally due to the small contact area between scope and scope rail. ANH had screws that come up into the scope from beneath the scope rail and this provides a good bond but can still come off travelling or during a bump/drop etc. ESB stunt and ROTJ have solid scope mounts so can be a problem area When creating the blaster try and do it as follows Screwed together That way above it shouldn't fall off (neither will the method below) But if yours does fall off at a later date you need to fix it without ripping the whole thing apart and needing a major respray etc Proposed Solution: This method is a way of getting a screw all the way through the scope from above and imbedded into the scope rail/mount . Make sure you mark the scope rail/mount with the drill bit as this is where the 2 new securing nuts will go Use masking tape to secure the scope back onto your scope rail. Drill 2 holes down through the top of the scope and into the scope rail Bore out scope holes to allow a counter sunk screw to sit below the surface of the scope like this Use screw long enough to come through the scope and about a 1cm into the scope rail body Bore the scope rail holes out so they're a tight 'snug' fit for some nuts to match your screws. Add superglue onto the nuts and push them in. Use the screws to line them up flat like this Sand the scope rail and bottom of the scopes to get a good surface for glueing Now the nuts are in place and dry put the screws into the scope and screw together. Make sure the screw head screw in tight and below the scope surface Filling with milliput. Paint. Bingo! A fixed scope that shouldn't fall off so easily in future

Yeah I was about to say about speakers My mod relies on hollow tips like yours, especially if they just hollow tubes not cup like, like yours Nipples are cool but you'll have to do a chest mod or belts then Me, I love in lid speakers! Much more confident trooping

Yeah it went yesterday afternoon His old web online bingo bingo thingy still works about 60% though

Yeah Justice, try to be cool about it all. It has been xmas. I know you started all this back in Oct, but 2 months is still pretty good for these guys. I don't know many that are quicker. Only me, lol. But I make small stuff not a whole suit. He's on these boards so won't rip you off. Not worth his time TBH. What he makes off you by not sending, he'll lose 100 times over from a bad rep. Be cool

I've got hole punches big enough to smack a hole in one out that mesh mind Try the same thing rather than trimming. It's the trimming that messes them up

Sorry, I should have looked at your location. Lol Yep, try Halfords dude Don't laugh, but I wonder if spraying woven ones with loads of hairspray may help it stop un-ravelling a bit?

Sculting with styrene? lol Ah, flat bits stuck on top of one another? Well that's more less what I did with the ANH hand plates. Get the basic shape, use a rolling pin for making cakes (I used a glass, don't tell Becky ) and then just cut the strips and lay them on top of one another

Dunno. Think mine is square I use Halfords over here. Chain of overly priced rip off shops all over the UK. Great matt black spray though

Hello folks. Just thought I'd slap a thread up on helping each other sculpting. Not seen any on here....? Really easy to do. Here I'll be showing you 3 things all made with air drying clay and things in my kitchen. Knives, spare strips of ABS, sandpaper and paper towels ANH handplates ESB/ROTJ handplates Zam Wessel Handplates ANH Handplates: I'm convinced that ANH handplates are asymmetrical. One has a flat knuckle edge, the other a curve Here's my version Start with a rough shape made out of strips of clay pushed together when wet. You can flatten the clay with a rolling pin or a cylindrical drinking glass. Get the layer then cut out (bigger than you actually need) with a knife and lay on top. Cut it out bigger so you can correct for mistakes by taking clay away as you smooth any sharp edges. Sharpen up with flat CLEAN edges. It's important to have the clay a little wet and your tool CLEAN. (lol) Otherwise it'll tear at the clay. I'm using a spare ABS strip As you cut away parts, if you over do it, clay is great as you get a small bit and mash it back into the original 'blob' until you're happy. You can strips strips to build bulk in an area and just swipe it away with a knife and a cutting by pushing action to remove the parts you don't I cut it down to size with a kitchen knife with vertical movements, but also leave an angle so these can be vac formed I use scuplting tools to get detail in. Again, keep clean and free from drying clay Another bit of ABS helps to form the detail and slope effect seen. Do this by stroking in alternate ways along the line you want When that's done and you're happy (I never am) start on the other one Again, always use clean tools to carve into the clay. Here's I'm trying to get everything square and flat ESB/ROTJ handplates A different clay is used here but still air drying Get your basic shape and start to carve the detail. I let this dry out too much and it actually made my life easier. As the clay is then harder, you're less likely to make mistakes as removing hard clay is tougher than wet clay. This shape is more organic and fun to create and feel in your hands Most clay was removed with sandpaper in circular movements as this is more of an organic smooth shape. Use a chisel to get big chunks out and sand paper to get it fine again The great thing with this type of clay is, even though it dries hard, if you wet it again it responds like normal clay once more Here a paper towel is used to remove clay I don't want and to smooth back my carved detail line Sanding will remove the clay you want when dry. Wet again to smooth over with your finger or paper towel to get a really smooth finish Line them up for comparison of size, spot what obviously needs fixing (the mid line) and fix away This is what I was trying to make Zam Wessel handplates These were for my lovely Beckys Zam Wessel costume. Very proud of it all Bare in mind that when you vac form things the outer facing side will never have a 90 degree sharp corner. You have to make this yourself with square files The wrist was too curved so this was just sandpapered down Clean up the mess before your other half gets home Here I'm making vac form moulds, but I could easily make things that I could then cast up and make into resin copies etc. Hope this helps or inspires someone who's struggling to make a part they need John

That's why I suggested car body shops. Woven mesh will fall apart when you cut it up. Welded mesh, like body filler mesh isn't always like that. Although I'm sure some woven ones exist

Any car body shop should have it People use it as a base in which to 'plaster' over with filler

Obviously a recaster. I've not heard that name before. Check the dented helmet as he sells Boba Fett stuff. Cheap though!

Man, I feel sick reading my comments above. Sorry guys AA a great chap, toilet parts!!? Where's my toilet.... lol

Hi Lads I 100% know what was used to make the bottles. I've been in touch with someone involved in making them and their vague memories and a little bit of sniffing I've nailed it 100%. I can match those bottles 100% and prove it as well. Thing I'm not too sure on is the bottom part Now then, at the time of making mine, it was kind of rushed for CE, but now I'm in no rush and want to make these as best I can Thing is, I don't know what the bottom part was made from....? I was hoping the making of books would help and shed a little light but it just confuses things TBH. The book doesn't make sense. Anyway.... I plan to make a few more of these but wanted an opinion on the bottom part. Do you like my current bottom or should I try and replicate a toy version, as such... *NB these bottles are a very good likeness to the bottles used. However, the hose and position of attachment to the helmet, are not The shape of this style lower part kind of tallies up with my photoshop work of what the actual shape of the lower part might be.