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Everything posted by john danter
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Making this baby for my snowie I had to find 3 EU refs of snowies using a DLT20A (the gun that also IG88 has) most came from games etc so I got a green light to make it. I almost cut my finger off in the process but eventually made this..... I love trooping with it Finishing my girlfriends Zam Wessel outfit also pretty cool. Especially when I saw her on stage at CE
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Pandatrooper PVC pipe plaster build
john danter replied to pandatrooper's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
very clean build. Loving your work -
Where to get the best/most accurate E-11.
john danter replied to Rolf's topic in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Steve for the UK produces some very accurate parts that you can add on to a PVC pipe. Much like Doopy and lots of others, but with a bit of extra love dolloped on top Check out my ESB E11 thread. For example, I'm very impressed with the underside shoulder butt plate. You can cut out the sections (I'm think the Y shaped hole) as they're hollow and individual, not solid resin casts like most people do -
First post edited to show an upgrade using greeblie set *NB some of the greeblies I'd already made myself so this isn't a complete upgrade tutorial. MODS: Feel free to move to relevant section if you feel this is a tutorial or helpful...?
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Advice on attaching shoulder straps to chest/back
john danter replied to FEZ's topic in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
Yeah I glue mine on too. Don't put too much on in case it spills over the edges. Hot glue will also work well and can be removed with a hair drier if you mess up with the rear alignment Plus easy to peel off the excess I'd go for hot glue as it's more forgiving if you make a mistake. Just heat it up and move it about -
geek
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Email him on the address I've given in my first post [email protected]
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In the UK there's been a Royal Philhamronic tour whilst screening the Str Wars music films They had lots of screen used props there, helmets, blaster and sabers etc. Several UKG members took lots if shots of it. I have a bug bear about TKs using the wrong blaster and people complained they couldn't get the ESB greeblies (I tried to make my own many years back if you remember?) Steve is a little more skilled than myself so made those up I guess You look at any scren grab and you can make out the E11s have extra greeblies (a mid point between ANH and the eventual ROTJ I guess?) so it's not hard to work it what they need to look like John Pugmans blaster, which I almost bought myself is exactly the same as the one on display although I don't know if Johns has the same weird glass in the scope? if you can afford Johns, go for it. I'd like to own one. If not this greeblie set takes you to 99% accuracy with a kittle mods yourself (file the muzzle flat etc) I'm kitting out my spare E11 ESB style so will make a tutorial soon
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I think I have a tutorial on here which shows how to successfully make in helmet speakers The trick is to limit the backward inward sound by several means. At first I tried aerosol caps and filled them with blutac. That worked great. Next step was for me to get my vac former out and make these Hollow out the helemt and superglue the hovi tips into the recess ---------- This way sounds prjects clearly outward -------- Also use one of these mics -------- Not one of the pad like things Bikers like to use. Feedback city with those Out of interest, I have some spare speakers and left over formed caps:)
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Don't get me wrong John, your casts are superb yes It's just most of us will already have an accurate L2A3 cast from the many suppliers, now, we can jazz them up by adding Steve's greeblies. Comparing his work to a Rubies pile of trash is a tad harsh my friend
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I only say this becuase from time to time a auction appears on Ebay for a claimed screen used E11 Apparently they were loaned to the studio by a company called Baptys Baptys recycled the blasters to be used elsewhere and 'apparently' wanted them back as they were sent to them i.e no scopes and no counters. Maybe thats why they started casting the props in resin for ESB? Saying that, whos to say that that E11 above isn't an ESB version. ANH had lots of different versions, so who knows. I just don't trust the prop store, it's open to too much abuse and that auction would raise many a knowledged eyebrow. If it is a screen used E11, it's just a screen used sterling and someone has then come along and added the parts we know today. (Scope and rails etc) Therefore, it's not screen used at all It might be, but I just doubt it
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I have this from pugman He owns an actual screen used ESB stunt cast E11 that you can clearly see the file teeth marks on it He sells casts of these for a very lareg sum of cash. Steve's upgrade kit looks like a more viable alternative
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I wouldn't touch the prop store with a barge pole mate I have pictures of a film used ESB E11 from the Musical Orchestral tour as they had one in a glass cage Rubber T tracks all over it. No metal brackets anywhere in sight
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They are made from polyurethane He will make the set or make you a whole blaster too I guess I'm afraid I have no idea on price as I won this in an auction and then asked him if he had more greeblies for sale and he did
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I just posted this in the blasters section This is how it should look
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Hello chaps Sorry I've not been on the forums of late. I've deserted you all and gone snowie, lol. Still have my TK and space TK so don't panic. As some of you may know the E11s in each on the OT films changed with each film. ESB has it's own variation of the E11 with some very weird and oddly shaped greeblies. Most people just use what ever blaster they can find and that bugs the living daylights out me!!! We'll quite happily complain we don't have the correct shade grey or the wrong shaped ear screws, but will walk around with anything in our hands, as long as it's black But now we can all obtain the correct looking super accurate greeblies to kit out our ESB E11 from Steve Tangod Fett. [email protected] Steve makes these all himself and here they're glued onto a PVC pipe. He makes everything, from butt cap to T track....which is lovely and flexible with him. He sells the greeblies in kit form and would either sell you the whole kit, or just the 'upgrade' kit to enhance you current E11. I may do a tutorial on the differences and how to stick them on etc soon They are made from polyurathane and are super light and flexible Below are pics of my recent auction win at the NSC (complete blaster from PVC pipe) and Steve has finally made a set of moulds to enable him to make more of these on demand so you can now have your own accurate blaster to go with your accurate costume I also bought a kit of greeblies for him to do my other blaster I spoke to Steve about this a long time ago and he's done all his homework and come up with the goods. So here he can sell the greeblie kit, or all of it I guess. Best to ask him. I can't speak highly of his work, I'm very, very impressed with it all Super light, super flexible, super accurate Steve is a moderator and highly skilled boffin on the RPB prop boards so knows his onions Enjoy your accurate trooping John EDIT Post edited to show steps taken to make my old E11 into an ESB version using some of Steve greeblie upgrades First I filed down the front end and filled with milliput Then I superglued some nuts flat and square into predrilled holes into the scope The greeblies come in a pour mould so they may need filing down before being stuck into the correct positions, shown here Line up to check dimensions Screw into blaster and attach scope rail (screws will be filled over later) or glue use glue to attach rail. I don't trust that method alone right side complete left side complete PS: I just noticed, Billhags ESB blaster photos are missing the forth circle (shown on the right rear of the rear sight on the scope rail) All this was done in an hour, re spray next *NB please note I'df already added some greeblies to my E11 a long time ago. I was missing the correct rail and concrete clips
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Glue mate heat the strap and bend to curve and fit glue to the chest plate only leave the back floating or use magnets to stabilize them....? Use black webbing/elastic 'underneath' the strap to connect front and back plate hold your bells in place with a neck brace around your neck don't connect them to the shoulder strrap as they'll crack John
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Smaller chest and back plates
john danter replied to SithTrooper's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
If you're worried about length, you can make them 'look' smaller by trying this and attaching them differently This way, the neck hole can be really small as they come apart So cos of that, you can pull them higher up your abdomen. I have a TM one and do this cos I'm very wee lol Or is it sideways you're worried about? Your arms can't close comfortable when you hold your blaster? If so, look at the mod on making your own return edge on cut armour TM, SDS (if parts are available) TE AP and many others are smaller yes. I'd cut it...go on -
Terry, just do it once in a while mate. No need to do it all the time as you get bored of it anyway. The odd troop makes it more special. Sont get rid of it. If cash becomes a problem, you have 2 kidneys......but only one TK suit John
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Cool find I'd say thats there to stop the bicep sliding down and pinching Han's skin. We've all done it but maybe Mr Ford didn't like it so they just glued them on? If that elastic band sits at the wrong height (without the hook) it forces the bicep down and then it does pinch and causes your shoulders to stick out. Cool little mod that. I've never seen it before
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Stuff the kids, I'd love that for myself Yeah, shame its a wind up. I just spent 5 minutes trying to find a UK based one
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Ah right, sorry. Ok Luke's bells had the swoop on the left. Hans are a little different. My shoulder bells are made Luke's way. The right hand one is straight and a different shape in my opinion to the left. This is based on the death star scenes and scenes of TKs in the Tantive etc The left has a capital L on it that swoops as you right it. Look at Luke in the death star scenes
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Gluing BOTH halves of the thigh/bicep/forearm
john danter replied to Xyphis's topic in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Same here Due to the angle of our feet the only part of the amour we can't 'slip on' is the calf piece Glue both parts of everything else. Although it might be a good idea to leave one end un glued during build phase so you can trim them for snug fittings etc. -
How tight should everything fit?
john danter replied to TK-5988's topic in Getting Started - Read this First!
I made mine very 'form hugging' lol I think it looks much better if the suit looks like it fits you rather than it just being on you. But bare in mind that as time goes on and your lifestyle may change for a bit, you'll put weight on. If you make it too tight, the armour can then be too tight during those podgy months ATM I need to get out on my bike for a bit before it'll fit me comfortably again. Still fits but it's a little tight