john danter

Depends what armour you have? If you have a 2 piece back, then around the tops and bottom of your kidney plate needs one (sides dont) Really depends what armour you have dude..?

Dude thats awesome. I was going to suggest a brass effect on the scope, as lots forget.....not you Good work

Is he? Scumpunk. Who's he recasted?

Yeah seems thin and I've heard bad things about those folk Does look really nice though Maybe ok for display?

Try mixing the acrylic paint with latex Acrylic paints flex a little anyway but the addition of latex will flex a lot more

I just used my drill on high speed. Small hole then got larger I know what you mean about the clogging nature of the rubber, but a small hole to start worked for me

I don't know. I looked just now too and now there's some guy in Oz selling them, but in the past we've had them from Hong Kong.....hang on, I'll check the UKG site now Here you go A lot cheaper than the swine from Oz -------------

Could you not get a canvas belt or simply sew a backing of some sort in between 2 layers or just simply behind your elastic? If you stitched 2/3 layers of that stuff you have together it will work and be more of a stiffer belt Why did you chose that to make a belt from anyway?

Lots of people dis Cushman but I've had some great success with 3 of his guns so far. They're vac formed over a real gun so obviously aren't as sharp as a cast would be.......BUt With a bit of skill and forward thinking you can turn his soft curves into sharp lines with a few angular files Example of my DLT20A from his vac form of an STG44

Search for SKIN Microphone on ebay :|) Lots in the UKG use this mic now

Lol, I know

Cheers Paul As it goes, I've just upgraded my moulds to cater for 3 bump demand Done the same for my 4 bump version too Plus soon I'll be making my latex ear switches again. Serious lid pimping I've made my own vac form mould to enable me to make a simple ear with a recessed hole You cut this out and file it, like you do your frown vents, to make the correct sized hole. The switch hides inside there The flexible antenna can then be used to control fans, RomFx or whatever you want. The antenna is made from a flexible compound to enable you to press a hidden switch that can be momentary (for samples or Troopercom) or latched (for power etc)

Shop around dude I almost did this myself and got put off by the limited length until I found a company here in the uk who I'd pay just to make the extrusion mould first The actual track would then be pennies /m I just never got around to it but if you look around and find someone to do both you'll be fine GINO, maybe you should have done what this guy is doing. A bit of homework on demand va expected costs first Mine didn't come to anywhere near yours guys. Shop around please

Robert, actually your pipe is more accurate dude My friend 3D laser scanned my real sterling and measured every piece. There's not one metric measurement on there All imperial

Loving the state of that desk dude Try either of the following to sort those holes out. My tool suggested above (hand held reamer) A circular file (large one,) spun around a few times inside the holes Dash's advice is ace too! Re drill and let it spin as suggested above

These little things are brilliant mind !!!! Glad to see you're making progress, and a PVC blaster

These hand held hole tappers are great too Sold in radio control car shops usually http://www.google.co.uk/m/search?site=images&gl=uk&client=safari&source=mog&hl=en&aq=f&oq=&aqi=-k0d0t0&fkt=2791&fsdt=15808&q=hole+tapper+RC#i=10

It's going to fur up dude due to the heat generated by the friction Centre tap the holes first, then a small bit then a larger one Finish off with slow turns if your drill can do that? That will clear most crud away for you......but it'll never be totally clean and will require some sanding I recommend a semi circular file for the insides John

Velcro works fine to close the clam shell yes Screen accurate method looks similar to bra strap hook and eyes To stop it spinning on your leg, foam works fine

Appliance white is usually a good one to chose Fridges, cookers that kind of white

The things inside them are called Reed Switches They throw when they go near a magnet Maybe even cheaper to buy one of them from Radioshack/Maplin than hack up a cycle computer? Something like this -------------

Update, just found out from Steve Tango'd Fett they used Glass as it based on an original scope they canibalised

I know the ESB ones had a diamond knurled type pattern from overhead lights Not sure about the ROTJ though

Could it not depend on how you pad the lid out my friend i.e, if you place a strip of foam on your forehead (inside the lid) that will automatically push the lid back away from your lenses? That said, I don't wear glasses, so hopefully someone will have an answer Contacts? John

He let it slip to me that he actually forms them himself, obviously, but sends his lids, poorly and quickly trimmed off the moulds down the round to a local college. Some kids there assemble them for him.....!! This explains why they're awful at times. I cut mine up and trimmed more off my faceplate sides (this a hero BTW) and now it look a lot more 'accurate' Some complain the lids faceplate angle sticks out too much, and it does, but some don't. It depends who's trimmed it, fitted it I guess. anyway, with a bit of modifying the faceplate side cuts, you can make the plate sit squarer.... This applies to your wonky battlespec too. Just cut an inch off one side and reassemble it to be square. It's not the mould, I hope anyway, it's the monkeys who assemble them for him I don't want to defend the guy cos it's not worth it and it seems he's been proven to be a bit of lying scumpunk lol