firebladejedi

True i normally have to wait between 7-10 months for receiving items from _ _ so hang in there

You can trim here also, i usually leave this part there though..

This is just where i have my inaccurate snaps located. About an inch inside the top in the centre.

Sounds like a big waist of time, effort and money to me.

If you look at my second pic I over trimmed one of the teeth cut outs. After paint you don't really notice so don't worry. The real stuff looks rubbish up close, so it all adds to the flavour.

I found the ATA a really easy helmet to work with and built it within a couple of hours. The hips is very easy to cut, using the curved trimming scissors as shown by Rich above. The score and snap technique will make the plastic chin at the edge if you dont do it the right way. Best to lightly run your blade where you want to make the cut and keep doing so until the plastic snaps on its own. Dont try to force the cut through, let the knife do the work. Here it is after assembly.

I don't know about TM but there is a guy on here going by the name TrooperMasterâ„¢ who was selling some very nice looking helmets this week, maybe you should look him up?

OK lets pin and close this topic

Ok legs get this done and finished. EIB Requirement ~ Side closer rivet thread. Rivets on the left side of the ab/kidney plates: a total of six rivets with three on the ab and three on the kidney plate, equally spaced out along the depth of the armour and about 10mm from the edge. They may be painted white, or not The six rivets are 9mm. Split rivets including jeans rivets can be used, please note they are not regular pop rivets and have solid caps. On the right hand side of the torso there is one male snap on the front ab plate. You see the back side of a 15mm male snap. Camping snaps without text or patterns look best. You will also see that the belt was held in place by a single snap on either side of the front torso. Also under the crotch the elastic was attached to the armour with a split rivet to the front and two snaps at the rear. Drilled all the way throught the armour.

Above post updated the side rivets I use are 9mm

AP helmets alwasy seem to be some of the smallest and one with which people usually swap out to go with fx armour, check the boards for sales.

Hi Graham send me a pm for a canvas belt to go with that nice TM armour

I would use black elastic for closing the sides of the torso, if thats what you're asking like so.. The armour body

Yep that pic is an sds part

I use jeans rivets on my belt so that there is no ugly back end of a pop rivet waiting to catch on the armour somewhere, these are flat both sides. Check your local fabric store.

Ok if you want to do this to follow the way the screen suits were you will like to follow this. The plastic ammo belt is riveted to the canvas belt and the rivet covers are glued over the top to hide the rivets. Here is is just before i riveted the plastic ammo part to the canvas belt The drop boxes are rivited to the 1 inch white elastic which is simply looped over the belt so they can freely move around If your going all the way the belt was held up to the ab plate using 2 snaps, on the inside of the elastic for the drop boxes just like this The holster is attached using 4 screws or rivets for the hero version and 2 for the stunt version.

Thats Chazz' ol bucket? Very nice addition for your colection

The right eye needs to be trimmed a little more, there is some flashing still in the corner Er, is it me, or are the rear decals on the wrong sides? The thicks tripes should be on the inside, but apart from that i really like it

If you want the brand names you better get building a tardis... The 6 side rivets are not pop rivets they are split rivets and look like this, as I have been saying for the last two years... The single snap is just that. 15mm seems to be the right size visually, try some out to see what you like. It's the backend of the male part. You will also want male snaps directly through the front torso to hold up the belt and split rivets and snaps though the crotch if your going for accuracy. All this info is here at fisd ad nausium if you keep up or do a little searching.

Mmmm I think it is becoming more obvious that the suits and helmets were all painted

Yes the old school thoughts were that the blue was a dark colour, hense the use of #15. However it has become increasingly obvious that the colours used were of a lighter nature hense the more popular use nowadays of the #14. As for painting tips, when i paint my buttons i trace the raised outline with a pencil and just fill with paint as neatly as i can, no need for fancy templates or masking tape. Just paint away, if it turns out a little messy all the better

Approx. 15mm snap for the single right side of torso. Approx. 9mm for the set of six split rivets on the left side of torso.

In my humble opinion i would spend my hard earned else where, somewhere other than sds His BS helmet is rather odd, having extra bits glued on to the ears and vocoder which is far from accurate. I think you would do better with a cheaper, better looking helmet from someone who does not trade on the skills of dead artist's However if you choose this item, it will be fine for membership in the 501st and here at fisd, you may just need to spend some time and effort on it

We all do Matt.

That's a real shame Carsten I hope it turns up. I have wanted one of these for a long time, and if I had just bought one and it too got lost, I would be pretty pissed. Was the package insured?