Doggydoc

Have confidence that it will come. I waited18 months for mine and have been very happy with it.

Congratulations

The line drawn on the image is not an exact requirement. the sniper knee plate back edges should be straight angles and not curves. The line image is an approximation of where the cut should be made. For sure it would be a good idea to draw the line in pencil first and check before cutting. We are all here to help you succeed and will provide any and all advice you need. Please just paint the parts that I have highlighted in the images. There are a couple of areas that should not be black such as the bolt and a portion of the trigger assembly. The areas that I highlighted on your review should be blacked out as they were in the film. I see your point here and understand the confusion as the exact issues were not flagged on a previous application. The simple answer is that we are only human and can at times miss things. In the previous application, the issue was overlooked on our end. We always try and have several sets of eyes on each review but sometimes a detail may slip through the cracks. With several of us working on the reviews and one person in particular taking the lead and doing the deep dive into the review, with the others looking at the review before it is published, we can sometimes have slightly different approaches to the approval process. Please try to understand that we try our best to be consistent with the reviews but once in a while, something may slip through the cracks.

Hello @AndreasSjodin Andreas, Thank you for getting all of those extra photos uploaded. We have looked over your costume and there are a few fixes that we are going to request before we can give you the EIB ranking. Lets start at the top and work our way down. Shoulder Straps Your right shoulder strap is slightly raised off the back armour. We would like to see it sitting flat on the armour as your left side is. This should be a fairly easy fix with a hot water bath and carefully bending the strap downwards. References Gloves There is some lettering present on your gloves still, it looks like you were able to remove the portion next to the handgaurd but have not removed the portion farther up the glove. Please remove all logos from the glove so that nothing will be seen if the forearm armour moves up slightly. CRL L1: Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed. References Posterior Armour Your posterior armour is sitting a little far back compared to your kidney armour plate. This is a fairly common issue and can be corrected with clips on the inner side of the armour to hold the posterior armour plate in. References Belt Your belt has some loose threads on it. Please take a few minutes and trim these off to give the belt an overall cleaner look. References Thermal Detonator The control panel on the thermal detonator should face backwards. Yours is facing up slightly. CRL L1: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. This can be fixed by simply "unrolling the lower portion of the thermal detonator bracket slightly to roll the TD downward a bit. References Lower Leg Armour A bit of trimming on your sniper knee plate will give it a much more screen accurate look. This should be a fairly simple fix and should only take a few minutes. References We would like to see the lower edge of the back part of the lower leg armour evened out so that the lower edge is even across both sides of the armour. This should be a simple trim and sand job and hopefully will only take a few minutes. References Blaster We are going to need you to take a few minutes and a bit of black paint and paint out the silver hardware on the blaster. In addition, although the wires and resistors on the power cylinders look great unpainted, they should also be black for screen accuracy. References

Hello Kyle, Welcome to the FISD - looking forward to following your build.

Congratulations Mark. you did a great job on the fixes that were requested and I can't wait to see you in the costume. Now lets work on that EIB and Centurion approval

Hi @AndreasSjodin Looks like we are going to need a few more photos for your EIB review. Could you please add the following photos? Left side detail (arms raised showing ab/kidney connection clearly) Right side detail (arms raised showing ab/kidney connection clearly) Abdomen button plates (close-up) Cod and posterior plate connections showing rivet/snaps (exterior) Wrist openings (close-up) Close-up of ab/kidney rivets "Han" snap Left sniper knee plate close up Right sniper knee plate close up Left thigh ammo pack rivet close up Right thigh ammo pack rivet close up Boots (showing tops and sides) Rubber gloves

Welcome Kentarou

Hi Zachary. Thank you for your patience while we worked on your review. There are a few things that we will require before we go ahead with your EIB approval. Hopefully these will be fairly easy fixes for you and we will have your EIB status soon. Working our way down from the helmet, here are the corrections that we are requesting. Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions. Helmet We are going to need you to do some touch ups on the paint on your vocoder. We would like to see a uniform black area with no clumping of paint and no white showing through. A few minutes of light sanding and some new paint will make a huge difference to the overall look of this focal piece of the costume. References Chest Armour The bottom corners of your chest armour are flaring out somewhat and should sit tighter to the abdominal plate. This should be a fairly simple fix with minor reshaping with a hot water bath. References Abdomen We are going to need you to do some touching up of the paint on the Ab buttons. Several of the buttons are painted too small. In addition, the paint appears "lumpy" Several thin coats will look better than very thick and clumpy coats. References Thermal Detonator The control panel on the thermal detonator should be facing backwards. This can be corrected by carefully opening the curve on the bottom of the clips to allow the thermal detonator to roll downward and thereby positioning the control panel so that it faces backwards. CRL L1: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. Lower Leg Armour Your Sniper knee plate is positioned perfectly on the inner side of the shin armour but is sitting below the shin ridge on the outer aspect. CRL L2: Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. References General Fit and strapping There are a few areas that we would like to see adjusted for your Expert Infantry approval. 1. Your belt that is being used to hold up the thigh armour is a bit too obvious with the 2 large loops being present. Some adjustments to the belt system will be needed to have it sit a bit higher and hide underneath the abdominal armour plate. 2. The overall positioning of your chest armour is a bit crooked. Some modifications to the strapping, or care when dressing to ensure everything lining up is recommended. 3. Your shoulder straps are not symmetrical in positioning over the tabs on the back plate. This may simply be caused by the chest piece being crooked, or may require slight adjustment to the position in which they are attached to the chest piece.

@AndreasSjodin We have added your application to the queue. We will get back to you as soon as possible.

Welcome Brett

The uneven edges are pretty common. As Torben mentioned, just trim back the longer edge. Make sure to have your actual undersuit on when measuring pieces for fit cutting. This will ensure everything fits okay.

Hi James. With respect to which build to follow, you can find other AP builds in this thread. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ There is no one specific one to follow but by looking through the build thread lists, you can find other AP builds. Look for builds with APmin the title. My kit is AP and there is a link to my build thread in my signature below.

Congratulations Sam and welcome to the FISD.

Keep trooping and crow props are where most get their boots. https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/jhodpur-tkclassic-short-boots https://keeptrooping.com

Welcome Dimitris. You can post a troop log here; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/13-field-training-exercises/

My kit is from AP and I have been very happy with it. Mark has been great with service and does a great job. There are several garrison members that also have used him and they have had no issues. One thing that you may need to be cautious with is that the kit would be coming from Canada, so beware that there may be some hefty tariffs put on it as it crosses the border. I know that anything we are bringing in from the US now is getting dinged for an additional 25%

Hi Scott. Welcome to FISD. You have found the right place for TK advice. ‘’with respect to the globes, I am not sure that those would work as the white details should only be present on the index finger. Ultimately it would be up to the GML for your local garrison to decide. They definitely would not pass for level 2 approval if you are thinking of applying beyond basic approval. Endor Finders and crow props both make gloves that would be more accurate the Endor finder ones would be appropriate for level 2 approval https://www.endorfinders.com/shop/tfa-stormtrooper-gloves https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/first-order-gloves-choose-black-or-white The undersuit would be okay but you are correct that there should be “shiny shorts” in the areas between the cod/butt plates and thighs. The knees are covered by the gaskets, so this area can be normal. You could always get a shiny pair of shorts and wear them over their undersuit, or look into the soft parts that @Soulart makes. The trooperbay boots are screen accurate and should be good even at higher levels of approval.

Hi Mark. Great talking to you yesterday and glad you found your way here.

Welcome Mark

Ciao, Welcome Antonio

Welcome James. I know that AP is still making and selling kits. I bought one about 2 1/2 years ago and have been very happy with it. As far as the undersuit, most just wear under armor type compression suits. I bought a few from Amazon that also work well. The printing on the waist band hides under the armour, so you can’t see it when kitted up. These ones don’t bleed purple onto the armour as I have found some cheaper ones do. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C72KGQ8G?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1&psc=1 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08LVRPP94/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1 For the E-11, I personally printed my own. If you have access to a 3D printer, this is the most cost effective option. These files are probably the most accurate I have seen https://www.printables.com/model/162480-sterling-smg-mk4-l2a3-and-anh-e-11-conversion Alternatively, you could buy 3D printed kits or fully assembled blasters but the cost will start to climb. For the neck seal, You could make your own if you are handy with a sewing machine. Here is the process I used. For ready made neck seals, @Soulart here on the forums makes great soft parts. Boots would most likely come from keep trooping or crow props. Both do a great job. Hope this helps you get started. Looking forward to seeing your build.

Hello and welcome Dan

Congratulations.

Congratulations Hanson