Doggydoc

Hi John. Amazing job on making the required centurion changes. You are so close but before approving you, I just need a few couple tweaks and 1 more photo. There is still a bit of return edge on the forearms. CRL L3: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. References The right drop box is not aligned with the back edge of the belt. This likely just needs a bit of adjusting to the hook and loop you added. CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. References Could you please provide a photo of the back of the left thigh bottom? I am unable to ensure that the gap at the bottom is filled correctly as the holster is covering it. Just as an aside note, your kidney plate looks a bit crooked and is causing the right side of the back plate to overlap. As this is just a dressing issue, it does not affect your approval. Just something to watch for when getting kitted up.

Welcome Isabella. Happy to have you here.

Good luck on your approval.

Hi Amy. Welcome. Looking forward to seeing your build

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks. If you are considering EIB or centurion level certification, we are here to help. If you enjoyed putting the armour on, wait till you troop with it and see how much joy it brings to everyone else.

Yes

No problem at all John. Congratulations again. Make sure to request your EIB certificate. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40769-request-your-eib-certificate-here/

Hi John, great job on making the requested fixes. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Your helmet is sitting a bit too high. By removing some of the padding on top of your head, it will bring the helmet closer to your shoulders, giving you a better overall appearance and will usually give you improved sight as well. Reference Images Along the same lines, for a better overall look, you could bring your forearms down slightly to make the gaps at the wrists and elbows the same. Alternatively, you could bring the biceps up to increase the gap at the elbow so it matches the wrist. Reference Images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Your belt needs to come up slightly. This may be achieved by using a bit of Velcro between the canvas and the abdomen armour CRL L3: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels Reference Images Also with respect to the belt, Your drop boxes should align with the edge of the ABS belt. You can secure them in place with a drop of E6000. On the back of your belt, the Velcro is showing on the right side of the thermal detonator. For Centurion, you will need to trim back the excess so it doesn't show. We consider this to be a "patch" as per the CRL CRL L3: Canvas belt can not contain patches of any sort. Reference Images CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Reference Images Your shoulder straps will need to have a small piece of elastic added to hold them down in the back. Although not required, removing the large tab in the back will give a better overall look. CRL L3: The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Reference Images For your shoulder position, the left shoulder should sit a bit closer to the shoulder strap. This may just be a dressing issue or you may need to adjust the snap / elastic placement. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. Reference Images You will need to trim all of the return edge from your forearms. CRL L3: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Reference Images Your hand plates will need to be changed to latex or a latex like material for Centurion approval. CRL L3: Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching Reference Images Your Abdomen Armour will need to have the rivets installed as you have already mentioned. Here is a guideline for their placement. CRL L3: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. Reference Images Similarly, as you already mentioned, you will need to add the "Han Snap" on the right side of the abdomen CRL L3: A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. Reference Images Your Ab plate detail could also use a little trimming - hopefully this was applied with E600 and not CA glue. Although the smaller one meets CRL requirements, a slight trim will make it look more screen acurate. CRL L3: Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and shall show a definite straight cut edge around all sides Reference Images Your ab and kidney plates are offset at the top slightly. Your Left side looks okay, your right ab plate is sitting a bit high however. This is likely just a dressing issue but may require some strapping adjustments . CRL L3: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top Reference Images As with the ab armour, the kidney armour will need rivets on the left side as well. CRL L3: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the kidney plate. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. Reference Images For Centurion, the gaps in the back of the lower portion of the thigh need to be filled. This may be done with ABS paste or Sugru CRL L3: Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. Reference Images

Hi Adam. Welcome aboard. Looking forward to following your build

Welcome Eric, Congratulations on the armour. Hopefully we will se your EIB application soon?

Hi Steve. Welcome to the FISD

Hi John, Great job on the costume. You have really put alot of work in and in such a short period of time. You are so close to Expert Infantry, we just need you to make a few fixes. We have had a look over your application and there are a few things that need to be corrected before we can go ahead with the approval. Helmet: The grey paint on the frown does extend onto the gums in several areas: CRL L1: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. References This may be corrected by using non acetone based paint thinners such as varsol or mineral spirits and a toothpick. Just dip the toothpick in the thinner and carefully use it to scratch off the excess paint. The mesh on the hovi tips is not the wide type one as required by the CRL. CRL L2: Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. References Here is a technique that has been used to correct this in the past. Using the cap of a hi-lighter and wider mesh from a kitchen strainer Place the mesh over the hovi tip and press in with the cap of the hi-lighter Paint the inside of the hovi tip and rim white (if necessary) Insert the new screens Thermal Detonator The control panel on your thermal detonator is a bit too high, the control panel and circle should be facing more to the back and not up. CRL L1: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. References To correct this, you can open up the curve a bit on the lower part of your thermal detonator clip so that the detonator essentially rolls down a bit. Blaster The charging handle appears a bit long and not the correct type. This may take a bit of creative work. I suspect 3 D printing a new handle and replacing the old one would be the easiest solution. Reference Images

Welcome Vascod. Make sure to ask lots of questions, we are here to help.

Welcome Jason, Looking forward to seeing your build.

welcome Seth

Congratulations Alfredo, Well done

Will do for sure.

Hi John, I will be reviewing your application and will let you know if I need anything. Thank you for providing all of the required photos.

Hi Steve. Congratulations and welcome to the 501st.

Hi Alfredo, thank you for your application. We will be reviewing it and will let you know if we need anything. For now, please provide a photo of the "Han snap" as mentioned above.

Welcome Marek.

Hi Gary. Welcome

Welcome Maria. Hope to see you wearing that shiny white armour in the near future.

Welcome Dannon

Hi John. Welcome to the FISD. Your story sounds a lot like my own about 2 years ago. Looking forward to seeing your build