Doggydoc

@Melon82 Hey Kris, welcome to the FISD. So glad you are getting to live out this dream like so many of us have. You are going to have so much fun. Can't wait to troop with you

@Larryebaum Hi Larry, these look great. would you be able to post a photo of your thermal detonator while in costume to show the control panel is facing in the correct direction now. I can see you adjusted it on the above photo but just want to make sure.

Hey Paul Welcome back. For the record, I think Paul took half of the photos in my troop log.

Looking good Paolo

There is very limited space for uploading photos on the forum, so we tend to use image hosting services like imgur

Welcome Matt

Welcome Joe. I look forward to following your build and maybe one day trooping with you.

Hi Larry; Thank you for your patience while we looked over your costume. We are going to need some adjustments before we can give you the EIB certification. Let’s start from the top and work our way down. Helmet We will need a bit of clean up on your frown. The grey paint should not extend up onto the gums. This can be achieved by using a tooth pick dipped in mineral spirits or varsol (DO NOT USE ACETONE as it will melt the plastic) and carefully scratching off the over painted areas. CRL Basic: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. References Your paint on your vocoder is a bit too wide and extends onto the bulge that holds the hovi tips. Similar to the frown, we will need a bit of work to remove some of the excess paint. References Abdomen Plate The gap on your right side between your ab Plate and Kidney Plate is within the required size but the left side is a bit too wide. We made the reference image based on sizes of the known components of the armour (ab rivets at 5/16" diameter). This may be corrected by tightening the armour slightly, if there is no room to tighten it, then shims may need to be used. CRL L2: Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide References Thermal Detonator The control panel of the thermal detonator is facing a bit too much in the upward direction. It should be brought down slightly. This can be achieved by unrolling the clips slightly to reposition the placement of the control panel face. CRL Basic: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. References Your thermal detonator screws appear to be too large and should be replaced for a more screen accurate smaller flat or dome type slotted screw head. Finally, your clips appear to be a bit narrower than those used on screen. Replacing the clips with slightly wider ones would correct this. CRL L2: Clips shall be attached with slotted type, flat or dome top style screws, and be black (two per clip). CRL Basic: The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide References please feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

Welcome Andy.

@Shikkakku Looking good. Personally I prefer the 20 mm cover strips as they cover the underlying raised ridge on the armour better. With the coverstrips on the forearms, either way would be okay. The main thing I would go for is to not have an area that sticks up that will be digging into the soft part of your elbow area when trooping. Here is a screen used example of how they did it.

Hi Maria. Yes, trim the thighs from the top. You do not need a return edge but make sure you follow the original shape all the way around the top of the thigh (the cut piece should be the same width all the way around). For the other questions, we will need photos to help you. Uploading photos to the site is not possible as the space is very limited. Most use photo hosting sites like imgur or flickr and copy the direct link into the post.

I think the thinner elastic does look a bit better. If you ordered it, I would change it. With respect to the elastic being over part of the back plate, t he Screen shots show it there.

Hey Paolo @Shikkakku Welcome to the FISD. I better understand the biceps issue seeing the photo. I think we can likely get away with leaving a gap between the 2 halves to make it bigger and covering it with the cover strip. A shim in the gap will help with structure and possibly an inner cover strip as well. One other thing that we can't tell from the photo is the amount of return edge. You don't need any return edge on the biceps. If you have some, then removing it may give a bit more inner area. For the scratches on the chest and shin?, I would try incremental sanding and polishing first, if it doesn't get it, then some ABS paste may work but the colour will be a bit off as it never completely matches the original armour. I was able to sand and polish a spot where I slipped right around the nose of my bucket and it turned out ok. It may not completely remove the area but it should get it to a point where it is barely noticeable.

One thing to consider is that if the armour is approved from 10 years ago, Things may have changed in the CRL and what may have been okay back then may not be okay now. We recently had someone with an SDS kit that he bought years ago apply and even though he was told back then it would be okay, it is not approvable at this current time.

If I may offer some advice, If you cut the ab plate to get the Han snap in the right position, then the length of the edge that meets with the kidney plate will be longer as there is a bit of a taper to the side of the ab plate. This may affect how the kidney and ab plates line up which could have some bearing on your Level 3 approval. CRL L3: "Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. I also had to move the Han snap on my approval. It was not hard to do, provided you have some scrap ABS to make the paste. The colour may not match exactly, but it will not be very noticeable.

Hi @Daveybobs, glad to see you making the requested changes. The thermal detonator screws look good, as do the hand plates and your shoulder bell. All we need now is a full suit up, showing the corrections to the shoulder bridges and the posterior plate positioning. I deleted the posts that you were having trouble getting the links to shew up to clean things up a bit.

Congrats Shane. Welcome to the FISD. If you need one, I can recommend a superglue crisis centre.

Welcome Rick.

Hey Dan. Glad to see you over here on the FISD forums now. Looking forward to following your build.

Congratulations

Welcome to FISD Shane if you go to the link below, that will start your application process and actually contact your local garrison GML who will be doing your approval. https://www.501st.com/join.php Feel free to post pre approval photos here on the FISD site for us to help get everything in order before your approval https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/ Generally the GML will want views from front , back and both sides as well as additional side views with your arms raised. They may also ask for close up views of your blaster if you have one and the helmet from all sides as well. Finally, they will want an action pose and a helmet off photo. Looking forward to seeing your completed kit.

Welcome to the FISD Randall. ‘I look forward to seeing your progress. Look through the build threads on this site. There are lots of great pieces of advice. ‘I will likely be one of the GML’s approving your costume, so feel free to reach out to me any time if you need any help. Looking forward to trooping with you one day.

Welcome Freddy

Congratulations and welcome.

@GordoFreemaz Hi Gordon. I am actually the GML for the Canadian garrison, I must apologize, as we usually are much quicker on getting approvals done. Somehow your response got missed or lost. I will look into it right away and get in touch with you.