CallMeMrTibbles

Thanks! Weirdly hadn't thought to actually measure the printed buttons [emoji2357], but will do this morning. (Assuming I need 12mm buttons) I may have found something that will work with a little modification. Momentary https://thepihut.com/products/colorful-square-tactile-button-switch-assortment-15-pack The sound module uses momentary switches for triggering, and I reckon I can make these ones look the part with paint and maybe some sugru. This latched one would be a little more tricky, but not impossible, and could be a good external power switch. Latched https://thepihut.com/products/on-off-power-button-pushbutton-toggle-switch

[emoji38] exactly!

Looking down is hard for all of us TKs, so we feel your pain. Small children, pets and ground level hazards are the bane of our lives while trooping, so don't necessarily worry that you're doing anything wrong with your build in that respect [emoji106]

Glued some electrical fittings to the electro luminescent plate. They tidy up where I've cut the material away, and give a cool texture and pattern inside the eyepiece. Electro luminescent plate fitted inside the eyepieces. Sound to light box is quite big so need to figure out where to fit it. Material removed from front lens; speaker will be fitted behind. Will fit black cloth with something behind to strengthen it.

First two switches fitted. Removed the existing screws, drilled out to take switch body. Shimmed the switch so that the button is 'only just' protruding (but enough to press with gloves on). Filed a slot into the top of the button to mimic screws and roughed up. Not sure whether to paint or leave as is. Sound module can have up to eight momentary switches. The next three will be easy to place (under the eyepieces), but if I want any more I'm going to have to get inventive!

Thanks Glen I'm thinking same, that's theres maybe too much padding in the helmet, meaning it has to be tilted forward more for visibility. As an example my helmet has some padding near my forehead, but no padding at all at the top. The top of my head rests against the plastic of the helmet.

A pic of the inside of the helmet, showing any padding, might be helpful

How tall are you? Can someone take a pic of you from the back while you're fully kitted up? Can you take a pic of the inside of the chest and ab while they're linked togther. How are the chest and ab connected? Depending on how the ab and chest are connected to each other it could be the ab pushing the chest up. Try disconnecting the chest from the ab (if possible) and kitting up again (although from your pics maybe this is happening without the ab attached!?) Also, in your pics, the pic where the chest is higher the back section looks to have dropped down. Difficult to ascertain the cause without the full armour being worn.

Awesome, and the only legitimate use for a rebel helmet!!! [emoji38] Hope you both had a great night

Thanks mate. See how it all works out. Might be some on the fly changes! [emoji1]

Hej! Welcome to 501st and FISD. It's really good that you're asking these questions before buying anything, as hopefully we can offer advice and guidance to get you where you want to be. Not a great deal to add given what's already been said, but having said that.... If you haven't already you should look into joining your local 501st garrison. As well as us here at FISD you will find others there who can offer help, and you may have people local that can help with your build. Don't by too worried about building it yourself. I know exactly how daunting it is when you get started, but as long as you take it slow, check all of your measurements at least twice, and ask anytime you're not sure you'll be fine. The sense of achievement when you pass clearance really is something else. The route you're suggesting may sound tempting, but if your goal is for accurate armour you could find it ends up being more work in the long run. Armour from different sources can vary in shade which can create problems (and look terrible). Just something to consider. Whatever route you take, post lots of questions and pictures, and I'm looking forward to seeing your build thread and pics from your first troop. Rich

Hi! Welcome to 501st and FISd. It's great to have you here. Great choice on the ESB trooper (not that I'm biased [emoji1]). Have you ordered an assembled commission from RS or are you building it yourself? Even you've ordered a commission don't be worried if you need to make some adjustments when it arrives; that's very normal and there will be plenty of help and advice here and in your local garrison to get you through to clearance. Post lots of questions and pictures, and I'm looking forward to seeing your build thread and pics from your first troop [emoji106] Rich

Hi Brian, Welcome to 501st and FISD. Not a great deal to add after all the other replies, other than to add it's a great motivator having an assembled helmet and blaster on display keeping you going with the build and the weight loss; I say this from experience! Good luck with everything, post lots of questions and pictures, and looking forward to seeing your build thread and pics from your first troop. Rich

Hi Gerald, Welcome to the 501st and FISD. It's really good to have you here. Finding the right armour to fit you is important, and it's great that you're asking about this before buying anything. I'm over in the UK, and have no direct experience with the armour makers you're looking at, so I hope someone else can chime in. Whichever armour make you go with (even if you commission fully assembled armour) you can expect to do some degree of tweaking; I don't think I know anyone that's passed through this forum that hasn't had to do that. Don't worry about that though. There's a lot of help and advice to be had here and with your local garrison, and the sense of achievement when you're armour is cleared is amazing. Good luck with it all, and please post questions and pictures anytime you need help. Rich

Parts ordered: For the audio... https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-audio-fx-mini-sound-board-wav-ogg-trigger https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-pro-trinket-liion-lipoly-backpack-add-on https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/lipo-battery-pack https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-mono-2-5w-class-d-audio-amplifier-pam8302 https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/mini-speaker-4-3w Already have some mini momentary buttons that I 'think' will work OK. Will attempt to modify to look the part. For the eye pieces... (20mm) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PMMA-Plano-convex-Acrylic-condenser-Lens-for-Zoom-LED-Flashlight-Bike-head-lamp-/184929977095?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 (Light blue with sound to light so they light up when I trigger sounds) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mm-x-120mm-EL-Tape-Electroluminescent-Glow-Foil-in-8-Colours-4-00-/233203448795?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Will do. At the moment just thinking SW themes, but will have a look for any macro specific sound effects too.

More tabs glued in, and it's already a pretty good friction fit

Found some foam blocks and wooden battens exactly the right size for internal support. Much stronger now.

So, here's the starting pics of my macros, after removing the front panel and expanding foam that was used to fill the cavity. The walls of the main body are pretty thin and flexible, and the expanding foam hadn't properly filled the cavity leaving large gaps. This meant the walls were free to flex and has left some hairline cracks visible from the outside. I don't know the paint used so matching would be difficult, and they're weathered and the cracks are pretty small, so I'm hoping I can get away with not having to repaint. I'm going to need to add some kind of strengthening inside, and I'm thinking an internal wooden brace between top and bottom should be sufficient while still allowing space for the electronics. I'll also add more tabs of ABS to make sure the front panel sits properly. I'll be hollowing out the eyepieces with my dremel ready for the lenses and electro luminescent panel. The switch for that will be internal, so I don't need to worry about where to put an external switch. Will wait for the audio board to arrive before thinking about button and speaker fitment. Play that part by ear once everything has arrived. The plan for the sound module is to play various SW theme music, depending on the situation.

Been seeing a few things on FB about this. Hope it gets some resolution. Good luck mate [emoji106]

Paul, yes, he is absolutely a genius. I've already come up with an idea that should be fun. I wanted to install small screens behind the eye pieces showing videos of the macrobinocular footage on hoth and tattoine, but then realised so many issues with that, so will be fitting small plastic lenses and electro luminescent plate (with maybe a print of the hoth scene on acetate). And then I've bought a sound board which will drive a speaker hidden behind the front lens cavity. Also need to do a lot of strengthening, as the 3d printed body already has several cracks. I'll make the front part of the body removable (using magnets maybe), for charging / replacing batteries.

I never do things by halves [emoji1] Other option I guess is to carefully remove the printed buttons and glue those on top of something else that stays hidden [emoji848]

Not necessarily. Induction events need the correct person there but also need to be long enough. You can find shorter troops with the right person for branding. Not worried about having a spare bell, as can just tape over the logo for private events. Bigger issue is having to remove the branding when applying for advanced levels.

I've recently acquired a pair of used sandie style macrobinoculars. They needed a small repair on arrival, and now that they're open I'm very tempted to put some electronics in there. Does anyone know where to source working versions of the 3 square buttons under the eyepieces?

The event of first tagging is given a lot of importance, and we have to be wearing the tag in order to troop, but we can remove for approval of new costumes. Its more that it's a pain to remove as you can't reapply the same sticker (it's ruined as it's in several parts). Only certain UKG members carry replacements, so you may miss out on a few troops waiting for an event with the right person present.