TKSpartan

Hi Dylan, this is an easy way to post all your photos directly into your posts. It'll make easy for all members to see yous pics and bring better tips,suggestions and recomendations. cheers

I found this Pic on internet, may be can guide you. cheers

Hi Austin, Welcome to FISD. As per the CRL, E-11 Blaster Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bapty-style, Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions. The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. For basic and level 2, a Hasbro modified would work, but if you are thinking about higher levels I would recommend to buy a more accurate Blaster. Mine is a Praetorian Blasters E11, But there's some more options like Doopy Doos Resin Kit, and some. Hope this can help. Cheers

Hi Matthew, looking good. here's a reference photo for TD to guide you. Cheers,

Hi Yu, do you mean to see some building thread? cheers

Could you take a closer photo of the ab buttons ? so we can see the detail. Here is a reference photo.

Hi Dylan, Welcome to FISD ! Glad to have another future trooper on the way. !! Here you will find a lot of info and people to help. in the link below you can review the many building threads to guide you, and make all the quiestions you need to ensure a great build. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Cheers

cool !! Following now

I'm not as expert as many people here but in my experience what I have done was just Hot water and rubbing hard with a cloth. It worked for me more than any chemical. regards

Great job Robyn, almost there.

Hi Justin, I had exactly the same issue. What I did, may be it can help you, I used some wood pieces to extend the pressure over the cover strips, and qhere the wood and clamps did no reach especially de center, I used some magnets. I have take some pictures so you can figure out what I'am talking about. Remember to give the E6000 enough time to get dry. Cheers

There's no way back trooper !!! Go ahead and finish this fight !!! We'll waiting for you at the ranks.

Sniper Knee alginment looks just right and about the velcro, I found Heavy duty velcro at amazon. cheers

Hi Jayke, great advances in your build. I would like to share some useful pics that I think may help you. Cheers

You have your Imperial K9 already !!

Good luck with your build trooper.

Welcome Liz, You're going in an amazing path with tour build. Congrats !!!

Hi Dave, It looks like you made it as the picture "B" . If so, it's correct for Centurion. Cheers

Look great Trooper !!

Go ahead Trooper!!

I'm so sorry mate, It's a shame you havr this kind of restrictions.

Brian, looking at your thigh ammo belt, you may want to color the rivets white as per the CRL states: Level two certification (if applicable): Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Keep on doing a great job.

Hi Jonathan, great work with your sniper knee alignment. I went a little beyong with the trimming. here's a reference photo cheers

Hi, Brian, You are going in the right way to Centurion. Great job Trooper !!

Hi, some recomendtions I have seen is to use Bleach, Apply to the silicone . Allow the bleach to sit for 15-20 minutes. This will cause a whitening of the yellowed silicone and will kill any mold or mildew that may have formed. scrub with a plastic scrub brush and rinse with cold water. Hope this can help.