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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by 11b30b4

  1. Glad to see another build. Keep up with it and work on it when you can even if all you do is sand. I added you to the roster.
  2. looking nice, keep it up. Modifying that BS helmet is a real pain but it does look good once you get finished.
  3. DarthBiscuit, your build is coming along nicely. Keep at it.
  4. Cool a new kit for the anthology TK. I have a HSP Generafett bucket, and i have seen Imperial Valour's build with his bucket. I look forward to you build. I added you to the roster. BTW, there is a thread on who sales waht for the ROTK but just so you know, Dark Side Closet on FaceBook makes the undersuit top and knee gaskets. Message them and they will give you price. I have the Jimmiroquai undersuit but I really like what DSC is doing and all his stuff it here in the USA and hand made.
  5. I agree with the CRL issues needing to be addressed. I did not paint the black outline on the ear bars and I have a feeling someone may have been confused since the small oval on the ear bar is suppose to be black but the rest is gray. If I end up having access to that thread I will bring this up as well as the velcro issue now that we know it was shock cord (bungee cord) used to close the back side of the appendages. At some point i will get a seperate thread asking for feedback from yall to address some of the CRL issues. Justin, keep up the good work.
  6. This kit is coming along nicely. I really like the incinerator. I added you to the roster. Keep up the good work.
  7. Weeeee woulddddd likeeeee to seeeeee someeeeee picturessssss. Anyway, keep at it and you will get there.
  8. Th3DarKn1ght, keep up the good work. Anytime its seems overwhelming, just pick one part to work on till its done then move on to the next thing. I had a devil of a time working on my kit and about 1/2 way through, I rushed the end so I could get approved and included in a racing shirt run. Whatever work you can do, is fine as long as you keep working. I have seen a lot of people start kits then put them aside for whatever reason and never pick them back up. I have added you to the roster.
  9. Wook1138 and Tarok, many people have the same thing and I believe you all are correct. Daetrin, cool, thank you. Morgul702 and ukswrath, in reference to the thigh strapping, I am unaware of anything known for under the armor. What we can see is the two (presumably 1” black nylon) straps that come down on the side of each leg. Speculating, it looks like they have a black plastic side release buckle on them that is covered with black elastic. I infer this because this is a common practice to cover the buckles with elastic in the tactical webbing community on slings. Here is an example of a sling with the elastic covering a buckle and a hook. The side release buckle being mounted here would ensure easy donning of the armor as well as provide a method to adjust the height of the thigh armor. I built my ROTK strapping with this method in mind. As for a belt, who knows? I built my kit with a belt but ultimately mounted the top of the thigh straps inside the abdomen. Since this has already gone beyond the original topic and deep dived into how the ROTK is constructed and after some time working on my Shoretrooper and reviewing Mr. Pauls FB page (total grunt) I see a lot of information that is evidence with the Shoretrooper that we can assume but not prove for the ROTK. The Deathtrooper, Shoretrooper, Tanker, and ROTK have a lot of similarities and one would expect that most of the processes and manufacture of these costumes are the same. So, here is some food for thought. We know that the ROTK uses the same shoulder bell metal supports as the Shoretrooper. Here is your evidence, and yes, I still maintain that the elastic is black. Notice the “D” shape under the elastic. From Mr. Paul’s FB page here is what the metal supports look like. Here they are mounted to the chest plate of a Mr. Paul built Shoretrooper. Next here is another Mr. Paul built Shoretooper chest plate with the shoulder strap and metal supports. And here is a pic from Mr. Paul’s Shoretrooper where I have “roughly” outlined the metal support. Lastly, here is a Deathtrooper (from celebration I believe) and we can also see the snap support inside the shoulder bell. Next, there was a discussion back in 2018 in the CRL thread about (as stated) the two tabs on the bottom of the kidney pad. This was one response with arrows of what the responder though the op was talking about. However, knowing now what I do I think the op was referring to the two tabs on the bottom of the back plate that you can see just above the thermal detonator. Although these appear to be shorter in length, I believe what we are seeing is very similar to what Mr. Paul did with his back plate for the Shoretrooper. In this pic you can see how the Shoretrooper back plate attaches to the back hard belt. I believe the TK back plate does something similar; however, it does not actually attach to the belt as we can see in the pic from the CRL thread, it looks like the tabs end just before the attachment hole. On the topic of soft goods, here is a pic of a confirmed Shoretrooper undersuit. Notice the specific mesh in the arm pit, the full-length zipper down the front, Velcro (presumably to assist in supporting the abdominal plate) the distinctive ribbing on the sleeves and the thumbhole at the end of the sleeve. The Shoretrooper also has a separate neckseal/ bib that hides the zipper and has distinctive horizontal ribbing. I am not saying that the ROTK uses this same undersuit but we can assume that many of the features were most likely incorporated in the ROTK undersuit. Lastly, we have seen this pic of what looks like a screen used ROTK abdominal plate with a suspension system. From this image we can assume that the ROTK used this suspension system as well as the corset zip closure that is velcroed in the back. What is not as evident is if the ROTK abdominal plate uses the connection tabs along the bottom edge like the Shoretrooper. It is hard to tell from this pic since there is a white belt with Velcro around the bottom of the abdominal plate. Also note the black strap protruding from the bottom and along the side of the abdomen plate. This is most likely the attachment strap for the thigh armor. Also, there is some sort of secondary suspension system (similar to a back belt for Warehouse workers that sits under the primary suspension system. Perhaps this provide some padding but otherwise I see no need for it. So here some pics of Mr. Pauls suspension system from his Shoretrooper and we can assume that the ROTK uses a very similar system. Ok so that is all I have for yall at this time. Let me know what you think.
  10. Welcome Kyle. I guess I will be very up to date with your build , anyway glad to see you on FISD and yes this should be moved to the build thread so I guess one of the mods will move it at some point. FYI Dark Side Closet (On FB) (The undershirt is $165, and the knee gaskets are $50 plus $10 for U.S. shipping) Endor Finders ROTK Gloves $55.00 Reach out to Praetorian Blasters on FB for a price and turnaround for a Rogue One Rubber E-11. Or if you are lucky you may find a used Hyperfirm HFX RO E-11 for sale here. Expect to pay about 200 for a rubber one.
  11. Kal, you have been added. Welcome to FISD
  12. Also, I am not a fan of the craft paints. Whatever you use make sure all the primer, paint and clear are of the same type (Acrylic, Lacquer, enamel) and same brand. Common issues with clear coat are orange peel which is often caused by mixing brands or spraying too thick. If yo are using spray paint I would suggest just using gloss white and skipping the clear coat. As for the grey, blue, and black parts, either airbrush then clear coat or use same type paint as the white (Acrylic, Lacquer, enamel) in model paints. I am a big fan of Tamiya brand. Overall, the color stuff is best if airbrushed and yo can pick up an airbrush kit for fairly cheap these days. I use a harbor freight airbrush compressor ($89.00) and a Testor Aztek A4809 metal airbrush kit (not sure what they cost now but I got mine for about 100.00) comes with numerous heads for different patterns and thickness of paints.
  13. Only suggestion at this time is to take your time. Don't rush anything especially the paint. several thin coats over time will save you all the headaches you had with the bucket. I try to spray one light coat everywhere, wait 10 minutes then another light coat, wait 10 minutes then a final coat to ensure everything is covered. I do this with primer, paint and clear coat.
  14. Thanks guys, I appreciate that help. Stay safe.
  15. Roukie 1, added you to the roster. Good luck on approval.
  16. If I have done something wrong please let me know but I had someone contact me about my shoulder straps and wanted to know where to go on the forum to place an order and when I looked at the thread it says its been archived? Thread: Please let me know what the issue is.
  17. Go to Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper build on facebook. He has identified all the correct methods of strapping for all the Rogue One Imperial kits. You will need to do a bit of deep diving on his page but everything you ever wanted to know about these kits is there is you look hard enough and its all confirmed as what they did for the films. https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/
  18. DarthBiscut, I have not. I sold my 850 AW kit to a friend and it still needs to be built. I planned on doing the strapping tutorial with his kit once its done but the Covid thing has thrown a wrench into this. It will be some time before I have any updates for this thread.
  19. DarthBiscuit, I did reinforce some areas with PC-7 (2-part epoxy paste) and I coated the entire inside of all armor with white liquid Flex Seal; however, I do not recommend apply the flex seal unless you are 100% sure where you want to place Velcro and mask those areas off. 3M backed Velcro will not stick to the Flex Seal and removal of cured Flex Seal is next to impossible. I chose to coat the inside of the armor with Flex Seal to minimize the abrasion of the fiberglass on the under suit but I did not realize that if I needed to remove a spot of Flex Seal to add some Velcro, the Flex Seal bonds to the fiberglass and even sanding it off will not fully remove it.
  20. Morgul702, I added you. Good luck and let us know when you get approved.
  21. Sn4k3, nope not at this time that I am aware of.
  22. Upgrades because… Since I am no longer working on a Sandtrooper, its just easier for me to keep all of my TK content on FISD. As previously mentioned, I posted this on MEPD but I am transferring it here for anyone who finds it useful. NOTE: this build thread outlines me using ½” thick Sentra as the base material; however, the Sentra snapped at the stock after I finished the build. In March 2019, I rebuilt the gun (a third time) where I used a planed down white pine board as the base material. Everything else is the same as you will see in this build. So, I recommend you use white pine, it weights less than the plywood and is more rigid than Sentra. Finding a ½” thick board is difficult. More than likely you will find ¾” boards at any Home Depot and you will need to plane them down to ½”. In my previous build I used plywood as the base material, and it is a bit heavy after trooping with it for any period of time. I also used Spool86's cast kit (heavily modified) for a lot of the parts. I like Spool86’s parts but they are not as accurate as I would like. Also, cast parts weigh more than 3D printed parts and this added to the overall weight. So, I wanted a more accurate and lighter weight T-21. To this end, I have modeled a lot of the parts and 3D printed them. I will make these parts available for free download from my Thingiverse page here: https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs So, a few notes before we begin. The overall dimensions are very close to Pandatrooper’s diagram. I will be reusing the already made stock from my original RO T-21 and some of the other parts. I hope to re-use the barrel, but I will need to determine if it will mate with the new printed parts. Yoshix created a thread MEPD to discuss the RO T-21 differences but I had not seen it until now since most of my previous stuff was on FISD. A good catch was the space on the barrel before the rubber tubing. I did not build my previous T-21 with this gap in mind but I will endeavor to include it for this build. Another thing that has come up has been the discussion about the aerial gunner sight. Specifically, if it is an aerial gunner’s sight or as one of my friends has suggested that it is actually a coil cable (think phone cable) as a nod to the ANH T-21 and it is just sticking up oddly. What I am talking about is the red circles in these pics: I believe they are an aerial gunner sight and will be building my RO T-21 with this in mind. Although there are five different variants of the Lewis gun and there are a ton of different manufacturers of each variant I will be primarily using the MK1 variant. There are not a lot of pictures of the RO T-21 and the ones that I have found are lacking in detail. I have collected a large number of detail pictures of actual Lewis guns from across the internet to develop the 3D models. Although I could make a completely accurate model, there are a few areas I will need to divert from to make this something more buildable. One specific thing I have omitted is the underside of the cooling vent area mid-section of the gun. Seen here (yellow outline) is what was omitted for anyone wanting to go overboard in their build. There are a few other very minor details that I did not include in the 3D models but for the most part, they should be correct. I have embedded many of the roll marks seen on various pictures I have found. Most notably will be roll marks on the feed tray. For the base material of this build I will be using ½” (12.7mm) thick Sentra. I purchased a 4’x’8 sheet of Veranda HP brand PVC board from Home Depot for $69.00. Obviously, you will not need a whole sheet of this stuff but its hard to find in smaller quantities. Sentra is PVC board and Veranda is just a different brand. Keep in mind that I am working within the limitations of Tinkercad as I am not a CAD engineer. That being said, here are the models I have built so far. This is the main feed tray cover, mid-section cooling vents and vent housing. This is the center feed tray, ejector, feed operating arm, rear sight mount, forward feed tray, and assembly pegs. Receiver left side. Receiver right side. Rear receiver and stock mounting plate. I have already started printing these parts and here are some of the raw prints before finishing. I have a Prusa I3 Mk3 and I use MatterHackers MH Build series 1.75mm ABS filament. Some tips on printing: Any of the parts with horizontal holes or overhangs should be supported. I printed everything in ABS and to prevent any elephant foot (warping near the build plate) I printed everything with a brim. As for detail I used 0.07mm ultradetail with a fill of 15% for anything that had any detail. I printed the receiver rear and stock mounting plate at 0.10 detail with all the same settings for fill, brim, and support. Update 12/2/19 I have added a few additional 3D models to my Thingiverse for this build. First, I redesigned the rear sight mount. I added the rear sight with roll marks and adjustment knob and combined them with the receiver rear and stock mount plate I modified my T-21 transition to fit a Shop Vac Extension Wand (read further to understand why) and included the front radiator and flash hider, a backing for the radiator, the front end cap ring, and two barrel ends for the sides of the receiver. Lastly, I finished the models off with the two end caps for the oil brush that are mounted in the stock, the front sight, the trigger, and the gas key adjustment lever. Once I finished the models, I printed them, and they came out great. I should note that each file is printed in 0.07 Ultradetail which takes about 30 hours. After printing, everything got sanded and cleaned. After cleaning, everything got primer and then paint. Next, using Pandatrooper’s pattern and making some minor alterations, I cut the rifle out of Sentra. Once I had the shape, I started to dry fit parts and figure out where things would sit. Initially I was using a larger PVC pipe for the sides of the receiver and in these pictures, the lines you see where for the larger pipe. Here I was working out the trigger and test fitting the trigger guard. I reused the trigger from my previous T-21 but I have made a 3D model for anyone wanting to print one. Around this time, I realized the pipe I was using was a bit larger than I wanted so I found some ¾” SDR 21 PVC pipe which is irrigation thin wall PVC. I used this pipe along with a section of ½” Schedule 40 PVC pipe to make the side barrels on the receiver. I cut each pipe lengthwise in half then sanded them. Next, I drilled the ejection port and finished it with the dremmel. Next, I painted the ¾” pipes black and the ½” pipe silver. I glued the ½” pipe inside the ¾” pipe and then test fit them on the gun. Notice the remainder of the glue line under the new pipe, from the larger pipe I removed. This size pipe better aligns with the barrel part of the radiator. Next, I needed to replace the top aerial gun sight that is seen on the Rogue One version of the T-21. On my previous build I used an iron pipe I-bolt. Since reducing weight was one of my primary goals, I needed to find a new solution. I eventually decided to make the sight out of aluminum. I took some aluminum stock and worked it on my metal lathe. Next, I threaded the parts then cleaned the parts for painting. I also needed to remake the aluminum legs that protrude from the stock mounting plate and into the stock. Once everything was cleaned, I painted all the parts with a black bake on metal paint I use for gunsmithing. While the parts were baking, I took a hard look at my previous T-21 to determine what were the heavy parts. As I stated previously, the base of the T-21 was plywood and the switch to Sentra seamed to reduce the weight buy more than half. All the resin parts on the previous T-21 were heavy as well and switching them with 3D parts further reduced the weight. Switching from the Iron sight to an aluminum one reduced the weight; however, I soon realized that one of the heaviest parts on the previous T-21 was at the extreme front end of the gun, the 2.5” electrical conduit I used for the tapered bore of the barrel shroud was very heavy. I originally used this part because the outside diameter was 2.75”. I looked for a good replacement, but I had very little luck. I could special order a pipe with the outside diameter of 2.75” but most of the options were either too expensive, the wrong material like acrylic, had too thick a wall, or weighed too much. I was forced to consider a pipe with an outside diameter of 2.5” and again I was hard pressed to find a light weight option. Eventually, I found a shop vac extension wand a Lowes that had an outside diameter of 2.5” at one end and tapered to 2.25” at the other end of its 20” length. I only needed about 7” in length and if I measured the seven inches from the larger end the outside diameter of the smaller end would be just shy of 2.5”. The wand was fairly thin walled (about 1/8”) and very light. So about $8.00 this should work. I reworked the T-21 transition 3D model and included it on my Thingiverse page. So with all the parts gathered I continued to assemble the T-21. Next, I looked over the reference pictures and discovered that there are only two rings visible on the large part of the barrel shroud. One about 2” from the rear of the shroud and one with the front sight attached to it. There is also only one on the smaller part of the shroud at the extreme front of the barrel. So since I was reusing the barrel from my previous build I needed to remove some of the rings, fill some holes, re-score the exposed parts of the shroud and re-apply the rubber tubing. I used ¼” windshield washer tube for this. I added 4 mounting screw holes near the rear of the shroud that will be covered by the rear most ring and will make the barrel removable for easy transport. I still need to apply the feed tray parts and grips and finish painting then do a black/ brown wash over the whole thing to weather it but it is coming along nicely and the weight is amazingly very very light. I wish I had though to weigh the previous gun for a comparison, but I would say this thing will end up being 1/4 -1/3 the weight of the previous version. Update 12/5/2019 I assembled the radiator, flash hider, back plate, and end cap ring on the tapered part of the barrel shroud. Next, I installed the tapered barrel shroud to the transition then I dry-brushed silver on all the parts and attached the Feed operating arm, ejector, and the barrel ends on the sides of the receiver. I used E6000 to adhere the grip scales then masked off the radiator and bolt and applied a weathering wash comprised of black acrylic and light brown. Once this dried, I applied a flat clear coat over the whole rifle. I think the dry brush will look more natural in these pics. I did the black wash over the dry brush and it mutes the silver. I am inclined to agree with you about using bondo between the transition and the two parts of the shroud. The line between the transition should not be as defined; how that change will need to wait a bit before I can address it. For anyone interested the total estimated weight of the T-21 is 4.5 pounds. Back on topic, the stock is white pine, as are the grips. I made the stock for the previous version of the ROT-21 and re-purposed it here. The stock consists of two halves roughly ¾” thick and 8” x 18” once I have the outside rough shape, I hollowed out the interior with a router then glued the two halves together. The stain is Minwax Ebony with a satin clear coat on top. As for the strap, from the best images I could find I determined the width of the sling webbing to be 1.25” and the webbing to be black nylon webbing (most likely Mil Spec: MIL-W-4088 Type 10, Class 1A). At one time I made tactical gear and I am familiar with webbings and types. Some things to note from my research: In this screen grab you can see where and how the forward end of the sling is attached (Yellow Circle) and it looks to be an AK-47 sling mount screwed to the top of the barrel shroud just behind the front sight. Note the round (looks to be an areal gunner sight) sight just forward of the feed tray and is in the dead space of the barrel shroud between the two barrel shroud rings (Red Circle). Also note the rubber wrapped tubbing on the barrel shroud goes past and covers the middle barrel shroud ring (between the Red Circle and Yellow Circle). Lastly, note the rear sling mount appears to be on the side of the stock (Light Green Circle) and is most likely in the spot as the bras ID disk seen on some Lewis Guns. An assumption can be made that they are using an Uncle Mikes style sling mount and quick detach since this has been used on several weapons from Rogue One. I hope this build helps others out in making RO T-21s and feel free to ask question and/or point out anything I missed. Update March 2 2019 So Sentra was not the best idea I have ever had. The T-21 snapped where the stock meets the receiver when I snagged it going through a door. Since plywood was too heavy and the Sentra was too weak, I have rebuilt the rifle again using all the previous parts but this time I used a 3/4" white pine board that I planed down to 1/2" thick and seems to be holding up great and the weight is fine. Thanks for the interest.
  23. I originally posted this on MEPD back in October 2019 but have since decided to not make a Sandtrooper. Regardless, the pack build is here for anyone who finds it useful. With this build, I am endeavoring to make a RO Sandtrooper pack as close to screen acruate as possible. I really like Yoshix’s build and have decided to make the pack from scratch. I will be 3D printing most of the parts and using PVC foam boards for the boxes. I have already started printing some of the parts and one of the parts did not printed well because I did not print it with enough detail. The part in question is the square greeble (yellow circle) in this picture. After a closer examination, I think this part is actually a North Bridge South Bridge Aluminum Heat Sink like this: And I think the two greebles circled in red are also heat sinks. As for the remainder of the parts, I have not spent a lot of time tracking them down. Like I said, I will be 3D printing most of them and using the few reference pics to make them to scale as close as I can. I usually share all my 3D models on thingiverse for free; however, for this build I will most likely not share the files. I do not want to step on CrookKnight’s hard work and business. Besides, I am sure his models are better than mine since I am doing everything in tinkercad and not a “real” cad program. Anyway, more to come in the next few weeks and months. OK, over the past few weeks I have been finalizing all my 3D models and scale drawings. As I said before, I will not be sharing the models so please do not ask. I will, however, share my scale drawing. Keep in mind its not 100% verified yet but so far everything is lining up well. So how did I come up with all the data to develop 3D models and a scale drawing. I had 2 sources. First there is the picture on p.133 in the Rogue One Ultimate Visual Guide By Pablo Hidalgo. Honestly, there are not a lot of sources out there that I was able to locate. Second, there is Yoshix’s build. Yosh used two items in his build that allowed me to develop some basic scaling. First, he used CDs for the plunger baffles which are 120mm in diameter. Further, Yosh used a Ryobi #20 FSC wood biscuits jar in his build. Based on the known sizes of these two items I was able to able to extrapolate most of the pack’s details. Additionally, I discovered the North Bridge South Bridge Aluminum Heat Sink and used it as a third reference. In addition to these references, I also wanted to streamline the build and avoid 3D printing some fo the structural stuff if I could. For the Antennas longest thick section I used a piece of 2” Sch. 40 PVC pipe. For the shaft of the antenna top I used a 1” thin wall PVC pipe and the antenna top is a white plastic coat hanger that was roughly 10mm in diameter. I scaled all my 3D models for these dimensions and printed out all the antenna parts first. Around this time, I located a piece of acrylic pipe I had laying around. This pipe was about 81mm in diameter and thin walled. It was perfect for the two-white tube greebles. I know on other versions of the Sandtrooper packs people have used hand wipe containers for similar greebles, but I wanted something a bit more rigid. I scaled the end caps to fit this pipe and printed them as well. Next, I sanded all the parts and pipes with 150 grit then 220 grit sand paper. I used super (CA glue to assemble most of this stuff and filled any gaps with superglue and baking soda then sanded again. Once it was all glued and sanded and test fit, I applied a layer of primer. The 3D printing process is quite time consuming. For example, all 4 of the end caps for the white tube greebles, it took 1 day 8 hours and 34 minutes. I am printing everything at 0.10 detail on my Prusa I3Mk3. I could print the parts in a shorter time frame, but the detail would suffer and add more post printing sanding. I have started sanding the box detail and here is a picture of the 3D model of the greeble that I replaced with the heat sink. As you can see, even with that level of detail the print did not turn out very well. I am glad I discovered the heat sinks. I ordered a pack of 5 of them from Amazon for $9.59. You should also be able to see that the heat sinks have two mounting points on them. I cut these off and sanded the sides flush. Here is a test fit of them on one of the boxes So, I have a good bit of printing and sanding to go, and I want to have all the parts done before I cut out the large boxes to hose everything. I will attempt to upload the pdf of the scale drawing at the end of this post. Update 10/17/2019 So sanding and sanding and more sanding. I printed the two smaller heat sinks and risers, the shake weight thing and the grenade mo Here are the heat sinks mounted and sanded. Since all the source pictures are of such low quality its hard to actually determine exactly how many fins these heat sinks have. Five is what I have seen in others builds so that is what I went with. I was unable to find an exact match of an actual heat sink so either the five fins is incorrect, or I was unable to locate the actual greeble, or they manufactured these from scratch for the screen used prop. I do not believe they would manufacture them since almost everything used in Rogue One was modified existing stuff but who really knows? Here are some greebles primed. The tall stand is the mount for the shake weight thing. This should raise it to sit flush with the white tube thing. I love how ambiguous I am being with describing the various parts of the backpack, not. Here is the shake weight assembled and primed. Test fit of the four box greebles. I am thinking I will figure out how tall they need to be and build mounts for them out of Sentra. Next, I will paint them separately then assemble them. Another pic of parts drying. The plunger top and bottom have been sanded and the bottom jar has been test fitted. For my jar I am not using the Ryobi jar that Yoshix used, rather a different jar that was a bit tall so I cut off the bottom and am 3D printing a new bottom that will be applied to it. The black sharpie lines on the domes are used as references for sanding to make sure I sand the entire part. Start on one sides of the line and work my way around till I get to the line again. Like I said before I start with 150 grit then do it again with 220. Update, 10-18-2019 I am hoping to make some serious progress this weekend. Last night I started some painting and worked on a few parts. First, I painted the two white tube things (I believe one is called a miniature vaporator condensation bulb). These will be weathered as well as everything else once they are all test fitted in the field pack. Next, I painted the antenna assembly black. Next, I glued the bottom of the bottle and mounted the bottle in the plunger dome. Next, I painted the three white greebles and primed the two heat sinks. Next, I sanded and assembled the two grenades. Lastly, the final print (the baffle section of the plunger) is printing and should be done today. Update 10/21/19 After printing the last parts of the plunger, I assembled the parts, sanded them, and primed them Next, I began to assemble the main boxes. For the boxes I used ½” thick Sentra (Veranda brand) to make them. At $75.00 per 4’ x 8’ sheet, it is considerably more expensive than plywood or MDF but the weight saved and ease of workability is well worth it. Mandalorian Mecs use Sentra to make our armor unlike the vacuum formed armor for TKs, TDs, etc… Sentra comes in a variety of thicknesses and is a thermoplastic so you can heat it and shape it. Anyway, ½” is what we used to make our Sandcrawler here in GA. So I figured it would do nicely for the field pack. First, I cut all the parts and test fit them. Next, using a routing table and a ½” straight bit I made the two long cuts on the sides of the top box. Next, using a 3/8” roundover bit, rounded the outer edges of the boxes. Next, using some 3mm Sentra I made the rectangle greebles and glued them in place. Next, using the ½” sentra, I made mounts for the various parts to raise them to the proper height. After the mounts were done, I assembled the boxes and test fit all the other parts inside the boxes. Next, I primed the interior greebles and then painted them flat black. https://i.imgur.com/FH9dGB0.jpg[/img] Next, I assembled the plunger and painted it flat black. I also painted most of the other greebles flat black. Next, I mixed some white, black, and blue airbrush paints to get a color that I felt was close to the screen used blue/grey for the jar, shake weight, and miniature vaporator condensation bulb and painted them. I did make an effort to fill and sand most cracks and separation lines, but I opted to leave some parts somewhat raw with noticeable defects. This will make the weathering easier and more realistic as these areas will fill with darker colors when I do my black wash. I ran out of primer over the weekend so I will finish priming and painting the boxes this week and assemble all the parts. Once that is completed, I will start on the frame. I still need to figure out what angle the top box sits in relation to the bottom box and figure out how to strap everything. Update 10/23/2019 I have mounted most of the parts. I used drywall screws for this, and everything is looking great. I still need to mount the antenna and plunger, but I am holding off till I figure out exactly what angle the top box should sit and figure out how to attack the frame. Update 10/24/2019 I have started working on how to achieve the proper angle tilt of the top box and how to attach shoulder straps. I have considered the frame idea and decided to not use that method. I think I will attach the straps to the inside of the boxes directly. The main issue with not using a frame will be how to connect the two boxes. In these pictures I have a wedge of Sentra between the two boxes to hold them in position. I have already attached the plunger and antenna so all that is needed now is connecting the two boxes and shoulder straps. In this back picture I am planning on attaching two blocks of Sentra (yellow box). Possible I will layer this with Sentra and white pine. The pine board will keep the screws (I plan to use) from ripping out of the Sentra. Next, I will fabricate two aluminum brackets (Red box) that will connect the top box to the bottom box and hold the angle of the top box. If I extend these brackets and filler blocks to the top inside the top box, I can attach the tops of the shoulder straps to them and then connect the bottom of the shoulder straps similarly to the bottom box. After I do all this I can removed the Sentra wedge and I believe this will keep everything together and keep the weight down. Update, 10-25-2019 I purchased a 2” wide 1/8” thick and 6’ tall flat aluminum bar and bent it to fit the two boxes. I cut slits in the boxes to allow for the bar and began mounting the bar. Also, I glued up the white pine blocks and let them sit overnight. I used a piece of ½” thick plywood for the bottom support. I will get a better picture tonight but basically, I drilled out to holes and inserted 2 T-nuts. There two bolts with washers are screwed into them and they are where the bottom of the shoulder straps will mount. Once all this stuff is fabricated, it will be painted flat black. Update 10/28/2019 Well I got the strapping figured out and test fit everything. This is a pic of the wood insert for the bottom box. You can see the T-nuts I used. When its inserted the two bolts with washers are where the bottom of the shoulder straps are mounted. The top box has a similar setup. I removed the wedge and mounted the straps and this is how the initially looked. After I put the pack on with armor, I realized that the top straps were spreading too wide and conflicted with my shoulder bells, so I crossed these straps inside the box, and this mitigated the spread. I also added a chest strap to hold the straps closer to my neck. Next, I tried on the pack again and everything seems to be sitting correctly. I was concerned that the pack would ride too low and push down on my Thermal Detonator but I the pack stayed where I wanted it. Update 10-30-19 Well I had two troops this weekend, so I did not get as much done as I wanted. I have begun the weathering. First, I mixed up some coffee brown and black and air brushed it around all the low laying areas on all the parts and along all the seams on the boxes. Since the color is dark its hard to see but it is there and a bit more noticeable in person. Next, I dry brushed silver on most of the edges and simulated some scratches. Next, I used pandatrooper’s method of sandtrooper weathering and mixed some Burnt Umber and Mars Black then applied it with a sponge on all the white and blue/grey parts. I let this sit for 5 minutes then removed a good bit of the paint with a slightly damp rag. Next, I will be doing a black wash over all the black parts to mute the silver a bit. After that is dry I will clear coat everything with a flat clear and then re-assemble the pack. Lastly, I will add some padding to back of the pack to help protect the armor and I should be done with the pack. Update, 11/2/19 I knocked out the black wash and clear coat, re-assembled the field pack and I am very pleased with how it turned out. If I were doing this build again, I most likely would use more Sentra where I used actual wood; however, I was unsure how well the Sentra would hold up having the straps mounted to it. Regardless, the wood should hold up nicely, here are the field pack pics. Thanks for the interest.
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