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Black strip on the Jim kits is about 3/4" wide if I recall correctly. I will measure it and get some pics for you this week.

great work, keep at it.

Hells yesssss, looking awesome. The spacing on the ammo boxes looks fine to me. I also attached my ammo boxes with rivets but late had to switch to screws because the rivets came loos on some of the boxes from bending over. I attached my TD with screws so I could remove it. I don't think I ever added the pics to my build thread so I will do so over the next few days. If you decide to go this route, you can always drill out the rivets and replace them with the screws but if the rivets work for you then roll with it. Great job, looking forward to your EIB.

looking good, tape on the helmet is a real pain but it comes out looking great afterwards. FWIW, since the white paint I used was automotive paint with several layers of gloss, I painted the whole helmet white then after the gloss was cured, I masked and painted the grey and black areas with an air brush. Even if I had any bleed of the grey or black, removing it from the white gloss was easy and the tape did not take any of the white paint paint since it was more durable. I just figured, painting the grey first then masking over it would take some of the grey paint when I removed the tape.

I think you also hung the bicep from the shoulder bell, so once you move the shoulder bell, it should also raise the bicep a bit. That may help with the clearance of the forearm but if the forearm is hitting the inside crease of the bend of your arm at the elbow, trimming will most likely be needed. I will also not that my forearms do hit the tops of my hand plate depending on where my arm is hanging so if you do choose to trim the forearms, I would take it from the elbow end not the hand end. Good luck.

Nils, great job so far. The shoulder straps look spot on. The ribbed shirt looks great as well. I added you to the roster. Keep up the good work.

Dan the height of the bicep looks good however, the gap between the shoulder bell and the shoulder strap looks too large. The shoulder bell should almost be touching. I agree it looks like you can cut some off the forearms. Here are some reference pics for you.

Scott, I recommend the following process for dyeing, its what I did for the crystal patrol pack and it worked for me on nylon and cotton. You will need the following: Hot plate electric burner ($20.00) Cheap large metal pot 3 gallons or more ($20.00) 2 bottles of Rit DyeMore synthetic dye Black (Graphite) ($10.00) 2 powder packs of black fabric dye (any brand) Black. ($8.00) 1 wooden paint stirrer 1 teaspoon of dish detergent 1 cup of salt or vinegar depending fabric (see below) Soke the top in cold water. While the top is soaking, Fill a stainless steel pot with enough water for the fabric to move freely. Add both bottles of DyeMore and place pot on burner. Turn burner to full and cover. Check every 10 minutes and stir with paint stirrer to ensure its well mixed. Continue to check every 10 minutes until its at a slow boil or about 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Add 1 teaspoon of dish detergent to help promote level dyeing. Remove top from soaking, wring dry then place in pot. Use a large paint stirrer stick to stir the top and cover. Check and stir every 10 minutes for 1.5 hours. Once done, Rinse in warm water and then gradually cool water until rinse water begins to run clear. Hang dry for 1 day. Next, soak top in cold water again. While the top is soaking, Fill a stainless steel pot with enough water for the fabric to move freely. Add both powder dye packs and place on burner. Turn burner to full and cover. Check every 10 minutes and stir with paint stirrer to ensure its well mixed. Continue to check every 10 minutes until its at a slow boil or about 200 degrees Fahrenheit. To enhance the color: (1) add one cup of salt when dyeing fabrics containing cotton, rayon, ramie or linen; (2) add one cup of vinegar when dyeing fabrics containing nylon, silk or wool. Remove top from soaking, wring dry then place in pot. Use a large paint stirrer stick to stir the top and cover. Check and stir every 10 minutes for 1.5 hours. Once done, Rinse in warm water and then gradually cool water until rinse water begins to run clear. Wash top in washing machine on warm delicate with mild detergent then dry as recommend on garment label. I hope this helps. The other option is to contact someone in pathfinders and see if anyone want to purchase the top for their shoretrooper or tank driver, then source another ROTK top.

They are now live and in effect as of today:

Not to have circular logic but if anyone finds this thread and is unaware of the sticky. The New 2020 CRLS are now in effect. All the information is here:

Jason, great work so far. FWIW, I did a RO glove comparison between EF and IB. I prefer the EF. here is the link. Also, most likely the reason the 3D files for the forearms were originally solid was that the OT forearms are glued closed and you do slip them on. Obviously not the case for the ROTK but that may have been the thinking.

Jason, so looking over your questions. First the shoulder strap CRL at Level 3 states “These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the back plate.” If you are building a Rogue One then this should be fairly simple since there are the two trapezoids on the top of the back plate that the shoulder straps insert into. The wording for this CRL is really to distinguish between how the Rogue One shoulder straps are vs the OT shoulder straps which lay on top of the back plate and are held in place with white elastic. Next, the helmet CRL for level 3 does add the eye socket bump “There is a small bump in the left eye socket under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers.” This is something that is not required for levels 1 and 2 but if you have not painted the helmet already, simply adding a small bump of body filler and blending it in will be all that is needed. Next, “ALL” of the extremity armor is clam shell constructed. This means that one end is left open to don and doff the armor. This includes the shins, thighs, forearms, and biceps. The level 3 CRLs for all the extremity armor state: Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. So, there is nothing in the CRLs that state you must permanently close one end of the armor, only that the armor should be constructed to allow for one end to be open. How you decide to close the open end is up to you. I tried to be as inclusive as possible, allowing for bungee cord (which how it was done for the screen used kits) but also Velcro and elastic since the same results can be achieved and no one is producing RO armor with the proper mounting brackets inside the armor for the bungee cord. When you submit pics for approval, I do not know if your GML will require images of how the armor is closed; however, I do not believe it should really matter as long as it looks correct when you are wearing it. What the approval team for EIB and Centurion will want to see is up to them and given that there really isn’t a lot of differences between the different levels, I would think that they would want to see detailed images of how the extremities are closed but I could be wrong. Lastly, the level 3 CRL for the gloves does state nylon. “Gloves shall made of a nylon material”. I will ask Andrew to make a change to this to read “the base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon”. This change in wording will be more accurate and address the real issue that the gloves are not rubber like the OT gloves were. The gloves made by Endor Finders or Imperial Boots are exactly what you need. They are basically gloves very similar in construction to mechanix gloves. I hope this helps and feel free to reach out to me if you have further questions.

Art, the 3D printed parts look amazing. I recommend you cut out the depressed parts of the helmet, then glue some styrene on the inside (at least to make a stepped down lip) then glue in the 3D printed parts. This method should have them sitting almost flush and provide that rogue one look. I also recommend you go ahead and make the changes to the abdomen with the 3D printed parts. If you don't it will always bother you and now is the time to make the change rather than a month down the road.

Dan, we have address the outline in the revision as well as the wording for the painting of the ear bars. Actually, it's one of the many things that prompted me to ask for the update to the CRLs. Thanks for the suggestion.

So, you are tackling that ROTK and you hit a snag. How to do this or how is everyone doing that. Well this is the place to ask and respond to others so that we can all share knowledge with out having to read every build thread to find that answer you need right now. Let’s keep it productive and if someone has a different method to do something, please keep in mind that there is more than one way to skin that cat. Further, it is still a good idea to read through the build threads. We need to support each other and keep everyone motivated. This thread is simply meant to be a quick reference. I will start it off with a few tips. Masking tape- Although you will need a lot of standard blue painters’ tape, when painting the smaller detailed areas on the helmet and abdomen, I recommend you mask these areas off with smaller width and higher quality masking tape. Tamiya is what I use. Tamiya is model masking tape and comes in small rolls with widths between 2mm through 18mm. You can get Tamiya masking tape from Amazon and most hobby model shops. I normally use the Tamiya to mask off the detailed areas like the teeth, tears, traps, and ear bars then use the blue masking tape to bridge between the Tamiya tape and whatever you use to cover the larger areas (plastic bags, paper, etc…) https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tamyia+masking+tape&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Needle Files- If you going to cut out your vents on your helmet, most of us will use a Dremel to do most of this but then you need to clean up these cuts to make them uniform and smooth. Needle files are the way to go. You can get a set of these small files from Amazon, Harbor Freight, and hobby stores. https://www.amazon.com/Hardened-Strength-Barrette-Crossing-Equaling/dp/B07PPYWSCY/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=needle+files+set&qid=1598290682&sr=8-10 Adhesives- For those of us new to cosplay, you will see people mention CA and E6000. So what the heck are these? CA Glue CA is short for CA glue or commonly known as Super Glue. The CA is the chemical abbreviation for Cyanoacrylate Acid. So yes, that stuff that will make you fingers stick to each other and tear off skin is what a lot of us use for building costumes. In addition to basic CA glue, it also comes in a variety of thickness formulas and you can also get an aerosol can of CA glue accelerator to make the glue instantly set. Another trick to use with CA glue is to apply a bead of the CA glue to a crack in plastic then drizzle some baking soda on the wet CA glue. The baking soda with cause the glue to instantly cure and the baking soda creates a plastic that will fill the crack. You can sand it and paint over it. We use this method to fill gaps and fix broken parts of costumes. Obviously, you can find CA glue everywhere, but the accelerator may be a bit more difficult. Try searching on Amazon or google for Name brands like 2p-10, Zip Kicker, Loctite, and Stick Fast. E6000 E6000 is a perchloroethylene adhesive. Its application is very similar to silicone adhesive and provides a few characteristics over CA glue. This is from the product data sheet and can explain it better than I can. E6000® is a unique SELF-LEVELING, non-flammable industrial adhesive formulated to meet high-performance requirements. It permanently adheres to more surfaces than virtually any other adhesive, providing exceptional adhesion to wood, metal, glass, fiberglass, ceramics, masonry, concrete, asphalt, leather, rubber, PVC, neoprene, vinyl and many plastics. E6000 maintains its flexible bond in extreme cold temperatures, will not crack or become brittle and is excellent for bonding items subject to vibration. For applications that are exposed to direct sunlight, paint over E6000 after curing or use E6800 UV formula. So, the big thing here is that it is flexible, that means you can use it on armor in places you want to flex and where Ca glue would crack or cause the armor to crack. Its also safer to use on plastics than CA glue which may weaken or melt the plastic. The trade off here is that E6000 needs time to cure and must be clamped in place while curing. When you look at someone’s build thread and you see several round silver things suspended on the armor, almost always they are rare earth magnets that are on the inside and outside of the armor holding things together while the E6000 is curing (normally 24 hours). So, with adhesives, there are a lot of options, but these are just two examples of what most of us use. One type of adhesive may not be the most ideal for aspects of your armor and you may want to consider using different adhesives for different parts of the armor. Ok that’s what I have for now. Toss out your suggestions and questions and lets find those answers.

So the CRLs revision will stay in the Detachment Only section for the time being. If anyone here does not have access to that section but you have an issue with the CRLs or have suggestions, please post them here or PM me and I will ensure they are conveyed in the discussion.

Great Start Scott, Definitely get the TK first then go for the MEPD stuff if that is what you want to do. I added you to the roster.

Ruky, I know if a pain in the butt to mask and a real kick in the pants when you get bleed. So, I suggest you use more precision masking tape around the edges of the paint zone then use the blue stuff to attach the plastic bag or whatever you use to cover the larger areas. I use the Tamiya masking tape and it comes in a variety of widths from 2mm through 18mm. This stuff is awesome. I work with the Tamiya tape around the teeth, tears, traps, and ear bars then I uses the standard blue painters tape to attach the larger masking stuff. Page 4 of my build you can see the Tamiya (yellow) masking tape. I have all the sizes but i use the 6mm and 18mm the most. Don't get discouraged, get mad and kick that helmets butt.

At some point I just gave up on getting all of the pin holes covered. Glazing putty on them then sand and apply primer and damn if there wasn't more pin holes. I don't know if the glaze got sanded out of the holes but I worked for several days to get as many covered as I could but in the end, my armor still has lots of them. On the positive side, you really have to be searching for them to see them. Keep up the good work.

Looking good so far. Not sure if you considered it but will you be able to close the back of the abdomen by yourself or are you planning on having assistance when putting on and taking off your armor?

Late to the party here but I used a french blue polyester/ spandex fabric i found at Joanns. I took a roll of blue painters tape with me and match the color with a breathable fabric. For the tears and traps I used a similar fabric in black. Page 3 of my build shows the fabric and the receipt.

Wally, I thought I had added you but I guess I closed the window before I saved it. You have now been added.

Hello Jason, the separate boxes is definitely the way to go. I have no idea what that 3rd image of the models is but the now separate boxes still do not have the top detail. Look at the pic i posted previously and notice the trapezoid on top of the #2 and #5 boxes from left to right. Now the bad news, the chest plate looks awesome but there are two trapezoid boxes missing at the top that the shoulder straps insert into. Most likely you can make models of the boxes, print them, paint them, then glue them to the top of the chest plate. I recommend you do some research to make sure you get the size and look correct. Also there are similar boxes on the back plate, and there is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the back plate. Do not let these minor setbacks discourage you, keep at it.

Looking good Ben

These handgaurds do not flex, the Sentra is rigid. So these are very similar to Jims as far as performance.