CableGuy

Welcome aboard. :-)

Hehe. Good spot - I think that’s been edited in. (Or my attention to detail has really dropped off - lol). [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Well done on all of your prep! :-) What make is the helmet (and armour)? That will have an effect on how you cut it as some are molded differently to others. This is how I built my Troopermaster helmet. This series of videos go through how I planned where to cut based upon accurate ear alignment and faceplate alignment. Faceplate alignment is key to an accurate, ANH stunt helmet. :-)

Good job, Trooper! :-)

Yes, basic should be easily achievable, I’m sure. The other points are just things to do if you fancy a challenge/project later down the line. :-)

In the words of Yoda, “there is another”.... lol Personally, I wouldn’t bother to change this, but, the SDS scope rail and top/middle t-track lengths are different to the originals. As below, the T-track is a little long and the scope rail a little short.

Cool. I’d check out a few SDS blaster builds here on FISD and see if others have documented this modification. They may have found a simple option for making this change. Personally, I’d be tempted to drill approximately as shown below. The d ring might be a little tweaking and encouragement to get in there. ;-)

Hey trooper, I believe the SDS is likely to pass with many GMLs for basic. Good start. As you’re aiming higher with your armour, here’s some bits that you could tweak if you wanted to. The SDS blaster is missing the cocking handle. You could source one of these and add it, if you wanted to. The power cylinders on the SDS appear closer to Rogue One style than ANH. Replacing these could be an option down the line. The Hengstler counter is quite far back. You could try moving this forward a bit. The wires were not commonly seen in ANH so these are up to you if you keep them. :-) For fitting the D-ring, do you have some detailed pics of the end cap? I’d imagine your have to drill a hole through the end cap, then separate the d-ring where it meets in the middle and carefully insert it.

Yes, the measurement in that photo is 50mm. :-)

Looking great from the front!! Brilliantly Stormtroopery. [emoji1]

Great job overall, Tyrone. Just a little thing I’d fix for general appearance; As above, your biceps are currently not aligned with your biceps. They should be twisted inwards to align the coverstrips. To achieve this, I’d suggest adjusting or tweaking your bicep to forearm elastics. Here’s how the originals were attached; Note how the coverstrips align straight down the arm. Best of luck with your application, Tyrone. Overall, looking sharp, Trooper. [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1]

Do you have a full length photo from the back, please? From the close up of your back plate, it looks like it could be be too high up around the neck. That would explain the back plate/kidney gap.

Easily done, trooper. We can all be found guilty of looking at other builds (copies) sometimes rather than actual reference images. Anyway, you got this! :-)

I’d suggest either Matt or Satin black for the hovi tips. Personally, for my latest helmet I went Matt black, as recommended by Troopermaster, and they came out great. As you said, only painted on the outside. For the vocoder, I’d suggest either sarin black or gloss black. I believe Satin black is now the recommendation in the ANH stunt helmet painting guide. :-)

They don’t look too bad. Some of these are a little longer, too. Have you fitted the chest and back to your frame? It might be that the chest and back plate are too close as you have them there. How does it look when worn?

For the most accurate appearance, the insides should also be white. To get the most realistic look, I’d suggest painting the insides white, too, not just the rims. If you want to be EVEN more accurate, paint them completely white. Then, paint only the outsides and rim black (leave insides white). Then, gently weather the black away on the rim to reveal small amounts of white. (Light sanding). :-)

Hiya Those eyes look neat and I’m sure would be fine for clearance. The look you have is a quite idealised, which is fine if that’s the look you want. If you wanted to, you could follow the originals and make the lines and corners a little sharper. As below, the originals were cut with a sharp blade of some sort, leading to nice sharp corners and visibly straight cuts in places. The yellow lines are purely approximate, however, this is the sort of look I personally go for; Here’s a couple more screen used examples for reference;

Fair point. Off topic comments now hidden from view. :-)

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji2956]

Excellent info. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great advise, Jose. [emoji1303] Just to be safe, images from the reference image gallery are probably the best examples to post. [emoji3526] An buttons: Common Ear alignment;

Thank you, brother. :-)

Hi all, As we’re all sharing helmet pics (WIPs, clearance etc.), I thought I’d share a little photography tip for anyone that wants to give it a go. As many of us use smart phones to quickly snap out progress, holding the camera too close to the subject will cause some distortion, leading the the helmet looking “droopy”. Try taking a couple of steps back and zooming in - this will look much closer to how the human eye sees it. [emoji1303][emoji2956] Here’s an example when taking pictures from all angles;

Bump

Bump. :-)