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JBar

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by JBar

  1. I'm not near Kansas but welcome. Assuming you're building a stunt ANH stormtrooper you can create a build thread here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ Also this All in One Guide is my favorite resource: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49412-all-in-one-tk-anh-stunt-index-of-resources-by-maskedvengeance/
  2. Nice work. As far as the calves I spent a ton of time too shaping them only to realize that industrial strength velcro hold them together properly once they're on your legs and attached together. So I'd take a break and see how they work once put on before worrying too much more. You can always tweak them more later. As far as the posterior armor flaring I hope you see this in time because that's actually normal and you don't need to do any shaping. So let me save you some time and check out this post I recently made: Basically all you have to do is put metal (like me) or plastic V tabs in your armor and it will easily stop the flaring. This took me about 15 min to do vs potentially hours of shaping Lastly your back armor should hopefully be able to drop down quite a bit once you have it connected to your chest. By the time you give yourself some extra shoulder strap slack and let the elastic rest on your shoulders I think your back armor will drop way down
  3. Congrats! Nice job getting the armor to fit. Hope to see some troop pics. Feel free to make a log of them here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/13-field-training-exercises/
  4. Huge congrats! That's such a great kit you made and it looks amazing
  5. For my WTF kit, the center of the Ab Plate and the Ab Armor "stripe" is centered. This made the belt placement easy for centering. However I've noticed that other armor kits such as RS have the Ab Plate and Strip off centered. In those cases where is the best placement of the center of the belt? Here's mine (left) vs RS (right) Here are some movie and reference pics I feel like there are different placement examples depending on which reference shot you're looking at. Sometimes the belt is aligned in the center of the Ab Plate. Other times it's centered under the ribs of the plate. And furthermore sometimes it's aligned down the middle of the armor. Anyway just wondering if there is a consensus on the best practice of where to place the belt depending on the armor maker Should you try to align the center of the belt so that it goes down the center of the Ab Plate or under the ribbed area so that it's closer aligned down the middle of the Ab Plate raised edge? I never had to guess because my WTF kit appears to be a more straight shot
  6. Looks like you're well on your way. I recently built my first Walt kit. I think we're similar sizes. I'm more than happy to share any fitting suggestions where needed
  7. That's so exciting!!! We all know the feeling well. You should be very proud of what you built. I'm not too far in the NYC Empire City Garrison. Maybe there will be some troops together. If you happen to be at New York Comic Con in a week or two we'd love to meet you!
  8. I agree. The details aren't very crisp. It overall just looks...off to me. I feel like the eyes are too far apart
  9. People may disagree here but outside the forearm wrist areas I personally tried to keep around 1/8" or so of a return edge around most of the armor. I find it gives a nice "fullness" effect. While it's not wrong to remove more return edge each movie TK was different and there are definitely examples of TKs with more return edges. Here's how much I had as you can see on the forearm on the left side
  10. Finally back in town. Congrats on your build!
  11. Wow what's the story behind these? How were they obtained?
  12. That looks so much better! Getting those thighs fitted was a bulk of the work. If you want you could make an speaker holder like I did under the ab armor. I just headed some extra ABS plastic and glued it to shape and into place. That plus some foam will fill in some space as well as it will press against your stomach a bit.
  13. The modifications required to get the SDS kit approved might actually be a good thing. It'll be a hybrid of a built kit and one you had to do yourself. You'll learn a lot in the process. The links @gmrhodes13 provided are great. Comb through those and see what people needed to change. This one in particular goes into some great detail: Good luck and let us know if you have questions. You can always make your own build thread here so we can help you https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/
  14. RS propmasters is a great option if you go with them. I personally enjoy the process of building my own, as I learned so much about the costume that way. But everyone has different levels of time and experience. In the end go fro what you think is best and let us know if you have questions. Welcome
  15. What I've done to help is to put the snap underneath my elastic shoulder straps and close to the neck. Putting them closer to the neck will allow a tighter pull of your shoulder bells to your chest while also preventing the shoulder straps from getting tugged away from under the bridges. Also I've noticed there are a few types of webbing. Some is really stretchy and some barely stretches at all. I personally like the latter as it makes everything tight and stay in place better. It also doesn't lose its strength over time as easily
  16. I haven't seen this before. I might even take you up on that
  17. I'll be there! I met a bunch of friends from Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Japan too. I'll also be with some ECG friends from NY
  18. JBar

    FISD Memes

  19. I would reach out or just submit as is for you sides and thigh ammo box. That's a lot of work for something your GML may not even require to change. For shoulder strapping. I find the tightest elastic strapping possible and you may want to fold in half part or all of the white elastic for a more firm hold. I may have posted this in your previous posts but here is mine: You can see where I've overlapped the white elastic. I used one snap on the front and back but you may want two on the front and back. I also have the underside snap close to my neck so it doesn't pull down the edges as easily. Also just pushing up your bicep can give more slack to your shoulders which will help with the tugging. Again for the shims and thigh ammo box I'd wait for your GML before doing anything drastic. I'm not a GML but I feel like there's no reason to sweat and you can make further changes when applying for level 2 or 3.
  20. Congrats @camroc13 on your Hall of Fame! Great picture
  21. I used black Sugru putty to install motherboard pins into the helmet. Then I drilled holes in my lenses and added in the screws. Just a warning it wasn't easy but I'm really happy with the results \
  22. Check to see what the can says but usually they recommend not re coating anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks. If you re coat too soon it can cause unwanted results
  23. Alright congrats! That's gotta feel great. It's definitely a big project and you stuck with it
  24. Best of luck getting approved this week. With the belt and costume tweaks you're looking really close. I know it's a lot to consider every time you suit up. I'm always catching small details I can improve on for each submission post. Keep in mind for approval it all depends on your GML. Hopefully you can send your info over when you're ready and get a quick response. I know how that feels trying to get something approved for a deadline. Do you have any closeups of your sniper plate? gmrhodes13 made a good catch that the plate is angled up and I'm wondering how it's attached. It's definitely a finicky part of the armor
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