Sentry71

Congrats, Adam! Look at the Ongoing Sales threads for rivets. Joseph is selling them, not sure if anyone else is.

Awesome update! Here's a few things I would recommend pertaining to the above: 1) You can use foam strips to help even up the sides. However, consider a slightly different option if you have the extra strips for it - a tab/slot configuration. Here's how lucnak did his (mine is similar): http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35730-lucnaks-anh-stunt-build-ata/page-4#entry484556 2) You are on track with changing the elastic. You might consider widening where the snaps go, so that they are farther out toward the edge. This should help pull them back in. The second pic here might help show how close to the edge I went: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35177-sentrys-anh-stunt-build-ap/page-4#entry478144 3) I took care of the leg issue by cutting out those sections for mobility. This isn't necessary for everyone, but I had to do it, and I was able to make it to EIB without issue (I think it is ok at Centurion as well). However, I have heard of GML's not passing folks for basic with the cutouts, so you may want to try a hot water bath to help coax the plastic together. Others may have better suggestions. 4) Yes, the smaller button plate will need trimmed down. You want to JUST see the edges of the raised ab where that plate gets mounted. It will feel like you are taking a lot of plastic off close to the raised buttons, but it will be correct. Just a little at a time - you can always remove more, but putting it back on is MUCH harder. Hope that helps!!

I have a few extra cap rivets, I'll PM you later about it. ☺

It may be up to the GML for your garrison whether they will accept the 20mm strips for basic approval until you can obtain 25mm. I have one extra strip of ABS, if needed. Mark will probably hook you up. If not, let me know.

Roger that!!

Cannot have too many magnets.

Since my blaster came as a kit, I was able to paint parts before they went together. If you can ppp the end cap off, that will make the spring easier to work with. The bolt has so little that shows, you might be able to slide it back and just paint exposed areas.<br><br> As for weathering... I didn't want rust (kept the TK Death-Star-white, so my E-11 needed to look "new") but I did drybrush a bit of silver over the top of the black. Gave it a metallic sheen with very little effort.

Congrats! <br> On to EIB?

5 tubes of e6000? Were you drinking the stuff? I only used one (large) tube - and not the caulking gun size one.

Congrats, Luc, er, TK-28401!!

How you have it taped now, is how mine came out. I passed EIB with it in this configuration. You might consider trimming the ends so that they are 90 degrees from the bottom of the knee plate. Just an option, not a requirement. I think this is the link you are considering: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35918-hasos-anh-stunt-tk-build-ap-armour/page-2#entry476568

Almost has a "raised eyebrow" look.

Normally yellowing on armor is caused by UV rays. The mattress pads themselves tend to yellow with age, but I don't think you need to worry about it affecting the armor.

Your blaster is looking real good... the only thing I would add/change is adding in a very small strip of ABS for the clearing strip in the shell ejector port. A little self-promotion: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33729-sentrys-anh-e11-build/page-2#entry443453 That link will show you what I did for the strip.

I just put it out there with the rest of my normal FB posts (which really aren't that many). The Darth Vader for 70th Garrison/Gateway Squad does a separate page for his photos and such. He doesn't post exclusively to it, but it does make it easier to segregate some items. I think it comes down to personal preference.

Looks awesome, Luc!!! Great work, and good luck with your submission! Can't wait to see that TK number for you.

You CAN fill the void with ABS paste, but in all actuality, I bet it won't be that noticeable when you get everything together. I would go ahead and work on other parts of the armor, and if you still want to fill it later, you can always do so.

I asked a similar question, due to the back not sitting square on the kidney. I was told that it is movie accurate, and to expect a little gap. EDIT: I was referring to the bottom - couldn't see the photo properly on my phone. Sorry about that. I think the line you have is good, but make sure the amount left stays consistent all the way to the bottom corner. I think your line is starting to drift shallow at that point.

I would suggest a sanity check, by holding the belt up to the ab, and look down from above to see if the snaps really do line up with the locations you intend to put the male snaps. Its not an exact science, but it will make you feel better about the locations before poking holes. My other suggestion would be to put in one male snap, attach the belt, and do the same visual check for the other side before the second hole goes in. You may find that the distance on the ab is SLIGHTLY shorter than on the belt.

Awesome pics! I'm definitely going to give that a try. Thanks for posting it!

Looking awesome!!!!

You're on the right track, with making the front look correct first. Personally, I would cut the back to match (7mm edges on the raised section) and let the bicep pieces be loose on your upper arm. You can always add foam blocks on the inside, to center your arm in it. I would get a few other opinions first, though. You might talk with Jinsei (Spencer) about his build - I think he's on the thinner side as well. From his build thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34678-jins-ap-stunt-build/page-4#entry473347

Use the rubber gloves for Centurion pictures, and pick up some nomex gloves for trooping. Its a pain to have a set of gloves (rubber) that will not get used much, but the nomex is breathable and cool. I still haven't figured out how I am going to attach the latex hand guards to the nomex yet, though.

Ah! That makes sense. I was thinking the harder way, trying to put the slots on the ab instead of the kidney. Obviously my idea is NOT the way to do it.

I would love to see pics of the rivet side, if you wouldn't mind. I may add that to my own.