Sentry71

Not sure if this can still be addressed, but the Posterior doesn't mention the L2 weathering.

For the CRL, it says the lenses are dark smoke, but in the first of the reference pics from Eric in the thread above, the lenses look green. Since it seems to be a secondary reference, I don't know if that applies. The posterior description still shows "weathering" as L1. The shoulder bell reference seems to be off (template issue?), may also have the "weathering" description as L1. I believe there was a red pauldron as well, but I am trying to find a reference shot for it. Overall, it looks good!!

PostImage - somewhat simplistic, but works well.

Completely understand your thoughts on E6000. I think we all have that love/hate relationship with it. As for cutaway, here's an example from mine, if you are interested. (Please ignore the twist... it happens.)

Hi Devyn, and welcome to FISD. You have already started your research, so you are ahead of the game. I also purchased Mark's AP armor, and I love it. To answer your questions: - With the proper tools and a little patience, the armor is not hard to work with. AP is nice and sturdy, so a little effort is needed, but you will find it is easier as you get used to it. - My armor set came with the helmet and body parts. Soft parts and boots had to be purchased separately. You can get a lot of recommendations on suppliers to check out on the forums here. - How long depends on your knowledge of the tools you use, and the spare time that you have. As a complete newbie, it took me about two months to put mine together. I had spent quite a few months prior to that just reading through different armor threads, trying to be sure I understood how it all worked. Although you purchased AP, almost any thread will give you the general knowledge that you need. Each armor has its own quirks, and you will pick that up in the threads as well. - Again, approval depends on how much attention you put into your build. I was able to get approved for the 501st as soon as my armor was done, with no "mods" needed. - Pricing is up to the supplier - only Mark can answer that. My recommendations are to research, research, research here. Learn all you can before that big brown box shows up on your doorstep. Ask questions, use the search function, and learn all you can. When it does show up, start a thread in the Armor Build area, and ask more questions. Post pictures as you go. You will find there are several troopers here that will be more than happy to help and make recommendations. Depending on what part of Canada you are in, see if you can find the local garrison and attend an armor party. You can get hands on help in that case, and its always fun to meet the people you will be trooping with in the future. Best of luck!

Awesome work! I love how it looks. The only thing that stands out to me is the faceplate at the brow... it seems a bit hidden behind the brow. Everything else looks spot on for EIB.

I don't have a lot of detailed pics, but I did move my build over to PostImage. Links in the signature below. Hopefully you can get some use out of them.

Great work! The Plastidip looks like it worked out wonderfully.

You are off to a great start!! I would say to enjoy the process, but I believe you already are.

Edges are looking good! For the kidney plate, it really is all about sizing to the body. Mark added that extra on so that most people will not need to add shims at all. In my case (5'7" 180lb), I trimmed the kidney all the way back to the notch (leaving the required 22mm), and only took 3/4" off of the ab. Click on the pic for a larger version. (Photo prior to actually cutting the notch out) Hope that helps!

Looks like you have things well in hand! Great photos and explanations so far. Keep it up!

Personally, I do use a small strip of Velcro on the front of my boot, so that it keeps the shin from twisting. Since it is always covered, no one knows it is there.

I have the AP armor. My process was to attach the knee plate to the cover strip in front with E6000, while clamping the sides into place (but not gluing immediately on those ends). B e generous with the E6000 - you can always remove the excess later. Once the center is dried (I gave mine 24 hours to be sure), double check your alignment. If all looks good, go ahead and glue the sides and reclamp. Again, go with plenty of E6000. This is what mine looked like afterward. You will notice the knee does not line up exactly in the middle. It's a specific quirk of AP.

There are a few fully completed suits out there. I know eqdizzle is working on his, and should be pretty close to complete. Your point on photos is what I was missing. Thanks for the reminder.

This topic has been quiet for some time... has the CRL been finalized or submitted yet? I don't see any mention of it on the CRL page.

Updated photo links to replace Photobucket with PostImage hosting.

I have updated (most) photo links to redirect from Photobucket to PostImage, due to changes in Photobucket's linking policy. Hopefully they all show up now!

Gary Hill 11146 Centurion letter Tony http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/11146-centurion.png

Thanks! I am swapping out the elastic on the right for a sturdier strap, and that should keep it all closed.

Name: Gary Hill 501st ID: 11146 FISD: sentry71 Midwest Garrison Mandatory Information Armor = Authentic Props (AP) Helmet = AP Blaster = Hyperfirm E11 EIB: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36499-tk-11146-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-ap-554/ Optional Height = 5' 7" Weight = 175 lbs Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = TKittell Hand Plates = Sonnenschein Neck Seal = Geeky Pink Holster = Darman Edited to remove photo links... will reupload and relink ASAP. Front Back Left Right Hand plates Shoulder Thigh pack Sniper knee Drop box back / holster Cod/posterior Helmet front Helmet back Helmet left Helmet right Hovi tip Lens color S Trim Ammo belt (45 degree corner) Neck seal Blaster left Blaster right Bottom Thermal Det Action shot

Glad to be of help, even if just as a photog.

Gary Hill 11146 EIB Letter Andrew http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/11146-eib.png

Like I have said before, your attention to detail will serve you well. Pics look awesome!

I think Pyrates had the rubber gasket for the sides. Personally, I added a tab and slot configuration on the sides of mine, and left the rivets non-functional after my nylon straps stretched too much. This shows the non-riveted side, but you can get the idea.

I agree on the frown. You can add just a touch more paint on the upper areas to fill it in, and that will help.