Sentry71

The screw will be visible, no matter what, so there isn't an issue there. The indent will matter less, since in order to get the S trim to line up properly, you will most likely have to take a bit off of the back portion and the bottom of the ear piece, and then it may cover the indent... not sure how to address that in the best way, however.

Sales and photo thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37770-tk-helmet-interior-kit Aaron has put together a neat kit for adding some interesting details to the inside of a stormtrooper helmet. I had been following his original thread for a while, and when the opportunity came up, I ordered a deluxe kit from him. One week went by, and I had the kit in hand. The parts are well made, and there is a lot of opportunity for custom work. ------ I had let the kit sit for quite a while, as I had not had time to try and work on it. I pulled the kit back out this weekend, thinking of how to address it with the other electronics I will have in the helmet (eqdizzle fans, ukswrath SHA and Hovi Mic kits). Only the fans are installed currently. I started by trimming the flashing on the main faceplate from the kit along the back, basically getting it to where it could sit into the front of my helmet. I also trimmed the other parts, trying to clean off any excess material from each molded piece. There will still be trimming to do, but at least all parts are clean edged. I went ahead and taped the faceplate into the front of the helmet, and tried it on. When I got the helmet into place on my head, both my nose and my chin were resting against the formed plastic of the insert. I don't know if others have had this same experience, but I hope to get a little feedback. I will also continue trying some other options for how to address this. For reference, I have an AP ANH stunt helmet.

Definitely interested in how this comes out. Love the work you did on the helmet, Eric.

The cotton glove liners are a great help when using the rubber chemical gloves. Personally, I bought a set of nomex flight gloves from Amazon, and much prefer them. The plastic hand plates and a little elastic is all you need to complete the look.

It looks AWESOME!! Great work! Can't wait to see you with your ID number.

It looks like they fit really well.

For the mic tips, either one should work for Centurion. The mesh is different, but not too far off on either one. Go with your preference. For the gloves, I used a set similar to #1, and used super glue to attach the hand guards.

Yes, a cover strip needs to be on the back of the shins. It will be a little wider than the cover strip on the front.

Another option for rounding the forearms is a hot water bath - much less likely to have something catastrophic happen, versus what a heat gun can do in a VERY short time frame. Bring water to just under boiling, then remove from heat and let it settle for a minute before dipping the forearm in. Once it warms, you should be able to use hand pressure to flex the arm into a rounder shape, and while holding it, run it under cold water to set the shape. You may have to do this a few times, but it is safer and pretty easy.

Great work with the paint - a lot of folks worry about doing free hand. It just makes the helmet more accurate that way. I love that the Testors is still good to go, even after all this time.

Frown looks good as it is now.

Great work Preston! I see a TK number in your immediate future.

While trimming, leave enough space so that the thighs give you around 1/2" space on all sides. This should help give some bulk to them while keeping them from getting too thin - and then you can always use some foam pieces inside to hold them evenly on your legs. Plus, the return edge will make it look thicker.

The foam should keep the sniper plate from getting under the thigh - that's the only place I needed it. The ammo pack over the thigh was plenty forward. For the thigh gap on the rear... I think you may have the butt plate/torso slightly rotated, since it looked even in front. You can play with that for your next photos, and see if it makes a difference. Looking forward to the updated pics!

I went the same way with my boots, putting velcro only on the front of the boot and inside shin. How does it work with both front and back with velcro? Any odd movement on your leg?

WOW! That is awesome work right there!!!

You're right on track. My only suggestion would be on the forearms, to follow the line of the outer covers strips on the last photo you posted, and trim off the bit sticking out from the right on each. It is a minor detail that may help once everything is assembled.

I removed an entire inch from the tops of my thighs, as they were just too long for my body. After doing do, I can sit (mostly) and move without armor bite issues in those areas.

I have the smaller bin as well, and I am intending to do the same paint scheme on the outside. Well done!

This is exactly the approach to take. The wait will seem to be super long, but having the time to gather items and research, research, research will pay off. Congrats on your order, and enjoy the build!

I used industrial Velcro, and its own adhesive was plenty strong when used against the plastic. You should not need any additional adhesive. If you are using Velcro without its own adhesive, E6000 would work well in that situation.

I like the concept. Looks like a hybrid of TK without the thigh armor. I could go for it.

Troopers helping troopers!

You could try a piece of Velcro in the front of the shin, with a loop of elastic that goes through the loop at the top of the boot. That should let it move, but pull it back in place as needed. I went with Velcro directly on the boot and shin (I'll post a pic in a bit) - but this also means it is tight around the boot, and wears away some of the white dye on the leather.

Lovin' it, Angie!!